:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Fabrication => Topic started by: toyolla86 on August 25, 2009, 09:49:59 PM
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ive been shopping for a bottle of agron so i can build my engloid style tig welder. the bottle is the last big part of the setup that i needed. i found one online for 125. thought it was a good deal and called the guy. he had already sold it. so i went on waiting for something to pop up.
upon looking for a new apartment (with a garage) we find a great place. she shows us the garage and as she opens it starts explaining why this huge ass bottle (K bottle) of helium is sitting in the garage. she says,"oh the construction workers left that here when they were building the place. we just havent thrown it away yet."
hahahahaha i was like..., "well can i have it." not letting her know of my excitement.
she goes, sure.
its one of those huge ass bottles that i think you have to have a business license to buy.
anyways its huge and it was free and almost exactly what i was looking for.
woohooooooooooooooooo.
now all i need is a plug, stinger, and 220
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do they allow you fill a helium bottle with argon?
also tig is also known as heliarc, you can use helium
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oh yeah. i plan on using it instead of argon. we'll see how it turns out.
the plan was to use argon but helium will do...hopefully :?:
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I bought a fucking small bottle of argon and it was over 250 by the time I walked out... Sucked, but it's mine now.
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yep thats about the same prices i was looking at paying.
the only thing about this bottle is that its so freakin big
that i dont know how im going to bring it anywhere w/out a truck.
and i own anything BUT a truck.
i was thinking about going 50/50. do they just add argon or do they have bottles prefilled they way.
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I bought my 90 at the local welding supply for $125 with the fill.
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most gas co's rent bottles. i pay $75 a year for each of my 330's on lease. $65 to fill.
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I payed $110 for a 10/yr lease on a 330 tank.
I think leasing is the best way to go because quick turn around is nice, around here the filling station is not local so i would have to wait a day to get a tank if i owned one.
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i gotta throw the flowmeter on the tank and see how full it is. that would be badass if it was pretty much full.
of course its been sitting for a good while i bet.
wonder if helium has a shelf life
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ok i got to the bottle and tried to take off the cap that protects the nozzle on top.
its freakin seized on there. how can i get it off. i banged a little on it and stuck a little metal rod in the hole and tried to spin it.
what should i try next.
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my 90 was about 120-10 afew years ago bought. now my 125 was signifigantly less
helium sucks donkey balls. It requires flow rates of 150%+ and produces an unstable harder lighting arc. just because its expencive and burns hotter doesn't mean its worth a shit
spray some PB on it
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ok so i put a little bit of old motor oil thinned with gasoline in the vent holes to the cap of the bottle and banged on it back and forth for a bit and then started twisting and it popped right open. the threads were mad rusty.
i got my flowmeter on (its a smith) and it seems to not be working. i screwed it onto the bottle, opened the bottle and saw that it has a little helium left in it. i tried to open the knob on my tig torch but nothing came out. so now i go back to the flowmeter and start looking for whatever it is thats supposed to let the gas flow through. i screwed in a couple of screws but the only thing that starts flowing out is this one screw that looks like its there for a safety bypass.
hmmmm. idk what else to do. ive screwed everything in and out and the torch still has no gas coming out. maybe its my torch.
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does gas come out when you open the valve with no reg on there?
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have not tired that yet. gas is getting to the gauge cause its giving a reading.
then theres a bleeder adjuster screw that gas also comes out of. thats the only place ive been able
to get gas to come out of.
the ball that should move up and down according to the flow isnt moving at all.
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sorry it took forever to get the pics up.
heres my free bottle.
and i figured out what was going wrong with the flowmeter.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy166%2Fkenada%2FDSCN3024.jpg&hash=e658c6a075e59d490335b16206b6783a0b5718ad)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy166%2Fkenada%2FDSCN3022.jpg&hash=3c889994870476df3cc031ff9cc641b312c30fae)
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this is my first attempt at using a flowmeter so im a newb to it.
theres a knob on top of the meter part that needs to be opened.
also i put in there my stinger that i got for 5 bucks at nps. brand new.
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What exactly is an Engloid style TIG?
I must have missed out on this discussion in the past when he posted on OHMT.
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its essentially a a peice of brass that is stuck in the negative side of a arc/stick welder. it has a provision for running a gas line to it and out to a tig torch. this way you get gas and power through 1 line.
kinda sucky thing is that it is only scratch start, and only DC as you have no high frequency.
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might want to chain that sucker to the wall. there are plenty of videos where those bottles lose the valve when they get knocked over
i love that one episode of American Chopper when one falls over and everyone just looks at each other and is like, "that could have been real bad" then they all go back to work cause they are so far behind schedule
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might want to chain that sucker to the wall. there are plenty of videos where those bottles lose the valve when they get knocked over
i love that one episode of American Chopper when one falls over and everyone just looks at each other and is like, "that could have been real bad" then they all go back to work cause they are so far behind schedule
hahahah thats funny. freakin missile hazard and they just look at each other. hahah
if you look closely at the pic of the flowmeter you can see the tig torch as well. and you can see the knob on top of the torch for the gas.
as far as i know (i havent actually hooked this contraption up to power yet) you hook the -neg- to the part and the +pos+ to the power block on the same line as the torch.
i got that torch from my father in law and he told me how he used it. so im certain that this way atleast works.
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TIG must be done with positive on your ground clamp and negative in your torch
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TIG must be done with positive on your ground clamp and negative in your torch
Depends what you are welding, you can use EP or EN.
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well now i dont know what to do.
i guess ill just try either way depending on what material
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for your purposes you are going to be using DCEN, the electrons fly out of the torch to heat the base metal. this is how you weld steel, you can hook it up the other way, DCEP, but you have to use fairly low current and you can weld super clean aluminum. the thing is the tungsten melts way to fast becuase all the heat is going right into it.
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ahhh interesting.
now i need a different tip (tungsten or something else)
for SS vs aluminum right.
they have a little color code on the tungsten.
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well you can use just about any tungsten for any metal, some just work better for certian metals.
general rules is
red (2% thorium) is for steel/stainless, it seems to not erode as fast .
green(pure) for aluminum, it balls up nicely and stays in a ball although when you go to grind it you find it is super brittle and you routinely get like an inch that just snaps off.
although im pretty sure some newer machines, specifically inverters, call for red tungsten for everything. you even use a pointed tip for aluminum.
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well thank you for the insight