:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: ironcrx on November 28, 2009, 10:28:11 PM
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Im in dire need of your help nogs. I fucked up my transmission rebuild because of all the things i made sure to do before putting it back in my car, I didnt check if it even shifted. Fuck. So tomorrow I have to redo 7 hours of transmission removal, reassembly, then reinstall.
Ok so Today I was replacing seals and bearings in the transmission. Followed a step by step guide on the crx community forums. However when I got everything put back together, the shifter wouldn't budge at all.
So at this point im pissed realizing I gotta redo everything tomorrow. I take a look inside a spare tranny I had already taken apart to see if i could figure out whats wrong.
The rod connected to the shift linkage that goes into the transmission is suppose to move in and out when you shift. Inside the tranny it moves the gear stacks around. The part im talking about is at the bottom left of this picture:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwickedinnovation.net%2Fdownest%2FCRXComTech%2FTransmission%2Fshift%2520assembly%2520diagram.jpg&hash=2267aa21bbcf643bd340dc6c30a546fa24b31284)
That little sucker moves up and down when you shift and when I tried to put it together with the gear stacks and shifter forks, it was a real pain and I couldnt figure out how it sat together.
If anyone can help me and if im even clear enough (i hope someone understands) then a picture or nice explanation would be awesome. I gotta get this figured out so I can redo it tomorrow.
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi107.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm307%2Fbonespec%2FTransmission%2FD%2520Series%2FP7290006.jpg&hash=b6485d95fc00e92569f39f5fd8f23f24a4b49bfe)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi107.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm307%2Fbonespec%2FTransmission%2FD%2520Series%2FP7290003.jpg&hash=b72d385a142fcb277a50898bcfc7cb7f118c6dbb)
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the three prongs that are on the shaft have to be inside the corresponding "U"s on the shift fork assembley. you can check to make sure it works before you put the trans back together. look at bone's pictures, thats what it needs to be like
So tomorrow I have to redo 7 hours of transmission removal, reassembly, then reinstall.
it must fucking suck to only have one arm
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Ok got it all back together, aligned everything, reassembled it and put it in. Now its experiencing problems.
The problems:
shifting between gears is pretty hard and rough to do
takes 2 hands and a lot of effort to get it into reverse
i cant get it into 5th to save my life.
I pieced it all back together just like i took it apart, rechecked everything, referenced several how-to's, and checked to make sure the shift link moved in and out freely.
My only "hey could it be this" idea is the shift linkage. Do the two arms rub each other and touch? I could sweat theres suppose to be some space in between the two. Other than that im clueless.
Any ideas or suggestions?
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do you not bench shift it before you install it? i check every gear several times with a screwdriver shoved in the hole for the bitch pin
if it went through all the gears on the bench, then it doesn't shift right in the car, i'd look at the linkage for sure. why don't you drop the shift linkage from the transmission and see if you can get a screwdriver where the bitch pin goes with it in the car and see if you can run through the gears with out the linkage
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I bench shifted it and it easily shifted. ill check the linkage when I can but otherwise im stumped.
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and people think tranny work is gravy money......until they try it themselves!
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I knew it wasnt gravy but walk throughs are definitely missing some key elements of warning and "hey dont forget". Oh well. Its a learning process.
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Well heres pics of carnage from my transmission.
It appears that when putting the case back onto the transmission, I was too lax about it and messed up the top bearing. Then it got chewed up with all the shifting and struggling. :?:
Circled is the bearing:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi22.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb314%2Firon_forrix%2FDSCN0370.jpg&hash=79fa9f44413ee1c99914739dc76ae5f11910fd98)
This is the inside band thats left from the bearing (where the bearing goes):
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi22.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb314%2Firon_forrix%2FDSCN0371.jpg&hash=3881d4b0125b9de3a544e3154d94762b1cf9632e)
So later this week ill be trying again and taking better care of that top bearing, the snap ring with it, etc. As for the gear stacks and all, well I got another set incase i need it. Ill inspect the current one for damage, shavings, etc and figure out my options. I wont even bother with that case. I use a different one that doesnt have a bunch of shit in it.
