:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: Super Dipper on March 11, 2009, 04:50:43 AM
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Again, like the other thread, ill be moving over pics and material from the old site slowly.
well, the old light bulb went on when a guy on Honda-Tech built the first AWD ef chassis hatchback using the Realtime AWD drivetrain from the 88-91 Civic Station Wagons. The guys that built that car used a sohc vtec motor with a pretty radical turbo kit pumping out 430whp on the stock block.
For our motor, we are gonna be using a DOHC 1.6L JDM ZC block built with low compression D16A6 pistons and rods, and a PG7 86-89 USDM Integra cylinder head.
The donor car for the drivetrain will be a 88 Honda Civic Station Wagon with the Realtime AWD standard transmission drivetrain.
All of this madness will be stuffed into my old crx chassis that was in a major front end wreck a few years back. I ended up selling the car and then buying it back to do something stupid with it. The boys at pretech are going to work their magic and straigten out the front end and give it a quick squirt of paint.
Anyway onto the pics. This one is gonna take a while so dont expect too many quick updates. These first few pics are of the donor car and the dismantling/part out of everything we are gonna need for the swap.
Thx to cole @ plus one in nanaimo for finding us a buyer for the motor from the donor car to help us with cost of the car. :thumbsup:
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With the motor and drivetrain out the next big task is to pull the entire electrical system including the dash, body and trailing harness and then the biggest thing, cutting out the driveshaft tunnel. I dont think we are gonna need it. Id rather go the route of drilling out the driveshaft hangers from the wagon and welding them into the crx floor and rerouting the exhaust as required, but hey, im not about to argue with the head tech on the matter. We cross that bridge when we get there.
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^ haha you can see where we cut the floor out here to save the tunnel for our crx.
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we started to prep the interior sheet metal to weld in the wagon tunnel this weekend by removing the sound deadening that honda puts on the floor of the car. Normally, you have to either sit there and peel it off, grind it off or melt it off....we opted to try something a little different....
Dry Ice! I wish i had time stamps on the pics to show just how quick this process went. But all in all, total time from start to finish was about 35 mins....
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meh, we aint gonna bother with seam welding this one.
tunnel is in....its about 80% welded up with driveshaft hung to make sure everything is lined up correctly.
the rest of the tunnel welding will be done tomorrow and then the interior goes back in, shift bucket goes in and gonna start figuring out the gas tank and other rear end shit.
here are some more progress pics
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this is very kick-ass
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Sick build, carry on
Updates with pics please.
Thanks.
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current update:
ordered up my front mount for the car through evans performance. gotta rock the CDM love.
also PM'ed weirtech about a possbile HF to T3 adapter so i can run a holset h1c or possibly a another HY35. If not, ill grab the manifold apex offered up to me.
im gonna be hitting up the shop this weekend, so i can get the motor pulled and strip it down and inspect everything and make sure its good and start reassembly. Its been sitting on a stand for the past 5 years so who knows wtf has gotten into it while its sitting and whats a weekend really.
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good shit so far man
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what cam gears are those?
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what cam gears are those?
They look like they are STR
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What does the red "SL" on the shifter mean?
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What does the red "SL" on the shifter mean?
Super Low
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What does the red "SL" on the shifter mean?
For pulling out stumps with your turbo awd CRX :yes:
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For pulling out stumps with your turbo awd CRX :yes:
i loled
sick build glad you're bringing it over
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pretty nice, any more updates?
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Motor out and on the stand. Cleaned up and re-torqued the bottom end. Started gathering the little bits and pieces that we are missing.
Only thing we seem to be missing is a obd-0 Idle air and the upper water neck on the head.
Im gonna get the cam seals, water pump and t-belt on tomorrow, get the valves set, and get the MPFI swap done on the engine side.
i got the oil pan all cut up and will dropping it off to my buddy's dad tomorrow so he can weld up the notch so the t-case clears.
no pics tonight, i was just plugging away.
ill get some tomorrow.
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can you rehost the pics and only post/embed them on RHMT?
the fags at the oHMT seem to be taking all the bandwidth, let them bitches suffer with bandwidth exceeded shit.
Do the same with the austin mini build when you get some time.
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wtf, i did rehost those damn pics too.
aight, ill have to get that fixed asap
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thanks, love your builds.
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wtf, i did rehost those damn pics too.
aight, ill have to get that fixed asap
imageshack.us for the win
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Yea pic's not working.
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there you go bitches
:P
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Good to see this back in progress I cant wait to see the end result.
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update:
waiting for crank gear to show up and get the chopped up oil pan back from my buddy's dad once he finishes welding it up.
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My god that's alot of work.... Looks killer though. :yes:
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My god that's alot of work.... Looks killer though. :yes:
its a lot less work than putting the mini together, so im alright with it, lol.
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alright bitches UPDATES. lol its only been almost a year since i touched the car.
