:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: HiProfile on March 14, 2009, 05:27:33 PM
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NO, this is not some overpriced Hondata shit!
First you have to get one of the tiny sensors, nipples are always prefered! This one is a 3bar, MPXH6300ACT1 (same as the -U, different package).
Then you RIP your stock sensor apart! Actually, be gental. Drill/grind out the brass things in the screw holes, then pop the case halves apart (Honda used a little glue). I now use a reamer/countersink on the bottom of the rivets to pop their heads off.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg17.imageshack.us%2Fimg17%2F6197%2Fimage01v.jpg&hash=d2a04f033f7b46f62020ed418741e7619fe1c79c)
Bust out the dremel tool and go to town. Grind it down until you hit the plastic & metal. I also grind the little round lip around the hole on the slim case half, this lets the sensor fit in perfectly. I now use a 1/2" end mill to drill 6 spots - the 4 around the nipple are 3/16" below the case lip, the 2 near the connector are just about 1/4" - enough to expose the brass pads you'll solder to.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg16.imageshack.us%2Fimg16%2F3802%2Fimage02r.jpg&hash=6c25d63a119b50fce696a4d765022b4f8f1f2965)
Gentally cut the long contacts - a razor knife will work, its just copper. Get your nog-o-meter to test that the 3 tabs by the connector no longer connect to the stock sensor element. Then check to see what contact goes to what. BTW if you look into the connector spot at the pins, its stamped "V___G___O". They are voltage-in, ground, and output voltage, respectively.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg15.imageshack.us%2Fimg15%2F8640%2Fimage03v.jpg&hash=0a59fa784ee1ea058924f00e3e9cc35cf3f994df)
Then take your Ver-nog Calinog to measure the port width. You'll be enlarging the stock case's hole a bit. Mine was .119", which is a #31 drill bit.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg14.imageshack.us%2Fimg14%2F2310%2Fimage04pxt.jpg&hash=99596136ab743da8e1e533d027327c61e90dcb35)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg13.imageshack.us%2Fimg13%2F467%2Fimage05v.jpg&hash=dd4f1f20c4b162444362ee486245c1099589f780)
Check to see it sits in nicely. It should be snug; if it's tight you can port it a bit, if its loose - well, hope your permatex fills it up.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg12.imageshack.us%2Fimg12%2F4167%2Fimage06n.jpg&hash=bf1aa2262b3f13c8ceaf66e39f0d483e11577cad)
Wire it up appropriately. I think this is MadMax's diagram; if the author wants to be a dick, lmk so I can make a better one. V=Vs, G=Gnd, O=Vout
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg14.imageshack.us%2Fimg14%2F5831%2F3barinstallmotorolafree.jpg&hash=c6fd76bbb1e16875ab14321a7b43d6e86796c4a6)
Use some Perma-nogx Gray or similar to seal it up. DO NOT get any near or into the port - that's an easy FAIL waiting to happen. Then place a glob below it so you don't get it leaking into the case (pops out of hole). Its better that way. Just test fit it all a few times before you even crack that tube of silicone. I use permatex black now. I splooge a bit around it & on the soldered connections afterwards, then put a huge lump below the sensor.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg11.imageshack.us%2Fimg11%2F303%2Fimage07p.jpg&hash=4dcfaeb2496dbf56c2094daa3123f84ddf75c2a9)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg10.imageshack.us%2Fimg10%2F3574%2Fimage08t.jpg&hash=c8891f61a8fd2d4baa5d34e0fdd511001adf3228)
Clamp it in a vise for a few hours to let the permatex set, then you can rivet it together. I used a 7/32" aluminum tube I found (my make-shift crackpipe), but this requires the steel inserts that surrounded the original rivets. A 9/32" pipe will work if you lost the inserts. 3/8" of an inch is the perfect length. The key is to flare the edges just right (rolling edges with a center punch), then use a bolt & nuts to get them secured tight. It's okay to skip this step, but at least put the 7/32" tubes in there. The screws will keep the sensor clamped just fine.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg18.imageshack.us%2Fimg18%2F7236%2Fimage09i.jpg&hash=026da2d596e9ec852b2bbd3aeb959f36db51a1ab)
Completed. 3bar for ~29psi on the left, 1.75bar for ~11psi on the right. You can find complete 56mm D16 TB's for under $30, and the stock sensors for under $5 if you shop right. You can order the 2.5/3/4 bar sensors from digikey for around $16 to your door in most cases.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg18.imageshack.us%2Fimg18%2F9082%2Fimage10wkg.jpg&hash=d1053353fea66552197cc074063a4209ac02566b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg690.imageshack.us%2Fimg690%2F3316%2Fmapsensors.jpg&hash=ce2f3d85951d87d1279d600220c597ce2bb18b82)
Part Numbers and links:
(Mouser.com is usually cheaper)
(the P/N suffix 6T1 or 6U denotes how it's wrapped up and DOES NOT MATTER)
2.5 Bar:
Part # MPXH6250AC
