:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: SDRAWKCAB on December 07, 2009, 10:46:33 PM
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Ok Iv got my 92 F23 prelude running and driving like a champ with a couple of exceptions.
The starter problem.
Im not getting 12v at the solenoid signal wire when the key is turned. Black red wire.
Car turns right over if i put 12v to the signal wire on the starter.
Its not getting 12v at the engine bay connector either.
I checked the ign switch and all the wires are getting power.
I jumped the clutch switch also.
checked the 7.5 amp fuse oms out fine.
changed out the main realy for good measure no go.
Iv never fucked with preludes before and there is a second clutch switch up top?
There is a starter relay? Which one is it?
The dash problem.
Its got the ultra sweet digital dash.
Shit dont work, I wold like my temp and gas gauges so help me out.
Any ideas?
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noT OK
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Your ultra sweet digital dash is an abortion. Half the status lights stretch over to the passenger's side of the car. What's up with that?
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Your ultra sweet digital dash is an abortion. Half the status lights stretch over to the passenger's side of the car. What's up with that?
The status lights all work. The only thing that dosent work is the clock gas and temp.
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I read that too fast and thought it said gas temp
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If you say you can jump across the solenoid and it starts then the motor is good. Then you need to eliminate the wiring. Disable spark or fuel so it won't start. Check voltage from battery positive to the power connection (M) on the starter motor (not solenoid, but actual motor). Always check voltage drop while cranking. voltage drop should be .5 or less. Then check the voltage drop from the starter case to the negative battery terminal. Total voltage drop for both sides should be less than .5 - .7 combined.
If you have something higher then you have a high resistance somewhere. Start cutting the wiring down to find it. for example, check from battery to battery cable. cable to solenoid. across solenoid... etc etc. Break it into small parts. The voltage drop should be as close to zero as possible. usually around .1 or .2.
If you wiring is good then, then check for opens. Connect your DVM from to the M terminal and a good known ground. You should see more than 9.6v when the ign switch is in the start position. If the voltage is > 9.6v, your IGN power is good. Connect your leads from the BATT lead on the solenoid to a good known ground. voltage when put in the start positions should be > 9.6v. If your ign is good and batt power is good, then if you can jump across the solenoid and it cranks the motor, your solenoid is faulty.
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If you say you can jump across the solenoid and it starts then the motor is good. Then you need to eliminate the wiring. Disable spark or fuel so it won't start. Check voltage from battery positive to the power connection (M) on the starter motor (not solenoid, but actual motor). Always check voltage drop while cranking. voltage drop should be .5 or less. Then check the voltage drop from the starter case to the negative battery terminal. Total voltage drop for both sides should be less than .5 - .7 combined.
If you have something higher then you have a high resistance somewhere. Start cutting the wiring down to find it. for example, check from battery to battery cable. cable to solenoid. across solenoid... etc etc. Break it into small parts. The voltage drop should be as close to zero as possible. usually around .1 or .2.
If you wiring is good then, then check for opens. Connect your DVM from to the M terminal and a good known ground. You should see more than 9.6v when the ign switch is in the start position. If the voltage is > 9.6v, your IGN power is good. Connect your leads from the BATT lead on the solenoid to a good known ground. voltage when put in the start positions should be > 9.6v. If your ign is good and batt power is good, then if you can jump across the solenoid and it cranks the motor, your solenoid is faulty.
The soleniod is in working order if I take a test lead from the battery to the soleniod signal wire shit turns right over.
The signal wire isnt showing any volts at all.
I traced it to the plugs and its nopt getting power there.
What I need to know is there a starter relay and where is it.
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If you say you can jump across the solenoid and it starts then the motor is good. Then you need to eliminate the wiring. Disable spark or fuel so it won't start. Check voltage from battery positive to the power connection (M) on the starter motor (not solenoid, but actual motor). Always check voltage drop while cranking. voltage drop should be .5 or less. Then check the voltage drop from the starter case to the negative battery terminal. Total voltage drop for both sides should be less than .5 - .7 combined.
If you have something higher then you have a high resistance somewhere. Start cutting the wiring down to find it. for example, check from battery to battery cable. cable to solenoid. across solenoid... etc etc. Break it into small parts. The voltage drop should be as close to zero as possible. usually around .1 or .2.
If you wiring is good then, then check for opens. Connect your DVM from to the M terminal and a good known ground. You should see more than 9.6v when the ign switch is in the start position. If the voltage is > 9.6v, your IGN power is good. Connect your leads from the BATT lead on the solenoid to a good known ground. voltage when put in the start positions should be > 9.6v. If your ign is good and batt power is good, then if you can jump across the solenoid and it cranks the motor, your solenoid is faulty.
The soleniod is in working order if I take a test lead from the battery to the soleniod signal wire shit turns right over.
The signal wire isnt showing any volts at all.
I traced it to the plugs and its nopt getting power there.
What I need to know is there a starter relay and where is it.
You need to trace it back until you do see power. you talking about the ign side not having power at the M terminal? I'm not positive by any means, but I would say its not completely unheard of for there to be a fusible link somewhere along those IGN wires.
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i'll be honest, i just dropped in here for the boobs.
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i'll be honest, i just dropped in here for the boobs.
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Well if I can get the relay thing figured out Im just gonna put in a separate relay to a push button under the dash.
The gas gauge and temp gauge are kind of necessity.
Anyone?
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if you posted up some wiring diagrams I think it might be helpful, you know?
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God bless lauren.
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Changed the relay.
BOOM prefect, works great.
Now for the dash.
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Well no thanks to you fuck but all problems are fixed on the car now getting it registered this week.
starter problem=relay
sweet gauge problem=couple of fried caps and resistors.
I got the whole cluster for only 35 bucks and you cant beat that with a stick.
Car is minty I take pics later this week.
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youre welcome