:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: speedjunky01 on April 20, 2009, 08:07:57 PM
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well my first two builds were FAIL 00 coupe caught on fire, 99 hatch got rear ended.
onto older and better things!!!
about to pick up a 93 EX 4 door
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has 232k on her, going to boost it untill it blows up (should be pretty quick) and in the meantime I will be building the JDM d15b
wish me luck, 3rd time is the charm?
kit thats going on her
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will have to hack it up a bit so the IC pipes fit the EG.
previous fails:
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Damn I like your old coupe. But I'm an OG 4 door civic gangster too.
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That black coupe looks nice.
yeah it was. . . had a ton of good things done to it. o well WTF can you do
the beaners tried to jip me( WTF else would you expect) so i got the price down to 1000
car is in great shape, very minor and easy to fix body work needed, new batery, new brakes, and axles are needed
not a big deal since i have two space civics sitting around.
this is the ABS model so it came with rear disks as far as i know :D
anyone know what I should be able to swap over from my old suspension/car setup? should be just about everything i assume tie/strut bars are all the same, shocks will work on the eg (tokicko blues) front rotors and pads are the same. dont think illl need anything else
the ABS light is on in the car and it stops poorly feels like the pedal is very soft, will bleed the system with fresh fluid and change the rotors tomorrow, any other ideas on what would cause the light to go on?
my goals are to get the car running very very well and get the suspension/brakes sorted before I delv into boost. The car needs to be prepared for the added stress of being turbo.
I've also decided that ill be redoing my charge pipes/down pipe to make it AC and PS compatible. This kind of car is really hard to find in this good of shape would be a shame to gut the fuck out of it IMO.
/rant . . . . . porn
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ok so a small update, got the alternator swapped out and it runs great now.
onto the suspension, what is compatible off my 99 hatch? I figure all of the mad typeR JDM braces are, but what about the subframe brace for the rear swaybay? turns out this car already has a rear sway, I plan on swapping over the 15mm one and the brace if it fits.
would the camber kit's (front and rear) swap over??
Im also fixing the brakes today, have new disks and hawk HPS pads going on the front. I looked at the back and it has disks from the factory :D will be putting the same on the back when i can. also the lines are very very rotted, would the SS lines off the hatch fit?? the pedal is super soft and the car stops like shit, hope its not as mushy once i bleed the sytem.
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picked up some more aluminized 2.5 bends today, going to face the turbo the other way in order to keep the AC and PS.
not sure about the WG placement right now but ill figure it out when I come to that.
I just finished lowering it with the eibach springs and tokicko shocks, and i put the flat black rota C8's on it pics coming soon.
Also looking for red/clear tails( like the 99-00 ex not ricer shit) black housing fronts, amber corners, fogs, and a front and rear lip, already have sideskirts from my old car. anyone know where i can get this shit from the same seller for a good price on ebay? shipping it all separate is rape
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Looks awesome. Does the wastegate clear with that manifold? I was thinking about picking one up for my car.
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it clears on the EK chassy not sure about the EG should find out tonight or tomorrow for sure
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ordered a pre-loved LSD clutch 6 puck sprung 350ft/lbs
should be perfect once i finish the other motor. d15b with vitaras and FJ custom rods.
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Your wastegate will rub one of the ribbs on the hood... It does on mine..
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Your wastegate will rub one of the ribbs on the hood... It does on mine..
no big deal then, ill just cut some of the ribs away around the gate.
i plan on filling the mounts so movement shouldnt be a big deal
thanks for the heads up though
should have the mani and turbo on it tomorrow afternoon, just waiting on mandrel pipe to ship in so i can start on the DP
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ok so need some advice from you folks.
I found some standard 137mm rods eagle rods and vitaras for a good price.
now im trying to figure out What CR a JDM d15b will have with this setup
using zeal auto calc i input d15 block and crank, as well as z6 head and standard y8 gasket i got 8.27:1 cr
does this account for the pistons sticking out the .022?
hope you guys can help me out on this so i can have a built motor sooner
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Looks good to me unless the vitaras are oversize 0.5mm or 1.0mm.
As long as that d15b is jdm and not usd then yes the 137mm rods would work.
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yup jdm d15b
getting them for about 300 bones shipped :D
trying to lowball the shit out of the guy lol
vitaras have slight scratches on the skirt from poor notching, said they were never ran just mocked up. . . idk getting kinda fishy. . .
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pics please
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got a closer pic, will polish off them never got to rings was only at the very bottom
wither way decent buy for 300 bones even come with new NPR rings
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I pd $60 for Y.C.P. vitaras
pd $20 for rings
pd $100 for used TT rods (same as eagles) w/o bolts
pd $70 for bolts
Total $250 for vitara and rods for my setup
If I can get them that cheap maybe you could talk the guy down to $250 after shipping just maybe. ;D
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yeah after looking at them more closeley they are in new shae aside from super light scratches so a good deal. plus FJ vitaras are slightly better then other( according to himself :-P) but his rods wont require machining and will come with ARP 2000 bolts
what are your oppinions on just re-using the bearings that are in the engine already?
its a very very fresh d15b 30,000 or so on it. although some of it was a little harsh it was always on synthetic and changed ever 3000. IDK Ill end up just buying some from honda most likely, just the d15b is ghay d16 rod bearings and d15 mains
gonna have to pick up 2 sets
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FJ vitara = Y.C.P. vitara > NPR vitaras ;D
If the engines is that fresh just make sure that when using the eagle rods with the old bearing that you still plasti-gauge them first.
Make sure they are still within spec. beacuse you may not like the results later.
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FJ vitara = Y.C.P. vitara > NPR vitaras ;D
If the engines is that fresh just make sure that when using the eagle rods with the old bearing that you still plasti-gauge them first.
Make sure they are still within spec. beacuse you may not like the results later.
yeah i planed on plsting them anyhow. I want to try and just leave the mains alone but i have to take the cap off to tq the rods :-P
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you can see the scratches on the piston way tp the right on the bottom of the skirt, he gave me another close up pic but cant find it.
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Not bad what does the tops look like?
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new nothing on them
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I say go for it. ;D
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I say go for it. ;D
now i just need to find a "how to" on building the motor, gaping rings, TQing everything correctly,i found instructions on notching the block on "theoldone" ECT ECT ECT ECT lol
i have a helms manual for a civic but its for 96-00
also mandrel bends shipped out today :D hope to have the DP and IC pipes done by weeks end
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so reason i got the car for a good price was it needs four new calipers
FUCKING :somb:!!!!
anyway. . . hope that makes the ABS light go off, front and rears now have brembo blanks and Hawk HP+. went to autozone and got new front calipers, bleed the system, the rears arent stoping at all
fronts get cooked when stopng hard but the backs are doing nothing. . .
bleed it many many times still the same results
any ideas on the ABS light? im downloading a pdf of all civic manuals, ill make a torrent and post it once the whole file is loaded
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ABS pump ???
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ABS pump ???
pulled the ABS error code using a paper clip, its code 1 pump motor over run, looking into the helms right now to see wtf that means lol
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if you need some calipers on the front i got a pair of the the oversized front hype-r/prelude vtec calipers i could sell you
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if you need some calipers on the front i got a pair of the the oversized front hype-r/prelude vtec calipers i could sell you
na finally got the right ones from vato-zone :-P they gave me the DX non abs ones, got rear ones too for my troubles for free just cores trade in lol
4 new calipers about 100 bucks not bad :)
car stops like crazy, brakes the stock rubber loose way to easy, almost no fade either. I would highly recomend hawk HP+ pads!!
now just need to get the abs working, looking for a pump on ebay right now.
also GF's grandma has a lift, ill be using it monday for teh boost building :D lots of pics to come
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So it was the pump?
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Damn your making me wanna start on my shit, problem is I gotta wait till next week to wrap up all my parts... !!!!!! GL with build.
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Same as my wifes car, color and all. Same ABS code since day 1. Abs never worked.
I just swapped all the ABS crap out a couple weeks ago. I was getting weak pedal and found a leak at the pump in between the top and bottom halves. It would only leak if you hit the brakes real hard repeatedly. Front calipers were new, rears moved freely.
I bought a new master cylinder for a 90 Integra RS(non abs), went to the junkyard and got the lines and prop valve from a 94 Del Sol Si(4 wheel disc, no abs).
Took ABS pump, wiring, abs fusebox from under hood and abs computer from trunk and threw them in the trash.
Brakes are now responsive and "right there". Before this, the car wanted to lock up in front.
If you look in a chiltons manual it says to take it to a dealership to be bled if it has ABS because it requires special equipment.
Also swapped to a manaul rack but thats a whole nother story......
Good luck with teh boost!!
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So it was the pump?
well played sir
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Damn your making me wanna start on my shit, problem is I gotta wait till next week to wrap up all my parts... !!!!!! GL with build.
do it meaowi like having drum brakes on all 4 wheels and being able to stop 6000lbs of truck as fast as your 2000lb honda
sweet. . . car came stock like this i didnt do the rear disk swap this time. car will be auto-x a lot this summer so disks help keeping it cool and fade resistant
Same as my wifes car, color and all. Same ABS code since day 1. Abs never worked.
I just swapped all the ABS crap out a couple weeks ago. I was getting weak pedal and found a leak at the pump in between the top and bottom halves. It would only leak if you hit the brakes real hard repeatedly. Front calipers were new, rears moved freely.
I bought a new master cylinder for a 90 Integra RS(non abs), went to the junkyard and got the lines and prop valve from a 94 Del Sol Si(4 wheel disc, no abs).
Took ABS pump, wiring, abs fusebox from under hood and abs computer from trunk and threw them in the trash.
Brakes are now responsive and "right there". Before this, the car wanted to lock up in front.
If you look in a chiltons manual it says to take it to a dealership to be bled if it has ABS because it requires special equipment.
Also swapped to a manaul rack but thats a whole nother story......
Good luck with teh boost!!
that sucks hope i get it all to work, i kinda like having ABS. and yeah bleeding it is a pain in the ASS it requires a t-bolt bleeder.
i dont plan on swapping to a manual rack but good luck on your swap.
today i got the manifold on and put the turbo the "other" way, mandrel pipe shipped in off ebay and making this ac and ps compatible is gonna suck some ass. . .
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esi42
you could not have been more right, bleeding these fuckers was a PAIN IN THE ASS holey fuck.
with the car off pedal is stiff as all hell, once the car went on pedal would sink.
i bleed it with the engine on and it is better now. went for a drive and it started sinking as it was heating up, braked hard to heat it all up and rebleed.
did that a few times and finally a solid pedal to forever
waiting on a response for stealthmode since i need a -10an mild steel fitting for the oil pan and some line for the return
hope he can help me out.
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AN fittings in mild steel? i've only seen aluminum.
anyone have a place to get steel ones?
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AN fittings in mild steel? i've only seen aluminum.
anyone have a place to get steel ones?
Any local hydraulic shop (ask for JIC), or most speed shops.
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im gonna have a look around for them but Ive gotten them before from fast-turbo.com
after spending way to much time getting the brakes to work correctly i cranked out a good amount of work today.
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durty D torn down, z6 with 235,000 on her still runs great IDK why or how. . .
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shit was a pain in the ass to get to fit, had to notch the block just a bit and the bolts on the bottom of the manifold sucked to tighten down
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holding the intercooler up with electric tape, needs some notching of the front bumper
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mad tyte JDM intake. dryer venting, kn filter, zip ties for support and electrical tape to make sure it seals around the filter
not really sure how i should clock the turbo to let the feed line and return work right, if i clock the top back towards the block i would need to run the feed between two of the runners, any advice would be nice
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this is gonna be one TIGHT ass downpipe between the compressor and having to make a 180 fit. might need to pie cut it some
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should be running tomorrow if i can figure out the feed line
if anyone could make me a base map would be GREAT!!
setup:
rc440 injectors t3/t4 50 trim, 2.5 pipes all around including DP, stock z6 other wise. im using crome in a p06 converted to vtec
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get a 90 for the feed, clock accordingly
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get a 90 for the feed, clock accordingly
yeah IDK where to get 90's for AN lines localy gonna need to have a look around. . .
i might have some shit laying around though
might just put something around the hose and run in in between the runners if i cant make anything work. . .
