:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: TTC on September 12, 2009, 06:07:07 PM
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I have heard the AEM uego is a bit slow and not as good for tuning, the innovate is to hit and miss for me. What else should I look into for a WB replacement?
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My Innovate works great
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Thing is I would really like to have a visual gauge and the AEM is so damned cheap, is it really that bad.
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Yes, it is really that bad.
Innovate if it's a permanent install, NGK AFX if it's a permanent install or as a portable unit for tuning multiple cars.
Sometimes you get suckered into the Innovate if you need serial logging. I really hate how they get fucked around on weak or odd charging systems, on some cars you spend more time resetting and free air calibrating them than you do tuning.
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My Innovate LM-1 (old shit) was CONSTANTLY having a problem with bad sensors. I had it for maybe 3 years and probably went through 6-8 O2 sensors. I'm running a UEGO now and it does seem to have a bit of a delay but the sensor lasts.
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It's also not accurate. I would never own an AEM wideband.
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i have an NGK AFX, it too is slightly delayed, and the range is not as broad as the innovatives (9-16), but how much more than that do you need? It is def. better than the AEM a friend of mine had, for the price i cant bitch, it does what i need it to.
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It's also not accurate. I would never own an AEM wideband.
accuracy is secondary. It's got bad-ass exchangeable face plates and auto-dimming.
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FUCK NOW I HAVE TO OWN ONE
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FUCK NOW I HAVE TO OWN ONE
To coherent, not enough rambling about things not related, but the caps still carried it.
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PLX M300
and the sensors you can buy at autozone for 56 bucks for replacements.
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PLX M300
and the sensors you can buy at autozone for 56 bucks for replacements.
Wtf, you can't just go make a post like that right after, how are we supposed to compare the difference... :P
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Widebuddy93 is really the classic AOLbot, with a smaller vocabulary.
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Widebuddy93 is really the classic AOLbot, with a smaller vocabulary.
LOL
i really like my PLX Sm-AFR. Bitch has not glitched or had any problems since the day of install and i have been through 3 other widebands which could not compare.
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http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm (http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm)
Thats what i use
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Funny Joseph
Yeah plx is my brand of choice. sensors at part store I believe is for the vw's. AND IF BLUNDELL USES THEM THEY GOT TO BE GOOD.
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http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovate-standalone-gauge-kit-lc1-blue-gauge-p-153.html (http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovate-standalone-gauge-kit-lc1-blue-gauge-p-153.html)
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LM-1 is working fine for me. Only problem is the power switch on the side. I always forget to set it off and I burn batteries...
I just stopped to put a battery in and its fine now ;)
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Funny Joseph
Yeah plx is my brand of choice. sensors at part store I believe is for the vw's. AND IF BLUNDELL USES THEM THEY GOT TO BE GOOD.
They all use that sensor, except for newer AEMs and PLX SM-AFRs.
They aren't the best unit. I've been through $1500 in widebands, and only my M-250 hasn't failled me. I like the Innovative's better... if only they weren't such unreliable whores.
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LC-1's are finiky if not wired up properly. By properly, I mean by wiring it in accordance with the directions included with the LC-1, and no deviation. For some reason, reading and following directions proves challenging for many, and this has often resulted in LC-1's loosing their calibration from unstable voltage. I do not know anybody who has wired up an LC-1 properly and had a problem with it. I know 100's who've not wired them up properly and had problems with them. Almost like a pattern.
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The PLX unit says it is bio diesel compatible, I wonder if it is also normal #2 diesel compatible... :-\ If that is the case I'm buying one Monday morning.
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LC-1's are finiky if not wired up properly. By properly, I mean by wiring it in accordance with the directions included with the LC-1, and no deviation. For some reason, reading and following directions proves challenging for many, and this has often resulted in LC-1's loosing their calibration from unstable voltage. I do not know anybody who has wired up an LC-1 properly and had a problem with it. I know 100's who've not wired them up properly and had problems with them. Almost like a pattern.
you mean like grounding your MS?
Ouch :P
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LC-1's are finiky if not wired up properly. By properly, I mean by wiring it in accordance with the directions included with the LC-1, and no deviation. For some reason, reading and following directions proves challenging for many, and this has often resulted in LC-1's loosing their calibration from unstable voltage. I do not know anybody who has wired up an LC-1 properly and had a problem with it. I know 100's who've not wired them up properly and had problems with them. Almost like a pattern.
you mean like grounding your MS?
Precisely.
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PLX is my choice of widebands.
-d112crzy
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Wired my LC-1 in, has done fine since day 1, till my exh fell off and I ripped the sensor lead. :?: Havent replaced it yet, my street tune was decent and I have been running it as it is.
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http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm (http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm)
Thats what i use
I use this also and am happy with it. Once and a while it will start spiking all over the show but after a shut down and reopen its ok. (i think it may have something to do with vista fail)
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I would buy an innovate but the god damned things are so twitchy. One day it works, one day it's fucked. What about the JAW unit? The plx unit seems nice.
