:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: Doug on October 28, 2009, 12:14:46 AM
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Well my 99 Si has developed an annoying ass habit of quitting when it's cold out. As long as it's warm it runs fine. When it's probably 50* or below I get a few miles down the road and the damn thing quits. If I leave it in gear it has no power and the RPM's just drop till dies or if you take it out of gear dies immediately. Won't start for anything. Will have to sit there 5-10 min then it starts up fine again. Only car I have ever had do this was an old carb'd car, so I don't know what would cause a newer car to be so temperamental to cold weather. Any ideas?
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I would look for VAC leaks and check the throttle stop screw. What have you done to the engine? Have you try cleaning out your IACV?
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Have you try cleaning out your IACV?
Id try this, i havnt done it in 4 or so yeas but IIRC there is a "screw" or so type device you can use yo adjust your idle. My old hatch out of nowhere started idling at 3k when it was cold, took it apart and adjusted the "screw" and i lowered it to about 1500 rpm at cold startup.
adjust it too much and i beleive it will idle liike shit, either too low, or wayy to high
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start by checkin the coil/igniter, swap each out one by one if you got some spares
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start by checkin the coil/igniter, swap each out one by one if you got some spares
See, This is how you fit in here, offer a little tech and post porn. Failed 15 second street races and train videos are not the answer.
Now bring the rest of your posts up to speed by indulging them with porn and pics of you moms snatch. NOW.
To the OP, when it wont start have you checked to see if it is still getting spark? That would be the first place I would look, then the ECT.
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start by checkin the coil/igniter, swap each out one by one if you got some spares
See, This is how you fit in here, offer a little tech and post porn. Failed 15 second street races and train videos are not the answer.
Now bring the rest of your posts up to speed by indulging them with porn and pics of you moms snatch. NOW.
To the OP, when it wont start have you checked to see if it is still getting spark? That would be the first place I would look, then the ECT.
ECT was my first thought.
If it does start and you keep you foot in it a bit 'till it warms up then idle w/o any problems then yeah ECT.
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cel's?
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cel's?
No cels at all
start by checkin the coil/igniter, swap each out one by one if you got some spares
Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil are all new.
I read somewhere can be a sign of a fuel filter, but just doesn't seem right. However I have noticed this nice purple JDM bling bling supa fast FPR on there. Could it be that the thing is applying too much fuel when it's cold and not warmed up all the way? Can see it here
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi847.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fab36%2Fnacvicsi%2FEM1motor.jpg&hash=5d28175290af3818557b61bcbf64656b7b692bcb)
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Those FPR's are the worst pieces of shit ever manufactured from china, ever. Immediately remove and replace with a big exit b-series. I doubt it is your problem, but none the less that thing is a piece of shit and is definitely not helping.
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What are big exit b-series fpr's found on?
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I have found the 1st gen b16a and 90-93 integras had the large side exit fpr's
Even the newer b series fpr's have a larger exit than d series units.
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Anyone have one they want to trade for a rare JDM one? :-*
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10 bucks and Ill send you a stock b series one
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My old rex did this ended up bien the iacv I believe, it was a lot of ounces ago
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Would the IACV really cause the car to die while driving?
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Would the IACV really cause the car to die while driving?
It could, since it is effectively a vac leak when its fucked.
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Would the IACV really cause the car to die while driving?
High idle, or super low idle/stall. It'd do it consistently, though.
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Does it smell rich? A bad ECT sensor will flood out a car. Maybe that's why you have to wait 5 - 10 mins before it starts up again? After it dies, pull a plug and see if it has fuel on it.
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A bad (low reading) ECT will result in pig rich idle when warm. When cold the rich mixture flies because fall out in the manifold is more pronounced.
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A bad (low reading) ECT will result in pig rich idle when warm. When cold the rich mixture flies because fall out in the manifold is more pronounced.
I'm not sure I follow your second statement. We had a Chevy 1500 with a ECT that read avg of 40 degrees lower than actual temp. On cold morning, it read so low that it completely flooded out the engine because it would read temp in the single digits and adjusted fuel accordingly. The warmer the temp the less fuel it would dump and even though it idled rich, it wasn't rich enough to flood it out completely.