:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: Conceptz-X on April 23, 2009, 09:32:27 PM
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I have a Haltech E8 fucking dealer shafted me on the warranty. Need a schematic of the EMS.
I have IAT and #3 Coil circuit issues.
I've heard all the shit about Haltech and I know, but it fucking runs and I don't have the funds right now to get something else so I must fix this shit. Anyways, anybody have any ideas for where I can get a schematic?
Edited: Coil circuit failed, not Injector was running COP, now on WS
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Haltech says Sorry we can't help you, but you can send it in for $100+ for repair and we can fuck you some more.
Didn't even ask what the problem was with which dealer or anything.
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Anyways, anybody have any ideas for where I can get a schematic?
Do you have the ECU in front of you?
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I can get it
Do you need pics of the board, or a revision #?
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No, you need to have the ECU in front of you.
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ok
Got it and pulled the board out
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Nothing looks burnt
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Brought up the Wiring Diagram, but both failed circuits are not in the top layer of PCB
http://haltech.com/downloads/e8/e8_wiring_diagram.pdf (http://haltech.com/downloads/e8/e8_wiring_diagram.pdf)
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Nothing looks burnt
Just trace the circuits onto paper. You have your schematic.
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Nothing looks burnt
Just trace the circuits onto paper. You have your schematic.
i lol'd
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I wasn't trying to be funny.
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Its an internal EMS issue, I've already checked the wiring.
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Yes, we know this already. You stated it in your first post. Do you have your schematic yet or are you being lazy?
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I could not find a schematic. The board has multiple levels so I cannot simply trace circuits (and of course the ones in question are on an inner level). My hope was that someone here might know where I could locate one. I know which connector pins are in question and the solder appears to be just fine on them (no signs of melting, porosity, etc.) I've looked at the PCB but Have no clue where to begin to check it without a schematic. There's a fuckload of resistors, drivers(transistors), and chips on the board.
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Excuses
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I'm trying...
I do appreciate your help JD
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Here's what I'm looking at JD:
Front: http://filesll.fluxstatic.com/00B84A6C0189EC2D000722F6FFFF/633762495219137174 (http://filesll.fluxstatic.com/00B84A6C0189EC2D000722F6FFFF/633762495219137174)
Back: http://filesll.fluxstatic.com/00B84A6D0189EC2D000722F6FFFF/633762495221321202 (http://filesll.fluxstatic.com/00B84A6D0189EC2D000722F6FFFF/633762495221321202)
Sorry they are so large, I wanted to include every detail
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Look, I know multi-layer stuff sucks, but it can be reversable. The center layers are... usually... power and/or ground. Through hole components can be the devil unless removed (save labeled/common ICs) but otherwise meh. You isolate power and ground on one IC and you can determine power (top) and ground (bottom) on a plethora of sub-circuits. See also: voltage regulators.
I've partially reversed two AEMs to determine specific circuit/component locations. They are multi-layered boards but it can be done if you apply common sense about the wires you can't see.
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So basicly probe the pin in question, then hunt through the transistors, IC's, and resistors till I find continuity.
Pretty much what I figured I would have to do, Just wishing it was easier.
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It's tedious, not difficult. A 5/6+ layer board can suck, but if it's a 4 layer with power and ground in the center and actual circuitry on the outside (put there so they can troubleshoot prototypes simply - see Tim's rant thread for why) then you can do this.
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I'll have to bring my multimeter home from work
if it's a 4 layer with power and ground in the center and actual circuitry on the outside (put there so they can troubleshoot prototypes simply - see Tim's rant thread for why) then you can do this.
They didn't go simple here :( and it looks like there is 4+ layers. Guess I'll fuck with it next weekend if I have some free time. Waiting to see what the trade-up program will entail as they have now released the platinum series and I spoke to another dealer who said there will be an upgrade program shortly. If its around $200 I'll jump on it. The retail ECM price for the E8 and Platinum 1000 is the same.
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Is this a lifted trace in red, or just bad lighting? It also looks like the joint below it is cold. It looks like the leg off of the power cap too, which means it's a main source line. Could just be the lighting though.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv356%2Fmanitowic999%2Fbadtrace.png&hash=78791d7c91ed154e8d7e7b2962f2e2fe954f2c07)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv356%2Fmanitowic999%2F633762495221321202.jpg&hash=b9b9208c2509c4272532c7c9fa5f8ae7a9e7c112)
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I looked at that, there was a little corrosion there at the bottom of the capacitor leg. Cleaned it up. Trace is good there
I've worked around the problem for now, I'm just pissed on how I spent about $1200 for the system and get shit on when there is an issue near the end of the warranty period (which is somewhat my fault, I misplaced my recipt when I moved. But they offered to look it up and then never got back with me 3 different times.).
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Ahh. Sorry. Hope it works out for you.
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Thanks,
My luck = burned trace on an internal layer of PCB.
All else fails, I'll likely trade it in on an upgrade