:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: speedjunky01 on June 08, 2009, 01:28:21 PM
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I know this is a fairly simple install but it may be useful for some people
tools:
10mm socket
17mm socket
fillips screwdriver
normal screwdriver
and some pliars
the car:
this install is being done on a 93 civic, but should work on just about any civic/teg 89-00 with only slight differences in removal of pump
start off by removing the back seat, in the 92-95 civic there is a 10mm bolt holding the seat down. fold the seats down to reveal the bolt
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F0608091140-00.jpg&hash=1fcdc61d4e6534b519abfbcd97930c91c491e3c9)
once the bolt is out pull the seat up and then forward to remove it. you will now see the pump cover, remove it to reveal the top of your gas tank and the pump housing
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F0608091151-00.jpg&hash=64e993b4a66e5de7fcabf7f50914e83fb6481a0c)
disconnect the the plug under the boot, remove the banjo bolt using a 17mm wrench as well as all the 10mm bolts around the housing, and remove the return line carefully using pliers to remove the clip holding the line on. be careful not to loose the crush washers under the bajo bolt, or to damage any lines
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F0608091156-00.jpg&hash=b2959e5034d3a1bd2f9d8a9d61910c58c693918a)
pull the pump up and forward at about a 45* angle from the top of the tank, let the fuel drain out out the filter and also flip the pump upside down to drain any fuel from it
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F0608091157-00.jpg&hash=7a4a97375bb03af935cab8d3f75c3c0c4d831fda)
comparing the two pumps you can see the walbro is slightly larger
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F0608091159-00.jpg&hash=e1d35fbd630b7dbd2613ec8ed71d9c813869a0bc)
remove the old pump by removing the filter on the bottom, there is a circular retaining clip you can see in the later pic, then remove the factory hose clamps and pull out the hose and pump. should be left with just what holds the pump in the tank
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F0608091209-00.jpg&hash=ef0692a824ec10a54dd012a10b25764e2b7e7ab5)
put one and of the supplied hose onto the line and tighten that end down well with the provided worm gear, then put the walbro dext to the line and eyeball/mark where the line should be cut.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F0608091212-00.jpg&hash=f945d93287bf8cdd7851bee41e2f1f73e8b46eb1)
cut the line, slide a worm gear clamp on, and attach the line to the walbro, slide the walbro into the stock assembly and insert the runner pump isolator from the stock pump under the walbro 255 so it doesn't vibrate or hit against metal when in the tank.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F0608091216-00.jpg&hash=347f0ecc126a4bc8d85ca617b377df7b0ae51898)
next up put the fuel filter sack thing on, it will fit just like on the stock unit. slide the retaining ring on using a screwdriver to push it down as far as you can.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F0608091219-00.jpg&hash=c24550f80572490be8e08868154c51f0a0cff6e2)
reinstall the new pump,tightening the bolts in a star pattern to seat the seal on the top of the tank well, before putting the seat on turn the car over to make sure there are no leaks and prepare for your tank to be drained much faster :D
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very nice, sticky material ;D
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You civic guys have it easy. Accords have to drop the tank to get to the pump.
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very nice, sticky material ;D
thanks man, not sure if i should rehost the pics elsewhere since photobucket has randomly taken some pics down before
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You forgot make sure the tank is less than 1/4 full...thats semi important btw.
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Now re-wire the fuel pump ;)
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i can't wait till my car is running so i can cut random holes in it.
i do it all the time
i have to cut my new bumper to fit my new balloon tires
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Now re-wire the fuel pump ;)
why would i do that? it was simple plug and play
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Now re-wire the fuel pump ;)
why would i do that? it was simple plug and play
Because the stock wiring has a lot of resistance and is small as fuck, good enough to power on a bigger sized realy though.
Im still running my stock pump with a Holset on an LS because it's sufficient enough for my use. Use the stock power and ground to power a relay, run 8 gauge power wire off the battery through the relay, and 8 gauge ground to the body near the pump. Whines like a walbro on stock wires, when I had a walbro with the same wiring setup you could hear the pump from 25 feet of my car.
My stock pump is good enough for 8psi so far, but im sure it can do more, haven't had the motor last long enough for more boost yet, apparetly 250k mile motors don't like boost too much and like to eat bearing instead of boost.
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Now re-wire the fuel pump ;)
why would i do that? it was simple plug and play
Voltage drop puts around 9-10 volts at the pump cruising. Straight 12V 10 gauge wire at least (relay'd of course) to the pump is the win.
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Now re-wire the fuel pump ;)
why would i do that? it was simple plug and play
Because the stock wiring has a lot of resistance and is small as fuck, good enough to power on a bigger sized realy though.
Im still running my stock pump with a Holset on an LS because it's sufficient enough for my use. Use the stock power and ground to power a relay, run 8 gauge power wire off the battery through the relay, and 8 gauge ground to the body near the pump. Whines like a walbro on stock wires, when I had a walbro with the same wiring setup you could hear the pump from 25 feet of my car.
My stock pump is good enough for 8psi so far, but im sure it can do more, haven't had the motor last long enough for more boost yet, apparetly 250k mile motors don't like boost too much and like to eat bearing instead of boost.
never thought of this, not a bad idea at all.
my 250k d16 is loving boost 8)
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Try it.
It's simple, cheap and very beneficial.
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Try it.
It's simple, cheap and very beneficial.
ive had bad luck with electrical shit before, the 255 is pushing MORE then enough fuel for now lol
ill keep it in mind though once the extra motor is built
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yes the rewire works wonders like mentioned.
we were having issues with the fuel pressure dropping off when we upped the boost on a friends car running a 255, so we swapped in a new pump think it may have been a bad pump as it was of unknown age. same shit. well then we did a rewire and bam plenty of fuel.
we wern't to happy we wasted the time pulling the pump. >:(
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You civic guys have it easy. Accords have to drop the tank to get to the pump.
samething for EFs,
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i had no idea the stock wiring was as shitty as u guys make it sound.
So...are you guys using the main relay to power another relay with larger gauge wiring...?
or are you just bypassing the main relay, to wire in ur own, for the pump?
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i had no idea the stock wiring was as shitty as u guys make it sound.
So...are you guys using the main relay to power another relay with larger gauge wiring...?
or are you just bypassing the main relay, to wire in ur own, for the pump?
i just used my factory fuel pump wires to fire a relay i had, which is heavier gauge wires right from battery to the fuel pump. havent had any troubles. good luck ;D