So if im using this sensor with megasquirt what would I use when configurating since its not in the list? Is a linear wb from company A producing the same voltage output 0-5v for a given afr, is that the same as the same afr and voltage for company B? So if i get a PLX would i just set for instance innovate LC1 would use the same settings as a PLX-SM-AFR
#group LAMBDA_SENSOR "MS-I Lambda Sensor Type"
00048 #unset NARROW_BAND_EGO "Narrowband Sensor"
00049 #unset WB_1_0_LINEAR "Wideband in NB Emulator Mode, 0-1v 1.5-0.5 Lambda"
00050 #unset AEM_LINEAR "AEM Gauge AEM-30-42xx"
00051 #unset AEM_NON_LINEAR "AEM UEGO Controller AEM-30-230x"
00052 #unset DIYWB_NON_LINEAR "DIY-WB or Tech Edge non-linear output"
00053 #unset DYNOJET_LINEAR "DynoJet Wideband Commander"
00054 # set TECHEDGE_LINEAR "Tech Edge sensor giving 0-5V 9-19:1 AFR"
00055 #unset INNOVATE_1_2_LINEAR "Innovate sensor giving 1-2V 10-20:1 AFR"
00056 #unset INNOVATE_0_5_LINEAR "Innovate, PLX 0-5V 10-20:1 AFR"
00057 #unset INNOVATE_LC1_DEFAULT "Innovate LC-1 default, 0-5v = 0.5-1.5 lambda"
00058 #unset ZEITRONIX_NON_LINEAR "Zeitronix Non-linear WB"
00059 #unset WB_UNKNOWN "Wideband sensor but none of the above types"
00060 #endgroup
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LC-1's are finiky if not wired up properly. By properly, I mean by wiring it in accordance with the directions included with the LC-1, and no deviation. For some reason, reading and following directions proves challenging for many, and this has often resulted in LC-1's loosing their calibration from unstable voltage. I do not know anybody who has wired up an LC-1 properly and had a problem with it. I know 100's who've not wired them up properly and had problems with them. Almost like a pattern.
you mean like grounding your MS?
Precisely.
Actually, I tuned another MS yesterday. It had a nasty breakup at 4200-4300, sometimes you couldn't rev past it, but I eventually got it smoothed out by tweaking generic coil settings. You having EDIS, though - meh.
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IIRC as long as you ground the TEchedge at teh same spot that the MS is grounded at it should work fine. But my MS is grounded into the entire harness, so which do i pick lol. Ground at the block, intake mani, tranny ect.
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Block dummy.
Pick up a JAW, they're cheap and mine works great. You can wire it up to one of those faggy lightshow gauges if you want a display.
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You guys talking bad about innovate widebands are nutz. My lm-1 has lasted me years Ive only went through about 4 sensors. And one of those was stolen from me at a dyno the shop tuner did the old switcharoo on me with one of his dead sensors mine was new from the box so he saw his chance and took it.
Ive fried the outputs on my lm-1 twice both were my fault. Innovate fixed it for free the first time and I only had to pay $40 to get it fixed the last time. theyve got great support you can call Phillipe anytime and if you need advice on something.
If your running a wideband on multiple cars I'd suggest making a heatsink for it out of a piece of sheet metal it helps keep them consistant if youve got an open dp car with the o2 bung close to the turbo.
Ive you have voltage problems with an lm-1 then thats just letting you know the car has some shoddy wiring problem dirty battery terminal a weak alternator or bad grounds and all the above fix that stuff first then tune it.
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I've had my AEM UEGO now for about 2 and 1/2 years. Same sensor, no problems. Only issue I started having was when I installed a resonator. That slowed the response on the gauge a bit.
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i have a jaw and lc1, like both but like the price of the JAW alot better. 14point7 has alot of new widebands/ products
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I've had my AEM UEGO now for about 2 and 1/2 years. Same sensor, no problems. Only issue I started having was when I installed a resonator. That slowed the response on the gauge a bit.
Aside from the fact it's never been accurate in the first place, that does sound like a good experience.
i have a jaw and lc1, like both but like the price of the JAW alot better. 14point7 has alot of new widebands/ products
Hurr durr durr durr.
I have a JAW in a box that I never got around to using. I think it's time I got off of my ass.
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Ground is the block
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I thought that my wideband was dead since megatune or tunerstudio wasn't receiving a signal therefore not displaying any AFRs on the dashboard.
So i checked my WB:
its has power, element is heating
checked to make sure there was continuity from the WB 5v out to the MS, it was fine
Checked to make sure there was continuity from the pins on the db connector, was fine
checked the actual voltage, always fell between 0-5v, although it did show over 5v which was odd but maybe i wasn't paying attention.
So i checked MT, exhaust settings were set to WB, the TEchedge linear WB was configured.
Fucking fuck. i want a corvette.
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Well update:
I hooked up my techedge software and it worked fine go figure, so then i hook up Megatune and athe fucker works. I guess it was a MS thing, eitherway it fixed itself.
BUT, there is a slight variation in readings.
the megatune software reads slightly leaner than the actual logger software from the techedge.
for instance.
software 13.1 13.2 13.3
megatune: 13. 2 13.3 13.6
Both iirc are grounded at the block, or at least into my grounding kit i made. which goes block tranny body
How often do you guys recalibrate your widebands? What would lead be to want to do so?
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Ive been rocking my plx m300 for about 3+ years now. I love mine.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi64.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fh171%2Fiitru45%2Fcar%2520stuff%2FDSC00533.jpg&hash=0444fd6cef099ee4beb05a735a2dc2b8c964e64d)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi64.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fh171%2Fiitru45%2Fcar%2520stuff%2Fth_MOV00538.jpg&hash=ffb5cb96e9899ab77802432bf96e4bbd2ddf3b86) (http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h171/iitru45/car%20stuff/?action=view¤t=MOV00538.flv)
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fuck aem. Mine eats sensors like a whore all over widebody's little penis after he lays down some lines on the blue dash