:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: funtimes on October 28, 2009, 10:01:48 AM
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So I bought this ecu for my car and while looking at pictures I can't tell if it in fact is a P28 ECU. I am not near the ECU right now (this weekend I will be) but by looking at these pictures can you tell me if it is a P28.
What makes me think it isn't the P28 is that there is no R54 pin out under J1.
Here is some pictures.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi204.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fbb104%2Fcarphotos_photos%2FIMG00005-20091028-0833.jpg&hash=461e663f64d9d5ea970853f369d96307c07fc459)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi204.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fbb104%2Fcarphotos_photos%2FIMG00006-20091028-0833.jpg&hash=59537d08c21b34b781fd888a75d7883d28f96c38)
Thanks for your help
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Why don't you look at the sticker on the side of the ECU with the model?
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What does the sticker say on the side of the casing? :?:
What is the board ID #?
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The sticker is peeled off for some reason. And the ECU is NOT in my possession right now. I was thinking that if there isn't the R54 pin that means it is some different ECU.
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The sticker is peeled off for some reason. And the ECU is NOT in my possession right now. I was thinking that if there isn't the R54 pin that means it is some different ECU.
yeah, hopefully for a P72?
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I don't know what it is, but it's not a PR4.
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Looks like a 02D01980-1500 board or a P75/P72?
you need a pic of the top of the board on the right side where the silkscreen labels the board instead of the bottom of the board right side where it was chipped. Stickers can be removed or swapped, look at the label on the board itself.
Do you remember if it had a daughter board? The P72's have a knock board i believe
Edit: I'd guess you have a non-vtec 02D01980-1500 like a p75 or something do to R115/R116 being unpopulated.
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Looks like a 02D01980-1500 board or a P75/P72?
you need a pic of the top of the board on the right side where the silkscreen labels the board instead of the bottom of the board right side where it was chipped. Stickers can be removed or swapped, look at the label on the board itself.
Do you remember if it had a daughter board? The P72's have a knock board i believe
Edit: I'd guess you have a non-vtec 02D01980-1500 like a p75 or something do to R115/R116 being unpopulated.
Thanks for your reply
Ill see if I could get my buddy to snap a pic of it for me. If it is in fact the non vtec ecu it will be worthless to me correct? I have a 1995 civic d series built motor.
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Thanks for your reply
Ill see if I could get my buddy to snap a pic of it for me. If it is in fact the non vtec ecu it will be worthless to me correct? I have a 1995 civic d series built motor.
d series means nothing some have vtec some don't
get a pic of the whole ecu so you can see if vtec is populated
I have a feeling it will be useless to you either way
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Looks like a P75. Someone pulled the sticker because its modified. Get a pic of the other side to see if the VTEC components are installed.
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Looks like a P75. Someone pulled the sticker because its modified. Get a pic of the other side to see if the VTEC components are installed.
Agreed, but does everybody forget about the sticker on the ECM connectors as well?
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P75 ecus are the only ones i know of that dont have R54. Also P72 ecu will have the knock board witch this one doesnt. Did you also notice J1 isnt jumped so you will not be running whats burnt on that chip (if the chip is burnt at all). also C51 and 52 are not there. wonder if J12 is even cut???
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Correct.
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P75 ecus are the only ones i know of that dont have R54. Also P72 ecu will have the knock board witch this one doesnt. Did you also notice J1 isnt jumped so you will not be running whats burnt on that chip (if the chip is burnt at all). also C51 and 52 are not there. wonder if J12 is even cut???
I will get pictures tonight of everything. I was told by someone that in the bottom left of that picture it shows the 4 pin connector and they said that is for the hondata to be plugged to. does this seem right?
Thanks
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I do not know about Hondata but that is for data-logging. :?:
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We don't speak Hondata on this forum, sorry.
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c51/52 are not needed they are optional I have never used them and have chipped 100+ ecu's with no problems
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Litterature says it's better to put them :P
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A 274 is a US P75
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shitty. Thanks for all the replies. So is this ECU not usable for me? (Sorry im new and trying to learn this shit).
I will do some reading about this ECU but is there anyone that can link me to a way i can make this work for my car or explain it?
Thanks
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shitty. Thanks for all the replies. So is this ECU not usable for me? (Sorry im new and trying to learn this shit).
I will do some reading about this ECU but is there anyone that can link me to a way i can make this work for my car or explain it?
Thanks
pgmfi.org is all you need. ;D
BTW where is your credentials I have not seen any pr0n or intro thread from you. :?:
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It just needs a few more things to be a P28. Need more pictures. That ECU can work for you.
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yup whoever did it left out j1 one too so it will currently run stock
There are numerous people here who can add the vtec conversion/j1 etc to make it work just like a p28
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi204.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fbb104%2Fcarphotos_photos%2FIMG00007-20091029-0837.jpg&hash=ac25058c2758bda7bf4c9591c632a1750bb50eda)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi204.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fbb104%2Fcarphotos_photos%2FIMG00008-20091029-0838.jpg&hash=eda5f3f7b5dc53adfd64728d4ba007383ded0029)
Here is the model # in the top right
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi204.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fbb104%2Fcarphotos_photos%2FIMG00009-20091029-0838.jpg&hash=b3a95bb2cc88e21f2c059288771689fd6d4db0b2)
Ok here is the pictures of my ECU. So it looks like all I have to do is solder in my two capacitors to c51 and c52. Then jump J1.