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order summit tonight, you'd have it by thrus
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order summit tonight, you'd have it by thrus
yeah they are quick but 10 just for handeling ugh. . . ill poke around tomorrow localy if nothing comes up ill just run it as is
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k got the DP done today, now trying to get the fucking WG tube to work. . . pain in the ass no room at all.
phone is being gay at the moment so no pics, but its a TIGHT ass fit about 3mm or so from touching the AC condenser and had to remove the 5th bolt on the flange it order to get it bolted up.
kinda wish i ran a 2" dp now but hope the power gain is worth it in the end
took one shot at it and it worked was routed back into the exhaust fine, but couldnt remove the fucking thing to finish weld it.
no room for just a dump tube unless i run it up and through the hood lol.
to all the fabricators like wier tech, hats off to you sir, making it all fit and look that nice is freaking ART to say the least
if anyone has pics of how they ran the WG pipe with this setup in an eg would be great if you can post them
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my solution = remove A/C
might have gone internally gated if you wanted to keep it but too late now
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yeah idk ill make it work
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so i got stuff through summit racing to make the oil work, even got the weld on AN fitting. car fired up turboles with the rc440 and my basemap just great idled fairly well too
got the turbo clocked correctly, should be coming together on friday.
still need to notch the block some because as i clock the turbo the cold side touches a little bit.
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didnt take many pics since its night out but i finished up the IC mounting, the hot and cold side of the piping now just waiting on the summit racing packages of AN fitting to make the oil lines work, then its tuning time :D
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the hot side
as far as tuning i got the ostrich and crome to work fine, but cant get datalogging to work for shit!!
-honda log from moates
-baud rate at 38400 on pc and software
-tried using diff com port
-tried friends crome pro, free log on my pc, ecu control on my pc
tomorrow im gonna try my other hondalog for shits and giggles hope it works. . .
any ideas on the issue for datalog?
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did you cut J12?
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did you cut J12?
forgot to add that to the list, but yes j12 is cut ill double check that tomorrow
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hot side charge pipe looks tits!
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hot side charge pipe looks tits!
thanks man flux core ftw
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another update, got everything i can done before the oil lines come in tomorrow. cold side pipes are done, bumper is trimed to fit, IC is mounted up. some pics
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stealth BOV lol
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was tight as hell makig it all fit, open WG for a bit until i can find some of that flexible exhaust pipe stuff at autozone
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z6 + boost = O0
things to do tomorrow:
-oil lines
-heatwrap the DP
-attempt to get the WG routed back in
-setup the LC1
- try and figure out my datalog issues
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well got most of it buttoned up today, ran vac lines, put gaskets on, finished the oil lines ect ect ect
to do tomorrow
-check everything over twice lol
-finish wiring up the LC1 and figure out how to fucking use it with crome
-wire in the turbo timer and the gauges not sure of a good place to put them, dont want to do a pillar any ideas?
-start the tune/ get it to idle at the very least
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glow shift sells some nice swivel pods that can mount damn near anywhere i had them in my crx and they were nice http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2inch-UNIVERSAL-FITMENT-SINGLE-SWIVEL-GAUGE-MOUNT-POD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a4Q7c65Q3a1Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a200QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3ef3f87512QQitemZ270381118738QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2inch-UNIVERSAL-FITMENT-SINGLE-SWIVEL-GAUGE-MOUNT-POD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a4Q7c65Q3a1Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a200QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3ef3f87512QQitemZ270381118738QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
here is a picture of them in my crx mounted on the gauge bezel
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looks nice thanks man might pick up some of those
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ok well wired in the lc1 and calibrated the heater and free air caled it, led is on and stays on constant
hooked up the brown wideband wire to the white o2 wire by the ECU, pluged it all into crome pro and it is logging but there is an issue
the car is running SUPER lean 19:1 or more on the low end, no matter how much fuel i dump in nothing effects it at all. i remember having to change the volts or something from 0-5v to 0-3.8 in crome since the stock ecu cant read over 3.8 or something
is this true? if so anyone have the settings for the LC1 for crome pro 1.18? or any crome pro
also have a small oil leak from the top of the oil restrictor, and it had to be the bolt in the back >:( hard as hell to get an allen wrench in their waiting for the mani to cool off some.
some pics
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oh noes its a stock civic oooooo....RICER
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[borat] NOOOT [/borat]
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it really does seem to be running that rich, car idles better and finaly started to respond once i changed settings some and it warmed up fully
however i do have an oil leak even after taking it all apart and tightening it all :(
fucking function7 restrictor pissed oil like all hell even though its AN fitting :( gonna throw some teflon on it and pray for the best...turbo comming off AGAIN
also crome pro shows the AF readings but it isnt recording them in the rows/columns WTF??
any help is much apreciated
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tried to go on pgmfi.org but it appears to be dead
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crome is working now, but its only recording up to 18:1 since the lc1 is still on 0-5v and crome can only read up to 3.8 or so. its logging fine up top and in the mid range, but it wont log anything in the idle areas at all. any ideas why?
have a few small things to tie up, small fuel leak by the 440's gonna get new o-rings and need to make a vac manifold ASAP, also need to hook up the gauges tomorrow.
its coming along good so far just working the kinks out as always.
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also read over the lc1 manual and it said
0v=7.35afr
5v=22.39aft
therefore
0v=7.35/14.7=.5lambda
5v=22.39/14.7=1.523lambda
so in crome i set it 0v=.500 lambda and 5v=1.523 lambda
only reads up to 3.83 volts according to pgmfi.org so that works out to o about 18 or so
this seem correct?
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got some more done today, made a new new intake out of the stock box, turned out great IMO and IAT's are 40-50 lower too
well here are some pics
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fphotos-ak-snc1%2Fv4712%2F241%2F52%2F563321270%2Fn563321270_3118663_768613.jpg&hash=c36bbd8acbac12828b011e7579e222e172f68d85)
if anyone has a stock kn drop in they want to trade for a kn cone filter w/ 3" opening would be great :D
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fphotos-ak-snc1%2Fv4712%2F241%2F52%2F563321270%2Fn563321270_3118664_4644296.jpg&hash=4f16c184e26b5de150fc741120a6c41ffdb5f5da)
the "mufflers", just gonna run one into the other right out of the downpipe should sound mean as hell 2.5" glasspacks 30" length
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs096.snc1%2F4712_109132101270_563321270_3118665_467389_n.jpg&hash=1adc8db66999132ea483c89ecccce375a313c9f0)
twisted for pleasure
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs096.snc1%2F4712_109132106270_563321270_3118666_6460791_n.jpg&hash=234d1489d82be647ec9025c293967cad6deed9cc)
gonna register, and inspect it after memorial day and finish u the tune
so far i like the power, but the turbo is laggy as all fuck lol. its not too fun on the stock motor but once the vitara build is done it will be great
right now boost is coming in right at around 4500ish and hits hard as hell once it get over 5000 and vtec engages.
its also idling very lean, 18+:1, when fired up cold, gotta play with parameters in crome a little more to get this taken care of
right now its only tuned on low cam, gonna work on the high cam tomorrow afternoon once im out of work.
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Check for exhaust leaks before the o2 because at 18:1 you would have lean pop.
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Check for exhaust leaks before the o2 because at 18:1 you would have lean pop.
im sure it has a leak or two since it was fluxcored :-P most likely pinhole leaks. once i get the WG routed back in im removing it and going over all of the welds again
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To log at idle youll have to adjust the settings in crome. Go to the settings page and click the tuner logging tab. The one with wideband settings. I set tps, lambda, and water temp to zero so it always logs. If you have a crappy laptop, this could cause issues with memory. Add Gear 0 and 1 before the others listed.
On a side note.
I use something called a tunertee. It made by another pgmfi.org member and hes a stand up guy.
www.tunertee.com (http://) (http://)
Its a little black box that goes inline between the hulog, lm-1 and the laptop and combines the DIGITAL lm-1 signal with the datalogging signal from the ecu BEFORE it gets to the laptop. Readings EXACTLY match the lm-1 and you can also get the ecu data into the Logworks2 software(tits!!) Logging in 3d basically. Perfect tunes, no guess work or seat-o-the pants tuning.
Ive never been able to get crome to match afrs with the lm-1 when running analog into the primary o2 pin. Too many variables. It would match at idle and not anywhere else or vise versa.
Thing works great, creator is great guy too so I try to plug it for him whenever I can. They are a little over $100 bucks and he was working on a usb version but I think hes been strapped for time.
Its setup for an LC-1 but you can conver the lm-1 cables so they work.
his name ntc490 on pgmfi.org. Theres a few threads over there about it too.
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im sure it has a leak or two since it was fluxcored :-P most likely pinhole leaks. once i get the WG routed back in im removing it and going over all of the welds again
FAK! I just flux cored my intercooler pipes.....
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im sure it has a leak or two since it was fluxcored :-P most likely pinhole leaks. once i get the WG routed back in im removing it and going over all of the welds again
FAK! I just flux cored my intercooler pipes.....
thats an easy fix, just throw some JB on the welds once they cool then paint. worked great for me
thanks for the tips BTW, helped a lot
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the dual cherry bombs sound really good IMO its loud but doesnt hurt your ears. has a decent deep tone.
also discovered some leaks in the DP after beting on the car for a bit, gonna remove it and reweld it tomorrow
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fphotos-ak-snc1%2Fv4712%2F241%2F52%2F563321270%2Fn563321270_3134966_2774565.jpg&hash=6293e43942e4cb5101734100ad9add1394945e50)
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what was used to cut the support?
post a sound clip of the double bombs once its in.
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what was used to cut the support?
post a sound clip of the double bombs once its in.
the bumper support? i just used a cutoff wheel
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stealth twin loop muffler, sounds AWESOME with the two glass packs quieting it down some
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fphotos-ak-snc1%2Fv4712%2F241%2F52%2F563321270%2Fn563321270_3184143_7703487.jpg&hash=5fba47b0613b73d5f11287defc5a7c5911c9b8e0)
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got the exhaust buttoned up today, painted to keep it from rusting like all hell.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs096.snc1%2F4712_112559531270_563321270_3187776_3156035_n.jpg&hash=a2f295107043144051d7a46c9b168ed19a11f7be)
flux core pwning once again
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fphotos-ak-snc1%2Fv4712%2F241%2F52%2F563321270%2Fn563321270_3187777_5913890.jpg&hash=db79d7846a40ddea74b603a1346295be71f17d91)
painted for protection
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fphotos-ak-snc1%2Fv4712%2F241%2F52%2F563321270%2Fn563321270_3187778_88722.jpg&hash=3cbbe0fc87ab559c271354a037e01825c5ad70c9)
should sound pretty damn good, soundclip coming in a few minutes :D
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http://www.facebook.com/home.php?filter=app_2392950137#/video/video.php?v=112590981270 (http://www.facebook.com/home.php?filter=app_2392950137#/video/video.php?v=112590981270)
quick vid of idle and rev, car is fully warm at the time of vid
still have a leak in the DP and an oil leak fucking function7 POS. . . JB weld to the rescue tonight
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UUUUGH the ebay turbo to manifold gasket is leaking and one of the bolt holes on the bottom of the manifold is striped now due to the gasket blowing and heating it up a lot
WTF :( hope i can helicoil it or something. . . any advice?
