:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: Stealthmode on October 05, 2009, 12:11:50 AM
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This mufuka is shitty.
Breaks up periodically between 7 and 8 grand.
Tried tuning the timing more on crome with no luck. Put hondata on it and the same thing. I've had 3 distributors on it, new rotors, caps, everything.
NGK 7's gapped at 20, then 19. Put the iridiums in it at 19.....nothing changes.
Put on an msd blaster ss ext. coil (not the canister kind). Car ran stronger, still with breakup.
On the dyno we played with the timing in that zone, had one run that had zero breakup. Let it all cool down, and the next run with NOTHING touched broke up.
Right now I'm debating getting the msd digital box as per JD's recommendation earlier, but I still can't figure out what the box does different than the ext. coil. Regardless, I'm not concerned with understanding it, I just want to know if it'll clear it up?
WTF else to check?? ???
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Sounds like your ignition input is shitty. I suspect poor factory wiring is part of the problem. Does the coil get +12V from the same wire as the ignitor? I'd try running a new wire from the battery through a relay to the ignition components.
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The new ext. coil is simply hooked up to the wiring inside the dist. from the stock coil. So, you're saying to check the voltage at the stock harness connector to make sure of 12v?
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plug wires. my car was doing tne same sit on the dyno. canged the nwires and it was fine
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Yeah, but you need to check the voltage at the ignitor and at the coil when it cuts out, to see if there's a correlation between low voltage and it cutting out. Be easier to just run a couple new wires and see if that fixes it. Nothing else it will surely help as factory wiring is probably puny.
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grounds? JDMers would ALWAYS add grounds to hp vehicles for this specific reason.
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plug wires. my car was doing tne same sit on the dyno. canged the nwires and it was fine
x10, i have cars on stock dizzys making 600+. The iridiums work great, if it were a spark energy problem you would have noticed a difference with them.
How old is your fuel filter???
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I've changed the wires as well. From brand new napa brand to ngk wires. Nothing.
I've got all new -6 fuel lines with one 100 micron aftermarket filter. I don't think fuel is the issue.
Be easier to just run a couple new wires and see if that fixes it. Nothing else it will surely help as factory wiring is probably puny.
That's what I'm about to do. Hopefully that fixes it because the next step is the digital box, and if I spend that kind of funds and it does nothing I'm gonna punch hotrex's baby mama.
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if I spend that kind of funds and it does nothing I'm gonna punch hotrex's baby mama.
hate crimes on tranvestites are becoming out of control.
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leakdown test? i've seen motors with blown headgaskets that didn't overheat, but misfired badly under higher load. new HG solved the problem. last ditch effort probably...
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Well, made a new harness for the distributor and hard wired it to the ecu. Once this bitch ass rain lets up I'll be able to test it out.
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eye on fuel pressure in that range? If its even droping a couple of psi it could fuck with the tune
power wires to the pump?
High boost right? You could have an injector going out or even some shit in the tip fucking up spray.
If you can graph the injector wave forms for all four injectors during brake up we can tell whats going on from there.
Also if you can graph the secondary ignition that could also tell us somthing aswell
if you look at the firing lines you can tell a lot!
You can also use a low amp current probe on the coil to check for even dwell time and a few other things
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Well, I took it out, and just like the external coil it seems to be running stronger up top, but still breaking up. My rev limiter is also much more defined now. ??? The limiter sounds like anti-lag.
I think I may focus on the fuel side of things. I've been told that I'm about at the end with 1 walbro, 1000cc, E85, and 402hp. An inline helper is what was suggested, I've just got to locate one and strap that on. It can't hurt, and it can't cost that much either. (I hope)
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If you want a cheap booster pump, pick up a bosch 044, off a CIS VW.
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seen higher dyno numbers on E85 and a walbro/1000s.
you have stock wiring to the pump?!?! run some relay 10g off the battery to the pump.
which walbro do you have? real one? 255 or 255hp?
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Well, made a new harness for the distributor and hard wired it to the ecu. Once this bitch ass rain lets up I'll be able to test it out.
By hard wired it to the ECU, do you mean you ran a couple new heavy gauge fused wires through a relay or switch so that the ignitor and coil get solid clean power?
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If you want a cheap booster pump, pick up a bosch 044, off a CIS VW.
+1 these work great.
which walbro do you have? real one? 255 or 255hp?
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How old is your fuel filter???
x10
I didnt realize your were on e85, i've got a bunch of customers running it, and ALL of them have had to change the fuel filter out twice. One of the cars actually started to do the exact same thing as yours, it would surge/buck, felt like an ignition issue.
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If he suspects it's a fuel supply issue, he could simply Tee in a gauge and watch it on the dyno.
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If you want a cheap booster pump, pick up a bosch 044, off a CIS VW.
+1 these work great.
which walbro do you have? real one? 255 or 255hp?
what kind of vw is that?
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If you want a cheap booster pump, pick up a bosch 044, off a CIS VW.
+1 these work great.
which walbro do you have? real one? 255 or 255hp?
what kind of vw is that?
Rabbit, Jetta, Golf's, Passats, Early 8v's anything with a 16v, ect...
Edit: Some volovo's, audi's, ect...
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The new dist. harness was simply made using a cut up harness. All the same thickness wires as stock, but known to be run well. My walbro is the 255lph hp.
I originally had the fuel pump hard wired to the battery with thicker wires through a relay, but in the early stages of getting it started we had wire issues and I replaced everything with a different stock harness. I still have the relay setup, so I'll try that too.
My fuel filter is an inline aftermarket job under the car with AN fittings on it, so it won't be difficult to take that off and reverse clean it. I'll do that too.