I also bought C3 AMD AM29F040B chip so I could get a tune burned for me.
From my research I think i should be all set correct?
Thanks again for everyones help.
shitty. Thanks for all the replies. So is this ECU not usable for me? (Sorry im new and trying to learn this shit).
I will do some reading about this ECU but is there anyone that can link me to a way i can make this work for my car or explain it?
Thanks
pgmfi.org is all you need. ;D
BTW where is your credentials I have not seen any pr0n or intro thread from you. :?:
when I get back home ill post some up for you hahaha
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J10. R67 missing, most likely other pieces. VTEC will not work.
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Looks like you need to remove
J12
R136
R138
R136 & 8 being removed will help the wideband signal in data logging.
Add
A jumper to J1
C51 & C52
It also looks like Vtec hasnt been added so if you need to run this on a vtec motor buy a vtec kit for 1980 board.
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wow so i need that much more crap? Is it just easier to get a p28?
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If you can get a p28 for <$30 yeah
If not just fix what you have.
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...R136 & 8 being removed will help the wideband signal in data logging....
What? I guess I am out of the loop. :-\
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...R136 & 8 being removed will help the wideband signal in data logging....
What? I guess I am out of the loop. :-\
yeah me too.
What is this all about? some info please.
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When i compare this picture from xencron.com with the how to on wiring up vtec it looks like I have all the pieces already soldered in....
check out this picture Unlinked for apex
when compared I can see everything is installed from the kit. So I think it does have vtec wired in.
What do you guys think?
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When i compare this picture from xencron.com with the how to on wiring up vtec it looks like I have all the pieces already soldered in....
check out this picture http://www.xenocron.com/install/1980.htm (http://www.xenocron.com/install/1980.htm)
when compared I can see everything is installed from the kit. So I think it does have vtec wired in.
What do you guys think?
look here noob.. you never made an intro. no pics of your girlfriend and you linked to a site that we dont approve of. imma lock this shit up
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When i compare this picture from xencron.com with the how to on wiring up vtec it looks like I have all the pieces already soldered in....
check out this picture http://www.xenocron.com/install/1980.htm (http://www.xenocron.com/install/1980.htm)
when compared I can see everything is installed from the kit. So I think it does have vtec wired in.
What do you guys think?
look here noob.. you never made an intro. no pics of your girlfriend and you linked to a site that we dont approve of. imma lock this shit up
unlinked for you now. Now can you point me in the right direction?
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pgmfi.org is all you need. ;D
BTW where is your credentials I have not seen any pr0n or intro thread from you. :?:
you were already given great advice after a surprising amount of spoon feeding for a noob. Looks like your luck ran out
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When i compare this picture from xencron.com with the how to on wiring up vtec it looks like I have all the pieces already soldered in....
check out this picture Unlinked for apex
when compared I can see everything is installed from the kit. So I think it does have vtec wired in.
What do you guys think?
Everything is very much not soldered in. Ignore the writeup, go to pgmfi.org as I instructed you.
Also, Mark Lamond's O2 sensor circuit modification is seven years old now, guys, don't question Francis. What you're asking is the same level as OP's questions... you have a text book in front of you, the original DIY writeup, USE IT. If you don't understand something come back here and you'll get clarification.
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...Also, Mark Lamond's O2 sensor circuit modification is seven years old now, guys, don't question Francis. What you're asking is the same level as OP's questions... you have a text book in front of you, the original DIY writeup, USE IT. If you don't understand something come back here and you'll get clarification.
The 0-5 V mod for the O2 input? If so, then from what I recall, it was a little more than just removing a couple of resisters, hence my confusion.
I just looked though the documentation on both Mark's page and the PGMFI Wiki. Neither mention removing R136 and R138 in regards to this modification. Granted the P72/P75 board layout is a bit different than the P30 etc.
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I have always seen to improve wideband signal remove R136 and R138. i do this on all ecu's i have chipped never had a wideband issue.
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turkey dinner pics
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I also bought C3 AMD AM29F040B chip so I could get a tune burned for me.
From my research I think i should be all set correct?
Thanks again for everyones help.
Nobody noticed that? That chip won't work w/o an adapter. It's a 32-pin, 4mbit chip. The ecu socket is only 28-pin. You can, however, make a 16-timer adapter explained in a write-up I made. It would give you 16 individual tunes if so needed. Otherwise get a 28-pin eeprom with 256k or 512k memory such as http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=39 (http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=39)
FYI practically all obd1 ecu's that can be used by ectune/homodata/etc can be made into another, like a p05/p06 upgraded to p28. A p75 can have vtec added to it, and most can also get egr and iab outputs (ectune only). All besides p72 can have another output added through ectune for autotrans lockup, besides p72. Adding a knock board isn't an option, however it's basicly useless. The p30 and p72 use it, and p72 also has IAB circuitry.
With a program like ectune, the order of usefulness IMO: p28/p30/p06/p75/p05, then p72. The others will sometimes fetch a premium since they're rare/jdm.
I can't comment on the wideband/resistor stuff, I tune with an LC-1 serial stream, and my daily WB (techedge) is only for monitoring raw AFR's. I do use narrowband sim to target 15:1 for cruising, but seems to work fine.