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http://www.facebook.com/home.php?filter=app_2392950137#/video/video.php?v=112590981270 (http://www.facebook.com/home.php?filter=app_2392950137#/video/video.php?v=112590981270)
quick vid of idle and rev, car is fully warm at the time of vid
still have a leak in the DP and an oil leak fucking function7 POS. . . JB weld to the rescue tonight
Want to hear it but I have to log in to facebook. :?:
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http://www.facebook.com/home.php?filter=app_2392950137#/video/video.php?v=112590981270 (http://www.facebook.com/home.php?filter=app_2392950137#/video/video.php?v=112590981270)
quick vid of idle and rev, car is fully warm at the time of vid
still have a leak in the DP and an oil leak fucking function7 POS. . . JB weld to the rescue tonight
Want to hear it but I have to log in to facebook. :?:
huh wierd. . . ill put it on youtube
turbo d16z6 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYX4YXRE_1k#lq-lq2-hq-vhq)
there ya go
also have some progress on the WG reroute
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs096.snc1%2F4712_112669461270_563321270_3189514_1140549_n.jpg&hash=0942e3f9effe15c237ba9650680541c1d38e69a4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs096.snc1%2F4712_112669466270_563321270_3189515_8095521_n.jpg&hash=21d1503c7b785625d231f7d259a77fab6d99a9b0)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fphotos-ak-snc1%2Fv4712%2F241%2F52%2F563321270%2Fn563321270_3189516_5951174.jpg&hash=72d0527bc6423b6a29b4af5539b905921ed2af62)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fphotos-ak-snc1%2Fv4712%2F241%2F52%2F563321270%2Fn563321270_3189517_5596858.jpg&hash=1671b121e1666d69b1caceeb080e6942c8e82213)
ghetto as fuck, but will be nice one i weld it and smooth it on the bench grinder
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the new sex pipe :D
routed back in and now the car is dead silent even when doing a hard pull, stealth speed is awesome
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs096.snc1%2F4712_112729131270_563321270_3190526_5119718_n.jpg&hash=36f53e68700531249a4aa5c826ae916a2c2b7888)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fphotos-ak-snc1%2Fv4712%2F241%2F52%2F563321270%2Fn563321270_3190527_5346380.jpg&hash=a702274e35bb4e9b1b0899c66eda135272afde6e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fphotos-ak-snc1%2Fv4712%2F241%2F52%2F563321270%2Fn563321270_3190528_2690812.jpg&hash=ac8a6510fe4a4467806368d1390f38e020d5a2bb)
sorry about the shaky pics, loads of redbull and lack of food make my hands shaky as hell.
hope i can JB weld the leaky oil shut tomorrow, heli coil the broken thread in the CDM manifold, heat wrap everything, and if i can dig up a gasket localy for a t3 turbo this thing will FINALLY be done
wish me luck
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if the JB weld doesnt stop it from leaking NOTHING will lol.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs096.snc1%2F4712_113077046270_563321270_3195403_4895279_n.jpg&hash=ee4a47c7e09c7c44ffde3deab1071a3fadf8b104)
i would also like to retract my fuck you to function7 and their product. apperantly the one my turbo came with is a knock off ( what was i expecting off ebay?) and the real one is a much better product.
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got a bit more work done, now waiting for JB weld to dry and going out to look for a t3 gasket. anyone know what a t3 comes on stock so i can find one at a parts store?
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs096.snc1%2F4712_113119241270_563321270_3195939_3611198_n.jpg&hash=2493f30a48de708773857ffd3578ed99c3f27c5f)
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hope this keeps the ac lines in one piece
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs096.snc1%2F4712_113145526270_563321270_3196320_4848646_n.jpg&hash=99cf198b7d22e6bc9668e07586e2fc90d8a927ea)
and the first victim of boost
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fphotos-ak-snc1%2Fv4712%2F241%2F52%2F563321270%2Fn563321270_3196321_6797365.jpg&hash=f97a1d2e6bdfa09d8b1a05318d984b5768d6044d)
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Try it without a gasket yet? Ive seen it work before.
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what did you expect for a lead gasket? unicorns and minotaurs to come pouring out of your tailpipe?
lol yeah i knew it was coming just not so soon :-P
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Is it on the road then?
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Is it on the road then?
yup I just pulled off the highway to let it cool down a tad.
gonna keep driving it some more later now its lunch :D
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so i got all of the new gaskets in and all the JB weld was holding AWESOME even the turbo manifold stud lol.
then pulling back into the driveway it dies
stock pump just couldnt take it lol walbro going in tomorrow after the lake trip.
also FAB WITH BOLT HOLES IN MIND, this dp/wg/mani combo sucks dick when it comes to ease of access to bolts, need to make some rubber hands to tighten them all down.
for my future build im definetly gonna go with wiertech or go-autoworks AC compatible kit.
__________________
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turbo d16z6 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmNYp9gOvOQ#lq-lq2-hq-vhq)
slips like a mofo, need to figure out why the BOV isnt opening up.
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this fucking SUCKS ASS jb weld has failed me...(i dint want to believe it either)
the stud that was jb'ed in went MIA on me and is nowhere to be found >:(
not sure what im gonna do, but im NOT taking it all apart again. im gonna ghetto whatever i can together so it holds and the gasket doesnt leak.
on the bright side i go a bit more tuning done and the afr's are looking much better then before. still running a tad lean in vac and a tad rich in boost but not too bad overall. the car was pulling great before the bolt let go, while tuning i wasnt paying attention and did a pull in 4th gear, car was off the speedo before i even realized it. gonna set the speed limiter to 95-100 in crome so nothing like that happens again lol.
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this fucking SUCKS ASS jb weld has failed me...(i dint want to believe it either)
the stud that was jb'ed in went MIA on me and is nowhere to be found >:(
not sure what im gonna do, but im NOT taking it all apart again. im gonna ghetto whatever i can together so it holds and the gasket doesnt leak.
on the bright side i go a bit more tuning done and the afr's are looking much better then before. still running a tad lean in vac and a tad rich in boost but not too bad overall. the car was pulling great before the bolt let go, while tuning i wasnt paying attention and did a pull in 4th gear, car was off the speedo before i even realized it. gonna set the speed limiter to 95-100 in crome so nothing like that happens again lol.
This is why street tuning blows ass. Haha. I just got my build done, dirty y8. Only make 161 at 7psi, I was tuned on a mustang dyno but I dunno. Have a wierd ass starting problem as well, but I think I got that figured out. Good luck on getting it wrapped up.
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JB weld fail at high temp. I used it on my fluxcore weld on the downpipe and it cracked.
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this fucking SUCKS ASS jb weld has failed me...(i dint want to believe it either)
the stud that was jb'ed in went MIA on me and is nowhere to be found >:(
not sure what im gonna do, but im NOT taking it all apart again. im gonna ghetto whatever i can together so it holds and the gasket doesnt leak.
on the bright side i go a bit more tuning done and the afr's are looking much better then before. still running a tad lean in vac and a tad rich in boost but not too bad overall. the car was pulling great before the bolt let go, while tuning i wasnt paying attention and did a pull in 4th gear, car was off the speedo before i even realized it. gonna set the speed limiter to 95-100 in crome so nothing like that happens again lol.
This is why street tuning blows ass. Haha. I just got my build done, dirty y8. Only make 161 at 7psi, I was tuned on a mustang dyno but I dunno. Have a wierd ass starting problem as well, but I think I got that figured out. Good luck on getting it wrapped up.
nice thats decent power for that dyno and psi(depending on the turbo)
my setup untuned and running FLILTHY rich at around 10:1 took a wrx making 220whp from a 40 roll so i figure im somewhere around there
yeah JB weld has failed me for the first time. . . :( a bolt is coming off one side of the manifold and it just keeps unscrewing even with a crush washer and blue threadlock any ideas on how to make it stay? at this point im considering putting all the bolts on, then just fluxing them to the studs lol
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if you took a 220hp wrx from a roll you are obviously making 175hp
sounds about right, running on basemap at 10:1 afr's lol
it was 220whp
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well track tomorrow :D
look for the vid soon
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im having issues with the BOV not wanting to open at all. . . not really sure what the issue is.
i took it apart, and the diaphragm is fine/ the two springs inside also seem fine, no cracks or signs of wear.
i replaced the vac line with a very thick and stiff piece of fuel line and no way in hell its collapsing.
its hooked up via tee off the manifold plug for the stock PCV system.
im gonna try to hook it up just straight to the manifold and hope that helps
its a ching chong meow greddy type valve, the recalculation style
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dude common knowledge here. remove the big spring, leave te small spring in it and wheel the adjuster down half way and itll work sweet. i have te chinqueener type s too and that was the ticket.
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dude common knowledge here. remove the big spring, leave te small spring in it and wheel the adjuster down half way and itll work sweet. i have te chinqueener type s too and that was the ticket.
nice, thanks man thats what i was planning on doing when i get some spare time
since the switchover i havent looked the site over nearly as well as the old one since a lot of stuff is gone
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs102.snc1%2F4760_124068421270_563321270_3406450_7140632_n.jpg&hash=778f64fb7ec2936ee5d6cb93a955793071572b1f)
took the lip off the 99-00 bumper and it kinda fit, screws and autozone paint and i like it
price=free :D
next im gonna put on the 96-00 side skirts on too soon.
tomorrow the LSD dragged clutch is going in
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got some more work done today, the LSD drager clutch is in :D
and the suspension up front is torn down, had an issue. the bolt holding the LCA broke off :( had to cut a hole in the front subframe to re-weld the nut back on. but now all is well.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs084.snc1%2F5028_104858152749_580737749_2557533_5339092_n.jpg&hash=bef5f0a259703a90e4283c675adb03223f8fb061)
sacroficed an old DX tranny that used to grind a bit to make a clutch alignment tool LMAO
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i have a d-si trans
buy it
why? have a perfectly good 92-95 ex in it, the dx wad an extra
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i have a d-si trans
buy it
why? have a perfectly good 92-95 ex in it, the dx wad an extra
closer ratios are your friend
5th gear Si on the highway is not lol
i've been wanting to build a tranny for a while. if it wad an LSD and a good rebuild
i would snag it
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na im set thanks man, im builting the ex trans out of my wrecked car.
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got the bitch lowered and done tonight, small leak in the exhaust :(
helicoiled the cast mani and all is done and holds well, now the DP is leaking :-P gonna tighten the piss out of the bolts.
but anyway here are some shitty pics for the night. better ones going up in a day or two.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs173.snc1%2F6491_127081161270_563321270_3469669_4845274_n.jpg&hash=089c1f27c3de2cb3ee8c9b02fdecf15956dd912d)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs193.snc1%2F6491_127081166270_563321270_3469670_2468785_n.jpg&hash=d2b28dc682f83ee4e280968f6ccb19317b7a0fc6)
the lip is a little low but not to bad. i like the drop. has one finger gap between tire and fender, juuuuust right
since this thread doesnt have enough porn, here is something to inspire the rest into posting m0ar
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Faycu31.webshots.com%2Fimage%2F13830%2F2003431866706229618_rs.jpg&hash=a204a31f3caf9a3cd3ac7063c87c5ed766f17331)
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good stuff
i like your coupe
any pics of current ride
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good stuff
i like your coupe
any pics of current ride
yes look above the post you made lol
its my fo' do' son
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got bored today, here is what happened
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F100_2484.jpg&hash=ae233ebf5b97c642fae740cb6dd56ebf35a6b72c)
for more info check out my thread here
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=4111.0 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=4111.0)
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2Fslip.jpg&hash=f2b381df07d2993a585b0f16d0c49b924ac0eb76)
finaly got it to the track, not sure how well you can see but night started with a 2.7 60 and a 15.6 run :-P not impressed, but didnt expect much better since its been raining in NH for the past month.
got the numbers down some at the end
2.3 60
14.8@94
ran into issues thoug, the DP is leaking by the turbo so couldnt log any of my runs, tune consists of 1.15 ignition retard per psi and 185% efficiency, 440cc at about 90% duty cycle at 7000rpm, fully loaded 4dr with spare,jack and extra qt of oil, stock PCV, tire pressure whatever you get from tires sitting in the garage over the winter
ordering some flanges from wier, redoing the DP, removing the super restrictive twin glasspacks that are about 1.5" on the inside and adding and e-cutout
porn to make up for my slow ass times
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjailbaitgallery.com%2Fresized%2F1177279902963.jpg&hash=3e227584bc629485a10eb9c42e0d1a6e29a4d8b2)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjailbaitgallery.com%2Fresized%2Fyoungins11.jpg&hash=7b1e5d70ad07adf2187052aa16eeb15f1709d1c2)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftattoo.girlpower.it%2Fwp-content%2Fgallery%2Fsuicide-collection%2Fsuicide-girls-quinne-reagan-2005.jpg&hash=46d93d8304c00ba8427e35fb5da27ab757c41487)
hope i can knock them down some with the new DP and a half ass tune
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small update
first victim of boost, axle on the pass side. luckily i had extra sets from my other civic
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F100_2506.jpg&hash=ca2b4adb011ff018e0ce34685e04db126cec94b6)
decided to get rid of the resonators, these were to restrictive car just wouldnt breath up top felt like it was choking up top. so a trip to low's and found a nice 2.5" fence post for 7 bucks
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F100_2508.jpg&hash=b8171d65b04ce007b94dabf43af4148b3462483e)
ill update more once the e-cout out arives and the flanges from wier tech
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F100_2511.jpg&hash=da4d5595563617b3fcf1525f2d5656665b8b1862)
i figure it will just clearance its self as I drive it lol
car sounds much much better and pulls a lot harder also, the resonators were a bad choice for this setup. once the cutout opens it just sounds crazy lol
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well went to the track on an ideal day to hope it would get a better time, was 100* that day so the track was super sticky, new england dragway is at sea level so its got pleanty of good air. was about 70* when the track opened at dusk.
took it up the thr line, hitting anti-lag at 5300 about 7psi, pull the e-brake up, let the clutch out a tad to load the car, green light and i launch.
BANG clank clank clank, car was still running so i thought axle. go to the end and get towed home.
so i grabbed a new axle and am in the process of switching it. I look inside the tranny and the thing is blown to fuck on the inside lol.
so now im pulling an all nighter to get her back up by 4am eastern time in order to go to work.
carnage pics to fallow, not a bad run though 230,000on stock and 10,000ish on double the stock power lol.
hope the other high milage tranny holds up better hahah
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you mean 2.375 motheffucker, i am teh fencepost lking
yeah was 2 3/8
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dude common knowledge here. remove the big spring, leave te small spring in it and wheel the adjuster down half way and itll work sweet. i have te chinqueener type s too and that was the ticket.
Same shit I had to do to mine.
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fucking tranny being a total piece of shit and wont go into the clutch like its supposed to
WTF im ready to blow this turd up
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random but make sure the spline count and ID/OD is the same as the old trans.
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random but make sure the spline count and ID/OD is the same as the old trans.
its the same ex tranny b0000 s20 tranny
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its the same ex tranny b000 s20 tranny
fixed
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its the same ex tranny b000 s20 tranny
fixed
thanks too many 0 lol
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ok so 10ish psi is getting old
snagger a turboxs MBC and a motorola 2.5bar
what should i take her up to and not worry about running out of fuel?
RC440 and walbro 255
i was thinking 15psi would be a nice bump for the track, then turn it down to 10 while cruising on the street
with my limited tuning experience, and crome logging afr's slow as fucking PISS up top i might have to dyno the car to keep it from blowing up, right now at the rare ocassion crome feels like logging its recording about 10.8ish once its at full boost
any tips for making it log better? isnt a total shit laptop 2gig ram, windows7, 2.4ghz core2. i have it hooked up and charge in the car so its not on battery saver or anything.
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Reduce the bit rate may help a bit. I know I had problem with that in BRE...
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Reduce the bit rate may help a bit. I know I had problem with that in BRE...
its as low as it goes, no bit change made it better down low but up top in rpm/boost still just about the same
im using the pgmfi obd1 protocol would crom QD2 work better??
car needs a battery no chance to try it out :-P sorry for the noobish questions guys, but the help is greatly appreciated
also got pulled last night by the Po-Po, out of all the shit thats wrong//illegal on the car he gave me a ticket for fucking not using a turn signal on a deserted road, car was open DP and was wicked late lol
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.phearable.net%2Ftech%2Fwiring%2F2.5bar.gif&hash=c47aa19ba0d197d0291d4e012944bec05d54aed2)
does this look correct in order to hook up the 2.5 bar?
i plan on keeping the stock plug as well so if something goes wrong i can plug it back in at a later date. gonna use the crimp connectors or w/e so i dont cut up the stock harness
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for whatever reason car is being a whore and is leaking boost, not known why but wont build more then 3psi all couplers look ok but who knows
testing it tuesday, might redo the cold side pipes to rule out the shitty ebay intake recycled into coldside pipe and cramed onto the pipe
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs267.snc1%2F9429_168180351270_563321270_4121343_4197289_n.jpg&hash=2042d4e7c305e2a3d791985909767ef25d3fcfda)
you like?
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yes i did copy mitsu what of it complex?
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well after the new FMIC i need to redo the charge pipes i went to the local pick n pull and snaged a new air box for a new intake design ive been thinking about
LMK what you think, will have a hole in the bumper where it sits and have a BPI velocity stack to go on the end of the pipe, will put a bit of window mesh or something over it too keep large debris out and the filter inside the tock airbox will do the rest
anyone have any ideas how it would perform in the rain? Im not sure LMK your thoughts on this as well
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs267.snc1%2F9429_176261851270_563321270_4198294_8096772_n.jpg&hash=5cf4817ed475d9946c05a47c4fcdcaf5364c5fc9)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs267.snc1%2F9429_176261856270_563321270_4198295_5465518_n.jpg&hash=fda4c2924d612050a0f0a624b7691975f059f40f)
JB weld FTW!!!!
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got the intake done today chopsaw plus pie cuts=SEX cant believe i didnt notice my pops had a chop saw stashed away earlier would have made life so much easier!!!
pics up soon
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs247.snc1%2F9429_178179871270_563321270_4217146_6053491_n.jpg&hash=f2ba478b877da4ecbc644392a4a739c8c79e1508)
brown only trmp. until i can get some heatwrap and flat black
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs247.snc1%2F9429_178179876270_563321270_4217147_1012569_n.jpg&hash=0fa886987f3172913f134264ca44149511028838)
got the idea now :D
pie cut sex
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs267.snc1%2F9429_178179881270_563321270_4217148_7866147_n.jpg&hash=03e63197eab6ab38fc86471271c9f1a6427fa080)
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shipped 3 cats and my IM to chris today
70mm TB,spacer and portmatched comming up :D
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shipped 3 cats and my IM to chris today
70mm TB,spacer and portmatched comming up :D
Well worth it. :yes:
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hey do you have a shot of how u ran the charge piping having the AC comp..there?? wanna see what that looks like... ??? ;D
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shipped 3 cats and my IM to chris today
70mm TB,spacer and portmatched comming up :D
Well worth it. :yes:
ive heard good things as well
as for the pipes here is the best i have
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs116.snc1%2F4712_112669466270_563321270_3189515_8095521_n.jpg&hash=2969e27a424952ac83ff660783a76fbf1ec7d660)
infront of the DP right there is where the hot sire pipe goes, here is the hot pipe
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs004.snc1%2F4155_106286031270_563321270_3070308_7618291_n.jpg&hash=ac4503f74cf6df7a4043be21458426358bbab5ef)
so from engine to condenser fan it goes oilpan, oil return, DP, hot pipe, condenser fan
hope it makes sense
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the pipe maze is nearing completion
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs267.snc1%2F9429_181092411270_563321270_4240367_2707829_n.jpg&hash=a52f0c7fe6db58fb3dcfcea015888ee9362e7cad)
i think thats about as good as it gets when it comes to BOV placement close to throttle body lol
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im hoping the shrinking from 3" charge pipes to 2.5 and slightly shorter pipes help throttle response and spool out a tad
any ideas on how much of an effect i should look forward to?
before spool was full boost by 4700ish in 2-3-4 1st was really really late
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woho!! all done :D i had some rewards point from the zone so i got some reflective heat wrap for free and i did the intake pipe's and the hot pipe that is inside the engine bay right by the downpipe. hope it reduces some heat soak, car used to start breaking up on hot days.
enough talk onto a pic
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs230.snc1%2F7718_184683071270_563321270_4278343_5672575_n.jpg&hash=753f8085c811db12262d2005001939c3e83e7fa5)
waiting on the paint to try and putting it all together and testing it out.
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs235.snc1%2F8220_184828431270_563321270_4279371_6306755_n.jpg&hash=5cf88ec62e3000e6a60cba6ae6bb4d9134e73fff)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs235.snc1%2F8220_184828436270_563321270_4279372_7464341_n.jpg&hash=19f3e622836fc6a4c6e9286c57bdb49a84c6c030)
pipes fit like a glove this time around, hope the home depot couplers and clamps hold up over winter and spring. built d15b going in this summer and turning up the boost!!
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Are you gonna be at the track on the 24th? Mini rHMT meet? :yes:
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Are you gonna be at the track on the 24th? Mini rHMT meet? :yes:
sounds good as long as its in the afternoon/night time i work the AM, also brink some bkr7e plugs i cant find them anywhere up here, obviously you will be compensated in crack cocaine. also who else will be there? if its just two cars i dont think it will be worth the hour or so drive unless some tuning is done lol
car sounds nasty and IAT's are stupid low ambient or lower, car sounds cool approaching nice spooling sound.
not sure if i got the turbo XS mbc hooke up correct, bottom port on MBC to bottom of WG, side port of MBC to vac/boost source this sound right??
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I wil be there
lilpooh21186
Rosario4124
And a few uninlisted fools
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I wil be there
lilpooh21186
Rosario4124
And a few uninlisted fools
sounds like a plan, bring your laptops to help me get my turd tuned fully !! lol
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sexy. i can't believe how much stuff is crammed in there.
you using the stock air box for the air cleaner?
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sexy. i can't believe how much stuff is crammed in there.
you using the stock air box for the air cleaner?
yeah it looks ever crazyer in person lol im trying to get a catch can in there too lol
yup stock box with a stock filter fits right in :D i was gonna put a cone fiilter inside the box but the box is too small for the KN filter i have laying around.
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc1%2Fhs220.snc1%2F8732_191053661270_563321270_4336201_1449903_n.jpg&hash=8fdfcbd3b27809810545fcc11c46322f2abcfd3a)
the new exhaust thanks to rcautoworks.com for a good deal
also broke down and bought a copy of ectune. program looks nasty so far but still havent started tuning the car just working on a basemap
if anyone could make me a decent basemap would be awesome!!!
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you using a demon or ostrich?
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you using a demon or ostrich?
ostrich 1 and honda log
tunerview 1 is in the mail got it for fairly cheap
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Sick build dood. Im loving that ram air. I think I might try it with some pvc pipe I have lying in my basement. Any different in spool time and IAT?
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Sick build dood. Im loving that ram air. I think I might try it with some pvc pipe I have lying in my basement. Any different in spool time and IAT?
thanks man, pvc should work fine, a 3" 90 deg bend fits PERFECT into the bottom of the air box, i trimed the rubber on the bottom to help it seal a bit
no full tests yet but just looking at the log while cruising its ambient or slightly below it
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definitely a baller setup. my first config had A/C and the plumbing was a PITA!
I upgraded to a Holset turbo and lost that privilege.. but most great things in life come with a consequence :evil:
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holset is def. more important then AC lol
im kinda thinking about moving the condenser forward to make more room for a holset once the motor is built, ill have to see where the jackie chan turbo takes me first
got the car up and running now just need to finish fabbing up the exhaust and bleed the clutch and she is don, and about damn time!!! vid is just showing the intake working, rev between idle and 2000ish rpm
z6 turbo front bumper intake (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTaxFPTtKnI#normal)
just waiting on a magnaflow muffler i picked up for 40 bucks
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sounds nice!! u almost sucked that bag in lol :yes:
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sounds nice!! u almost sucked that bag in lol :yes:
almost took my hand it when i stuck my hand there and reved it to antilag lol
got the exhaust on and magnaflow straight through= PURE SEX!!!!
hope to have a sound clip later tonight
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got the car just about done, the exhaust is only tacked together since i ran out of fluxcore gonna have a shop finish it up.
RCautoworks.com has a GREAT exhaust kit to say the least!!! will have pics after its on the lift at the shop
overall i love the way it sounds super deep zero rasp and the car feels like it has a bit of TQ not its not just top end. cant wait to tune it on ectune!!! calvin if fixing my license issues right now
sorry if its still processing
rHMT turbo z6 maganaflow 3" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekBgGRHUaaU#normal)
having a small issue though the BOV is sticking a open a bit when the car is in vac, under boost its fine, this is making it build boost flow and the part throttle area run like ass, i was thinking switch the small spring thats in there with the big one, should hold it shut since its stiffer.
hate on
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got the car just about done, the exhaust is only tacked together since i ran out of fluxcore gonna have a shop finish it up.
