:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: Conceptz-X on October 12, 2011, 11:33:23 PM
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She started with pretty much a bare chassis, one shock, no seat, gas tank, skis, or engine. 430 miles on the chassis when I took ownership
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/155170_177003585644822_100000055465864_613451_11552_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/148411_177003462311501_100000055465864_613448_2765122_n.jpg)
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Got ahold of a HTG 990 twin and D&D pipe from a F1000 Arctic Cat
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/148555_178705732141274_100000055465864_623828_7821270_n.jpg)
Getting an idea on intercooler mounting
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/155230_178704362141411_100000055465864_623812_1954997_n.jpg)
more ideas...
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/76090_178619995483181_100000055465864_623250_2765516_n.jpg)
Custom Y-Pipe made from a F1000 Y-Pipe
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/155274_179740662037781_100000055465864_631403_7654082_n.jpg)
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Powder Coated Chain Case and Secondary Clutch
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/155848_179740602037787_100000055465864_631401_7230617_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/166344_187589051252942_100000055465864_689668_1015950_n.jpg)
Rear Suspension before and after powder coating
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Ran it last season on motor
(https://s-hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/168049_197275576950956_100000055465864_757726_6707565_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180462_197275633617617_100000055465864_757728_2886670_n.jpg)
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/168399_197275950284252_100000055465864_757731_1734159_n.jpg)
Polished steering components
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/166667_197275936950920_100000055465864_757730_4741256_n.jpg)
New Skis
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180378_198355000176347_100000055465864_764577_2248260_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180640_198355160176331_100000055465864_764578_7431296_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/180160_202425589769288_100000055465864_794955_1106199_n.jpg)
Popped it!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180060_197442896934224_100000055465864_758987_1296125_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/167288_197391990272648_100000055465864_758503_1270516_n.jpg)
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(https://s-hphotos-sea1.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/179665_197399170271930_100000055465864_758642_3850571_n.jpg)
[imghttps://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/179348_197397580272089_100000055465864_758629_3327075_n.jpg[/img]http://(https://s-hphotos-sea1.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/181917_197397440272103_100000055465864_758623_2013408_n.jpg)
Hurt the cylinder a little
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/167916_197397146938799_100000055465864_758612_3425610_n.jpg)
(https://s-hphotos-sea1.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/167625_197394970272350_100000055465864_758539_4807763_n.jpg)
Took the internal stinger out of the pipe
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/179340_197393130272534_100000055465864_758513_7017623_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/168134_197414236937090_100000055465864_758716_4981278_n.jpg)
Using a MicroSquirt for the fuel injection and the stock ignition. Added a MSD GM twin tower coil for more secondary voltage as the stock Polaris coils are known for being weak.
More work toward some BOOST!
I hand rolled the diverging cone for the pipe to the specifications of the original one and fitted it to clear the intercooler. Used the old one to modify the muffler.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/197326_207210575957456_100000055465864_826939_8241211_n.jpg)
Only thing you can see from the exterior, the exposed stinger tube
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/198591_208178322527348_100000055465864_833644_4423539_n.jpg)
Original idea
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/199991_208179342527246_100000055465864_833664_2515805_n.jpg)
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Custom intake manifold
Used a throttle body from a 03 SRT4
(https://s-hphotos-sea1.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/184024_263797216965458_100000055465864_1124593_4819106_n.jpg)
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CDM BOV
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/304121_282378125107367_100000055465864_1196749_74900300_n.jpg)
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[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/300468_292392000772646_100000055465864_1236614_1342438164_n.jpg)
Installed a tunnel cooler from an 05 REV 1000 with a 162" track for extra cooling capacity
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Custom taillight from a GM Suburban
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/74280_177281452283702_100000055465864_615215_4502746_n.jpg)
real CF taillight delete
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/155773_177280768950437_100000055465864_615191_7144774_n.jpg)
Turbo oil pump, takes place of the oil injection pump
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/74097_175522972459550_100000055465864_606351_2056690_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/73896_175522939126220_100000055465864_606350_4152113_n.jpg)
Went through the TD04L from a STI
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/73761_175522935792887_100000055465864_606349_3188196_n.jpg)
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Hurt the cylinder a little
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/167916_197397146938799_100000055465864_758612_3425610_n.jpg)
Ever have luck honing a burnt 2-smoke cylinder? I never have.
