:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: highroller54 on June 29, 2012, 10:00:36 AM
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OK, I'm really dumb when it comes to PC computers and tuning, I understand how a cars computer works and how to fix the fuck out of it but I know nothing about tuning.
I want to tune/fuck with my civic, its chipped on crome right now with a street tune and I have a lap top, The car has a aem wideband with data log wires.
What do I need to buy, what do I need to down load? Can you data log with normal crome? Whats the difference with crome gold?
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You can datalog with crome Pro, crome free no datalog.
For datalog while using Crome free use freelog. :noel:
Crome Pro I got for $50 from a guy on D-series and it can be used on up to three laptops/desktops.
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First time I tuned, I eyeballed the wideband & tach, adjusted in Uberdata, then reburned the chip. If you can get the tune close to start with, you don't need datalogging unless you want to get it perfect. The biggest problem will be figuring out what you need to do to crome just to get to the point you can tune it. I can't even remember, there's so much bullshit with removing checksums, adding boost tools, tilting your head at a 47* angle, etc. That and I couldn't get a new license for a few years til he put an automated app on his website.
In other word, don't BUY crome pro, use crome free to get an idea then get ectune/neptune/s300 later. Just make sure you know what the AFR's should be, and know what detonation sounds like.
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Vice grips on return line, Rock the dizzy back, and hold foot to the floor!!
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Vice grips on return line, Rock the dizzy back, and hold foot to the floor!!
This
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lol, love this place!
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Get an ostrich and a chip burner. And a spare motor.
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Get an ostrich and a chip burner. And a spare motor.
Add some det cans, and rock out.
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Get a spare motor.
lots in stock!
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whats a good chip burner? is there only one ostrich?
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Moates Burn2 if you want it easy, willem chip burner if you want it cheap. There's only one moates ostrich.
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Moates Burn2 if you want it easy, willem chip burner if you want it cheap. There's only one moates ostrich.
For the added convenience I would go with the Moates chip burner. You could also go with a demon from Moates instead of a ostrich and a Honda log.
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You could also go with a demon from Moates instead of a ostrich and a Honda log.
please explain more :)
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A demon is a ostrich and a data logging cable all in one. And it mounts in your Ecu permanently. Then you only have 1 cable to connect to your laptop instead of 2. And its pretty close to the same amount as a ostrich and a Honda log combined. It does the job of both all built into 1 thing.
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Ah, that would be cool but not for tuning more then one ecu/car then I suppose.
Can I pull the current tune out of my car now to play with it or do I have to start from scratch?
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Ah, that would be cool but not for tuning more then one ecu/car then I suppose.
Can I pull the current tune out of my car now to play with it or do I have to start from scratch?
If you get a chip burner then yes. You can pull the tune off it and fuck with it. Yes it will have to stay in that Ecu. But if you get a burner you can burn your final tune on a chip if need be.
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gotcha, I'll order that shit up and play with it, then more questions! lol
Thanks! O0
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gotcha, I'll order that shit up and play with it, then more questions! lol
Thanks! O0
Nig I have a burnner just collecting dust, I will loan you. Let me know.
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The thing to know is the "gold" rom that works with the emulators can't be put on a chip later. However, the normal type that you can change MAP sensors, injector size, etc can be tuned on the emulator then burned to a chip.
I could even take your BIN file via email, burn to a chip, then mail it to you. Hell, if you sent 2 tunes I could make a 2-timer that would let you switch between them. This would be handy if you made a start/idle only bin for storage, wideband and narrowband tune, cutout tune, etc.
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Buy Ostrich 2 from http://www.moates.net/. (http://www.moates.net/.)
Buy some kind of AFR meter.
Buy boost gauge.
Use Crome free.
Basically you need to know the 2 axis of tuning (pressure and rpm) and with the AFR you set the 3rd axis that is fuel...
Create a basemap or use one from http://www.xenocron.com/bins/index.php?PHPSESSID=f6adbe8f08bffd9e95bf049858102ecf&direction=0&order=&directory=Crome (http://www.xenocron.com/bins/index.php?PHPSESSID=f6adbe8f08bffd9e95bf049858102ecf&direction=0&order=&directory=Crome)
that is close to your engine setup.
You can also follow this guide: http://www.xenocron.com/install/CromeGuide.htm (http://www.xenocron.com/install/CromeGuide.htm) for some useful tips.
Just download the last version of Crome, not Crome 1.5 like the tutorial.
Usually if I see that there's not enough fuel at first start up I assume it's the same for the entire map and I select all the cells and add fuel to the whole map by % increase. When it's near a stable state without being perfect then I do it more precise tune near the idle.
Then you start to drive around and keep an eye on AFR to make sure you're not out of target and adjust it when it's the case.
I use the higher gears and brakes (accelerate while pushing on brakes) to tune load because when you're not on a dyno rpm is increasing to fast to see the pressure and AFR unless you use datalog (even then...). You don't do it too often obviously...
Always select a zone, not a single cell because there's an average made on surrounding cells.
Just follow the Xenocron guide anyway...
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In crome adjust your injector size then go to advanced setting. Injector voltage offset. Use a bnumber between 1 and 50, getting your idle close. Don't adjust the fuel map til after adjusting injector offset.
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You sir are going to fuck up anything that is possible to fuck up O0
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Just follow the Xenocron guide anyway...
BAN