:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: turbohf on November 28, 2012, 11:33:00 PM
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do i need to drop the fuckin tank? or can i just rewire it to the plug on the inside of the car be fine?
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I have never heard of anyone dropping the tank, but that leaves 3-ish feet of Eire that's still small
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you implying that you dont need to drop the tank to do this? or that you just havent heard of how people do it?
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Just wire it to the inside plug. Your just trying to carry the voltage as far as you can. If you wanted to get real serious you could drop the tank and wire it all the way to the pump.
How much power are you looking to get out of this?
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What he said is what I was getting at
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How much power are you looking to get out of this?
realistically on the 14b, 240-260whp. if i swap to a 16g in the future 280-320whp...
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Shit, if that's all I wouldn't bother at all. I broke the vitara record at 487whp on stock eg wiring and daily'd it at 310whp for years.
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I would drop it a bit, enough to rip out any factory wiring. Shit is OLD and small chances are it has degraded. Crx also have smaller fuel lines then 92+ civic's.
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I would drop it a bit, enough to rip out any factory wiring. Shit is OLD and small chances are it has degraded. Crx also have smaller fuel lines then 92+ civic's.
+1 :noel:
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My EF hatch has no issues making 400whp on stock wiring and lines
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I dont know about the feed line on a crx, but I know that the return hard line on my 90 crx si was larger than the return line on my 94 gsr integra.
You will be more than fine with just wiring it to the plug inside the car for the power your going for.
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A stock DOHC VTEC pump with stock wiring should hit 300whp. Any walbro option will still pump enough for 320whp on crappy wires.
I agree to just wire it as far as you can, don't make too much work out of it.
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walbro 255hp is in the car now im pretty sure. it has always been loud as shit, and you can head the pump change volume with all the loads on... :-\
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If the pump speed messes with fuel pressure, you should be changing the regulator before the wires.
If you want I can test my CDM 255 at 10 volts and give you an idea of fuel flow during your worst-case scenario.
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If the pump speed messes with fuel pressure, you should be changing the regulator before the wires.
If you want I can test my CDM 255 at 10 volts and give you an idea of fuel flow during your worst-case scenario.
pressure fluctuates a couple lbs if i remember right. but nothing big. and seems to bonce quickly... may ill try to get a video.
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People have always talked about Walbros being loud. I have had 2 and don't hear them with the car running. First car was a full interior eg coupe. Of course you heard it turning the car on, but never once the engine was running. My current EF is 100% gutted and I don't hear it with the engine running.
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Yeah, mine wernt ever loud either. But I have a guy I know that has a ek, and it sounds like he kicked on a vacuum cleaner when he goes to prime his car.
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I got a CDM 044 pump from JD a while back. Put that inline on my EF and holy shit that things loud. It sounds like I could just connect that to the wheels and run 10's, screw the engine.
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Cdm pumps make me nervous. That's one area I don't think I would try and save a buck.
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It was free, I'm saving lots of bucks. Lol
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How much power are you looking to get out of this?
realistically on the 14b, 240-260whp. if i swap to a 16g in the future 280-320whp...
With that you probably shouldn't have to bother, I ran a DRAG III + LS swap in my HF on the stock HF pump for about a year...Then the pump died, but believe that was due to the clogged strainer. I've been running my 2.0L LS/VTEC on stock wires and Walbro for a while and Ive probably hit 400whp on that setup... However I can hear the pump's pitch audibly change whenever I hit the wipers, turn signals or headlights at idle. So that tells me that the pump isn't being supplied enough current/voltage at idle at very least without evening putting a meter on it... I will probably re-wire it at some point, whenever I get back in a place with a garage.
That being said, I did relay and rewire the stock fuel pump(all the way to the tank) in my JRSC DB8 daily to squeeze all the juice out of it...Mainly because I was running out of fueling on the big end(gotta love 130% duty cycle :-\ )
A relay, 10ft of 12ga wire, and some connectors is about $10 from Walmart, real cheap insurance. My $.02
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oh yeah, i did this like a month ago. i dont notice the pitch change anymore with the wipers/loads on. i do have a delay now for fuel pump prime? i didnt have it with the ITR when i rewired the pump. but it could be how the AEM EMS behaves too? idk. put the AEM in like the next day.
didnt take a single pic of what i did, so no write up lol.
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Plug your Honda ecu in and see if there is a delay in the priming if your worried about it.
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yep, nope. too much work. O0
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With chassis getting older and shittier, what once didn't need wired now does.