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a berry hone will do a little, you need special diamond stones to really cut into Nikasil coatings
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Fucking Hot!!
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Final installed the cooler
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Nice glad to see progress on this, now that we are moving into that season again. :noel:
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Lookin great, how do you like those slydogs?
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Slydog's are awesome, turn like C&A Pro's for less money.
It runs, I'm having a little trouble with the crank signal, I piggybacked off the stock trigger, figured it was worth a try. I'll be installing a dedicated sensor for the fuel injection, I already have the reluctor wheel installed as I was planning on running that way.
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Opened up a hole in the bellypan to allow for more airflow to the intercooler
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/407376_335765223101990_100000055465864_1380507_1540453126_n.jpg)
Trim panel and blacked out air dam for the intercooler
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/374350_335941383084374_100000055465864_1380999_132952408_n.jpg)
Ground the starter and mag housing to weld in a tab for the crank sensor
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/394950_335763876435458_100000055465864_1380503_1340784308_n.jpg)
I hate welding older cast aluminum, did what I could without preheating or removing the mag housing from the engine, not to mention working around coolant and oil hoses.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/402839_335763723102140_100000055465864_1380502_375079389_n.jpg)
Fabbed up a fuse block mount that helps hide some of the wiring
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Looked up the specs on the sensor I had, its not fast enough for the 36-1 tooth crank wheel so I will be getting one from diyautotune.com Hopefully getting her tuned and maybe on the dyno by next weekend. No snow on the ground here yet, so I'm not losing any ride time just yet.
I also believe I am going to have to make a drain hose for the outlet side of the turbo, the orientation I used will allow spent two stroke oil to pool in the housing and likely leak out. I'll probably just make a small hose that runs to the muffler so that oil leakage from the system is kept to a minimum.
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Opened up a hole in the bellypan to allow for more airflow to the intercooler
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/407376_335765223101990_100000055465864_1380507_1540453126_n.jpg)
If your riding is anything like our riding I would rivet a piece of expanded metal over that opening, to keep things like tree's from going through the intercooler.
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Nothing crazy like that here, I plan on doing something to cover it I have yet to figure out what though.
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Nothing crazy like that here, I plan on doing something to cover it I have yet to figure out what though.
Aluminum expanded metal. Rivet it on and rock out.
Brine04 and I are going mountain riding most of next week, I will try to remember to snap some pics.
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Nothing crazy like that here, I plan on doing something to cover it I have yet to figure out what though.
Aluminum expanded metal. Rivet it on and rock out.
Brine04 and I are going mountain riding most of next week, I will try to remember to snap some pics.
Sweet, please do. Its probably what I will be going with. I need to find a way to make it look nice though. Trying to make everything look professional so I can cash in on it when the time comes.
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Nothing crazy like that here, I plan on doing something to cover it I have yet to figure out what though.
Aluminum expanded metal. Rivet it on and rock out.
Brine04 and I are going mountain riding most of next week, I will try to remember to snap some pics.
Sweet, please do. Its probably what I will be going with. I need to find a way to make it look nice though. Trying to make everything look professional so I can cash in on it when the time comes.
Weld an aluminum flat stock frame to it, round the corners, have it powder coated black. It will look like it belongs.
We will be riding in the blue river / valemount area. Probably some of the best snow / riding areas Canada has to offer.
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I can get that done easy enough, a friend of mine has a wicked sign shop and can punch out a perfect bezel for me with his CNC table. Now I have to think about it and maybe make the hole bigger. Only cut it to that size to see how it was going to look (trying to keep it from being too obvious). I'll probably even add a diverter to it to help manage the airflow to the intercooler better.
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I've used an $18 Honeywell sensor with good success. Not sure what rpms you're spinning to, though, never used this one past 7K.
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8200, we have spun these engines up to 9400 so I'm just getting the sensor that I know will work. its only about $40 shipped.
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Why, when you could save $15 and live dangerously??
Oh, yeah. I missed it before in the wall of pictures because I was on my phone. Be careful of the china BOV, a lot of them come open under boost because they suck. Pressure test the system before firing it is my advice, and if everything's good then test again later because a lot of those gates and BOVs run untempered "springs" so you flex them a few dozen to a few hundred times and they permanently deform.
