:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: DelSlow on September 02, 2009, 02:20:19 PM
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Need some help, got my turbo kit done last night. Started up just fine, ran just fine, no check engine lights, ripped on it for a hour or so. Then just cruising down the interstate it loads up, throws a check engine light on and wants to die. Only way to keep it running is in boost or ripping on it. It runs very rich once this happens. And now every time i start my car it runs great for about 30 seconds, throws the light and loads up. I read on H-T that if your ECT temp values are incorrect that it will run rich when warm, but i didn't touch that at all so im not sure if that would be the problem?
Better to have too much ECU/Chip information than not enough, wanna get this taken care of so if there is some info you need...let me know.
Mini Me
t25/log
DSM 450s/Resistor Box
Stock FPR
Stock fuel pump
Crome p28
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi87.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk125%2FBumpinjcc%2FFUEL.jpg&hash=f099dcfcd6b5c7035e4cfe65a7a97e4276012bf3)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi87.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk125%2FBumpinjcc%2FDutyCylcle.jpg&hash=3e08db28607fbc4c4c471be7ab8be6b3335c2590)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi87.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk125%2FBumpinjcc%2FFuletables.jpg&hash=209dbeeab9bf96cbcef3e6a1572ab167c371f100)
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so let me get this straght...
you threw a turbo kit on and proceded to beat on it for an hour and now it doesn't run right?
Did you have any kind of wideband on it or did you try to reat the plugs and tune it at all?
If not see cooljnate or whatever his sn is and his life lesson of blowing up his first setup.
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I didnt beat on it for an hour, i drove it a bit with my friend who did a mild street tune just to make sure the basemap i had was working correct. I had a wideband in and everything was running perfectly normal until crusing it down the interstate. Now it idles a little rough, then when it warms up a bit it throws a code (which when jumping, ELD enabled/and disabled, wont read the code) and bogs pretty bad/runs really rich, and needs to be help at 2500/3000rpms + to stay running.
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I read on H-T
^
#1 mistake right there. If you would have said I was reading on PGMFI.ORG I would feel better about it...lol
But When it throws the code dose it limit your rpms? Sounds like its going into limp mode. How did it run b4 you turboed it? Did it have any cel's then?
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lol Yeah probly...
When it throws the code it reduces the RMPs, hence the wanting to die. Before I turbo'ed it, it ran great. No CELS.
ps. Throwing code 41 (Primary oxygen sensor heater) But i had that disabled before..
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No cel before we put the turbo kit on, it was running a stock p28.
the rpm's are not limited but it would/is hard to rev it out as it is running so rich. around 10:1 afr's on the wide band.
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At 10:1 you should still be able to get it to reline, So Im probably pretty sure that its in limp mode. Was the ecu chipped before you put the turbo in?
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No, i chipped it when we were installing the kit. All the connections from the chipping are good and like i said, it ran really really well right off the bat, no codes hiccups at all. Then just cruising down the interstate, threw a CEL and feels like its getting loaded down pretty bad.
Any suggestions from what you see to maybe fix this problem?
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At 10:1 you should still be able to get it to reline, So Im probably pretty sure that its in limp mode. Was the ecu chipped before you put the turbo in?
No you could get it to red line if i wanted to rev the shit out of it, but i saw no point going over 5k while free revving.
Have you also heard of issues caused by the ect circuit? i know fuel compensation changes based on the ect readings. but i don't know what to look for to see if something is not right.
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Pull your ecu out. Check the back of it to see if any solder has come loose and is touching two pins together. (has happened to me before)Then clean the whole board. I understand that it was great then all of a sudden it went to shit. Im just trying to help you narrow it down. So were you yousing a rtp to tune or the good old burn, read, write, burn. Have you tried a differant tune to see if it dose the same thing?
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Pull your ecu out. Check the back of it to see if any solder has come loose and is touching two pins together. (has happened to me before)Then clean the whole board. I understand that it was great then all of a sudden it went to shit. Im just trying to help you narrow it down. So were you yousing a rtp to tune or the good old burn, read, write, burn. Have you tried a differant tune to see if it dose the same thing?
Yup the read burn, shit.
We tried a map we found online also that was someone's tune with a similar setup. and same thing. also we tried hooking up the stock o2 sensor in the map, and it idles a bit better then the same shit happened.
So i think he is going to heck the ecu then we will see.
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Try a differant ecu and go from there.
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ECU board look perfectly fine.
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Try a new chip and try and reburn the map on it, or a new chip with a differant map again.