RCautoworks.com has a GREAT exhaust kit to say the least!!! will have pics after its on the lift at the shop
overall i love the way it sounds super deep zero rasp and the car feels like it has a bit of TQ not its not just top end. cant wait to tune it on ectune!!! calvin if fixing my license issues right now
sorry if its still processing
d16z6 turbo 3" maganflow (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzNGDCJFbtU#normal)
having a small issue though the BOV is sticking a open a bit when the car is in vac, under boost its fine, this is making it build boost flow and the part throttle area run like ass, i was thinking switch the small spring thats in there with the big one, should hold it shut since its stiffer.
hate on
Linky no worky
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]
Linky no worky
yeah youtube is being a pile of aids and processing slow as a mexican processes english
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fixed!!
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sounds not nearly as obnoxious as the 3" open dump just past the firewall. between the solid motor mounts and not having the shifter boot on, my car almost requires earplugs right now.
when do we get ripper vids?
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sounds not nearly as obnoxious as the 3" open dump just past the firewall. between the solid motor mounts and not having the shifter boot on, my car almost requires earplugs right now.
when do we get ripper vids?
right now its breaking up once it hits boost
drove 1 fucking hour to get some bkr7e's :(
calvin is fixing my ectune license should be tuned this weekend if homework isnt over loaded, but im statring IV meds so IDK
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damn, those meds sound serious. hope all is well
is the car leaning out in boost? that would definatley permote breakup. is it drivable or does it break up sitting still?
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damn, those meds sound serious. hope all is well
is the car leaning out in boost? that would definatley permote breakup. is it drivable or does it break up sitting still?
lol im not on the meds im learning how to give them :)
its fine part throttle and cruise but just in boost its breaking up bad
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lol about the meds
what are the afrs when you are in boost?
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lol about the meds
what are the afrs when you are in boost?
no clue crome is being a whore and isnt logging quick enough 3rd or 4th pull :(
just waiting on ectune now
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try freelog, its', well free and does a semi decent job on the afr logging. can't figure out to get the map sensor to read where i can understand whats going on tho
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try freelog, its', well free and does a semi decent job on the afr logging. can't figure out to get the map sensor to read where i can understand whats going on tho
i have that, ecucontrol, its ok but i dont like switching the windows looking at each one and seting up the scalars is annoying, im just gonna wait for my license to come in
im gonna re-do the downpipe but im letting this one get trashed through the winter
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working on the new DP about 25% there
i know it looks weird but there was no way for me to get it to bend straight down, clear the compressor, and still be able to keep that stupid ass 5th bolt on the bottom of the flange. I rotated the pie cuts so that the bottom of the DP would point forward a bit towards the condenser then turns back down and to the ground.
gonna have a shitload of welding to do with these 15* whitey bends! lol
also if anyone has or can get a decently priced 2.5" mild v band would be AWESOME please PM me
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc3%2Fhs110.snc3%2F15758_212121001270_563321270_4550551_6341044_n.jpg&hash=1a714f360224b215d1456ba11d2aa39ca9bd98bb)
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Thats a tight bend lol
So it's a 2.5" merging into 3" ?
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Thats a tight bend lol
So it's a 2.5" merging into 3" ?
2.5 i think im gonna go 2.5 all the way
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got the ksports, some pics, and they are packed away until spring lol
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc3%2Fhs090.snc3%2F15758_212574296270_563321270_4553534_2112090_n.jpg&hash=050fc6159eeaa29ab21c13d73adb92be121339c0)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc3%2Fhs110.snc3%2F15758_212574286270_563321270_4553532_6310261_n.jpg&hash=78cf46f757ca039c932697eaaba4f8ef33639e4e)
went with the balla coilovers instead of the tried and true GC/koni setup
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well my first two builds were FAIL 00 coupe caught on fire, 99 hatch got rear ended.
onto older and better things!!!
about to pick up a 93 EX 4 door
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.josesautosales.com%2Finventory%2Fenlarge%2F123998169779262.jpg&hash=5ad360fa4f7305cc710ee16f93e1ac0ad3cce065)
has 232k on her, going to boost it untill it blows up (should be pretty quick) and in the meantime I will be building the JDM d15b
wish me luck, 3rd time is the charm?
kit thats going on her
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2Finstall5.jpg&hash=962262914dde5dbb840b5432574d31df62ef57bb)
will have to hack it up a bit so the IC pipes fit the EG.
previous fails:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F100_2002.jpg&hash=ea6825e8928c8482f497fc8babcdf6aa9ba2bbb1)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F1209081233-00.jpg&hash=6d4ef1d405cd217b9b81e6cbb0569d37dd6ae9de)
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got the ksports, some pics, and they are packed away until spring lol
went with the balla coilovers instead of the tried and true GC/koni setup
Did you spend money on those leaky piles of fail? :-X
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I have 1 vband flange. I used the other one as well as the clamp for the holset.
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I have 1 vband flange. I used the other one as well as the clamp for the holset.
i need a whole kit but thats a start lol
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some new sex from chris M
good work as always
www.polarbeartuning.com (http://) is good shit
pure pron
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc3%2Fhs090.snc3%2F15758_240856851270_563321270_4739069_7037119_n.jpg&hash=3a476d9af72b6f53dd3a08ad9e8bd30143046909)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc3%2Fhs110.snc3%2F15758_240856856270_563321270_4739070_5021616_n.jpg&hash=1ab374a2ec187d61981c8737d761fb47e0bbe7a8)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc3%2Fhs110.snc3%2F15758_240856876270_563321270_4739071_2189177_n.jpg&hash=f897efc0052e3075af552c1006e75bb57714ab76)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc3%2Fhs110.snc3%2F15758_240856891270_563321270_4739072_2423756_n.jpg&hash=de1090cf8b261ac8d2e355c473e6eef2c4efedf6)
chris did a hell of a job for sure, also blended and smoothed the runners on the intake manifold, nothing crazy but looks great
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I didn't know that I need the spacer to fit the 74mm bore. I'll have to order it this spring I guess.
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I didn't know that I need the spacer to fit the 74mm bore. I'll have to order it this spring I guess.
If your running a 94+ b series intake manifold you dont need the spacer there is enough material to port match but the spacer is still recommend.
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Thanks I love working on those d16z6 manifolds. 2010 has flow benched ported d16z6/d16y8/d16a6 heads in stock in the works.
Im going to have a couple budget options but I think 2010 will be another step forward for big power D's.
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Thanks I love working on those d16z6 manifolds. 2010 has flow benched ported d16z6/d16y8/d16a6 heads in stock in the works.
Im going to have a couple budget options but I think 2010 will be another step forward for big power D's.
ill prob be test mule #1 lol
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Thanks I love working on those d16z6 manifolds. 2010 has flow benched ported d16z6/d16y8/d16a6 heads in stock in the works.
Im going to have a couple budget options but I think 2010 will be another step forward for big power D's.
ill prob be test mule #1 lol
not if i beat you to it
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Thanks I love working on those d16z6 manifolds. 2010 has flow benched ported d16z6/d16y8/d16a6 heads in stock in the works.
Im going to have a couple budget options but I think 2010 will be another step forward for big power D's.
ill prob be test mule #1 lol
not if i beat you to it
i sell a lot of crack rock, the flow is not an issue lol
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I have done plenty of sohc heads but to keep cost down Im going to see how much flow I can get out of them on a stock valve job. I have yet to do that with stock valve job but have 2 heads Im already working on.
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what kinda of O0 money we looking at on the head work
i might have to ship you a head and IM to let you play with
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I have done plenty of sohc heads but to keep cost down Im going to see how much flow I can get out of them on a stock valve job. I have yet to do that with stock valve job but have 2 heads Im already working on.
Chris pm me a price, income tax is almost here ;)
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I have done plenty of sohc heads but to keep cost down Im going to see how much flow I can get out of them on a stock valve job. I have yet to do that with stock valve job but have 2 heads Im already working on.
Chris pm me a price, income tax is almost here ;)
+1 and what cam options if any?
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That port work is pure SEX! Going for the same setup... 74mm tb, spacer, and ported z6. How much did it run ya?
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That port work is pure SEX! Going for the same setup... 74mm tb, spacer, and ported z6. How much did it run ya?
it is very very sexy, cant remember exactly how much but i sent Chris 3 cat converters which he buys then like 140ish on top of that I think
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sorry for the lack of updates but been crazy busy with school, work, hoe's you know how it is.
got the dp fitted after a million pic cuts, its tacked together but need to buy 3 spools of fluxcore to get it welded up LMAO no pics didnt have time to take it off and take a few.
picked up some GSR leathers like them a lot comfy as fuck and give the cheap ass interior a welcome upgrade. the foam in the drivers seat was worn down and I had metal stabbing me in the kidney when driving it.
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i got a set of rears too but fitments is deff an issue haha.
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the brackets are different :( also the portion of the seat that used to go around the seats doesnt fit.
anyone know of a way to make integra coupe rear seats fit a 4dr civic?
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Ya!
Get the integra 4 door rear seats..... ;)
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Ya!
Get the integra 4 door rear seats..... ;)
easier said then done my friend lol like no honduhs up here in NH if you spot some teg rears LMK O0
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well said fuck it to making the interior nice and shot an email over to delta 8) 8)
im sure they will do good things
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back from the dead did some work on the interior
picked up a can of this shit from autozone, turned out pretty good to me
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2Fd776cb20.jpg&hash=25ea678c365dc25c31ebffcd0848ff16eb84ca5d)
the end result
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just mask it really carefully, do a good 2-3 coats took me 2 cans all 4 doors
having my mom do the rear seats in leather for full out baller interior :D
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yeah that vinyl and fabric paint works really good actually. i redid my tan dash in semi gloss black it looks brand new
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yeah that vinyl and fabric paint works really good actually. i redid my tan dash in semi gloss black it looks brand new
yeah i was suprised how well it sticks and it doesnt rub off on clothes wither so far.
i need to get this POS on the road miss driving it too much, still need to fit the coupe bumper, trim it while trying to keep the stock grill, then pain it to match best i can
anyone know where i can find matching pain code r72p in a rattle can? lol
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BALLIN
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straight up gangsta
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time to go do some burnouts to celebrate :D
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mom is doing WORK on the rear seats
using some cheap "leather" whatever i dont care its an 18 year old civic lol i think thy look great for 7 dollars in materials they are just covers slip right over so i fi sell it can take them with me :D
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mom is doing WORK on the rear
:?:
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mom is doing WORK on the rear
:?:
kindly go fist yourself sir
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mom is doing WORK on the rear
:?:
kindly go fist my mother sir
Sorry I don't mess around with monkeys sir
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MOAR updates
;D
crammed on another intercooler condum this time off a coupe(yes i know swap the fenders/hood.corners so it fits right) well im a cheap fuck so i just crammed it on even managed to keep the grill somewhat lol.
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the bumper sat in the sun and was all twisted up, hope its suny tomorrow and it rights its self, i tried to heat it with a torch but no go :P
then i got bored and added some speed holes!
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cant even see them unless you know to look for them, they are down super low below the rear bumper so yeah it does remove some of the parachute effect, used an old cutoff wheel as a template for the holes, calibrated eye ball did the rest :yes:
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H I DEEZ son with some more CDM headlights SOOOO MUCH clearer then the 18 year old stockers!!! i plan on resporing thestockers and painting the inside black eventually.
moar to come tomorrow
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yeah that vinyl and fabric paint works really good actually. i redid my tan dash in semi gloss black it looks brand new
yeah i was suprised how well it sticks and it doesnt rub off on clothes wither so far.
i need to get this POS on the road miss driving it too much, still need to fit the coupe bumper, trim it while trying to keep the stock grill, then pain it to match best i can
anyone know where i can find matching pain code r72p in a rattle can? lol
http://stores.sanleandrocolor.com/StoreFront.bok (http://stores.sanleandrocolor.com/StoreFront.bok)
call them. we used to get all of our honda paint in rattle cans from here. the shop is like 5 mins away from my moms house. if he wont ship, let me know. i can pick iot up for you this weekend.