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Why, when you could save $15 and live dangerously??
You are probably being sarcastic, but just to be clear to people who think you are not. I am not sure where the OP rides, but where we ride, there is a good chance if the sled breaks down, you need a helicopter to get it out. Not worth it to have any parts that "may" work on the sled.
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Why, when you could save $15 and live dangerously??
You are probably being sarcastic, but just to be clear to people who think you are not. I am not sure where the OP rides, but where we ride, there is a good chance if the sled breaks down, you need a helicopter to get it out. Not worth it to have any parts that "may" work on the sled.
If it didn't work it'd break up past a certain RPM, all of the time, every time. I was more interested in giving Jordan a headache during tuning, but by god if I can get him stuck up shit creek without a paddle then I'm all for it.
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Also, FUCK YOU
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Why, when you could save $15 and live dangerously??
You are probably being sarcastic, but just to be clear to people who think you are not. I am not sure where the OP rides, but where we ride, there is a good chance if the sled breaks down, you need a helicopter to get it out. Not worth it to have any parts that "may" work on the sled.
If it didn't work it'd break up past a certain RPM, all of the time, every time. I was more interested in giving Jordan a headache during tuning, but by god if I can get him stuck up shit creek without a paddle then I'm all for it.
As much as I'd love to save money, I am using a stock ignition on this so any break up would be the loss of fuel pulses. Not cool. I have a sensor that might work but Omron rates it for only .6khz.
I figure 36 teeth x 9000 RPM = 324000 pulses per minute / 60 seconds = 5400 hz or 5.4khz
Its just not worth the risk in my eyes. The one diyautotune.com sells is rated for 15khz should be good and safe.
I mostly ride trails, nothing too crazy around here but it still sucks when you break down. Getting a tow isn't usually easy, and engine parts aren't always cheap. $150 a piston, $340 a cylinder at my cost for this machine.
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Oh, yeah. I missed it before in the wall of pictures because I was on my phone. Be careful of the china BOV, a lot of them come open under boost because they suck. Pressure test the system before firing it is my advice, and if everything's good then test again later because a lot of those gates and BOVs run untempered "springs" so you flex them a few dozen to a few hundred times and they permanently deform.
I'll keep an eye on it.
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Sensor came in, I have no idea what my issue is, the rpm shows erratic in the tuning software and runs accordingly. I'm about to cut the 36-1 wheel down so that its just a 2 tooth wheel at 10 or so degrees BTDC. I've done all I can think of to eliminate noise, and looking at the tooth datalog, it appears that the signal just drops out. Maybe I got a shitty sensor? I can use the other sensor with 2 teeth if needed. I'll be back on the project tomorrow, supposed to get up to 10 inches of snow in the next 2-3 days.
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What air gap?
I like resolution when at all possible. You can cut a 36-1 wheel down to a 12 tooth wheel and implement a single ref sync for a 12+1 affair. I'd do that first.
Hit up Fred, he can help with the MS GRIDS.
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Should it matter that much when running as fuel only? My setup runs the injectors spraying into the manifold toward the intake runner, fuel will pool in the runner and to a lesser degree the manifold when the reed valve is closed and be atomized once the valve opens and draws air and fuel into the crankcase.
I like resolution as well, I just feel the speed varies too much during each revolution for the ECU to determine the missing tooth location. Maybe go to a 36-2 or 36-3?
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Got tired of dicking around, I cut all but 2 teeth off the wheel (TDC's), now its running with no apparent trigger errors. I'm working on getting it dialed in, I will likely spend a lot of the weekend getting it sorted out. More pix and vids coming soon.
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Somebody turn on the fucking snow machine! The ground has yet to get a solid freeze here, Lake Erie won't even get an icepack this year. This winter blows. We have no snow so I can't do shit. FUCK!!!
[/rant]
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I feel your pain, I can't even go ditch banging, as it is so warm here we have no snow at all either. It was +14 (~57F) this weekend, I was out in a t shirt.
Have to go venture into the mountains to find any snow this year.
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I'm waiting for a friend to finish a motor so we can make a day out of dynoing my sled and his new motor. I'll post up when I have some more info.
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Going pump gas or race gas?
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pump gas, this is my trail sled I need to be able to fill it up anywhere.