My fuel rail has a gauge on it, but I never paid attention to it on the dyno.
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i think u need to feed ur old lady some cheap alcohol and have her spray pussy juice into your engine bay... last ditch effort
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the ricer says check fuel press :yes:
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My fuel filter is an inline aftermarket job under the car with AN fittings on it, so it won't be difficult to take that off and reverse clean it. I'll do that too.
My fuel rail has a gauge on it, but I never paid attention to it on the dyno.
pull it out and see how well you can blow through it, you should be able to blow through it with w/o restriction, I wouldn't fuck with trying to clean it, filters for those things are like 15 bucks.
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400hp on e85 is a fuel pump trying to feed 800hp on a gas engine
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400hp on e85 is a fuel pump trying to feed 800hp on a gas engine
its more like 520hp
from the many e85 cars i've ive tuned, takes ~30% more fuel for e85, ~40% more for e98
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pull it out and see how well you can blow through it, you should be able to blow through it with w/o restriction, I wouldn't fuck with trying to clean it, filters for those things are like 15 bucks.
This filter is 100 micron, and from looking through it when I got it, it looks like just a screen, so it should be easy to clean it.
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run a direct 10g wire off the battery (fused) relayed from the stock wiring, along with a solid ground. ill bet that is the issue.
also the Bosch 044 pump did NOT come stock on a VW...
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also the Bosch 044 pump did NOT come stock on a VW...
Please enlighten us to what is stock on a CIS vw then?
The ones I have taken off magically seem to support 700hp...
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also the Bosch 044 pump did NOT come stock on a VW...
Please enlighten us to what is stock on a CIS vw then?
The ones I have taken off magically seem to support 700hp...
thats not what this post is about. but it is not the same pump. not saying it wont make magic 700hp numbers, but thats not the part number or same pump. i have used one and have not doubts it is capable of shitloads of power...
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Once I can swith it out of Paint Mode tomorrow afternoon, I'll be getting this shit all situated for Saturday. I'll let you know what kind of times I can crack off this time.
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I was having issues about a month ago. I only run my high boost tune for the track, otherwise, its on the WG spring for daily duty. When I went to put in the high boost tune from June, it was breaking up and bucking. But mine was more so bucking all over the place.
We ended up just adding 10% everywhere but idle, and it cleaned the fuck up, and was scootin again. Conclusion/theory we came to, was the winter mixture. With cold starts being difficult on ethanol, they change the mixture to 70% during winter, rather than 85%. We automatically thought that the extra gasoline would, at worst, just make the car run pig rich, since gasoline is more efficient. Now were thinking I might have been running out of octane, causing it to detonate.
I cant say for sure, but mine ran a LOT cleaner. So maybe its worth a shot?
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I DO need to talk to the gas station on what/when the changes happen. Good reminder, however the car has been doing this up top since I got it out.
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Well, I took it out, and just like the external coil it seems to be running stronger up top, but still breaking up. My rev limiter is also much more defined now. ??? The limiter sounds like anti-lag.
I think I may focus on the fuel side of things. I've been told that I'm about at the end with 1 walbro, 1000cc, E85, and 402hp. An inline helper is what was suggested, I've just got to locate one and strap that on. It can't hurt, and it can't cost that much either. (I hope)
What does your air fuel look like when it breaks up? Timing? Have any datalogs?
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dwell
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What does your air fuel look like when it breaks up?
Any leet tunar boi would know that it looks like ass, since its a misfire, and will probably not tell you anything. Dumbshit. Why even ask this question? You think its gonna make you look smarter to appear to post tech?
An intelligent person would have asked for datalogs, to look at the air/fuel BEFORE the breakup.
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hondata cures breakup and failed marriages. get yours today!
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can you get a secondary ignition graph?
it would let you know if it was a lean breakup.
it would tell you if the coil was doing enuff
it would tell you if it was firing at the wrong time
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I've been pretty busy with work and shit, so I haven't done the pump wiring/etc. but I HAVE been driving it just every minute I get a chance. Little bursts in gears is more my style. I can lay off the freeway blasts for the most part.
Once I get the wiring done I'll update this.
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You check the fuel filter??
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the answer to this prob is caked to ur wifes labia
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the answer to this prob is caked to ur wifes labia
how is the mailman's semen relevant here?
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dwell
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its not the mailman......its frank vest
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Steve, I've been ignoring this thread for some time. I decided this evening to read it, and let you know it's turned out exactly how I thought it would - worst thread ever, short of that one in the moderator forum.
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dwell
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not sure if you checked it.............. fucking do it bitch. crank that shit up
more fire = moar better
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excuse my ignorance, but how do you increase spark dwell time?
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There are tables to do so in eCtune, possibly Neptune, and 98% of standalones.
You don't crank dwell blindly. The coil has to have time to charge, discharge, and rest. It's something best done with a scope, but I've had good results out of Supras w/ AEMs by taking out dwell until the misfiring goes away. I've had some borderline misfires clean up by fiddling dwell, but it doesn't introduce any extra power into the coil.
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this thread wreaks of scrot
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to increase or decrease dwell would be to adjust the voltage/amps into the coil?
A coil shold need a certain amount of time to charge up (dwell time)
I cant see how the ecu would effect this?
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in for tech
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seems you are dodging the cure for your breakup.
try using a ignition amplifier... msd digital, we were trying tune my friend's last month on e85 for 20 psi single cam 50 trim turbo, it keep breaking up around 6500 rpm, we messed with the plug gap no fix,put some ngk 9 plugs in no fix. since I and my other friend both use msd with no issues we suggest trying one I so happen to have an extra msd box (the analog sci) we wired it up and bam out break up problem was gone.