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPXH6250AC6U/MPXH6250AC6U-ND/951825 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPXH6250AC6U/MPXH6250AC6U-ND/951825)
3 bar
Part # MPXH6300AC
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPXH6300AC6U/MPXH6300AC6U-ND/951827 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPXH6300AC6U/MPXH6300AC6U-ND/951827)
4 bar
Part # MPXH6400AC
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPXH6400AC6U/MPXH6400AC6U-ND/1168412 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPXH6400AC6U/MPXH6400AC6U-ND/1168412)
The sensor values:
2.5bar:
min = 0.204 @ 20 kPa (.2bar)
max = 4.896 @ 250 kPa (2.5bar)
"koeo" voltage = 1.86v (calculated)
3bar:
min = 0.306 @ 20 kPa (.2bar)
max = 4.912 @ 304 kPa (3bar)
"koeo" voltage = 1.63v (calculated)
4bar:
min = 0.200 @ 20 kPa (.2bar)
max = 4.800 @ 400 kPa (4bar)
"koeo" voltage = 1.19v (calculated)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimageshack.us%2Fa%2Fimg143%2F6461%2Fnewmanifold01cx3.jpg&hash=127259c78001f088264a7a1422d1352da4be2686)
ATM my coupe is rockin a 2.5bar in the stock housing, can you tell?? FYI if anyone has noticed, D's usually have the xxx-2500 numbers on the sensors, B's xxx-3000's, and I've seen some preludes with a xxx-4220 number. I like to use that to denote if a case has a 2.5/3/4 bar in it, although a small engraving below the connector never hurts.
At the time of this writing, a few people have hit 300's with the sensors I've made, one has made 430 or so, another in the low 500's. If they see this, they'll chime in.
VERY big thanks to Madmax who did the first write-up (I think, dun want to go over there), and honorable mention to the Grand Intraweb Wizard himself, Joseph Davis. He claims to have done this back in the 'old days'. Not that I don't believe him... ;)
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I am going do this you may have just saved me a bundle thanks. ;D :yes:
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best fucking map sensor hybrid ever!
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Better pics this time around for sure. This needs to be stickied.
And just to add to the tech and make it a little easier for some of the lazy peeps, here are the digi-key part numbers.
2.5 bar
Part # MPX4250AP-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPX4250AP-ND (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPX4250AP-ND)
3 bar
Part # MPXH6300AC6U-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPXH6300AC6U-ND (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPXH6300AC6U-ND)
4 bar
Part # MPXH6400AC6T1CT-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPXH6400AC6T1CT-ND (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPXH6400AC6T1CT-ND)
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Good idea with those links. Here's the 2.5bar I have in my coupe:
MPXH6250AC6U-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPXH6250AC6U-ND (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPXH6250AC6U-ND)
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ballin
nice fucking work on this
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It nice see the tech brought here from the old site.
And fuck that nigger Xenocron who tried to bury my original thread on HMT claiming he clicked the wrong buttons or some gay shit.
Jeff put a stop to it real quick.
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This is good stuff :)
Thanks
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It nice see the tech brought here from the old site.
And fuck that nigger Xenocron who tried to bury my original thread on HMT claiming he clicked the wrong buttons or some gay shit.
Jeff put a stop to it real quick.
What? Details.
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It nice see the tech brought here from the old site.
And fuck that nigger Xenocron who tried to bury my original thread on HMT claiming he clicked the wrong buttons or some gay shit.
Jeff put a stop to it real quick.
What? Details.
Oh ya, his faggotism runs deep.
Only hours after creating the thread and a few people posted, the thread was locked and the freescale part #'s were deleted. WTF?
Chris PM'd me saying I needed to call him. WTF. So I called him and he told me how he was trying to make a replacement MAP sensor housing with the freescale sensor in it and my thread was going to make it harder for everyone to get one for cheaper and the molds are expensive or some gay shit. What a bitch.
I PM'd Jeff telling him about Chris's conflict of interest being a sponsor and a mod. He ended that shit and unlocked the thread.
Some people asked about the thread being locked the night before and someone said Dave was clicking the wrong buttons or something and then the forum went down. Bullfuckingshit.
So, to still get one in there, that nigger posted up is map sensor PCB's for sale. I guess he figured my thread was going to ruin his profits and he might as well play it off and still try to get money from people before the homemade part sinks in.
