:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: junkyard racer on May 30, 2009, 10:27:39 AM
-
My car is not charging. New battery, new Alt. it is charging at 12.8 and needs to be around 13-5ish. All of the grounds appear to be good (they are tight) everything is connected.
Any thoughts.
2000 integra. LS
-
does the voltage go up when you rev it?
-
voltage drop all of your starting/charging wiring..check if you have a bad wire.
-
Test the voltage at the alt it self. if it is a t 13+v then the wire that goes from it to the battery burnt up a bit.
-
have battery power at the big power wire with the car off?
-
Thanks for all of the help. I'm stuck in Wytheville, Va at a super8 trying to drive to Indiana. :(
I will try all of this stuff when I get home. I've got my brother driving down from Indiana with a trailer. I don't have a multimeter, and advance auto down the road has helped as much as they can. I guess I could buy a multimeter, but I'm limited here at the motel with what little tools I have. Sucks so bad.
BTW, I got out of the Marine Corps yesterday. :)
does the voltage go up when you rev it?
No. It stays steady
have battery power at the big power wire with the car off?
Test the voltage at the alt it self. if it is a t 13+v then the wire that goes from it to the battery burnt up a bit.
Didnt check that. I dont have a multimeter.
***Move this to the tech***
-
even a cheap ass test light should get this diagnosed. Did you check ALL fuses?
-
its charging, just not charging the full voltage
-
I call 12.8 not charging ;)
-
I shoulda said, its working, just not the way it should. I know its not charging. read my first sent. in post #1
-
Maybe the belt is too loose?
-
When I first read the thread title I thought it was another n/a mike post lol
Same thing happened in my EF with new battery and alt tested good. Turned out was a bad ground.
-
Maybe the belt is too loose?
fairly new belt, and it is tight
When I first read the thread title I thought it was another n/a mike post lol
Same thing happened in my EF with new battery and alt tested good. Turned out was a bad ground.
when I get this thing back home, I plan to do a little testing with the multimeter, and pull the entire harness...check all of the grounds again. my guess, its probably something really simple.
-
bump
-
Maybe the belt is too loose?
fairly new belt, and it is tight
Belt will squeal at lower RPMs or break and rip, but it would never be the reason why you're having low voltage output.
-
Fix it?
-
bump
-
Car still sits in my driveway, unattended. Bought a house which is consuming 90% of my time and been busting my ass trying to sling my "I need a job" campaign. The car is pretty much no longer my DD...so I haven't been too worried about getting it resolved. My brother in law is coming over sometime this week with his new super duper swoopy snap-on scan tool thingy and I think it will tell me my problem.
We did get a lot of looks pulling it home though. 8)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2139%2F3642023932_6a03d0b5f0_b.jpg&hash=dd5cbff18fcc0bec717f71b04089d506a9defbda)
-
Scanner is useless for that model car. While there is an AltC pin between the ECU and voltage regulator, it's a dummy option. The regulator will make the alternator charge perfectly if you just power the one blk/yel pin (which is switched power, anyway). If you have switched power on that pin and it doesn't charge then your alternator is infested with gay and you need to give Meredith a little brother or sister to keep that gay from spreading to you, Mr. Pants.
-
bump
-
bump to return heterosexuality to this thread.
-
bump for no time. actually, I might find some time today.
-
You have no time for heterosexuality? :(
-
Check and make sure the screw/bolt that holds the alt wire is tight in the fuse box.
I had a guy come in with the same issues, alt was good, battery good, battery voltage was steady at 12.5-12.8, turn on lights, fan blower, didn't matter, steady low voltage. It was a loose connection in the fuse box.
-
fucked with it tonight. Same shit. Held steady for about a good 30min, lights turned on, turning the car off and on trying to kill the battery...battery stayed steady right at ~11.8....same voltage at the alt. Then all the sudden...it dropped to 9.8-10 and then just died.
My brother in laws super swoopy versus snap-on tester didn't tell us much other than what we already knew. However it did do a test and that test revealed that there was shitty ground between the alt and the battery....however that didnt change when we added a ground to the alt, turning on the lights...adding anything electrical.
It does throw a code... for the ELD, electric load detector...which I think is the alt? My brother in law seems to think the fucking alt is stupid and I should change it. I already did that shit though...and the one thats on the car now tested just as good as the brand new one.
I think swell might be onto something.
Thoughts?
-
The ELD is in the underhood fuse box. All USDM cars have them, and only USDM ECUs look for them.
-
Did you test power out put right at the alt?
-
fucked with it tonight. Same shit. Held steady for about a good 30min, lights turned on, turning the car off and on trying to kill the battery...battery stayed steady right at ~11.8....same voltage at the alt. Then all the sudden...it dropped to 9.8-10 and then just died.
My brother in laws super swoopy versus snap-on tester didn't tell us much other than what we already knew. However it did do a test and that test revealed that there was shitty ground between the alt and the battery....however that didnt change when we added a ground to the alt, turning on the lights...adding anything electrical.
It does throw a code... for the ELD, electric load detector...which I think is the alt? My brother in law seems to think the fucking alt is stupid and I should change it. I already did that shit though...and the one thats on the car now tested just as good as the brand new one.
I think swell might be onto something.
Thoughts?
check your 8mm bolt that goes into the fuse box from the alternator,and your 10mm nut on the alternator.
-
The ELD is in the underhood fuse box. All USDM cars have them, and only USDM ECUs look for them.
chech.
Did you test power out put right at the alt?
yes.
check your 8mm bolt that goes into the fuse box from the alternator,and your 10mm nut on the alternator.
one on the alt is solid. One that goes into the fuse box im not so sure of. Ill check it today.
-
Tracked it down to fuse no15. Weird thing...it was charging great when I put a new fuse in. I let it sit and idle for awhile...was charging right at 14v. So, I thought I would take it for a quick spin around town...see what happened. Get to my wifes work, check the battery...its down to 11.4ish. Great. I head back home...it dies just before I get to my driveway. I popped the hood...put the multimeter on the battery...its slowing going up. started in the high 10's...stopped at the 11.7 range. (the car is off)
Could the ELD be bad and throwing the fuse?
One more question...the manual says something about checking pin16 (green/red) wire on the D plug that goes into the ECU. That wire is cut...or it broke or something. Where does that wire go to? On the backside of the ELD there is a green/red wire that comes out of that mofo. It was broke/cut before it started popping fuses though. I am confused.
Fuse 15 is for the alt and the speed sensor. My spedometer is also not working.
-
Turns out, it was the gauge cluster...and Id venture to say it was the gauge cluster a good portion of the entire time. The gauge cluster and the alt share the same fuse, #15. I pulled the gauge cluster out to find a wire pinched...I redid the wiring and all is fine and dandy...so far. :?: