:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Fabrication => Topic started by: Random Hero on March 22, 2009, 12:16:11 AM
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Here's a cage I'm almost done with (Doesn't show all the 1" gussets or the dimple die I'll post those when I'm done/painted)
Its in a 88 HF (1877lbs corner weighted before the cage) Its all chromoly 10PT and goes through the firewall to shock towers
I'll post engine pics in another thread
450whp p/r gsr
gt3076r
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi711.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww117%2Frlegendz%2F1234144571558.jpg&hash=a35c40f88288cb5b94485f71717e253170884202)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi711.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww117%2Frlegendz%2F1234144672459.jpg&hash=b6b1f7dc1b7fcf80e7e6c9efb0b3c1c264d7d2d2)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi711.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww117%2Frlegendz%2F1234144697798.jpg&hash=6ac66ea3ffa3c7f37e7fa899f951f0b074cb36b7)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi711.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww117%2Frlegendz%2F1234748058266.jpg&hash=170a81f73a8b94ad6bc995bb417614e03d80ae03)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi711.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww117%2Frlegendz%2F1234748100968.jpg&hash=85f5defc68bf4d46d04ee7c9534b5e2a204499d4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi711.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww117%2Frlegendz%2F1234748192266.jpg&hash=b15089634bfec06b40396d30c1687c8bc3813e7b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi711.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww117%2Frlegendz%2F1234748214421.jpg&hash=93c50eb2a45fe26bdbe12f1cd1eb0c715dee9d1e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi711.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww117%2Frlegendz%2F1234748229425.jpg&hash=030363227ad1e43a6fa4048e3e135af204dab5f0)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi711.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fww117%2Frlegendz%2F1234748239866.jpg&hash=6cbe1c9d433b5fd6d68fb6088eaaf16c141aa83f)
Best of all the interior still fits!
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that looks nice, I need a cage in my eg. Is your dads car still in one piece?
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that looks nice, I need a cage in my eg. Is your dads car still in one piece?
Yep
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looks good
my 90 hf weighed in at 1800 with no cage. if i made it any faster than it was i was gonna add a cage to it.
Nice, the 1877 was bseries/turbo. he claimed it weighed under 1800 before.
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damn, cage looks awesome! was it a kit or did you do all the bends yourself?
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damn, cage looks awesome! was it a kit or did you do all the bends yourself?
The main hoop is AM and the rest was all strait's.
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you motivate me to weld bigger and better projects...this is sweet :yes:
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you motivate me to weld bigger and better projects...this is sweet :yes:
Thanks. As long as you take your time and triple check all your cuts/grinds/slaves/bends you can't really fuck it up. plan plan plan.
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in for finished pics :noel:
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Nice. Bet it's solid. Did you have any issues with the main hoop being a cunt hair to wide. AM is in Art Morrison right?
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Nice. Bet it's solid. Did you have any issues with the main hoop being a cunt hair to wide. AM is in Art Morrison right?
Yeah the hoop is art morrison.
Ive never had an issue with their cages ever. this is the 23rd one ive installed. did yours hit the b pillars?
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hmm..You're in washington right? I may have a few jobs for you if you're interested.
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Nice. Bet it's solid. Did you have any issues with the main hoop being a cunt hair to wide. AM is in Art Morrison right?
Yeah the hoop is art morrison.
Ive never had an issue with their cages ever. this is the 23rd one ive installed. did yours hit the b pillars?
dam thats some exsperience wish i could have done that many cages
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It hit right where the ends are supposed to go on the floor board. But on the factory support post. Like it was about a inch over all too wide. Just took me squeezing it a bit to fit on outer bank of the floor board weld plates.
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hmm..You're in washington right? I may have a few jobs for you if you're interested.
let me know
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damn wanna do mine
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very impressive. Wish I had the skill/patience to do shit like that.
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The pics are blurry as shit, but it looks like you mig'd it in?