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Chris PM'd me saying I needed to call him. WTF. So I called him and he told me how he was trying to make a replacement MAP sensor housing with the freescale sensor in it and my thread was going to make it harder for everyone to get one for cheaper and the molds are expensive or some gay shit. What a bitch.
That's one reason I created this thread - about the only 'original' idea Xeno ever came up with is the expensive alternative to this, >$60 (plus shipping) in parts from him.
Every time I posted ANYTHING that I made onto HMT that even looked like I would be selling multiples, he'd have a PM fired at me saying I needed to pay for a sponsorship. When I posted a single MAC solenoid valve, he almost locked the topic instantly.
I learned the easiest way to hurt Xeno is to cut into his profits. ANYTHING we can do here that does that will put a thorn in his side.
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It nice see the tech brought here from the old site.
And fuck that nigger Xenocron who tried to bury my original thread on HMT claiming he clicked the wrong buttons or some gay shit.
Jeff put a stop to it real quick.
What? Details.
Oh ya, his faggotism runs deep.
Only hours after creating the thread and a few people posted, the thread was locked and the freescale part #'s were deleted. WTF?
Chris PM'd me saying I needed to call him. WTF. So I called him and he told me how he was trying to make a replacement MAP sensor housing with the freescale sensor in it and my thread was going to make it harder for everyone to get one for cheaper and the molds are expensive or some gay shit. What a bitch.
I PM'd Jeff telling him about Chris's conflict of interest being a sponsor and a mod. He ended that shit and unlocked the thread.
Some people asked about the thread being locked the night before and someone said Dave was clicking the wrong buttons or something and then the forum went down. Bullfuckingshit.
So, to still get one in there, that nigger posted up is map sensor PCB's for sale. I guess he figured my thread was going to ruin his profits and he might as well play it off and still try to get money from people before the homemade part sinks in.
It reminds me of the time when someone posted about the free samples you could get from freescale. Xenocron closed that thread as well because it cut into his business.
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I thought you can not free samples is there a way you can?
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I thought you can not free samples is there a way you can?
Not anymore. Mine works great though, with one of Madmax's MAP adapters from back in the day O0 I hollowed out the stock map sensor and wired it up so it just plugs into the stock harness, the actual sensor doesn't bolt onto the throttle body though.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi132.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq26%2Fjagojag%2Fmapadapter.jpg&hash=5ffa4a18ff59130f2e8da2431ac9e853cae9b85b)
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It reminds me of the time when someone posted about the free samples you could get from freescale. Xenocron closed that thread as well because it cut into his business.
I think it's pretty clear $$$$$$$$ is his only motivation. We were simple a means to an end a dollar.
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You can't get "free" freescale pressure transducer samples anymore. Their linear and some micro IC chips are open game to anyone with a non-generic email address (no hotmail, gmail, yahoo, etc accounts). They charge so much for "shipping" if you try to get samples from a generic email address that you are better off making a Digikey order.
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Nice, we used the other one for Mike's Z6 Turbo Teg.
I thought you can not free samples is there a way you can?
Not anymore. Mine works great though, with one of Madmax's MAP adapters from back in the day O0 I hollowed out the stock map sensor and wired it up so it just plugs into the stock harness, the actual sensor doesn't bolt onto the throttle body though.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi132.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq26%2Fjagojag%2Fmapadapter.jpg&hash=5ffa4a18ff59130f2e8da2431ac9e853cae9b85b)
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Wish I did mine this way instead of buying my 3BAR from XENOFAG. Will do the next project like this though
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I would do this, but I am fucking lazy and would rather pay someone to do it for me. lol. Nice write up!
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg143.imageshack.us%2Fimg143%2F2752%2Fnewmanifold02ux5.jpg&hash=990dfab60994d68d995acdd5f278d0d1b3dd2fb6)
is that an a/c compatable sink trap or top mount?
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Dont you see the condenser and ac lines?
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Dont you see the condenser and ac lines?
is that an a/c compatable sink trap or top mount?
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Dont you see the condenser and ac lines?
is that an a/c compatable sink trap or top mount?
Damn. Pwned.
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Ladies! Stop fighting 8)
I think glustic was assuming that no topmounts work with AC, which is still 99% right. Its actually a 4-2-1 sinktrap/elephant, using the stock EX manifold. I have pics of it mostly finished, I just can't find the 100% completed pics. :'( It has a really unusual WG tube, one tube connects to the 2 runners, and exits towards the AC compressor. The recirculated ching chong WG held it at 3.2psi perfectly when I had time to test it before winter (< 10 miles).
