:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo

General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: Eggylshatch on December 01, 2009, 11:07:08 AM

Title: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: Eggylshatch on December 01, 2009, 11:07:08 AM
I'm rebuilding a b18b to slap in my eg over the winter break.  I have most of the parts I need but I'm torn on the pistons... I will eventually turbo this motor, but with my financial situation right now and grad school owning all of my time/soul, it will be a while.  Should I still with the stock pistons for now and deal with the lesser power for better c/r with turbo later, or should I get some cast b16 pistons to bump up the c/r for some extra hosses for now?  If I boost it, I probably won't be changing the pistons again at that time (for cost and time reasons).

For now, I'm planning on doing a gasket match-port job on my ls head with a smoothing of casting flaws and calling it good.  I do plan on eventually getting some crower or delta cams for better flow out of the ls head- which would help the turbo effort, but would also use the higher c/r better if I do go that route...

Staying cast pistons because I'm poor (and stock build parts are cool), so not planning crazy boost in future, just fun around town boost, so maybe the higher c/r would be tolerable and just make for more fun??  The b16 pistons (pr3's right?) put it around 10:1 right?  I'll check...


Title: Re: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: Robb on December 01, 2009, 11:16:45 AM
... I will eventually turbo this motor...

You anwsered your own question.  If you will eventually boost it, and dont plan on swapping pistons out again, then duh.  :P
Title: Re: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: Teg2boo on December 01, 2009, 11:18:54 AM
For less trouble, I'd say stock piston + 10lbs of boost. You'll need to change the clutch tho. It will get you to over 230hp and it will be a daily ripper.

High comp piston + cam will get you at maybe little over 170hp. But this is my internet knowledge, I don't know shit about N/A cars lol
Title: Re: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: Eggylshatch on December 01, 2009, 11:48:42 AM
... I will eventually turbo this motor...

You anwsered your own question.  If you will eventually boost it, and dont plan on swapping pistons out again, then duh.  :P

lol I was afraid of that.  Wouldn't a higher comp engine+cam+holset@10lbs+meth/water injection (and tuning)= tire-roasting FUN though??

... I know, fuck all that other shit, b18+holset and turn up the boost, right?
Title: Re: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: Robb on December 01, 2009, 11:57:07 AM
Your wasting a Holset if your only gonna run 10lbs. 
Title: Re: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: Teg2boo on December 01, 2009, 12:00:32 PM
... I will eventually turbo this motor...

You anwsered your own question.  If you will eventually boost it, and dont plan on swapping pistons out again, then duh.  :P

lol I was afraid of that.  Wouldn't a higher comp engine+cam+holset@10lbs+meth/water injection (and tuning)= tire-roasting FUN though??

... I know, fuck all that other shit, b18+holset and turn up the boost, right?

Probably as fun as     stock engine+cam+holset@10lbs-meth/water injection+ tuning= tire-roasting

There motor like the abuse bellow 300hp. Just need a good clutch, cause you'll rip the stock in the 2 or 3 first pulls.
Title: Re: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: Teg2boo on December 01, 2009, 12:01:20 PM
Don't start to change swap pistons if you don't really need to.
Title: Re: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: Corey on December 02, 2009, 07:40:33 AM
considering stock gsr's are 10.4 - 10.6 comp i dont see why putting the b16's in would be a prob if its only 10:1.

Title: Re: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: Teg2boo on December 02, 2009, 08:20:52 AM
From this calculator it's 10.8:1, but I don't know the website. http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/compcalc/compcalc.php (http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/compcalc/compcalc.php)
Title: Re: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: Eggylshatch on December 02, 2009, 10:09:00 AM
... I will eventually turbo this motor...

You anwsered your own question.  If you will eventually boost it, and dont plan on swapping pistons out again, then duh.  :P

lol I was afraid of that.  Wouldn't a higher comp engine+cam+holset@10lbs+meth/water injection (and tuning)= tire-roasting FUN though??

... I know, fuck all that other shit, b18+holset and turn up the boost, right?

Probably as fun as     stock engine+cam+holset@10lbs-meth/water injection+ tuning= tire-roasting

There motor like the abuse bellow 300hp. Just need a good clutch, cause you'll rip the stock in the 2 or 3 first pulls.