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How in the hell did you manage that without cracking the case whilst bolting the case halves together?
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live and learn
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How in the hell did you manage that without cracking the case whilst bolting the case halves together?
I have no idea ???
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he cracked the outer race when tightening the case together.
Likely ruined the lock ring in process, will need a good 2-3 hours to strip the shafts and deep clean EVERYTHING.
IF you plan on putting a gear set into a different case, you will FAIL since you won't bother to shim as needed.
Of all the "walk throughs" did you read the factory service manual?
How about stop, take a pic, ask a question before screwing things up???? I love tranny porn and have always been willing to answer "D"eez tranny questions.
I've made quite a few errors when I started learning, but never this one.
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I didnt pay enough attention to the snap ring and all that goodness when putting it together. So i paid big time for it.
Ive got several options to choose from in putting it back together at least. Got a spare gear set and half of the case it belongs to(bottom part with diff, both stacks and everything untouched). My best option is to use it and put the new bearings i installed in my failed transmission into the spare, and find me another case cover since i already know the snap ring it screwed.
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ya, you have to get the lock ring at least started over the bearing before you tighten the bolts. it's not a bad idea to just smack the case with a hammer and a block of wood as padding to get the two halves to meet (after you get the snap ring started). that way you don't fuck something like this up when you run the bolts tight
bone, do you install any obx lsds for customers anymore>
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won't touch OBX's anymore.
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won't touch OBX's anymore.
Liability, power handling, or what? I've only seen people complain when they didn't retorque everything or do the washers correctly. Not questioning your knowledge, just curious why.
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Because all the obx's lsd that are the 3 gen, are total crap. (At least thats what Ive heard) The run out on them is shit. You can look it up and see it all over the web. You can put a bearing on one and set it in the case and spin it and watch it wobble.
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won't touch OBX's anymore.
Liability, power handling, or what? I've only seen people complain when they didn't retorque everything or do the washers correctly. Not questioning your knowledge, just curious why.
Excessive runout issues with the newest versions. Like 10x the service limit
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Because all the obx's lsd that are the 3 gen, are total crap. (At least thats what Ive heard) The run out on them is shit. You can look it up and see it all over the web. You can put a bearing on one and set it in the case and spin it and watch it wobble.
i need to get off my ass and make a thread
i worked over two of the new obx lsd. one has been in my ride for 1300 miles, not a problem, and joe has one in his setup that he's trying to get 9s out of. the run out can be 'fixed' with not much effort. i don't have a nice dial indicators, but i was able to see the runout with it installed in the case out of the box. then i did my magic to one and tested it the same way, and i couldn't see the runout with my eye. i'm no tranny expert like bone, but i feel more than comfortable with the modified unit in my car.
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i need to get off my ass and make a thread
i worked over two of the new obx lsd. one has been in my ride for 1300 miles, not a problem, and joe has one in his setup that he's trying to get 9s out of. the run out can be 'fixed' with not much effort. i don't have a nice dial indicators, but i was able to see the runout with it installed in the case out of the box. then i did my magic to one and tested it the same way, and i couldn't see the runout with my eye. i'm no tranny expert like bone, but i feel more than comfortable with the modified unit in my car.
I'd like to see how you fixed them.
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i need to get off my ass and make a thread
i worked over two of the new obx lsd. one has been in my ride for 1300 miles, not a problem, and joe has one in his setup that he's trying to get 9s out of. the run out can be 'fixed' with not much effort. i don't have a nice dial indicators, but i was able to see the runout with it installed in the case out of the box. then i did my magic to one and tested it the same way, and i couldn't see the runout with my eye. i'm no tranny expert like bone, but i feel more than comfortable with the modified unit in my car.
I'd like to see how you fixed them.
i bet ;)
when i get some free time to write up a decent post ill share some 'tech' with the community
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^NOW!
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I don't know how you could have forgotten the clip you had to undo to take the case apart but wow. impressive fuck up. Having lots of space and keeping organized as you pull things apart seems key, at least till you've done a few. It was once mentioned to me that having it clean is the most important part. For the last step to put the cases together i have found that a cold bearing and a warm case half works like butter.