:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: JaredKaragen on March 09, 2012, 07:10:11 PM
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So as some may know I am in the process of building a California compliant jdm spec GSR engine. Plans for the engine are to drop it in my DelSol and turbo. I have all necessary parts to make my car SMOG and BAR complient to re-VIN the car for the engine.
I recently picked up a Ching Chong turbo off one of my tuning customers; it is basically a 45 trim.
I believe I hit all the estimate numbers correctly and conservatively on the turbo calculator.
400hp map: (I can dream on this 45 trim, but it is theoretically possible)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi26.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fc115%2FJaredKaragen%2Fphoto-181.png&hash=abc002a89dcb70f99a8b150a141e03b85bb7f19f)
I am interested on a few opinions. I have tuned many "B"s, but never built and owned one.
The parts:
USDM 95 Integra GSR B18C1 (OBD1)
USDM '99 P72 Head: exhaust ported
JDM P72-00 Pistons+Rods
USDM OBD1 P72 Intake
T3/T04E 45 trim
4BAR MAP sensor (I've had forever, might as well use it)
The list of parts undecided on:
Turbo Manifold
Injectors (to be matched to turbo/power needs, 800-1kcc most likely)
Transmission (long gears with high boost is really nice)
Does anyone have any logistical opinions on the items being used? (again, with the higher c/r I should be able to see the hp I desire) Any pro/con's?
I frankly don't have the $$$ to spend on forged pistons/rods, so I will rely on the oem parts to handle that much power. I know it's on the borderline but I am confident in my tuning ability to not blow it up easily. If you have a source to a cheap alternative I may be able to do it.
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I wasn't aware you could bar/smog/etc an engine that had a non-carb turbo kit on it.
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+1 better find or make a sticker that uses the edelbrock carb # for a b series kit that should do it
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I wasn't aware you could bar/smog/etc an engine that had a non-carb turbo kit on it.
I always have a plan for that. It will be built, installed, BAR'd, then the turbo kit installed. If I get in trouble, remove turbo+manifold, bring to BAR, get signed off, and spend the 2 hours to put it back on.
I always make a way to remove and cap off lines easily.
For smog; it will pass as I can tune it on our machine at work, and if it ever gets a test only flag I know a tech that will just run it and pass visual.... But it takes so little time I just take the kit off to smog.
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Pony up some bribe money for auto pass and not give a single fuck?
:evil:
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Pony up some bribe money for auto pass and not give a single fuck?
:evil:
why pony up cash when it takes soo little time to return to stock? plus having the BAR plate is a big middle finger to any CHP that pulls me over.... and a BAR re-vin doesn't cost much at all, and as far as smog we have a bar98 machine in our shop, are licensed to do smogs, and have a good friend who owns a test-only shop... no bribes needed... maybe a beer or two.
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Came home from Santa Rosa today with a gsr trans and axles in trade for $180 in tuning work :)
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Came home from Santa Rosa today with a gsr trans and axles in trade for $180 in tuning work :)
That's a deal for sure
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Since I've been burned on a crank and 3 heads, he cut me a deal. I also told him if it was ok I'd bring him some $$$ on top :)
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Due to unavailability of the crank; I am switching routes a little:
Ls crank/rods, and the p72-00 pistons that I have on my gsr rods.
A little compression bump; what I am after on this build anyways.
I am trying to go for higher compression boost anyways, but when I go forged I plan to start at 11:1
I have AvGas at my disposal so anything up to 13:1 won't be a problem at all with the turbo.
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Brought home a '94 B18C1 bottom end that had failing rings.
Ordered DelSol shift linkage from the dealer.
I think the t-bracket, trans upper and front mounts, and power steering upper mount.
Block and head will hit the machine shop tomorrow most likely.
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Fuck yeah! So u just plan on doing a basic rebuild then boost?
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yup; unless I can get forged rods/pistons on the RHMT cheap status...
I have JDM P72-00 pistons and rods to use if that doesnt happen....
but I would be happy for boosting a higher compression 180Hp B18C =)
FYI;
The head is ported... so its already a bump off stock... plus the (supposedly) ITR cams that came with my original P72 I took in trade.
Block is off to the shop next pretty soon!
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Take some pics of the lines on the cam to see if they are itr cams.
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/temp/VtecCams.htm (http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/temp/VtecCams.htm)
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I still have yet to dig up the cams... But I'll see; I may have two pairs.
I haven't had time for anything; haven't even taken the new donor block apart and measured everything.
Need to do work; if I wasn't already working I would be able to!
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Pony up some bribe money for auto pass and not give a single fuck?
:evil:
why pony up cash when it takes soo little time to return to stock? plus having the BAR plate is a big middle finger to any CHP that pulls me over.... and a BAR re-vin doesn't cost much at all, and as far as smog we have a bar98 machine in our shop, are licensed to do smogs, and have a good friend who owns a test-only shop... no bribes needed... maybe a beer or two.
(https://encrypted-tbn1.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTYFYmQn_arURn2m6cjxvMUYtRfs8FRJtLvYdBtCns0d3KFOZyG9A)
Believe they call that "winning like a boss"
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Got shit done.
Need to do more shit.
Will report back.
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Work started.
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B18c1 crank install - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypEG4MBpaOA#ws)
Work done for today. Started at four by getting engine stand bolts and away I went.
All mains are at 1.5 thou, same with rods. Couldn't ask for more.
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looking good. valvecover came out nicely! :noel:
plastigauge? this is RHMT, bolt that shit down and see if it spins O0
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looking good. valvecover came out nicely! :noel:
plastigauge? this is RHMT, bolt that shit down and see if it spins O0
Haha... I want the internals to last... everything on the outside is easy to change...
but the VC looks godly in the sun. Such an awesome color.