Yee I had a boosted b18 in an eg a few years back.  So I already have a clutch for it-- ready this time. 

considering stock gsr's are 10.4 - 10.6 comp i dont see why putting the b16's in would be a prob if its only 10:1.


yeah c-speed calculator puts it at 10.8:1 with the pr3's, but with the p72's (gsr) its around a 10:1, so maybe I'll look for some of them?  Or I could stop being a bitch and just use the ls's that are in there already...
Title: Re: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: HiProfile on December 03, 2009, 02:36:38 PM
From this calculator it's 10.8:1, but I don't know the website. http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/compcalc/compcalc.php (http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/compcalc/compcalc.php)

I'd go with p72's if you can. Actually I might do this, along with p72's. They give half a point more compression and are basicly flat-tops. Ideal burn for practically anything. They just have that too-narrow-for-LS-rods problem, easily solved with a die grinder or a vertical mill. If you want a tad less compression, modify the combustion chaimber by deshrouding the valves. Cake+eat it too.

If people can boost on gsr's and itr's with insane numbers, a 10.08:1 (zealautoworks.com calc ftw) b18b should be a cakewalk. Otherwise get cams.
Title: Re: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: Eggylshatch on December 05, 2009, 01:49:47 PM
From this calculator it's 10.8:1, but I don't know the website. http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/compcalc/compcalc.php (http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/compcalc/compcalc.php)

I'd go with p72's if you can. Actually I might do this, along with p72's. They give half a point more compression and are basicly flat-tops. Ideal burn for practically anything. They just have that too-narrow-for-LS-rods problem, easily solved with a die grinder or a vertical mill. If you want a tad less compression, modify the combustion chaimber by deshrouding the valves. Cake+eat it too.

If people can boost on gsr's and itr's with insane numbers, a 10.08:1 (zealautoworks.com calc ftw) b18b should be a cakewalk. Otherwise get cams.

I like the way you think.  Gonna give it a whirl. 
EDIT: Looks like the rods need to be shaved down about 1mm on each side to fit the pistons.  This is probably something I should have done by a machine shop for balance purposes right? I could just hack at it myself but that doesn't seem very... precise...

Wish I new more about headwork...don't really know what deshrouding the valves means, and I'd love to be able to give it a real port job with some real combustion chamber work before I put it on.  some day, eh? 
Title: Re: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: HiProfile on December 06, 2009, 09:28:26 PM
Deshrouding is removing material around the valve seat to flow better. Not much to do in vtak heads.

As I mentioned, the rods are a hair too big. It would be all of $50 at most machine shops to grind the rods down, or you could grind the pistons a tad. They never really touch each other, so the surfaces just have to be somewhat flat. If they do touch, your thrust bearings are gone.

I'm going to get a cross-slide vice for my cheap drill press and use an endmill to shave a sliver of material each pass. I already have a motorized setup in mind. Otherwise it will just me move & plunge, move & plunge.
Title: Re: WW(rHMT)D?
Post by: Eggylshatch on December 07, 2009, 01:08:45 AM
Deshrouding is removing material around the valve seat to flow better. Not much to do in vtak heads.

As I mentioned, the rods are a hair too big. It would be all of $50 at most machine shops to grind the rods down, or you could grind the pistons a tad. They never really touch each other, so the surfaces just have to be somewhat flat. If they do touch, your thrust bearings are gone.

I'm going to get a cross-slide vice for my cheap drill press and use an endmill to shave a sliver of material each pass. I already have a motorized setup in mind. Otherwise it will just me move & plunge, move & plunge.

I'm gonna go with the gsr pistons and see how it works out.  My main constraint is the timeline-- I'll only be home for 3 weeks max and its around xmas so its hard to know.  I've been trying to get all the parts together that I'll need but since the swap is at home and I'm away, its hard to know what I'm missing.  If I run out of time for machining shit or whatever, I can just go with the ls pistons and resell the gsr's.

Rough timeline as it is:
1st week:
Get home, look over everything for anything that could be missing, and order immediately
Swap the pedal set (also an auto to manual conversion) and pick up missing parts and piddle shit like oil, tranny oil, spark plugs, gaskets, etc
Engine rebuild, piece everything together for the swap
Following weekend:
1 day of pulling engine, and auto-manual completion,
and 2nd day new engine in, break in engine, burnouts, drunken videos,
Mad hosspowaz.

Skipping the part where everything goes wrong and  I'm missing a hundred vital pieces, the engine eats itself when turned over, the tranny is fucked, friend doesn't show up with welder, and I choke my baby's momma to death and end up in jail.