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Just did this sensor upgrade today to a 4bar my brother bought 3 years ago and didn't use it. Used RVT Silicon Gasket Maker to hold it back together. Right now it's zip-tied driyng up.
Will report back on how it works later on. Soldering the 3 wires onto the sensor was a PITA, everything else is easy. If none of my wires are shorting out, then it should work.
JD: I have to use Xenocron 4bar setting in crome to get it going, right? Just asking because it's the only 4bar there and Chris used it for a motorola. Car will need to be retuned as well.
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Yup, the xeno/omni/Hondata 3/4 bars are all the same thing.
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I do not trust myself with such small engineering. My fat fingers would fuck that thing up/cut myself.
I ended up getting a 4bar from tuner toys because I fail at electronics
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Yup, the xeno/omni/Hondata 3/4 bars are all the same thing.
Thanks, was just making sure.
I do not trust myself with such small engineering. My fat fingers would fuck that thing up/cut myself.
I ended up getting a 4bar from tuner toys because I fail at electronics
The hardest part of it was soldering the 3 wires onto the motorola map sensor, make sure to use very thin / flexible wire. Makes it a lot easier.
Im not even planning on running more than 12psi on my 100% stock LS, but did this just for the heck of it. If I had some ARPs I would turn up the boost some more.
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ARPs not needed.
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I'll give it a shot, High School Drags are in 2 weeks and I need to show these fuckers what a $100 honda motor does. Might pick up a set of 20X8X14 slicks this week for $100. Slicks shouldn't be too small considering stock motor on low boost with LS tranny.
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3" shorter is a big drop in gearing, and less surface area to bite. The gearing probably won't hurt you, LS trans being what it is, but the loss of tire size might.
Make sure your shit is aligned for drag racing, please.
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3" shorter is a big drop in gearing, and less surface area to bite. The gearing probably won't hurt you, LS trans being what it is, but the loss of tire size might.
Make sure your shit is aligned for drag racing, please.
I have 2 weeks to replace my front right control arm (faster and cheaper than the bushing itself which is completely gone and there's just a bolt in a big ass hole.) after that the car is getting alingment done. What should I go for on Dropzone Coilovers/stock struts/Skunk2 camber kit combo for camber angle? -2 or 3 degrees or more?
if im getting those slicks, then I would want to hit some low 13s high 12s at about 12-14lbs of boost.
Let me know on what camber angle I need, if you can. Want to do it right the first time around.
Thanks for your help so far.
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You want 0 degrees at full suspension lift.
Watch how high your nose lifts when launching (full lift). 0 degrees is where you get the biggest tire contact patch. Put the two ideas together.
Who cares what your camber is at rest? Let it fall wherever it falls.
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Who cares what your camber is at rest? Let it fall wherever it falls.
if its a street machine, it might not be a bad idea to keep it near -2* for tire wear and drivability.
but then again, if you have as many 13" 14" wheels and tires laying around it shouldn't be aproblem
jd knows what hes talkin about on this stuff, so listen
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im running 15" VW back from 1991 magnesium wheels right now, so finding used tires in good condition that are low profile is hard. Just bought the control arm tonight, so it's getting replaced tomorrow and will schedule the appointment for alignment tomorrow as well.
Turns out it's some bitch selling the slicks for her husband. Wouldn't budge on the price any, wants 150 firm. So, I'll just fuck the slicks and replace my tires that are past bald (half the wire is gone) and get it aligned good. Save some money for a paint job.
I think I should write a big fucking RHMT in black/red all over my car after putting some more primer to camouflage it's current fucked up paint. Wiill need to represent my ghetto ass school and show those other rich fucks how RHMT does it.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fc4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com%2Fimages02%2F43%2Fl_45fd955c1fcd49f19d7f3de988352687.jpg&hash=e9720650ab66b7789d9c2f1bbf5506de4d36c016)
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Hey! new here but just thought Id link you guys to mouser.com
http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Freescale-Semiconductor/MPXH6300AC6T1/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvhQj7WZhFIALpLlyV3lh9La0LFm3%2f55js%3d (http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Freescale-Semiconductor/MPXH6300AC6T1/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvhQj7WZhFIALpLlyV3lh9La0LFm3%2f55js%3d)
They are almost always cheaper on 90% of your electrical needs!
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Hey! new here but just thought Id link you guys to mouser.com
http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Freescale-Semiconductor/MPXH6300AC6T1/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvhQj7WZhFIALpLlyV3lh9La0LFm3%2f55js%3d (http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Freescale-Semiconductor/MPXH6300AC6T1/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvhQj7WZhFIALpLlyV3lh9La0LFm3%2f55js%3d)
They are almost always cheaper on 90% of your electrical needs!
