:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Fabrication => Topic started by: malichite on March 16, 2009, 01:20:30 AM
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Been working on this for a while on and off but just finishing it up today. This is the first ramhorn I have ever made.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dotnetits.com%2Falbums%2FMalichiteMetals%2F100_2609.sized.jpg&hash=35378250ffca2d44f8be03f8ce218e874caece85)
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nice li-ion makita.. i was selling those for a while..
manhorn looks good
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:noel:
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not bad at all... what welder is that?
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Harbor Freight Tig
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looks good man. :yes:
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Looks pretty good! How much did that welder run you?
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nice! do you can shoot some more pics close how looks those welds? :yes: im waitng for argon for begin to work with the same tig you have O0
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My welds suck. I am still practicing. I dont have any close up pics of welds on the mani but here is one from my CRX rear strut bar I did yesterday both the sheetmetal box and the DOM tube.
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your welds look pretty damn good... im also curious on what it cost.
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$200
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My welds suck. I am still practicing. I dont have any close up pics of welds on the mani but here is one from my CRX rear strut bar I did yesterday both the sheetmetal box and the DOM tube.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dotnetits.com%2Falbums%2FMalichiteMetals%2F100_2620.sized.jpg&hash=1747cffb4848572150849c3602fa8891b8f6e555)
did you fitted pedal? looks good!
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nope, just set it and forget it. no hf start either. Scratch start for the real :somb:
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looks really nice ... one day ill be able to weld man i need a shop at weld in an apartmeant to well lol :somb:
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looks damn good. one of these days ill actually take my Harbor Freight tig out of the box :somb:
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Harbor Freight Tig
How did you get the hang of scratch start? Even using a copper block, it sticks half the time. That's even using the homemade pedal I rigged up. :-[
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nice compressor
decent mani, espically with the hf tig
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Harbor Freight Tig
How did you get the hang of scratch start? Even using a copper block, it sticks half the time. That's even using the homemade pedal I rigged up. :-[
Start by pounding a beer. <---This is necessary for me because I get the shakes a lot (to much caffine)
Next, practice practice practice. Remember, keep the tungston fresh and sharp. It is really hard to keep contaminents off the tungston because of the scratch start, but the better you can do the easier it is to start. If it sticks even once, stop, regrind and start again. I also got a gas lense and a real cup. The HF cups are really tiny. Switching to a gas lense you can run the standard size cup helps a ton.
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My welds suck. I am still practicing. I dont have any close up pics of welds on the mani but here is one from my CRX rear strut bar I did yesterday both the sheetmetal box and the DOM tube.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dotnetits.com%2Falbums%2FMalichiteMetals%2F100_2620.sized.jpg&hash=1747cffb4848572150849c3602fa8891b8f6e555)
these welds look excellent for a 200 dollar tig :yes:
makes me want to pick one up.. what was the total investment to get it up and running
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$200 for the tig, about 15-20 bucks for the gas lense and bigger cups, 80 for a good regulator and I had a bottle already.
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did anyone do a pedal attachment for the HF tig?
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I've seen a couple posts where people have done it. Thought about it myself but been to lazy
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what cup/gas lense did u use?
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Not sure. I went to PacWelding and said i want a gas lense. I am running a #5 cup right now. It is a little small. thinking of going up a size.
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i got this kit and looks OK to me..
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Get a gas lens Walter.
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what the hell is a gas lense ? i tried to figured it you what really it's in spanish but i dont get it what that means :somb:
can u post some pics about what is gas lens buddy¿
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i assume this is gas lens..
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi3.ebayimg.com%2F06%2Fi%2F000%2Fa7%2F26%2F8f07_1.JPG&hash=ff5af61867db082cd5e78a305a33f3d27d447a7e)
didnt know it's needed this for weld with TIG
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Better gas coverage.
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ok, ill get one then!
what do you cup# use?
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I use #8 with the Lens unless it is really tight then I have a #6, and a #5. 95% of the time it is a number 8, as with the lens if I need to I can get over 5/8" of tungsten stick out without an issue. This allows me to get into most everywhere with a #8.
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I use #8 with the Lens unless it is really tight then I have a #6, and a #5. 95% of the time it is a number 8, as with the lens if I need to I can get over 5/8" of tungsten stick out without an issue. This allows me to get into most everywhere with a #8.
do you have a HF TIG too?
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No I have a Miller dynasty 200dx
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Switching to a gas lense you can run the standard size cup helps a ton.
you run the gas lense on the HF torch, or did you use a different torch as well
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I run it on the HF torch
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Still going at this slowly. Got the downpipe done and wastegate added plus dump tube. Just have to do some finish welding and it is ready to go :yes: Madussa anybody?
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you're boarderline burning it up.
this will sound counter-intuitive, but here you go! - your heat input is fine and could stand to be a little hotter. you're just welding too slowly and the average heat input is becoming way too high as the material heats up.
whatd you use on the strut tower bar? get you some ER80S-2 or ER80S-6.
watch where you are scratching your tungsten. You should scratch inside the weld area prefferably closest to the root as you can.
when you want to stop welding, toss your filler (clip the last inch off before using the rod again) and back off your heat input while you slowly pull your arc away until it goes out. you're probably close to getting star & crater cracking.
remember 10 seconds post flow per 100amps.
pretty good first effort
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you're boarderline burning it up.
this will sound counter-intuitive, but here you go! - your heat input is fine and could stand to be a little hotter. you're just welding too slowly and the average heat input is becoming way too high as the material heats up.
whatd you use on the strut tower bar? get you some ER80S-2 or ER80S-6.
watch where you are scratching your tungsten. You should scratch inside the weld area prefferably closest to the root as you can.
when you want to stop welding, toss your filler (clip the last inch off before using the rod again) and back off your heat input while you slowly pull your arc away until it goes out. you're probably close to getting star & crater cracking.
remember 10 seconds post flow per 100amps.
pretty good first effort
i lick ur moms crater crack
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i use a #12 cup where i can on my gas lense. if it is a tough to reach spot i'll use a #8 extended cup with a smaller lense. i'll have to take some pics.
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looks great
where did you get the bends?