I couldn't imagine tiging in a cage not only would it take years, but I know that for me after doing a couple cages the floor plates are always a pain even when wire feeding them in. In my experience the prep of the car and the floor plates are the "hard" parts of a cage.
Did you hole saw the floor first and drop the cage to get the top of the halo? From the pics it almost looks like you would have enough room where the halo meets the main hoop to get all the way around as is, but the A supports to halo look too tight.
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what rulebook did you follow when building this cage?
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Its NHRA legal.
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Looks more like a road race cage. Over kill for a 8.50 spec, not that it is by any means is a bad thing.
Is it getting a Knee bar? I know it is not required as the foot wells are unmodded, but there are a number of other overkill pieces so...
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LOL.
The door bar braces are more like a SCCA deal, but it makes getting in and out alot easier.... And yes. Too nuch is good, the DOM tubing is super light.
Mines next :noel:
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super light = chrome moly = $$$
but yea, I want one for my car for safety at the strip and to stiffen up the chassis a bit at auto-xs
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LOL.
The door bar braces are more like a SCCA deal, but it makes getting in and out alot easier.... And yes. Too nuch is good, the DOM tubing is super light.
Mines next :noel:
I like swing out's personally and they will meet spec to an 8.50 cage. Yeah the door bar x's and the rear cross support are all added "benefit" over the 8.50 spec.
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super light = chrome moly = $$$
but yea, I want one for my car for safety at the strip and to stiffen up the chassis a bit at auto-xs
Unless I had an oven big enough to put the whole cage in and normalize it after welding, I would never bother with Cromo.
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YOure way overcomplicating things with your oven wants... I get what youre saying, but its not needed
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YOure way overcomplicating things with your oven wants... I get what youre saying, but its not needed
[OFF TOPIC]
Now keep in mind, I have not installed 23 cages like Random hero has, but I have installed a number of them, both with pre bent main hoops (Comp engineering style), as well as starting with just sticks and a JD2 Model 3 bender. I have also done exo cages, and back halves on rock crawlers, traction bars for diesel pullers, 4 link suspension setups, c notch's, frame extensions, ect... There is a reason I have $10K in welders and shit at home despite the fact I haven't welded for money in years. I only weld as a hobby now, and I don't charge anything for my work.
I guess the big difference between you and me is, I personally have had a major cromo failure at the weld from the HAZ being brittle. The long arm on my 4 link suspension (toyota back halved rock crawler) where it was welded to the RE joint, after that I would never trust a cromo cage that hasn't been normalized. Now this is MY only personal experience with cromo failure, I have seen in person with my own eyes a number of shock mounts and some other suspension pieces crack or break right off on desert trucks (sportsman, 7s, and one 5-1600 bug) cromo has a fatigue life, and is brittle in the haz area without normalization. There is a reason that NASCAR and a number of other racing organizations spec 1020 DOM, and not chrome moly.
So as far as my wants, I am more then happy with 1020 DOM for cages, and that is all I will install or use myself. I will leave the 4130, 4340, 300m ect... for things like axle shafts.
[/OFF TOPIC]
Sorry for the hi jack... Random hero, the cage looks great, despite the gay fuzzy pictures, still wondering if you had to drop it to weld the A's to the Halo, or if you popped the windshield out, or...?
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Wonder how hard it would be to make your own with the proper straight pipe and this:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.harborfreight.com%2Fcpi%2Fphotos%2F35300-35399%2F35336.gif&hash=f9636fbd5b7e6e21e3adf0a7aac3a855224ab663)
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Wonder how hard it would be to make your own with the proper straight pipe and this:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.harborfreight.com%2Fcpi%2Fphotos%2F35300-35399%2F35336.gif&hash=f9636fbd5b7e6e21e3adf0a7aac3a855224ab663)
That is a pipe bender, it has different OD then tube, and as such the tube gets stuck in it, also it has a tendency to kink pipe, vs make it a nice smooth bend.
