:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: 1fasthf on October 25, 2009, 08:53:23 PM
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well guys i recently recieved a 88HF rolling shell.
i installed a d16z6 w/ chipped p28
xenocron conv harness
d16z6 dist
HF harness
i was havin main relay problems but found it to be the number 14 fuse which is something about alternator i think
well i fixed that i left the key on for a sec to make sure everything was good and they i started to smell electrical burning
after panickin seein smoke under the hood i turn key off and pop hood.
it was comming from the ELD it was very hot
so i try it again, doesnt smoke or doesnt get hot anymore
but i have a hardstarting problem now.. i cant seem to have enough juice to turn the car over with. i can even put jumpers on it w/ another car and it still goes one or two revolutions then click click click
all grounds seem good also
think it has something to do w/ the smoking eld? what would cause the eld to start getting so hot?
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this is the first time trying to start the motor also.. so i cant say the battery problem happend after the eld problem but what would cause this?
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ELD is a bullshit sensor that does nothing. It doesn't handle, much less inhibit the flow of, large amperages.
Check your ground system.
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hmm i checked all grounds got a good ground at the tstat,trans, and valve cover! any others i should know about??
im gettin a code 20 (obvisously) but all the searches i have done about ELD there cars still start fine...
i have tried misc batteries while jumping the car and still not enought to start it...
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hmm i checked all grounds got a good ground at the tstat,trans, and valve cover! any others i should know about??
There is no such thing as a ground at. The block is ground, and everything is tied to it with heavy gauge cable that goes between, and that includes the battery.
im gettin a code 20 (obvisously) but all the searches i have done about ELD there cars still start fine...
Yeah. ELD = power, ground, and 0-5v out to the ECU, and the ECU takes that voltage abd does absolutely nothing with it. But, if some circuit sees it as a path to ground because your grounds suck then it gets fried. It's like being inbetween the cast of the Biggest losers and a twinkie - you're fucked.
i have tried misc batteries while jumping the car and still not enought to start it...
Because you can't get those battery's power to the starter. Grounds, or power distribution. Just go ahead and connect the jumper cables to the starter, and it will work when you try it. Then think real hard about what wires supply power to the starter and holy shit you have your fix.
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awsome thanks JD i was hoping u would chime in!
would u recomend replacing the underhood fuse box? to get a new ELD?
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I bought my crx for $500 because it had bad grounds and wouldn't start.
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awsome thanks JD i was hoping u would chime in!
would u recomend replacing the underhood fuse box? to get a new ELD?
No. I'd just fix the car so it runs. Worry about the ELD when resale time comes.
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kickass thanks guys!!
guess its time to revise my grounds and see what happens
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Ran into the same cel 20 the other day on the race car. had a hot wire not secured. :-[
still throws the cel on the chp'd p28, but not on the p72.
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hmm i checked all grounds got a good ground at the tstat,trans, and valve cover! any others i should know about??
im gettin a code 20 (obvisously) but all the searches i have done about ELD there cars still start fine...
i have tried misc batteries while jumping the car and still not enought to start it...
Learn how to test Voltage drop, And you will be able to figure out why the starter isnt getting power and where you loost all your power.
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whats the proper way to do a votage drop test in my situation? i have a multimeter and what not just no clue how to do that.
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GOT IT! it turns over normal now.. just ran 4gauge grounds all over.
K,... now after gettting it to turn over i went on to other things.. im not receiving spark now... i wired the obd0 plug onto the z6 dizzy.. but i think i got the two white wires mixed up..
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Yeah, that'll do it. Good work, n00b. You're still green and REALLY DESERVE to have your panties flamed off of you, but since you actually did work instead of whined on a forum like a faggot I'll help you some more.
Honduh ignition is based off of:
1) CKP/CYP/TDC signals wired correctly and in the correct polarity. They can be wired incorrectly and you'll still get spark, but it won't always fire smoothly enough to run, or it will throw CKP/CYP/TDC codes when the distributor and it's sensors are fine.
2) Functioning ECU that sees these signals and outputs an IGO signal to control the ignitor. If your CEL cycles, and you can throw codes, 99.9% the ECU is good. Yours sure seems to be fine.
3) 12V power on the black/yel wire going into the 2P plug. This powers the coil, ignitor. Both are grounded through the dist housing. If the ignitor sees the IGO signal from the ECU - and it's in good shape - it will both fire the coil and generate a signal on the tach signal wire, which is the blue wire in the 2P connector. If you have a working tach, the ignitor is 99% likely good... sometimes the ignitor doesn't drive the tach because it's "bad" but the part of it that fires the coil still works.
4) Lack of power or bad coil will prevent fire if everything else is in good shape.
Can you post some porn in GD for me and the rest of the OGs? We'd really appreciate it.
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awsome JD thanks Pr0n commin as soon as the bitch leaves
JD what can i use for my vtec pressure switch plug?? i dont have the plug and pigtail to wire the pressure switch, i heard a AC plug was the same, but i can find it.... should i just have my tuner disable it and the ELD?