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Get a new front bumper that looks like asshole
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Get a new front bumper that looks like asshole
fist your self this isnt a pretty contest, and i think it looks good as fuck, once it kinda settles onto the car ill trim up the holes a bit to make them even
thanks a bunch apex but bordoux or something like that from autozone looks close enough to me, the front bumper used to be teal :D
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Function over form
the bumper is tits, it says "I came to party"
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The front bumper wouldn't look so bad if the holes were even. I reminds me of the skylines where they cut up the bumpers and frames to lighten them as much they can. Kinda looks cool.
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lowerit lmao
and turbo, i plan on evening them out once the bummper kinda gets used to being on a car not under a pile of snow and it bends back in shape now for some updates while i wait for some plaint to dry lol
repin harber freight son!! im doing the DP in two sections so if/when i bottom out its easier to fix an will be easier to take on/off
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anti-lag will take any bits of slag/flux right off hahah
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i got to work on the waistgate dump tube and though what would rHMT do??
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yes or no? someone please talk me out of doing this because im about to lol
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I would do it on a spare hood
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don't do it if its your dd. And if you do the wg out of the hood, you better do the fucking downpipe too
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Get a new front bumper that looks like asshole
+1
And the holes in the rear look super gay, you shouldn't have cut any at all because theres still the socalled
"parachute effect" since you didnt cut them in the farthest rearmost part of the bumper. Just take the goddamn bumper off if you are so worried about the 'parachute effect"
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Yeah to each his own on the front but I like it so it's gonna stay
The wg I'm gonna quit being a lazy ass and run it under
As for the rear you really can't even tell it's cut unless your layin on the ground and know to look for the holes. I think it will help the "parachute" effect since the foam is right above the holes and almost seals against the rear bumper so cutting them higher wouldnt really do any good
Thanks for the advice though just gotta finish weld the 2nd piece of the dp, change the ds axle and she is back on the road!!!
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Get a new front bumper that looks like asshole
+1
And the holes in the rear look super gay, you shouldn't have cut any at all because theres still the socalled
"parachute effect" since you didnt cut them in the farthest rearmost part of the bumper. Just take the goddamn bumper off if you are so worried about the 'parachute effect"
You gotta remember its JAY DEE EMMMM
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Get a new front bumper that looks like asshole
+1
And the holes in the rear look super gay, you shouldn't have cut any at all because theres still the socalled
"parachute effect" since you didnt cut them in the farthest rearmost part of the bumper. Just take the goddamn bumper off if you are so worried about the 'parachute effect"
You gotta remember its JAY DEE EMMMM
This
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Fuck it, its not like its a show car, its a street car. People are just gona think that is just onther ricer....lol
I love the font bumper. Fuck everyone else that say otherwise! Jew :mexi: O0 :noel:
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Shit looks better then my car
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Shit looks better then my car
thanks though no matter what i do the DP flange wont stop leaking, metal gasket, copper sprayed, bolts tight as FUCK ill loosen and retry ASAP
-the JB weld is seeping oil through it on the return and no its not the AN fitting,
-the tranny pisses oil out of the rear seal where the shifter goes in and i cant get it to stop for the fucking LIFE of me yeas i switched the seal
-the 2nd section of the DP is ghetto as fuck but other then that its fucking tits :D lol
if i can adress those issues i would be a very content man
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for the jb weld you need to make sure both surfaces are clean and oil free, maybe even slightly scuffed to give it some purchase, and you need to make sure you give it time to set before theres oil trying to violate it. Is your dp flange warped to fuck? Belt sander is your friend. Tranny- your guess is as good as mine, but if a tranny was blowing lube out its rear, I would use less lube on her/him.
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I got the flange from wier so you know it's thick as fuck, and I doubt my ho
e depot welder can cause too much warp either way I welded nice ands slow.
But yeah think I'm gonna eventualy take it off and smooth it but till then fuck it just soot under the hood.
As for the jb I may have been too quick to fill her up with oil first time around think I'll sand it down next oil change and throw on a fresh coat until then it's rust protection for the underside of the car
I see what you did there with the last comment
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iphone pics for the fail!! :D
once i get it clean,tinted, and waxed ill get someone with a good cam to snap some photos
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i forgot how good 13psi feels, I came when i hit antilag and was spinning in 2nd
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:o
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now to call the folks over at delta cam for a regrind . . . im thinking 272 or bigger :D
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:o
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now to call the folks over at delta cam for a regrind . . . im thinking 272 or bigger :D
LMK what your specs and how well that cam works for you.
I want to order one from them soon. ;D
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im pretty much calling them and saying i have the valvetrain upgraded and want the highest hp possible on boost
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just found some slicks for a hell of a price on CL too holy crap!
guys think 24.5" is too big?
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24.5 inch tires seem to bring drivetrain issues on the d series atleast thats my experince. Try to stick with a 23 inch tire.
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That kinda sucks but I'll give them a shot for this season since I hope to see 350-400whp if issues pop up I'll just downsize for next season
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should help with the launch :noel:
14.5x8x13 i believe they are a little on the big side for the power ill be making but Ill use them for this season, see how it goes and then re-seize for next year the slicks have a few passes on them but plenty of life left on them and the compound doesnt feel that stiff but we will see how they really are on the first pass
considering the wheels go for ~400 EACH and i got the set with slicks for about 400 i think i did pretty damn good lol
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Not a bad deal at all
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Not a bad deal at all
not at all, im sure i should be able to re-sell them on hater-tech for 500+ no problem
anyone know how much they expand once zooming down the track? if they clear while sitting i dont want them to rub and explode half way down the track
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Raise up your coilovers
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Raise up your coilovers
ksports arent on yet, right now eibach springs is it
i think ill do a run on the street tires just for fun then once the ksports and ES master kit go on ill jack it to offroad territory for the slicks to fit
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poped a coupler running a 350z with I/ Intake Manifold/ Exhaust on the highway was keeping right up with him untip POP and he walked lol
half ass fixed it
16.8@83 2.8 60ft
think it poped again when i got on the anti-lag
got down on the ground in the parking lot and fixed it better, thanks everyone for the support in the parking lot lol
14.7@98 2.5 60ft bogged then spun 1st :P
not bad need to put the slicks on inplace of the 175 width allseasons and fix the leaks of everything from everywhere LOL BOV held on with one hand-tight bolt, gonna replace it with an ssqv the greddy type just isnt working for me i totally fucked the flange up
hope to be out again soon with the issues worked out
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score if they are real volks :yes:
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Why do you need slicks if your car is so slow?
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Raise up your coilovers
ksports arent on yet, right now eibach springs is it
i think ill do a run on the street tires just for fun then once the ksports and ES master kit go on ill jack it to offroad territory for the slicks to fit
remember 0 camber at the strip.
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Real volks jdm stickers and all serial number etc etc so I deff agree Chris, also pulled out you many to start the work on the other head with the mani as inspiration lol
minor threat with all the leaks and shit and a poop 60 the time isn't that bad, car will be trapping low 100's no prob with the small shit worked and driver mod lol
and deff agree on the zero camber as ideal but I think I'll run it at 1.5ish for dd driving but no camber kit on her right now
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well got rocking on the d15b-east!! lugged that bitch from the basement fucking sucked 16 stairs up, through the living room, and down 12 steps LOL
after 80k, romping on it off revlimiter for 20k, and sitting in the basement untouched for almost two years
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looks fucking GREAT and the cylinder walls look great, gonna double check once i get some measurement tools :D
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ripped apart the head to pull this bastard out
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OMG look at all the lobes!!!! vteeeeeeech!!!
heading to delta cams for a beastly regrind, wither 282 intake/272 exhaust or just straight up 282 all around havent decided yet :D
thats it for the last 1.5hours of my day
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Order a bunch of flat rate boxes from usps. Great oil soakers and FREE to your door.
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Order a bunch of flat rate boxes from usps. Great oil soakers and FREE to your door.
is there a limit to how these bitches can be used? lol
gonna go grab a valve spring tool from vato-zone and pull out the valves so i can get rocking on a mild port job and polish on the exhaust side
hope i can get it to look something 1/2 as decent as the IM you did for me
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I take valves out the rHMT way..... Boxend wrench and a friend with a magnet... You need rag too!
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I take valves out the rHMT way..... Boxend wrench and a friend with a magnet... You need rag too!
Yeah this tool from auto zone blows some fat cock how do you do it with a wrench and magnet? How the fuck will I re-install thestiffer springs lol
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You can order the generic snap on copy valve spring tool which can be used for dohc heads also its what I use. if all you need it for is sohc heads then a generic cheapo valve spring tool will do the job. You may have to fuck with it a little but it will do the job.
If you want the valves out now get a heavy hammer and a long 1/2 inch extension. Pound away at the retainer. keepers will come loose. You now have your head taken apart in 10 minutes.
Take head to car wash with purple power/carb cleaner. throw 5 bucks in the machine and go to town.
I like to take heads apart with you guessed it flat rate boxes under them. the white boxes make it easy to find the keepers if a couple get loose. Do not loose those little fuckers they are easy to misplace.
Oh and I finish everything with a 60 grit and I know it doesnt look like it but thats the finish.
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Fuck you, Chris.
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used the rhmt pro tip of boxed wrench and magnet but one of the little bastard flug out from spring tension and flung god knows where. i have a spare y7 head that i will sacrofice if the keeprs will work
thanks for the port tips chris gonna pressure wash it tomorrow morning and buy some port tools just a basic smooth it out and remove flaws port job nothing nuts
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not to bad
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hard to belive but these little bastard will flow 400hp in a bit :D
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another use for USPS boxes keep valves organized, i belive in parts wearing together so they are going back in the way they came out
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carb cleaner to clean the intake ports. Still the best stuff to clean up intake ports imo.
purple power to clean the chambers/exhaust ports/rest of the head.
Dont leave purple power on for more than 10 minutes purple power will eat at the aluminium and turn it black.
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carb cleaner to clean the intake ports. Still the best stuff to clean up intake ports imo.
purple power to clean the chambers/exhaust ports/rest of the head.
Dont leave purple power on for more than 10 minutes purple power will eat at the aluminium and turn it black.
yeah i knew it was corosive to it says right on the bottle, just took it to the washer looks pretty damn good, just gonna hit it with carb cleaner tomorrow to get the little spots off.
gonna pick up some port tools think autozone has a decent dremel like tool that comes with a bunch of bits and is variable speed.
i plan on polishing the exhaust fully and the chambers best i can JUST polish in chambers not touching a damn thing, but honestly not sure if this head is made or some samurai swards or some BS it looks damn good in the CC just from the factory couldnt spot any flaws or possible hot spots
thanks for the tips chris you my O0 you still going into the port business? i can tell you you will be severly underpaid for the work you will do just taking apart/washing and staying organized is a nights job on its own
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This thread is win.....Thank you all for the info :noel:
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This thread is win.....Thank you all for the info :noel:
i was thinking on doing a blue dash conversion while im at it any tips?
JP nig thanks
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Fuck you hoosiers :P
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I dont mind doing port work for the guys on rhmt since no one ever bitches. Besides that its not my main focus. I do work for 2 big shops and they just stamp their name on the stuff so that is enough to keep me happy.
I do maybe one head a month and that is enough for me. If someone here wants one cool but thats about all I would really want.
If people buy the intake/throttle body/spacer combo package then Im happy. It works well and is priced to sell.
Used parts is my main focus and local labor. I can only handle running heavy cutters so much for porting. I use 3 die grinders in a row. Once one starts getting hella hot I move onto the next. Its a workout for sure.
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good to hear your happy man
didnt really do to much on the head, just removed cast marks, and the rough surface in the exhaust ports, gonna go in from the chamber side in a bit the stone bits kinda suck they get used up quick
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these are the little faggots i was looking for
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i love the smell of free HP in the morning!!!
time to go to walmart to pick up some more polishing attachments, the sandpaper drum things sucks some D for sure
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small update, hope to have pics tomorrow
-ported and smoothed intake ports
-matched the gasket, slightly oversize for a nice reversion step up :D
-cleaned up all the valves
-shipped the cam to delta for their 272 treatment :D will cost me 170 bucks shipped both ways :) not to bad considering a comparable crower stg3 is 300+ not bad at all IMO and keep stock reliability of the camshaft
Im thinking of throwing this head/cam/IM/74mm throttle body onto the stock z6 block just to see how she likes it and because im to lazy to swap out the whole block lol
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and keep stock reliability of the camshaft
since when did crower's z6 stuff have a reliability issue?
