:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: CRX304 on May 26, 2009, 11:10:14 PM
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so this is basically common sense but here is a "how to" on what i did.
things that you need:
- stripped block of your choice
- epsom salt
- devcon liquid aluminum www.grainger.com (http://) (http://) (http://) (http://) (http://) (http://) ($45)
step 1:
make sure the block is level (use a level on the deck)
step 2:
look to see that the H2O drain plug is still in block, but loose
step 3:
with the water pump removed, duct-tape up where the H2O pump was
step 4:
pour salt evenly into the water jacket
step 5:
take a screwdriver and find the height just above the water pump hole and mark it on the screwdriver
step 6:
take screwdriver around the jacket at predetermined height to make the salt even
step 7:
mix the proper amount of devcon liquid aluminum.... it's about 3/4 of a Lb
step 8:
pour slowly (leaving approx 3/16" from deck) ***take your finger and run it around the water jacket removing excess material... this works well***
step 9:
let your project cure at room temp for 2 hours and the at 200* for 4 hours. What I did was put the block over a heat vent and shut the rest of the house down. So it was basically F.I. even before it was in the car.... then after 4 hrs w/ heat, I let it stand @ room temp for 18 hrs
step 10:
Pul thel drain plug after 24 hours (full cure time) and run water thru it to remove salt (at least 5 minutes) remember to spray WD40 into the bores after rinsing with H20
step 11:
put headgasket on top of the block and mark it w/ a sharpie where the coolant holes go
step 12:
use a undersized drill (1/8") to make a "pilot hole" and on the slots, drill 2 holes for the outside radai of each slot
step 13:
goto a larger sized drill and open up the holes, and slots
step 14:
blow out block after drilling then rinse w/ H20, respray WD40 in bores
step 15:
machine work, have it honed or bored or whatever
step 16:
rebuild
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.villagephotos.com%2Fp%2F2004-1%2F595043%2FJPGRU-Picture209.jpg&hash=81e4c5b211498fb3cef55df603ac200032c80dba)
now, here's the thing....
i want to dispell the myth about the overheating issue....
if done right, you will have no problems at all.
good luck!
Dr.Mike
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just fill the water jackets up all the way. im thinking about doing it on a scrap d15 block i got......
where da pics at
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I honestly wouldn't have a problem w/ that as long as it's a purpose built track whore... 40psi+
BTW... I changed the text from the original on HMT... so Stickey this if you like
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i believe that if you wanted it to be a sticky, you must post pics step by step
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So would a vitara D build only seeing about 200-230hp benefit from this. I'm thinking about it in case the boost bug bites and it needs to get raised. Oh and if I do this will the honing/boring and acid dip (assume they use acid) at the machine shop hurt it?
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the only time i seen it cause overheating issues is when you dont clean it out all the way. a friend did it and little pieces clogged his radiator.
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the filling the block stuff was a fad. If its a daily driver you can make more power than you'll likely be able to get to hook up on street tires on a nonfilled block.
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What about hotrex's thread where he cracked all 4 sleeves after doing this? I think it was on Hondaswap ot Ht. From what I remember, he was ass raping it at 23 psi for quite some time though.
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What about hotrex's thread where he cracked all 4 sleeves after doing this? I think it was on Hondaswap ot Ht. From what I remember, he was ass raping it at 23 psi for quite some time though.
You gotta consider the source.
His timing prolly wasn't right and didn't machine the block AFTER the filling.... Not 100% positive... mabye he should answer for himself...
I've filled 10 blocks, and 2 of them were my own.... and NEVER had a problem EXCEPT when my main relay FAILED (like I hit a Brick wall) at 100+ mph @ 15+ psi and cracked all 4 of my Wiseco slugs..... but the block was fine....LMAO.
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Here was the link from Hondaswap. It was amended with this message pointing to a post on HT.
http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/write-up-diy-block-filling-62903/ (http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/write-up-diy-block-filling-62903/)
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1444721&page=21 (http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1444721&page=21)
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Updated by Moderator:
A honda-tech thread link is given to show some negative results possibly resulting from the DIY blockguard.
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1444721&page=21 (http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1444721&page=21)
There is no direct evidence supporting the argument that the use of the devcon blockguard was the ONLY reason for failure, but do this modification at your own risk, as can be suggested for any engine modifications.
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Good to know someone has done this successfully on that many blocks.
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the filling the block stuff was a fad. If its a daily driver you can make more power than you'll likely be able to get to hook up on street tires on a nonfilled block.
quoted for the truef
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LOCKED for ME
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What about hotrex's thread where he cracked all 4 sleeves after doing this? I think it was on Hondaswap ot Ht. From what I remember, he was ass raping it at 23 psi for quite some time though.
You gotta consider the source.
His timing prolly wasn't right and didn't machine the block AFTER the filling.... Not 100% positive... mabye he should answer for himself...
I've filled 10 blocks, and 2 of them were my own.... and NEVER had a problem EXCEPT when my main relay FAILED (like I hit a Brick wall) at 100+ mph @ 15+ psi and cracked all 4 of my Wiseco slugs..... but the block was fine....LMAO.
His timing was 100% correct.
The sad fact of the matter is that B16 blocks crack sleeves worse than anything. The only Honda blocks that I've broken sleeves in are B16, and the rate of failure is 50% of them that make more than 280whp.
hotrex's $45 worth of Devcon saved him a tow bill home, as the sleeves couldn't go anywhere. The end.
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You drill holes for the coolant to flow through.
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yes. now i understand..i didnt read salt , how do you remove it after that? i assume with coolant or so.. nice mod really and cheap.
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yes. now i understand..i didnt read salt , how do you remove it after that? i assume with coolant or so.. nice mod really and cheap.
Just flush it out with lots of water.
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don't forget to follow up w/ WD-40 O0
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walter please unlearn English.
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walter please unlearn English.
Who are you? You know too much ppl to be new to this site.
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I is new dawg.
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It's one of rawr's shill accounts.
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I thought rawr was unbanned?
Go in chat baldy.
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explained a lot. Fuck you rawr.
woof night. I'm done with this fucking day.
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dont use the salt, sugar is way better.
Once you drill the goles out you just run boiling water throught the block and the sugar is all gone in 30 seconds! O0
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Lets think about it people. Zarcorp sounds like some type of late 1980's possibly but most likely gay euro trash band. "for an example see The Cure"
It could be no one else but Rawr. Leave it to an intellectual to feel superior about hitting the wrong hole in the wrong gender.
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It's a done with eurotrash record label, but I'm still not Caleb. :-*
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It's a done with eurotrash record label, but I'm still not Caleb. :-*
Have you consumed any pancakes yet?
Dont you just feel all warm and fuzzy that everyone here forgot you so quickly?
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Honestly I wouldn't expect any less.
I came and went to NY, not by motorcycles though. In a TOYOTA VAN THE MID ENGINE ONES IT WAS RAD.
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ok
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Seriously.
I want a turbothis badge of honor.
I'm not going to copy and paste that shit into my sig though. That's lame.
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This thread went to a selfish sense of lack of security for ones mistake of choosing same sex.
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Yall make me wanna slit a babies throat
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Yall gay.
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Yall filled ur blockz
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Pwnz