What you are looking for if you want to bed tubing is this:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jd2.com%2Fimages%2FM3B_Bender1_rs.jpg&hash=d7e680861fb19df8f1d7861b85d43b312bc1499f)
Made by JD Squared: http://www.jd2.com/ (http://www.jd2.com/)
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YOure way overcomplicating things with your oven wants... I get what youre saying, but its not needed
[OFF TOPIC]
Now keep in mind, I have not installed 23 cages like Random hero has, but I have installed a number of them, both with pre bent main hoops (Comp engineering style), as well as starting with just sticks and a JD2 Model 3 bender. I have also done exo cages, and back halves on rock crawlers, traction bars for diesel pullers, 4 link suspension setups, c notch's, frame extensions, ect... There is a reason I have $10K in welders and shit at home despite the fact I haven't welded for money in years. I only weld as a hobby now, and I don't charge anything for my work.
I guess the big difference between you and me is, I personally have had a major cromo failure at the weld from the HAZ being brittle. The long arm on my 4 link suspension (toyota back halved rock crawler) where it was welded to the RE joint, after that I would never trust a cromo cage that hasn't been normalized. Now this is MY only personal experience with cromo failure, I have seen in person with my own eyes a number of shock mounts and some other suspension pieces crack or break right off on desert trucks (sportsman, 7s, and one 5-1600 bug) cromo has a fatigue life, and is brittle in the haz area without normalization. There is a reason that NASCAR and a number of other racing organizations spec 1020 DOM, and not chrome moly.
So as far as my wants, I am more then happy with 1020 DOM for cages, and that is all I will install or use myself. I will leave the 4130, 4340, 300m ect... for things like axle shafts.
[/OFF TOPIC]
Sorry for the hi jack... Random hero, the cage looks great, despite the gay fuzzy pictures, still wondering if you had to drop it to weld the A's to the Halo, or if you popped the windshield out, or...?
Nowhere have I argued or pretended to posess more experienc than you sir...
However, citing you need a fucking oven to bake your shit to normalixe a cage on a site called realhomemadeturbo seems, well... Morinic... Or at least... WAY out of scope. It will be finme is all I saiud.
And I stand by it
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However, citing you need a fucking oven to bake your shit to normalixe a cage on a site called realhomemadeturbo seems, well... Morinic... Or at least... WAY out of scope. It will be finme is all I saiud.
And I stand by it
This whole thing seems to have gotten confused. As onlyflash944 had mentioned chromoly for a light $$$ cage, which "on a site called realhomemadeturbo seems, well... Morinic... Or at least... WAY out of scope.
" So I veered completely off topic to say that chromoly really isn't a good idea... Ect...
I apologize for pulling this thread so off topic.
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I welded the a's to the halo before i welded the halo to the hoop.
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Works good with schedule 40 pipe. Not much else.
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I was just curious about the dash. Are you going to notch the stock one?
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I was just curious about the dash. Are you going to notch the stock one?
If you do notch the dash can get a little write-up about I'm interested in this cage. :yes:
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I was just curious about the dash. Are you going to notch the stock one?
If you do notch the dash can get a little write-up about I'm interested in this cage. :yes:
I'm thinking of a cage as well so this is good info.
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looks good.
things to know about welding CM.
er70s-2 has not been the standard filler for it for years, tho people keep using it. use er80s-2 or s-6.
buy some temp-sticks and either preheat AND post heat all your joints to 300-400*F. normally you hear people talking about doing it only for over .120" thick wall. remember that the effective thickness in some welds will may make your welds beyond this thickness.
doesn't take long to tig-weld them, but it goes MUCH faster if you tack weld it with wire or stick. assuming you have an oxy-fuel torch, it takes very little time to pre-& post heat them. adds an extra two to each applicable weld.
ive read on the lincoln site some people use 310 or 312 filler. i wouldn't... can't find the mechanical properties anywhere online & that just adds one more type of rarely used filler to have laying around.