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Did that already, have 4 chips, rebunred them a couple times on each.
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What about a differant ecu?
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haven't tried a different ECU yet.
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Now it idles a little rough, then when it warms up a bit it throws a code (which when jumping, ELD enabled/and disabled, wont read the code) and bogs pretty bad/runs really rich, and needs to be help at 2500/3000rpms + to stay running.
Have you checked your coolant temp voltage?
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btw when i chipped my ECU i did NOT cut this resistor...should i have?
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi220.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd215%2Fshortbeard%2FDSC00820.jpg&hash=a77dffb9099de87bdf350272a4d8006f6ba4b3d5)
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Removing j12 is for full duplex mode.... Since your using crome I would remove it... Also make sure the connections are solid... a tiny connection can fuck shit up
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Tried it with a different ECU and it ran perfect...so must be my shit ECU. Thanks for the help anyways guys, ill post up if that was the problem for sure.
Keep ya posted.
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Reflow all of your solder joints and clean it up. Look at both sides especially the ground pins- they can dissipate a lot of heat and leave a shit solder joint.
If it worked great for a while it should be an easy fix
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Redid the ECU chipping and its running like she did before, great.
Thanks for all the help nonetheless.
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Post porn...
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and pictures of the setup...
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yeah will is slow and i never took any.
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Your welcome... :P
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OK, what the fuck...started doing it again, even after a solid night of just driving it.
I'm thinking either:
A) the ECU is just bad, even after having the soldering redone by a professional.
or
B) I have a bad MAP?
I did a little research and saw a thread where a kid had a similar problem, from how he described it, and it ended up being his TPS, any thoughts on that being the problem? (or experiences?, sexually)
Any input would be fantastic.
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1)
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Post porn...
and pictures of the setup...
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Teaser pictures till I make a build thread...when it runs well enough :?:.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi87.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk125%2FBumpinjcc%2FPicture019-1.jpg&hash=0fe0aac290f2b67cd25090cdf7d0e898f5398c6c)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi87.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk125%2FBumpinjcc%2FPicture020-1.jpg&hash=32e5b58a8e58d8d187315ec760cd66aa72a00c26)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi87.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk125%2FBumpinjcc%2FPicture021-1.jpg&hash=f76d289fa5d34d0bd758addc4cad4a799e7f4422)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi87.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk125%2FBumpinjcc%2FPicture022-1.jpg&hash=98603db2dd296d977da344d480a5091299662c07)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi87.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk125%2FBumpinjcc%2F0817092301-1.jpg&hash=dfb19018df9eac6aeb6524fdee05e4967f930ddf)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi87.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk125%2FBumpinjcc%2FPicture002-2.jpg&hash=c37ff378fd3e64b924d80bd23b427f82cb2d66dd)
So stealthy...you cant see it unless the bumper is off.. :noel:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi87.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk125%2FBumpinjcc%2F0806092307a-1.jpg&hash=67fcf6138eaad5d4cd3a35125cee4f2232d8ed1a)
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My Stealthmode endorsment; So stealthy...you can't see it.
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About time you made with some pix
Looks like a nice setup
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If that manifold were a woman, I'd pee in her butt.
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How do you think it turned that brow color?...Pee + Heat.
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So you can rev past ~3k rpm when it does this? I know a bad crank sensor in the dizzy can put it into codeless limp mode, injects fuel randomly (can't figure out TDC), and retards timing. I have a P28 with a bad board in it, does this no matter what.
Otherwise it's fairly indicitive of a cold solder joint - heats up a tad, then resistance goes through the roof. But if a pro redid the solder, I don't know. You very well could have a wire SOMEWHERE shorting out, but it very well could be the TPS. My friend diagnosed his turbo ka24 for a month before I mentioned how a bad Honda TPS can cause weird issues.
Last thing would be a strange vac leak, or fuel issue. Replace that fuel pulser thing (cap on the pass. side of fuel rail), that can cause issues, but mostly constant issues.
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So you can rev past ~3k rpm when it does this? I know a bad crank sensor in the dizzy can put it into codeless limp mode, injects fuel randomly (can't figure out TDC), and retards timing. I have a P28 with a bad board in it, does this no matter what.
OBD1 requires the TDC sensor for limp home mode.
Otherwise it's fairly indicitive of a cold solder joint - heats up a tad, then resistance goes through the roof. But if a pro redid the solder, I don't know.
I have a dismal rate of success at fixing bad chip jobs. Some ECUs are just fucked and have to be used as stockers, or thrown away.