:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: DasPoop on July 24, 2012, 10:31:57 PM
-
Simply put I need to shorten an axle eh an inch maybe a tad more i want to do it on the inside joint by turning down the material aft of the splines to the ID of the splines allowing the joint to slide on further. I remember a post a bit back about someone saying how to shorten axles home brew but I cant seem to find it. Any thoughts? Here is my 5 min paint rendition.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi824.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz167%2FSlotRacer%2Faxle.jpg&hash=6f79e6d6e5a37074ed6fce398532504330c1240f)
-
Cut in the middle then use a get a good quality steal tube and weld. :noel:
-
What car? I did similar with a 93 teg axle for an h swapped hatch.
Didn't need to turn down the axle at all though, you'll be risking stripping the splines if you are making power if you lessen the spline engagement. Enough to worry? No clue
There were c clips holding the part centered on the spline (whatever you call the thing with three posts that the bearings ride on)
We removed the clips and that part was able to slide on another 3/4+ inches.
Then we cut the tip off as needed and reassembled.
This post kind of sucks without pics but I don't have mspaint on my phone
-
Even if you do lessen engagement, how often do you see the internals fucked up? All I've ever seen are people snapping the part in the hub.
Pull the boot off and you'll see how much extra you have to play with. What kinda car/engine/axle is it?
-
89teg, a6 swap with si trans and soon to be modified eg axles
-
I would cut in the middle, bevel the ends and weld it up, then sleeve it.
-
I would cut in the middle, bevel the ends and weld it up, then sleeve it.
-
I just want to do the inner so it doesn't get funky with
balancing.
-
I'm 99% sure you would never notice it. Axle rpm is a lot less than driveshaft rpm and axle diameter is a lot less than a driveshaft.
-
When we shortened the axles on the baja car, we cut them down an inch longer than needed, then milled across the shaft for an inch to make the end of the shaft a semicircle. Then sleeved it and welded it up. The two "D" shapes would interlock, and take the bulk of the torque load (~350wtq in 1st/towing gear, we also have inboard brakes that brake though the driveaxles).