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and keep stock reliability of the camshaft
since when did crower's z6 stuff have a reliability issue?
Since they made the cam journals slightly to big and peoples cams seized up and their finish isn't great either seen a few burs left over from machining
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and keep stock reliability of the camshaft
since when did crower's z6 stuff have a reliability issue?
Since they made the cam journals slightly to big and peoples cams seized up and their finish isn't great either seen a few burs left over from machining
interesting. mine runs just fine. interested in what kind of performance you get out of that regrind. i might do one for a budget hx-35 setup for a crx this summer if i find time
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and keep stock reliability of the camshaft
since when did crower's z6 stuff have a reliability issue?
Since they made the cam journals slightly to big and peoples cams seized up and their finish isn't great either seen a few burs left over from machining
I'm sure it will work out great I'll Len you know thoug hope to throw this head package on the stock block as a test mule
interesting. mine runs just fine. interested in what kind of performance you get out of that regrind. i might do one for a budget hx-35 setup for a crx this summer if i find time
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got bored today since im just waiting on shit to ship in so i did some mapping, not sure why the pics are croped and fucked up looking trying to fix through photobucket
with the cam, porting, IM, TB i did the math with 100%VE and 20psi, 1st line 3500prm 2nd 7500
holeset hx35 not sure on the map but it looks legit
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2Fhx35.png&hash=d56f3688c5822fbd2705eee056dc781116b4eabf)
best map i could find for my current ebay turbo which is a 46 trim if i measured it all correct (.50 in .63 ex)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2Ft04e46trim.png&hash=9a53a2019923918aeaac0496eb85bd43b1fd94c1)
a real garret 50 trim
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2Ft04e50trim.png&hash=ee2cbd69ccdca29f3fa40743f043cda082cddae2)
what you guys think i should do?
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holset. No, I didn't look at the maps. that is just always the answer.
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Truth!!! Lol to bad it looks like it won't make boost till 5000 lol looks like the eBay turd will work better with more then 20 psi but I bet it blows up
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delta is fucking AWESOME cam is already on the way back along with a free shirt
160 bones, 272 cam=WIN
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delta rocks! Nothing but good things to say about them in my book.
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delta rocks! Nothing but good things to say about them in my book.
yeah and scott answers the phone at almost all times of the night lol deff some awesome hours
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holset. No, I didn't look at the maps. that is just always the answer.
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holset. No, I didn't look at the maps. that is just always the answer.
Lmao any recomendations of what variant so it has half decent spool time? Wish I had picked one up before the bandwaggon now it's gonna be $$$$$
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Corey is selling the one from his build with a 12cm exhaust housing. I think that would be reasonable for spool, and he ported the shit out of the exhaust side. I think he wanted $300. check his build thread
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Link?
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Or check out junk yards.
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Which holset should I look for? The info thread is about as useful as a 15 yearold in a strip club
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http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=9389.90 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=9389.90)
lazyass
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Didn't know that was Corey hmmmm tempting wonder how it would spool on my shit 1.5 vs1.6 isn't helping and sohc flow ....Think smaller 9cm would be my best bet
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on a 1.5 with a 12 cm, you would see full boost by about 4500-5000
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h1c 12cm made flipnog giggle like a little school girl. You can find them on the ebays for under 150 shipped.
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Time to go start the 9 cm hunt
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Add
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=435.msg5800#msg5800 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=435.msg5800#msg5800)
What turbo you running again?
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eBay t3t4 .50/.63
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eBay t3t4 .50/.63
Fix
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eBay t3t4 .50/.63
Fix
thanks nog
roughed out the bowls and the ports
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net%2Fhs282.snc3%2F27760_426444866270_563321270_5840322_3793380_n.jpg&hash=49090349fe5489f994d06f244522e780618e850e)
not perfectly matched but the IM is smaller so anti-reversion is still there
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net%2Fhs262.snc3%2F27760_426445111270_563321270_5840323_735139_n.jpg&hash=c68c2dbf42824e65f1fc92200398413f4adc4d3c)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash1%2Fhs312.ash1%2F27760_426445326270_563321270_5840330_6155684_n.jpg&hash=ef540b1df2c40a5d59d466ae30813c550f2877dd)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash1%2Fhs312.ash1%2F27760_426445521270_563321270_5840331_8337850_n.jpg&hash=1f0ccc2a3848382cab4e5d617a2c6f6d3236d235)
hit it with 60 grit per chris M spec :noel: as you can see cant quite reach everthing but whatever i just want this motor together and boosting ill go crazy on the other head
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-sjc1%2Fhs282.snc3%2F27760_426445786270_563321270_5840337_2673078_n.jpg&hash=b1ce1c51626d92bf5c654a3de9fc1c7bfee749d0)
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc3%2Fhs282.snc3%2F27760_426446286270_563321270_5840341_6464547_n.jpg&hash=2e95c6f13a7b98466ed4bff2074e29e6347080eb)
thats all for today any tips on installing valve keepers? lol
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just removed all the cast marks off the main gurdle so oil flows back down to the pan better, i know it prob wont do anything but w/e lol
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-sjc1%2Fhs522.snc3%2F29725_426730361270_563321270_5845905_6569255_n.jpg&hash=d89187db55e12f722cb05f81791620902d3e3c3a)
got 1/2 of it notched my compressor and the carbide bit are shitting the bed takes FOREVER
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net%2Fhs617.snc3%2F32467_426782916270_563321270_5846928_6289002_n.jpg&hash=51ee08d38df0ceff43040144b2f4db105fecf502)
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well i want to make some more HP out of my vitara build and the cam and head is a great place to gain some power for sure!
after pricing out a cam from zex or other comperable brands I wasnt sure if it was worth the investment, ive also read a review or two of some of the cams binding up on d-series so i started looking for a solution.
I gave delta a call and asked what they could do for me after watching their videos on Delta Camshaft (http://www.deltacam.com) I was confident on sending my cam out. After talking to Scott for a bit we agreed on a 272 grind :bigok: another benefit is its a stock core cam so reliability cant be beat its straight from Honda!!
I sent my cam out via USPS it fits in a flat rate box (barely) lol and sent it for 14 bucks. about 2 days later I got a call saying its on it way back. :yes: custumer service is top notch and down time is minimal.
the price honestly cant be beat a performance cam for 160 bucks is AWESOME
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F37ddc6bc.jpg&hash=63417a43444ea8c0b5021c1c02165f40df7b730e)
the packaging was top notch
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F989a8844.jpg&hash=4e0e2b32b13323a7d2d13c1c56cae35a5dc786ab)
what you get in the box: The cam, a shirt, and two stickers to whore them out
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2Fd15e7ac1.jpg&hash=02a7ce4178d7698a857e22db9f159ed565ab0243)
The cam its self looks GREAT smooth surfaces, nicley machined not a spec of rust on it, and no chips missing like in the bisi unit thats in the F/S forum LOL
the lobes look awesome should have a nice loap at idle :D
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F43699bf0.jpg&hash=dfde389775ca59c061163b166f07c0364b12f11c)
overall my concencus i see no reason not to go with delta even if you want to go bigger then 272 they can weld the cam and even then its still cheaper then the competitors!
if you want power, price, and 2nd to none service go with delta :bigok:
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Sounds good, would like to see what it does as far as power.
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Sounds good, would like to see what it does as far as power.
as would i if i wasnt a cheap fuck and would buy some dyno time LOL
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my 272/260 on the LS has a very light lope to it. But I heard that the 272/272 beats the ground! :evil:
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my 272/260 on the LS has a very light lope to it. But I heard that the 272/272 beats the ground! :evil:
I hope so!!! hahah
almost ashamed im running an exhaust on this think now
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I have used delta regrinds in non vtec sohc's for 5+ years. For the price they cant be beat.
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I have used delta regrinds in non vtec sohc's for 5+ years. For the price they cant be beat.
I have a spare y7 cam/head that i plan on using in another motor just for fun
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Wat aboot having them rip off some skank2 PRO1s for the boat anchor??????
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I know they were doing some b series vtec copies but had some issues this was a couple years ago.
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Wat aboot having them rip off some skank2 PRO1s for the boat anchor??????
Never hurts to call the issue with going big is running out of base circle on the cam, you can only cram so much lift/dur "inside" the stock lobe.
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I saw with my own eyes a set of flat b series skunk copies delta did years ago. Those pro cams are fuckin huge.
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i love being done with school :mexi:
gotta stay organized all the bearings will be recycled back into the motor they look minty fresh
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F1f5b1a81.jpg&hash=d6c5a097f3fe59a207d0a4a3a9496e1ddf7f3417)
should I keep going deeper with the notch? I used a pice of 3/4 tape to mark out the width then i went about 1/4 inch up into the sleve and 1/4 back into the block and connected
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F45ba8819.jpg&hash=aad98a93cb5d8a26867b22b055fc788d5109e2fc)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F981d35d5.jpg&hash=247654505c9412e959ec62c918727c4a23d1bb38)
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Help a nig out notch deep enough? Really don't want to reassemble just to see if it is :P tell me if you think I should take more out
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Help a nig out notch deep enough? Really don't want to reassemble just to see if it is :P tell me if you think I should take more out
I took out a little less material then you with good results. :yes:
But you should be fine.
I follow this article for help. http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d_series_engine_building_tips/ (http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d_series_engine_building_tips/)
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Yeah I went with endyne as well time to go finish it up I guess!! Hope I can start assembly tonight
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Help a nig out notch deep enough? Really don't want to reassemble just to see if it is :P tell me if you think I should take more out
I took out a little less material then you with good results. :yes:
But you should be fine.
I follow this article for help. http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d_series_engine_building_tips/ (http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d_series_engine_building_tips/)
hmmm i dont have a stretch gauge. . . fuck Wonder if i could just TQ them down or if the stretch is absolutely necessary
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Help a nig out notch deep enough? Really don't want to reassemble just to see if it is :P tell me if you think I should take more out
I took out a little less material then you with good results. :yes:
But you should be fine.
I follow this article for help. http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d_series_engine_building_tips/ (http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d_series_engine_building_tips/)
hmmm i dont have a stretch gauge. . . fuck Wonder if i could just TQ them down or if the stretch is absolutely necessary
I have had success with just torquing them down. :yes:
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well finally got a vale spring compressor got the intake side done
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash1%2Fhs522.ash1%2F30719_427443256270_563321270_5858076_6980374_n.jpg&hash=2ad38837925864e214ae381e3c4260651b59ee7f)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net%2Fhs582.snc3%2F30719_427443456270_563321270_5858079_6572884_n.jpg&hash=2c715e9b58498821ee087136e535dbaf937bc678)
should be good until 8000rpm if power doesnt start falling off
ill finish it all up after some lunch
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im having an issue with the rocker assembly such a pain in the ass and it wont set down flat over the cam any tips on installing it? im fallowing the helms manual
cam at TDC, all the adjusters loose, make sure non of the rockers are binding(this is where vtec SUCKS lol) and it wont go down over the cam, some of the rockers are also suer tight over the valve spring. I emailed crower to see if there is a diff between in/ex springs
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Had similar issues but I just got all the cam cap bolts in and slowly tighten down from center out.
One turn at a time. :?:
But it worked, I'm using the same springs w/ a stock y8 cam ATM. ;D
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yeah the helms says that i should do it one turn at a time, the thing that worries me is that once of the rockers is sooooooo tight on top of the spring even with the adjustment bolt turned all the way out
im gonna hop out and try it again
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yeah the helms says that i should do it one turn at a time, the thing that worries me is that once of the rockers is sooooooo tight on top of the spring even with the adjustment bolt turned all the way out
im gonna hop out and try it again
Yeah watch the valve end of the rockers so they do not get caught on the edge of the valve stem.
If you do it one at turn a time you just look the valve stems and see when the rocker tips get stuck. ;D
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well i got the rocker assembly on no problem, just worked noce and slow and it went on but for some reason the cam will NOT turn over im trying to get it so i can adjust the valves.
