:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: random-strike on November 12, 2024, 01:36:40 PM
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Hey guys, i need to downsize on vehicles after i got my son his car, insurance is ridic, i'm sick of paying hundreds of dollars a month and not even driving the car(s)
sold my CTS-V and selling my turbo dakota r/t right now
current state:
all stock motor and 8 speed
belltec 2/4 drop, stock everything else :-X
24s wheels LOL
some muffler, i didnt even look. it sounds great though
the truck looks cool af, the ride isn't great. its not horrible like i could probably drive it this way, someone else did. but its not ideal. i wanted to get this truck and get rid of my r/t because i wanted something that rode very nice.
first mods: ride quality.
first thing, is the really bad swaying it feels like a donk car on stilts sometimes.
i bought track bar relocation brackets to correct the track bar angle to eliminate the swaying.
this needs to be done asap, the truck is actually pretty dangerous even with the stock motor at over 80mph is not a pleasant experience.
these tires are fucked, it pulls to the right even after being aligned, tires have weird wear on them
i like these wheels, and they look great, but ive never had a car or truck with 24s that drove very nice.
i'm thinking about just getting 22s and new tires, this is kinda expensive
if i could get away with keeping the 24s and getting new tires, that would be great, but i would be really disappointed if it still was shitty driving, i'm really anal about tracking straight with the wheel perfectly straight. CAUSE I'M STRAIGHT!
we'll see how i feel when i go to buy, but i'm thinking about qa1 adjustables, or belltech street performance non adjustable shocks.
to be honest i'll probably go with the belltechs, it would be ~450 bucks instead of ~800 for the qa1
these PCMs can still be tuned with HPTUNERS, so i'll tune the MDS off, and tune transmission to be more like a car than a truck, make it a little more fun to drive. i can turn off the MDS using the gear selection buttons currently at least. the MDS sounds REALLY bad with aftermarket muffler(s)
long term plan is supercharging i do not want to cut up anything on this truck.
thinking about hellcat blower, or torqstorm centrifugal
22mpg with MDS off mix of highway/country roads/city hard to tell what my r/t was getting, but usually around 16-17 in the same conditions.
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i think these are aftermarket lights, the seal is bad and water getting into it. i took them off and letting them dry out by the stove and will reseal. these headlights even the china ones are almost 300 bucks
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drying
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Dried out and put some clear flex seal on :Jew:
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ya sealant should take car of that, if not they make clear Flex-seal now!! ;DDD
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yah i used clear flex seal on it but it still leaks bad, going to try again i guess. must be leaking from somewhere other than the main spot it comes apart
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also the reason it won't align is because sometimes you need to cut the inner or outer tie rod ends to allow enough adjustment, i just bought two new outer tie rods and cut them both 3/8 and that should be enough to align both sides, one side was able to align and one wasn't
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i had to cut the inner tie rod on the passenger side to get it to align but that gave plenty of room, it drives straight now even tho shwabs said other parts of the alignment are maxed out, but its good to go for now
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headlight still getting condensation in it, i took it off and i noticed that these housings didn't have vents, so i dried it out again and drilled some holes where the vents are supposed to be
there wasn't a lot in there but it was just starting to fog up, which i think is normal when the vents are blocked on the stock housings
well see.
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headlight still getting condensation in it, i took it off and i noticed that these housings didn't have vents, so i dried it out again and drilled some holes where the vents are supposed to be
there wasn't a lot in there but it was just starting to fog up, which i think is normal when the vents are blocked on the stock housings
well see.
How much is new headlights?
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289 lol
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bitch won't stop fogging up lol
i'm about ready to throw some moisture capturing things in there
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seems to be getting better lol
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i just ended up buying a set of amazon headlights still fogging up really bad. oh well
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I like the black Dakota better :noel:
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Lol yah it's badass
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the black dakota does kinda have a meaner stance. but, i do like this new truck a lot.
this black piece on the bottom of the bumper looks like it can be removed, and that is the perfect place for a intercooler.
torqstorm s/c with fmic intercooler down there
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just ordered
qa1s front and rear and a hellwig rear sway bar
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i finally got all the parts i need, waiting for a little bit better weather
can't wait to see how it rides. hopefully it rides pretty well on the 24s
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i finally got all the parts i need, waiting for a little bit better weather
can't wait to see how it rides. hopefully it rides pretty well on the 24s
24s! why?
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dunno lol they were on there when i got the truck
i'll probably put 22s on but not right away if it rides alright on the 24s... i like the wheels lol
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installing now, not the most annoying thing but kinda annoying. needed to buy a drill bit and a 21mm wrench to cut up so i could reach back of shocks in rear
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i installed everything this weekend, it defiantly rides better but its no Cadillac. the handling is amazing honestly, it handles really well for a truck now.
i have the sway bar in the middle adjustment, the front shocks are at 6 and the rears are at 10. its a little bouncy but not horrible, i tried the rears at 8 and 12 and 12 was definitely a bigger difference in bounciness. 6 seems to be pretty spot on for the front, i can't adjust them easily anyways i at least have to lay underneath if not loosen the bolts on the bottom of the shock to reach the adjuster
i cut off the bump stop pockets, but the ****** still slams on sharp bumps even if its not a big bump. very annoying. should it hit so hard that is slams the frame with only a 4" drop???? its very annoying i wish it wouldn't do that.
i would consider a 2" drop in the rear if it stopped it from slamming
otherwise, it drives a lot better and i'm pretty happy with it.
i think the 24s are part of the harsh ride honestly.
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message body
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yes tires act as progressive springs, side height as the mount the tires can compress.
Higher profile tires will give you more comfort, less handling.
Kool tire calculator and wheel fitment site I found to help:
https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/
It can help figure out differences in wheel weight, wheel speed, braking, cornering, wheel offsets, suspensions clearances, and much more.
Doesn't show you exact truck, b/c they stop updating truck info 2010. But you set up you existing setup and clearances, then compare wheel and tire spec combo you want to try.
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damn cool
yah i know these 24s look cool buy overall they're GAY AF.
its also lame, its gunna cost like 3-4k for wheels and tires i bet
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:'(
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:'(
ouch my wallet saw this ran the fuq away!! :noel:
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:'(
ouch my wallet saw this ran the fuq away!! :noel:
yeah its ridic
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i had to buy and install some adjustment arms.
truck rides pretty good now, just the sharp bump slam with the low profile tires. gunna wear the tires out and probably get 20s and new tires
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froze my hands off washing truck yesterday
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That looks sooooo nice, and the uniform gap all around the tires.
Well at least from the angle you provide.
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yah its a good looking truck
when i s/c going to put a FMIC on the lower part of the bumper the black strip across the bottom
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haven't really done anything with the truck just been driving it.
its gunna cost me probably 6-7k to torqstorm supercharge it.
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haven't really done anything with the truck just been driving it.
its gunna cost me probably 6-7k to torqstorm supercharge it.
What about used market? Seeing them around 2.5k for head unit.
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i haven't looked at any used, the whole kit only costs like 3200 bucks. its just the tuning and injectors are expensive, then you have the little random parts intercooler map sensor etc