If I get up at a decent hour ill transport the rest of the engine parts to the shop and bolt the head on; get some compression in this bitch.
Still need trans mount TOB and release fork for trans.
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bah, i did the same for my B18C5 in the ITR. lol. just tq first cap to 20lbs, spin, next, spin..... keep going till final tq. if they are good parts they should be fine.
if it was in the motor to begin with (like my K24) i wouldnt even think about checking it.
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bah, i did the same for my B18C5 in the ITR. lol. just tq first cap to 20lbs, spin, next, spin..... keep going till final tq. if they are good parts they should be fine.
if it was in the motor to begin with (like my K24) i wouldnt even think about checking it.
The bearings I pulled out...
Holy cow...
Ive never seen such a ... patina before. Best way to describe it. Showed some oil breakdown scarring (excessive oil change intervals) but nothing major at all. All journals measured to each other which was a bonus (minus the outer mains); and every single bearing came out to .0015 literally... no joke. When I took this block in trade for a retune, his report was "it burned some oil, so I did a B20VTEC (the retune), and the B20V burned oil the same too... (stem seals).... but it did its damage; he let it sit outside a little... got a little wet in the jugs, but it ball honed out very nicely. PErfect for re-ring and go. P2W was tapering wider ad it got closer to cylinder 1... so theres a ~.0005 or so between 1-4 cylinders... not shabby for a OEM bore. I could re-ring again to STD if I wanted from the looks of it.
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All together; valves adjusted, etc. need a upper radiator hose outlet, clutch release fork, and throwout bearing ASAP.
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ready to drop in or what?
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Acura still owes me:
Emissions label
Clutch release fork and spring
My trans mount I jewed up is totally torn...
Looking for an old tube of silly-cone I have to fill the bitch.
Otherwise; I have enough parts to install it in my car and drive it; but;
I'd rather get the correct catalyst so I have a place to screw in the oem o2 for breakin. Theres no o2 port anywhere else. That's another $108 away. I can hold out.... Want this bitch to run and be right so it lasts and takes all the abuse I'll be feeding it.
But I got all the unicorn parts finally. It's just piddly shit. Just picked up the radiator hose and oil cooler oring kit. Thinking of ordering coolant hoses for cooler from the dealer; do en while they are easy. I basically haven't cheaper out other than by acquiring the actual parts for pennies.
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Next on list:
Fill trans mount with sillycone
Pick and pull an actual DOHC alternator with lower bracket. Unless someone has this.
Order gsr catalytic converter
In that order.
Cat is only $108 thru autozone last I checked online.
I could install right now, but wanna fill the mount and be able to break in the fresh motor without a CEL.
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DO WORK!
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LMK when you need 800cc injectors, I will hook you up.
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I will for sure.
Today was a lazy day in the rain. On my way home I'll stop by the airport and see if I still have that silicone tube.
I wanna see this shit done yesterday!
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Looks like solid work but I have some thoughts.
11:1 400hp stock piston daily driving? I wouldn't. Not saying it isn't possible but there are too many variables in daily driving.
You will hate that avgas pretty quick when you are changing/cleaning your plugs every time you fill the tank. Lead builds up on the plugs fast from avgas. I have a hookup on free avgas and I won't run it in my dedicated track car. It's meant for making torque below 3k rpm in very big bore motors.
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I'm definitely not going to dd it in the high hp tune; maybe now and then.
As far as the plugs; I've had to walk that road before. Secret is tuned very lean under cruise, burns most off and requires less upkeep.
I just find it a better alternative to rediculous prices.
Maybe I'll just tune it on moonshine...
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Update: worked a lot today; traveled to Santa rosa and tuned cars. Picked up a set of 97 gsr cams that are mint for $60; so I get to toss out the b16 cams.
Guy who sold the cams may have all the misc bracketry for alt and p/s, plus an alternator I need to get her all in. Gonna buy a trans mount probably (made $ in tunes), brand new timing belt, and get the swap assembled on the shop floor tomorrow I hope.
*crosses fingers*
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Cams are in. B16 cams are out. Accessories bolted on, valves re adjusted, etc.
Bringing the transmission and driveline parts to the shop tomorrow to assemble; as well as get some transmission-to-engine bolts as I forgot them past trip to the junkyard.
Trans mount was filled using a tube of rtv45 I had lying around. Pics of that tomorrow.
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Went to Santa Rosa today (yesterday, haven't slept yet) to check out a poor mans built type r for my customer before he bought it.
He hooked me up with a 92' (appears to be) non VTEC harness. So when I got home I went through the harness replacing damaged wires, missing plugs, and also adding the provisions for my motor.
Man.... Took a while. It didn't have a map plug, and the vss plug was cut off along with dizzy plugs. Good thing I'm a competent solderer, and already know wire locations for civics because this harnes had a lot of non-standard 93+ wire colors. (Honda switched manufacturing plants in 93')
Managed to sort out every wire, added IAB, knock, VTP and VTS. Need to add a connector where the gsr usually has its pcs wiring, but have those two pins serve the IAB and knock signals to the ecu. It's closer and requires a lot less rewiring which also leaves me to add the other plug to the shock tower. I'm trying to keep a stock look. Hopefully I got the wire lengths right; of not I can cut open the harness coverings and put them where they belong.
So; looks like its a lot nicer than modifying my delsol's harness the day of the swap, should be plug and play when it's time to install.
The mount; still hasn't dried. Damned cold weather.
Gonna pound a shot of moonshine and pass out.
Work done.