:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: PhilStubbs on February 03, 2013, 09:26:42 AM
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Came across this and thought $50 was completely ridiculous. I have a pile of LEDs laying around. Anyone know how this works?
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi571.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss152%2FSecksyPeePee%2F8cddb7222ab02f3e276f9cc53d8d5608_zps40a0a377.jpg&hash=b41e6e8090603c48f8d70292f4639e4de0594349)
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If it is done of the price, I'm down.
That is based on the wire list in pgmfi.org library, under troubleshooting.
Had to use that wire list for troubleshooting recently. :noel:
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Looks fairly priced, IMO. I make more money doing other things in the handful of hours it will take you to fab one of those. I think the 0.45" "Moates G2" adapter I made in a pinch took three and a half hours?
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What gets me is its $6 in parts and probably takes 15 seconds to make if its done by machine, 15min if done by a person. $50? I wouldn't use it enough, maybe that's why I'd rather make one.
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If your not confident in your solder joints, then don't solder. It will either work or not. If not, then pull back out and make sure you don't have any solder slag connecting any joints to each other, like leg to leg.
Neat idea though for the rookies.
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I rarely have one not work and I have done 40-50 ecu's. it would just be nice as a quick troubleshooter. I get cats that act funny at times that I didn't chip and I could stick that in to find out if it's the chip job or something else
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Looks fairly priced, IMO. I make more money doing other things in the handful of hours it will take you to fab one of those. I think the 0.45" "Moates G2" adapter I made in a pinch took three and a half hours?
You GROUNDED all the pins, right? ;)
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What gets me is its $6 in parts and probably takes 15 seconds to make if its done by machine, 15min if done by a person. $50? I wouldn't use it enough, maybe that's why I'd rather make one.
You're going to learn the hard way. And, I think you should.
Looks fairly priced, IMO. I make more money doing other things in the handful of hours it will take you to fab one of those. I think the 0.45" "Moates G2" adapter I made in a pinch took three and a half hours?
You GROUNDED all the pins, right? ;)
Thanks for the backup on that, BTW. It worked like a charm until a nice shiny adapter arrived in the mail from Moates. I'll keep it for future use, never know when some stone age bit like that will come in handy.
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I was so long since I built that 16timer I forgot what was hi/low. To be honest I think I built the first one with "F" being the first mem address, "0" being the last. lol
btw:
46 75 63 6B 59 6F 75 21
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Anything that makes troubleshooting less of a pain in the ass is a worthwhile endeavor.
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And sidesteps Hondata.
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What gets me is its $6 in parts and probably takes 15 seconds to make if its done by machine, 15min if done by a person. $50? I wouldn't use it enough, maybe that's why I'd rather make one.
It's been a month and a half, post pics of your progress?
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I have been busy, I need you to spoon feed me electronics information.
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You have P28.pdf, faggot. Open it up, look?
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I have some. No real time to sit down and really study it. I managed to follow the J1 circuit a little and all shows well with my multimeter on that ecu I'm having trouble with. I also ran through a pinout from pgmfi.org that showed both the 20 pin and 28 pin chips had solid connections and no bridged pins. I'm lost on this ecu, but I'm determined since I got it in a short end of the stick trade. Even working perfectly it wasn't the best deal for me, but I will make way more use of an obd1 ecu than I will a cable D tranny.
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Does anybody have an idea on how to just take an Ostrich 2.0 and use it as a means diagnose the ecu similar to that Hondata piece?
Maybe a simple separate program for it.
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Damn, I bet that would be fairly easy for someone that understands that stuff.
There are some people using TunerPro to do cell tracing on cars they can't log the conventional way. Sounds promising.
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Does anybody have an idea on how to just take an Ostrich 2.0 and use it as a means diagnose the ecu similar to that Hondata piece?
Maybe a simple separate program for it.
Huh.
That might be possible, depending on the actual premise of the Ostrich.