Motor is in and buttoned up
Turbo kit is installed
Intercooler mounted
Charge pipes done
Down pipe done
Track bar done
Pics...ok well i havent taken many, but ill get on it.
however i got a prob that you boys gotta help me with.
The head on this ZC block is from a 87 D16A1 motor which is making things interesting when it comes to bolting up distributors. I cant find one with a similar bolt pattern, even close enough to notch the mount tabs and make work.
I have 2 ZC distributors, 1 88-89 D16A1, 1 D16A6, 2 D15B7 and none of them are close. the 88-89 D16A1 and the ZC dizzy mounts are sort of close if i hog out one of the mounting tabs, but the other 2 legs are out to lunch.
The vac advance distributor sure had a much more normal triangluated mount compared to the ZC dist.
I remember JD mentioning to me that the HF dist would work but im assuming that was for a 88/89 D16A1/ZC head and not a 87 D16A1 head. Fuckin browntop
I got the same bloody issue with the external cam sensor.
So if you boys got any ideas, they would be welcomed, i would love to get a dist bolted up there so i can get ready to flash this bitch up.
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Pics...
...or it didn't happen!
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good times
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CDM goodness
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Dizzy headaches
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cheap fuel cell we picked up
more pics tonight.
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Fuck man, its about time we get an update. When I was looking at the first pics I couldn't remember if I saw this build or not, but obviously I did. I hope you get the shit firgured out and get this bitch out and tuned.
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ok so another long day at the shop, but a reasonably productive one.
The dizzy/cam sensor headache is pretty much resolved. I went back out to about the only wrecker that was open on a sat and that still had old honda stock kickin around and i was able to snag a set of D16A1 cam caps from a 88-89 blacktop motor. so now the ZC dizzy and cam sensor bolt up for the most part.
and apparently i decided to use a b-series water outlet housing on a d-series water pipe so that made getting a lower rad hose to work properly an interesting feat, but i had a set of hoses from my old LS-Vtec ef and was able to shorten up the lower rad hose enough to make it work.
all the charge pipe couplers are snugged up and good to go.
i do have to quickly pull the turbo and HF manifold out of the car so i can throw some gaskets in between the adapter plate and the turbo/manifold but that wont be a big deal tomorrow.
And the hard part of the whole thing, the trailing arms, i think we got sorted out last night. i took a whole bunch of pics and measurements and my buddies dad got them all cut up and figured out and i bolted up the right trailing arm mocked up and it was good to go. all we needed to figure out was the amount that need to be cut off of the top section of the trailing arm where the upper control needed to sit and i believe we got that down to approximately 3-3.5", i cant remember off the top of my head, but as long as both side are the same, we have a set of SPC rear upper adjustable camber arms we can use to dial in the suspension/alignment.
more tomorrow.
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ok so another long day at the shop, but a reasonably productive one.
The dizzy/cam sensor headache is pretty much resolved. I went back out to about the only wrecker that was open on a sat and that still had old honda stock kickin around and i was able to snag a set of D16A1 cam caps from a 88-89 blacktop motor. so now the ZC dizzy and cam sensor bolt up for the most part.
and apparently i decided to use a b-series water outlet housing on a d-series water pipe so that made getting a lower rad hose to work properly an interesting feat, but i had a set of hoses from my old LS-Vtec ef and was able to shorten up the lower rad hose enough to make it work.
all the charge pipe couplers are snugged up and good to go.
i do have to quickly pull the turbo and HF manifold out of the car so i can throw some gaskets in between the adapter plate and the turbo/manifold but that wont be a big deal tomorrow.
And the hard part of the whole thing, the trailing arms, i think we got sorted out last night. i took a whole bunch of pics and measurements and my buddies dad got them all cut up and figured out and i bolted up the right trailing arm mocked up and it was good to go. all we needed to figure out was the amount that need to be cut off of the top section of the trailing arm where the upper control needed to sit and i believe we got that down to approximately 3-3.5", i cant remember off the top of my head, but as long as both side are the same, we have a set of SPC rear upper adjustable camber arms we can use to dial in the suspension/alignment.
more tomorrow.
Thats good to here, we need more pic's!!!
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Thats good to here, we need more pic's!!!
+1
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bump for hotness :noel:
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Im loving this crx
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chad, you were right, the trailing arms are the worst part.
had them mocked up, took the measurements, thought everything was good, welded them up about 80% done, threw them back in the car and realized they were about 1.75" too short.
so out comes the cut off wheel to take them apart and redo them.
oh well at least it was only one side.
ill get some more pics up soon
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chad, you were right, the trailing arms are the worst part.
Ya I dont know why but they kicked my ass a bit, shortening, keeping strait and moding the upper mout was a reat treat. I have faith in you though.
Dont work too much, leave enough time to search out mini for me, lol :)
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In for the win, this is pretty bad ass man