I think the royal purple lube is just to freaking sticky and its just not letting it spin easy at all.
92cxyd good tip worked great
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so im gonna hope to have the rings gaped tonight
did some math from 1st ring:
.006 x 3.00 = .018
2nd Ring:
.0065 x 3.00 = .0195
oil rails between .010 - .050
all from Laskey racing
Laskey Racing Online Store (http://laskeyracing.com/shop/ringgap.htm)
this is for boost only
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so im gonna hope to have the rings gaped tonight
did some math from 1st ring:
.006 x 3.00 = .018
2nd Ring:
.0065 x 3.00 = .0195
oil rails between .010 - .050
all from Laskey racing
Laskey Racing Online Store (http://laskeyracing.com/shop/ringgap.htm)
this is for boost only
W/ my 75.5mm vitara I gapped mine @ 0.018" (1st) & 0.020" (2nd) and the oil rails had plenty gap ;D :yes:
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im just doing them straight .019 a .001 isnt gonna b the end of the world
also you really helped me out last time with the tip and the rockers came down great but im still having trouble getting some of the rockers being stuck down i think the royal purple is to sticky! the cam wont rotate to save my life more then 5-10*
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isnt that a delta cam? i just installed a crower 2 and i didnt have anyh problems with it.
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isnt that a delta cam? i just installed a crower 2 and i didnt have anyh problems with it.
yeah it is i bet its just something dumb Im doing
got all the rings gaped and placed them according to endyne, arrow facing the flywheel :)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc3%2Fhs523.snc3%2F29757_429033281270_563321270_5896257_1184231_n.jpg&hash=54e72b90ab9a3613b4fa436c9bb43be971de0c0f)
they look a little thicker eehhh?
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notched up for some room, went a little deeper then i needed but better safe then sorry LOL
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just gonna wash it really well tomorrow if im not to tired (work in 4 hrs :() and put the block together
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net%2Fhs543.snc3%2F29757_429034391270_563321270_5896306_5076226_n.jpg&hash=70f8ed4408e04b4daa52926a984a032a5626602a)
thants it for now :D
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about to go put the rods in just want to confirm how to install without a stretch gauge the FJT rods with ARP bolts
43ftlb, with ARP lube.
45ftlb with 10w30 engine oil.
tq then loosen 3 times then TQ one final time any confirmation on this?
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O0 :yes: :noel: .011 p2w SON LMAO
also checked the "recycled" stock bearings all spec out between .001 and .0015 :D
just have to find a damn 10x1.25 tap none of the local stores have ANY pissed all of the ARP's went in smooth minus one :P
hope to have it in this weekend on a basemap for break in, then the boost wil go to NOG asap
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ok so did some more work today
got the head TQ down, threw the IM on, ported the oil pump, got the oil pan re-welded just in case haha, put the oil temp sender on, started working on making the snail fit
before porting:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net%2Fhs659.snc3%2F32557_432359181270_563321270_5970271_1673939_n.jpg&hash=9e615a9447ed44eb78c491e4cb7cb9a688caf178)
a nice 90 turn should help flow :D
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash1%2Fhs559.ash1%2F32557_432359361270_563321270_5970273_1252383_n.jpg&hash=6054af0fe6c77f046fad5f90855423c84544e8a0)
she looks so tight needs loosening
after
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net%2Fhs659.snc3%2F32557_432359636270_563321270_5970276_7107652_n.jpg&hash=8b71742a386bafdc5d8911c0adeaf3887b982c80)
forgot to get a before sorry but was all just sharp 90* shit
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash1%2Fhs559.ash1%2F32557_432359806270_563321270_5970278_1054078_n.jpg&hash=45deaf971ac342e97559db153191740b995b79bb)
looks rougher then it is but will be better then the sharp corner
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc3%2Fhs659.snc3%2F32557_432359996270_563321270_5970279_6163011_n.jpg&hash=76ffcd115b30b553bc368251be232ae582cc30ee)
opened up!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc3%2Fhs659.snc3%2F32557_432303751270_563321270_5969252_3497374_n.jpg&hash=f95515d356711f94e60950e4a65e9a9383abff28)
oil temp location fluxcore OWNS ALL
the turbo would hit the oil dip stick so what to do besides fuckiing use a cut off wheel and a flapper wheeel to clearance that BITCH
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shocker your ass china snail!
got the oil warmer on now to figure out how the hell i should plumb it, any tips?
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I ran one hose that goes to the heater first to the oil cooler/heater then to the heater core.
Worked for me. ;D
Or look at the hose routing for the VX model and use their routing.
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I ran one hose that goes to the heater first to the oil cooler/heater then to the heater core.
Worked for me. ;D
Or look at the hose routing for the VX model and use their routing.
wouldnt that mean it would only be warming/cooling if the heat was on?
ill have to flip through the helms on redpepperracing.com but the pics are fucking HUGE so its a pain to look at
also got this off a b18 or some shit not a VX
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Yeah I'm using one off of a b16a. If you use the heater core circuit water will flow throw the oil cooler when the heater control is open.
I drive my car with the heater valve open 95% of the time. ;D
If you do the VX route it would circulate all the time even with the thermostat closed. :yes:
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If you do the VX route it would circulate all the time even with the thermostat closed. :yes:
yeah thats what i want, trying to google it now but no fucking luck at all :'( and i may be really stupid because i cant find it in the 92-95 helms either looked under coolant, heater, and engine head shows top hoses but nothing for the VX
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If you do the VX route it would circulate all the time even with the thermostat closed. :yes:
yeah thats what i want, trying to google it now but no fucking luck at all :'( and i may be really stupid because i cant find it in the 92-95 helms either looked under coolant, heater, and engine head shows top hoses but nothing for the VX
I think I found it in a chiltons once. :-\
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If you do the VX route it would circulate all the time even with the thermostat closed. :yes:
yeah thats what i want, trying to google it now but no fucking luck at all :'( and i may be really stupid because i cant find it in the 92-95 helms either looked under coolant, heater, and engine head shows top hoses but nothing for the VX
I think I found it in a chiltons once. :-\
ill just take a pic if i see it in autozone LOL
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that was easy enough just look it up as a part LOL
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hondapartsdeals.com%2Fhpa%2Fimages%2Fillustration%2F42%2F749658.png&hash=7e8898fa55db0f570e4136b4981fce49a618f83c)
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did some more WORK today :D
energy suspension master kit, the joys that await removing every single bushing in the car
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash1%2Fhs559.ash1%2F32557_432681616270_563321270_5976587_7166974_n.jpg&hash=7162d67cb94f76911b9bc442d2a48b1ce3aa70cd)
figured while i was at it might as well just clean and pain the shit, stealth black bushings FTW
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net%2Fhs659.snc3%2F32557_432682261270_563321270_5976597_7679224_n.jpg&hash=7e81e6068eca27324dd6b25cc6a28e5a6fe22b2c)
after a while i guess the vice had enough
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F2cce5182.jpg&hash=1d3f69d641356aaf8a6fdebacff6b513448311f4)
FUCK YOU STOCK BUSHINGS
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that is all
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Get a torch, and light all the bushings on fire. Then they press out with ease.
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Get a torch, and light all the bushings on fire. Then they press out with ease.
i torched them but the propane one sucks lol
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc3%2Fhs593.snc3%2F31257_437173931270_563321270_6100040_7809303_n.jpg&hash=fbbb0715db9233ecad01a661a49ae54ba8a51468)
got the gay-sports in, kinda a pain to adjust but not bad, i put 1 full turn of preload on the spring and measured to make sure they are all in even. as a start I put them at 2" of threads exposed all around and will adjust from here once i put it on the ground
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been in here way to long......
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they fit!!! but out back its so close to the arm its less then 1/2" not sure how i feel about that. . . maybe spacer and extended studs in the future?
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash1%2Fhs533.ash1%2F31257_437175366270_563321270_6100083_5893379_n.jpg&hash=57296053c31b2d0e65b95d8789e96a27e9b760c1)
really not a fan of their hose bracket but w/e. I figured for the money they would make it mount like stock, guess not
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi791.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fyy198%2FEKVTIS%2F003.jpg&hash=354f091493713351367f5d38a6f92ba86df3abd5)
was just about done then BAM honda bolt syndrome struck me at last.
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Looks good, curious on how those K-sports work for you.
I may try these in the future.
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Looks good, curious on how those K-sports work for you.
I may try these in the future.
ill let you know in a bit once its on the ground they are the typical chink coilover nothing to crazy but i got them for cheap so whatever.
I just need to get that fucking bolt out! i cut the bushing out using a cutoff wheel and the LCA is now free. Ive tried welding a nut or bolt onto the snapped bolt to turn it out. When i try to turn it through the welded nut/bolt snaps off :?:
thats the only thing stopping me from driving it. . . one fucking bolt......
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anyone have any experience with wheel spacers? I think im gonna pick up some 5mm spacers and hope i dont have to run the extended studs will only be run on the slicks they ran me 17 bucks off the fleabay anyone have a source on a cheaper pair?
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-picked up some 5mm spacers off ebay for the slicks
-got the ksports somewhat adjusted all within about 1/4 of an inch of where i want them, ill play with it some more tomorrow
-the 225's fit pretty good up front they run for sure on full lock but its not bad
-throw the bumper on, align it and track wednesday on the street tires!!!!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash1%2Fhs534.ash1%2F31317_441325916270_563321270_6218644_3317862_n.jpg&hash=e5c3e4dc8ba78f0627547b4878c0bc1a4ccf464a)
oh yeah the falkens look fucking sexy :D
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I love your 4dr!
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I love your 4dr!
Thanks man now I just need to get the motivation to swap in the vitara motor to make it even more fun lol
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need to fix stance less low!
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225's rub a tad at full lock but itsnt bad
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash1%2Fhs548.ash1%2F32017_441477301270_563321270_6223028_4436290_n.jpg&hash=8c0e2b8db07668f1e41c1415a4f0d5a3e0f9e399)
discontinued rarity, 11.5lbs each, falken goodness
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I'm liking the way this build is turning out. :yes: ;D
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Im pretty sure youre supposed to run extended studs with slicks, per NHRA rules. Ill try and look it up.
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I'm liking the way this build is turning out. :yes: ;D
thanks man! yeah its been fun, nice to finaly see it come together FINALY
Im pretty sure youre supposed to run extended studs with slicks, per NHRA rules. Ill try and look it up.
yeah im really not sure ill try and sneak it by the tech by showing up on streets and just swapping to slicks LOL
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the rule on wheel studs is you are suppose to have 1 and 1/2 times of engagement on the threads so
12mm X 1.5mm = 18mm of engaged threads.
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the rule on wheel studs is you are suppose to have 1 and 1/2 times of engagement on the threads so
12mm X 1.5mm = 18mm of engaged threads.
makes sence ill have to measure how long the stock studs are, how thick the ray wheel is add 5mm to it and see if i have enough left on the stud
thanks for the info!
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oh so sexy
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-snc4%2Fhs105.snc4%2F35618_441988371270_563321270_6235764_2463120_n.jpg&hash=4b0eadfe536bd87682926fe9b43f1023f222d1b7)
pardon the finger
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she pulls fucking NIIIIIIICE :D the ra1's grab like all hell not a lot of rub with the 225's at all really
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http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=14488.0 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=14488.0)
rebuilt a china man LSD i got for dirt and in new shape
now to hunt a spare EX tranny to use
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got bored today and had a bit of free time so figured do work on the CIV!
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kinda pissed at myself, i didnt acomidate for the heat/shrink of the DP flange so now its touching the oilpan from the bottom :( also forgot to plug up an extra coolant pipe before throwing it in, but nothing some jb wont fix
the plan right now is to just hook it up minimal and fire it up to make sure everything is ok internaly before putting everything back in.
one of the bearings had a cut/scratch in it so im hoping it will be ok, really dont want to take all this back out if it doesnt run 100% :/
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DO WORK!!!!
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DO WORK!!!!
I have Friday off so I'll hook up the essentials and do a test fire to see how it all goes hope the bearings are ok.
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Damn sir, this build is getting better. You just need a stock bumper and you'll be set. Send me those slicks?