:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: turbob16hatch on December 31, 2009, 03:07:10 AM
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ok i know it has been done to death in the obd-1 cases. but can this be done to a obd-0 case?
I want to keep the oem obd-0 case for looks.
lmk
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I think the problem is that most of them are a 1-pc w/epoxy case. The obd1's are nice because they are 2-pc, with goo & plastic ribbing inside that is ground away easy enough. It's been forever since I looked at my spare, and I don't even know where it got stashed.
AFAIK you'd have to cut it like a brain surgeon, grind out the sensor (will probably be in the way), grind a path to the electrical tabs, and "stitch" it back up with epoxy afterwards. So in terms of looks, it will look hacked anyways. :-\
Also, nothing will help hold it together like the rivets & bolts on the obd1 cases.
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damn thats not what i was looking to hear.
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Just use the obd1 case and run a vacuum line off the bottom and mount it to the firewall.
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well mise well get a gm 3 bar at that rate. :-\
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You should be able to source a obd1 map for under 10 bucks shipped. Im sure I have some extras laying around in my bin of sensors.
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oh i have plenty of parts, just not really into mixing obd1 with obd0.
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well mise well get a gm 3 bar at that rate. :-\
Might as well play "pin the tale on the high vacuum cell" with the GM pos while you're at it. Same for "pin the tale on the 3rd party manufacturer's true voltage/pressure graph". :P
One thing I did think up a while back is to make a bracket/base the obd1 sensor bolts to, with a bigger nipple threaded into it. You can bolt it up where ever (firewall, steering knuckle, trunk?), and even have some bling if you polish it up nice. I'll post some mspaint pics once I finish faxing some chit tomorrow.
BTW the ideal solution is to run it obd1 from the intake gasket backwards to the MAP sensor...most obd1 IM's tend to be better for power anyways.
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What the MAP sensor reads, approximately, is irrelevant. That it has sufficient span is all that matters.
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gm 3 bars are only 36 bux
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For the obd0 just dake a dremmel and cut away on the backside. Ive done it 2 times, works good for me. Then I had some left over window weld after some mounts I did, and I just filled it up and smoothed it out. There is a bing of rubbery shit inside the case once you getr into it. So dont wear anything you care about whne your using the dremmel.
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For the obd0 just dake a dremmel and cut away on the backside. Ive done it 2 times, works good for me. Then I had some left over window weld after some mounts I did, and I just filled it up and smoothed it out. There is a bing of rubbery shit inside the case once you getr into it. So dont wear anything you care about whne your using the dremmel.
Really? nice. Can you shed some light on the wiring, is it the same as the obd1 process?
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For the obd0 just dake a dremmel and cut away on the backside. Ive done it 2 times, works good for me. Then I had some left over window weld after some mounts I did, and I just filled it up and smoothed it out. There is a bing of rubbery shit inside the case once you getr into it. So dont wear anything you care about whne your using the dremmel.
Really? nice. Can you shed some light on the wiring, is it the same as the obd1 process?
Well as far as the wiring, I just looked on xenofraud's site. And used the wiring diagram he had, and used my feescale 3 bar and called it a day.
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a little off topic but i was searching around for Motorola Map Distributors and came across this.
http://www.made-in-china.com/products-search/hot-china-products/MAP_Sensor.html (http://www.made-in-china.com/products-search/hot-china-products/MAP_Sensor.html)
an actual website called Made In China figured someone might benefit from the ChinaDM
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That, alibaba, and twenty other sites will put you in touch with chinaman who demands $10K up front no prototypes.
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What is with people thread jacking my shit lately. dumb niggers ???
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Because you only make top notch threads, sir. If the thread is not quality then there is nothing to defile, you see.
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true, haha
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Well i started working on the map sensor finally. All in all it wasn't that bad, took about 20-30 min. Next one i could do in about 10 min but i was flying blind here and didn't want to ruin the case.
Here is the top of the case, where you need to remove the sealant and cut open the metel case inside.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi71.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi123%2Fmattgroshong%2Fobd0mapsensormod3bar001.jpg&hash=83349f04ae7768e2925ac5b4a40ff565bd1d7744)
Here is the bottom of the case. This is left alone.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi71.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi123%2Fmattgroshong%2Fobd0mapsensormod3bar002.jpg&hash=ff78d04b04ad51197847836aa2e5403e91cca970)
This is after i cut open the case and gutted everything out of it. (everything gets removed minus the 3 posts in the center)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi71.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi123%2Fmattgroshong%2Fobd0mapsensormod3bar003.jpg&hash=bed354ca336ae0d8c41d43890f08ad14ccc17a50)
Here is the gutted case with the new 3bar map sensor next to it.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi71.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi123%2Fmattgroshong%2Fobd0mapsensormod3bar005.jpg&hash=70b6a5ddaa99fe19d87c0615daa47051304e409b)
And here you can see the map sensor in place. there is an oring that seals the sensor nipple. It fits perfectly in the hole.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi71.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi123%2Fmattgroshong%2Fobd0mapsensormod3bar006.jpg&hash=d68fc7303b35909ebfd27ea85ab5f6a92b62ef5d)
Now i will take the map sensor to the local tv repair place to have some wire soldered onto the leads. As i'm uncapable and do not have a good enough soldering gun/iron to do this.
