:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: Jorsher on May 04, 2009, 11:33:12 PM
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After years of whoring here, I finally have something worthwhile coming together. Previous two "builds" never were finished due to financial hard times, but times are better (for now).
The only picture I have:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/crx3.jpg)
The block is currently at R&R Speed Shop here in Huntsville, AL. I'm not sure on their experience with Hondas, since walking into their shop I only saw V6s and mostly V8s laying around, but they seem like a good, down-to-earth group of country boys that will get it done right.
Parts list:
B18B block
B16A head
GSR crank
GSR Wiseco pistons
GSR TT rods
Thick Cometic headgasket (should drop compression to around 9.2:1)
ARP head studs
Blox intake manifold
Wide, unknown-brand throttle body
B16A hydro transmission
OBD0-OBD1 conversion harness
Chipped P28
VTAK water/oil pumps, dizzy
GSR cams
CRX SiR shift linkage
Competition Clutch 6-puck sprung stage 4
B16 exhaust manifold
2.5" crush-bent exhaust and cheap muffer
Shit I still need to buy:
Ferrea valves
Supertech springs/retainers
Hydro conversion
Boost stuff
Things that I have and probably will never get off my ass to install:
JK Motorsports traction bar
Relocate Odyssey battery
ITR front/RSX rear calipers
Should be updating with swap in 2-4 weeks.
Boost will be ready before the stealth shuttle
Aiming for 400-500whp of insanity.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2009-09-18104435.jpg)
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nice looking rex
400-500? on 2.5" crush bent?
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nice looking rex
400-500? on 2.5" crush bent?
No, will be upgraded.
Just what's on it now. I expect NA for 4.3 years.
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nice looking rex
400-500? on 2.5" crush bent?
No, will be upgraded.
Just what's on it now. I expect NA for 4.3 years.
Solid.
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+1 ;D
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Sweet CRX man sounds like a wild build. :evil:
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Kickass update on my ultimate build.
Called the shop, since it's been 3 weeks, and they said it would take 2-3 weeks.
Me: Just checking if it's done
Them: Well, we have it cleaned and the flywheel resurfaced. We've been behind because one of the guys' dad died and he hasn't been here.
Guess I'll go ahead and buy more shit I don't need.
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Just what's on it now. I expect NA for 4.3 years.
In that case, I'd suggest you just run an OEM mls hg for now. You'll have a little more power for the time being, and possibly better gas milage too. That would end up paying for the HG after 4.3 years...
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That thing looks sweet dude.
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You still don't have a buid thread :P
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What mounts you running?
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Just what's on it now. I expect NA for 4.3 years.
In that case, I'd suggest you just run an OEM mls hg for now. You'll have a little more power for the time being, and possibly better gas milage too. That would end up paying for the HG after 4.3 years...
That was just my way of saying I don't have any "deadlines" to get the boost done. Engine is in somewhat of a rush since mine makes the Valdez look good with all the oil it burns.
Too lazy to swap the headgasket later. I don't see boost taking more than a year, I already have the thick headgasket (so buying another OEM one wouldn't save money), and even if I lose 10-20 horsepower due to the compression drop, it'll still be about 2x as powerful as the worn out whore that's in it now.
You still don't have a buid thread :P
Waiting on the motherfucking shop (need the hotrex smiley)
What mounts you running?
I dunno, was told they were innovative but they don't look like them. No fucking clue.
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My innovative mounts had the name cut into the mounts.
Hurry up and get this done. I'm tired of riding slow and I don't see my fail boat self being boosted anytime soon.
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I'm tired of refilling the oil weekly and leaving a cloud of smoke in my wake...
A fine, possibly underaged female complimented the CRX yesterday. I left her in a cloud of burnt oil chyeeeaaah
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;) Good shit
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+1 for huntsvegas jailbait, far nicer than the slim pickins we have here in gadrock
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+1 for huntsvegas jailbait, far nicer than the slim pickins we have here in gadrock
Saw a couple twins walking the other day :o :o Good stuff
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pics or it didnt happen ;)
man i need to get back up there, maybe tonight....or maybe the ham....
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pics or it didnt happen ;)
man i need to get back up there, maybe tonight....or maybe the ham....
What area are you from?
Called the shop today, 2 weeks since I called last time. They said the block has been honed...
They said it should be done next week ::)
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the mean streets of gadsden, when im not working in some fuckhole of a place like kentucky.
so it took those guys 2 weeks to hone a block? for future reference, there is a great machine shop in albertville/boaz called Abby's machine shop. they've done most of my machine work, and alot of close friends very quick cars machine work.
thats a clean rex too, i like
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the mean streets of gadsden, when im not working in some fuckhole of a place like kentucky.
so it took those guys 2 weeks to hone a block? for future reference, there is a great machine shop in albertville/boaz called Abby's machine shop. they've done most of my machine work, and alot of close friends very quick cars machine work.
thats a clean rex too, i like
Yeah, 5 weeks they've disassembled the block (just needed crank removed, pulley bolt was a bitch when the block isn't attached to anything), surfaced the flywheel, cleaned the block, and bored the cylinders. Supposedly, by mid next week they'll have the head disassembled (just valves/springs), cleaned, and verify mating surface is smooth...and block they'll have honed, assembled (pistons, crank, rods, etc), decked, and balanced. I don't see it happening. They're a good shop that has been around forever, I just think they give lower priority to people they'll make less money from.
Thanks, the pics don't quite capture the rusty window trim, dried/shrunk seals, etc.
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Well good luck buddy......I'd be calling making a nuisance of myself until they finished.
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Shop finally called and said the block is finished...and told me it would cost $890 :?:
Sounded a bit crazy to me since the original estimate was $350 for the block work and $140 for the head, but I'll check the itemized ticket and see what the hell supposedly cost so much before I pay.