Not bad where is your Intro post. ;D
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newark.com also sells both the 3 and 4bar sensors for ~$8.
menards sells RTV silicone in a 10.3oz caulk tube for $5 in the fireplace/wood stove section. works really well for making silicone charge pipe couplers too. just wet some fiberglass cloth with the stuff and mold it around a tube.
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Hey! new here but just thought Id link you guys to mouser.com
http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Freescale-Semiconductor/MPXH6300AC6T1/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvhQj7WZhFIALpLlyV3lh9La0LFm3%2f55js%3d (http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Freescale-Semiconductor/MPXH6300AC6T1/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvhQj7WZhFIALpLlyV3lh9La0LFm3%2f55js%3d)
They are almost always cheaper on 90% of your electrical needs!
Hmm...I may be buying some for a change. Jew I have a bunch of stock cases I've collected to make/sell when the season is in swing, that will be perfect. Their latching relays are more expensive, but only by pennies.
BTW link to the obd0 MAP thread:
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=9870.0 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=9870.0)
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I'm posting this since it took forever to find my old post with this info (I also fixed an typographical error I never noticed).
(http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,15832.msg206996.html#msg206996 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,15832.msg206996.html#msg206996))
The sensor values:
2.5bar:
min = 0.204 @ 20 kPa (.2bar)
max = 4.896 @ 250 kPa (2.5bar)
"koeo" voltage = 1.86v (calculated)
3bar:
min = 0.306 @ 20 kPa (.2bar)
max = 4.912 @ 304 kPa (3bar)
"koeo" voltage = 1.63v (calculated)
4bar:
min = 0.200 @ 20 kPa (.2bar)
max = 4.800 @ 400 kPa (4bar)
"koeo" voltage = 1.19v (calculated)
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Does anyone know of a 5 bar sensor in the same style? I need a bit more head room as im almost out of map.
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Does anyone know of a 5 bar sensor in the same style? I need a bit more head room as im almost out of map.
No 5-bar, but Motorola-Freescale makes a 7-bar:
MPXH6700AC6U
MPXH6700AC6T1
:noel:
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what's part# for 2.5Bar?
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what's part# for 2.5Bar?
Walter read this thread :noel:
Better pics this time around for sure. This needs to be stickied.
And just to add to the tech and make it a little easier for some of the lazy peeps, here are the digi-key part numbers.
2.5 bar
Part # MPX4250AP-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPX4250AP-ND (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPX4250AP-ND)
3 bar
Part # MPXH6300AC6U-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPXH6300AC6U-ND (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPXH6300AC6U-ND)
4 bar
Part # MPXH6400AC6T1CT-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPXH6400AC6T1CT-ND (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MPXH6400AC6T1CT-ND)
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why sensor looks different to the one you used in the first page? , last year i got too the same sensor but right now it looks different.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmedia.digikey.com%2Fphotos%2FFreescale%2520Photos%2F375-867B-04.jpg&hash=27ffe18e5c5f63ad693ac9e2a9a2f51d84b6390a)
:-\
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Looks like some info was just wrong. Here's the 2.5 BAR option, added them all to my 1st post:
Part # MPXH6250AC
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPXH6250AC6U/MPXH6250AC6U-ND/951825 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPXH6250AC6U/MPXH6250AC6U-ND/951825)
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Does anyone know of a 5 bar sensor in the same style? I need a bit more head room as im almost out of map.
No 5-bar, but Motorola-Freescale makes a 7-bar:
MPXH6700AC6U
MPXH6700AC6T1
:noel:
Thanks 7 bar will work great. I suck at finding electronics, any links I cant find them from those numbers. Cheers mate.
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Looks like some info was just wrong. Here's the 2.5 BAR option, added them all to my 1st post:
Part # MPXH6250AC
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPXH6250AC6U/MPXH6250AC6U-ND/951825 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MPXH6250AC6U/MPXH6250AC6U-ND/951825)
great! thanks.
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Does anyone know of a 5 bar sensor in the same style? I need a bit more head room as im almost out of map.
No 5-bar, but Motorola-Freescale makes a 7-bar:
MPXH6700AC6U
MPXH6700AC6T1
:noel:
Thanks 7 bar will work great. I suck at finding electronics, any links I cant find them from those numbers. Cheers mate.
Their only 7bar will not fit in a Honda case. The correct p/n is mpx5700asx or mpx5700ap for their only ported 7 Bar sensor that reads in absolute. MPXH6700AC6U is no longer offered by any vendor, if it even existed at all. It may have been a Motorola p/n, if it was it was d/c'd when Freescale took over.