I will update when i finish it up.
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does anyone know a good epoxy or something along that lines that i can use to fill the space after everything is soldered?
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Window weld. Thats what I used.
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Hot glue works.
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does anyone know a good epoxy or something along that lines that i can use to fill the space after everything is soldered?
I recommend RTV.
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O0 rtv then put some JB on it to just finish the sealing
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I recommend RTV.
go to menards/home depot/fleet farm (WI and MN only i think)/lowes, etc and go to the fireplace/heating section. they sell black RTV in a 10oz caulk tube for about $4-6. that's what i use to pot the MAP sensors i make. it's the same as auto RTV, but is way cheaper than the $6/3oz.
also, has anyone found anything that actually removes that GOO inside the housings? i've never found anything that can dissolve it.
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also, has anyone found anything that actually removes that GOO inside the housings? i've never found anything that can dissolve it.
I havent found anything realy that gets rid of it eather. It fucking sucks because it gets metal shavings in it and then if your using a dremmal like I do it flings that shit everywre and your gona get metal slivers for sure.....lol
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it's like indestructable snot.
brake fluid was slightly effective at getting it not to stick to the plastic so i could ball it up. carb cleaner had no effect. acetone had no effect. denatured alcohol had no effect. mineral spirits, goo gone, brake cleaner, trichloroethane, none of it worked. aircraft remover/paint stripper ate away the housing before it did anything to the goo.
shit is nasty.
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i just used a pick out of my tool box and an old needle nose pliers to smash up the board and removed most goo in 10 min. wasn't to big of a deal. But then again i didn't use a cut off wheel on my dremel, i use a metal cutting bit, and destroyed it in the process.
Yeah we have fleet farm here in fargo, nd. good prices there.
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Well i just got this finished up and i think it turned out pretty nice.
well the tv repair guy soldered it up nice.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi71.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi123%2Fmattgroshong%2Fobd0mapsensormod3bar001-1.jpg&hash=945e9659b132114aa7f428b47cae85a365a0f41c)
Here i filled it up with black rtv.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi71.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi123%2Fmattgroshong%2Fobd0mapsensormod3bar003-1.jpg&hash=c98bcb5defaa6bbd8c504325f7813bb54b3e7032)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi71.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi123%2Fmattgroshong%2Fobd0mapsensormod3bar004-1.jpg&hash=ddaad3dc4fa59677287086b717b45f94cda080c7)
Thanks guys for the help. :noel:
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i think i would have just painted a gm sensor black, looks close enough to the stock one.
looks good though, does it work?
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I haven't tested it yet but i see no reason why it wouldn't. :'(
See i liked the oem sensor and well this cost me $26 to have doen and no need to wire anything.
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Looks like a job well done, looks a lot easier than I imagined. You double checked it was wire right I hope. That would be an extra bitch to remvoe & replace all that new goo. I think that goo is butyl rubber in the obd1 cases, and there really isn't anything that will remove it.
I don't use RTV for sensors anymore. I prefer epoxy that's labeled for plastic, although all epoxy will work with practically any plastic. I've had 1 rtv'd sensor I had to re-do after pressure testing, but maybe I'm just OCD. It was like 10 bubbles a minute at 40psi, and I wasn't happy with that.
BTW was that like a metal shell under that goo?
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Looks like a job well done, looks a lot easier than I imagined. You double checked it was wire right I hope. That would be an extra bitch to remvoe & replace all that new goo. I think that goo is butyl rubber in the obd1 cases, and there really isn't anything that will remove it.
I don't use RTV for sensors anymore. I prefer epoxy that's labeled for plastic, although all epoxy will work with practically any plastic. I've had 1 rtv'd sensor I had to re-do after pressure testing, but maybe I'm just OCD. It was like 10 bubbles a minute at 40psi, and I wasn't happy with that.
BTW was that like a metal shell under that goo?
Yes i have my concerns with the rtv,but only time will tell.
Yes the obd0 has some sort of steel shell that is glues into the case and covered in the hard rubber. i had an easy time ripping out the rubber but the steel was a bitch.
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And here you can see the map sensor in place. there is an oring that seals the sensor nipple. It fits perfectly in the hole.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi71.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi123%2Fmattgroshong%2Fobd0mapsensormod3bar006.jpg&hash=d68fc7303b35909ebfd27ea85ab5f6a92b62ef5d)
Where is the O ring, is it from the guts of the old internals? so you put this O ring around the 3bar stem and it fits in the tube of the old one nice and snug with no trimming correct??? I have some extra obd-0 sensors laying around i might try this.
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the o-ring is in the sensor case where i placed the map sensor. It's oem and is used to seal the stock map sensor. It just plop's in the hole where the stock sensor sat. when you take it apart you will see what i mean.
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the o-ring is in the sensor case where i placed the map sensor. It's oem and is used to seal the stock map sensor. It just plop's in the hole where the stock sensor sat. when you take it apart you will see what i mean.
cool ill start taking 1 apart and see whats up here in a few days.