Glad it's finally done, though.
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dude i gotta tell ya, there's alssloads of
(http://pedobearpics.com/pedobearpics.gif)
in both gadsden & huntsville.
just tell two people you're going to go wakeboarding on the coosa or swimming and youll have a set clamoring to go. find a friend with a boat and make the most of the rest of the summer
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/girlz/0807092233.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/girlz/0807092213.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/girlz/0807092135.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/girlz/0807092115.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/girlz/0807092054.jpg)
or start telling enough girls youve got extra room at the beach. that's a classic (the key is doing it on a month's notice no more no less)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/girlz/0807092343.jpg)
gadsden is looooooaded
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Yes, assloads here.
As long as you stay away from the shitty parts of Huntsville (north, downtown), you can walk anywhere and be aroused.
Thanks for improving this thread with pics of southern belles.
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anytime, since we got the tower on the boat and its the loudest thing on the river now all the ssy like riding in it. if noone feels like going out we can normally get atleast *something* descent to look at on a lunch break. just meet them at the downtown docks.
tower has 4x KS650's & 2x 6.5" CompVR subs. another pair of KS650's inside the boat.
playing nig-nog stuff that has sirens, whistels, etc you can hear it more than a mile away on the water. anything else if you know the song you can sing along at 3/4 mile (behind the boat, about 1/4 mile infront of it)
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goddamn i need a addresse them hoes beez fine son,,,oh yeah um nice car gl wit that..
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just move to alabama and toss a rock.
all the hotties & good gas prices, weather & low utilities are south man
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Huntsville you'll be even better :) Cheap property, cost of living, space, jobs, and somewhat has shit to do...
I like it here.
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And space camp! Went there twice it was awesome.
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playing nig-nog stuff that has sirens, whistels, etc you can hear it more than a mile away on the water. anything else if you know the song you can sing along at 3/4 mile (behind the boat, about 1/4 mile infront of it)
Awesome wanna be wigger frat boys can now pollute the water with your stupid Vapid bullshit just like you do everywhere else you drive. Sweet. I feel bad for every other poor soul around you that has to hear your stupid bullshit as you try oh so hard to bang girls half your age who pretty much give it up to anything with a cool boat/car/house/beachhouse/concert tickets/drugs and or alcohol.
Like i don't get this mentality. I have a sweet ass loud system in the car too and at no point ever since high school have i felt it necessary to play that shit top notch through neighbor hoods or parked at my gas station so everyone can think im cool. When did kids like stop caring who they pissed off?
Man i sound old. Cliffnotes: Toys your a fucking toolbox, a vessel for Many many tools.
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jealousy jealousy jealousy. we play anything and everything mostly whatever cd's ladies bring along.
we go through the middle of city, with bridges, docks, bays, houses, a golf course, everyone waves. even the bass fishermen - who are the pickeyst bunch of all.
no stares, no birds.
frats are gay, never had a part of it. jago probably did, but that's a different story.
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(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2009-09-18104435.jpg)
Finally...can move forward.
This weekend I'll begin putting it in. Of course, I'm sure I'll find more shit I need to buy once we get started.
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Looks awesome and fresh.
and toys is a tool. that is all.
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Not much of an update but hurre goes:
Partially pieced together:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/2009-10-04-180921.jpg)
Thought I didn't have the cam caps for the head, but fortunately Doug found them.
Tore the inside to pieces because "it's a lot easier to get the pedal assembly out if you get the dash out first."
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/2009-12-01131356.jpg)
Fuck that shit.
I ended up spending a lot of time on the dash before saying "fuck it" and just dropping the steering column and taking out the pedal assembly using basic damn tools. Broke my damn climate control getting the dash out >:(
Also found out there are hydro and cable mounts so have to get hydraulic mounts which fortunately someone here has.
Been wet, cold, and dark, so I have been lazy. Maybe I'll finish next month.
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Do more work!
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WTF is taking you so long?
:P
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shit son i work faster than you
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Finally had some decent weather to work outside in today. Had to be high 50s, sun shining, clear sky.
Tomorrow should finally be able to get the gangsta d-series out... Need a punch to get the pin out of the shift linkage (unless someone has a ghetto idea, tried using random shit but the hole running through it messed up my plans), and need a puller to get the uhhh steering rod thing off the wheel thing so I can move it out the way and pull the axles.
Any nigjineering advice welcomed.
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I have used a tiny 1/4 inch socket, a deep one with a step in it, if u can envision what im saying
(http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/1350.jpg)
ive never used a punch i just dig thru my tool box till i find something to wack on with a hammer
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I'd like to take a moment and interupt this thread by saying
I pooped today.
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Jorsher ain't lazy...
Had some decent weather, so today:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-01-19155110.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-01-19155215.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-01-19155240.jpg)
Things I learned:
1 - The bitch pin in the shift linkage is a bitch. Used an actual 1/4" punch and it was much easier but still a bitch.
2 - Don't take out an axle until you have both axle nuts off. I took one out, and couldn't loosen the other axle nut because the wheel was spinning freely. Got it off by putting the other side suspension back together, putting the wheels back on, then lowering it so they were both on the ground. Had to pull the e-brake extra-speshial hard because it was still moving the car trying to break the nut free.
3 - Crank pulley bolts are not the biggest pain in the ass -- axle nuts are. Fucking bitch. First I tried brute strength. My massive arms quickly shattered the breaker bar and I needed a titanium breaker bar. I angled the breaker bar so that I could let the weight of the car down on it and it'd break free. Unfortunately, with the jack fully lowered, the nut still wasn't broken because the breaker bar dug into the concrete driveway. I used a jack under the end of the breaker bar and jacked it up. Was a little worried about the breaker bar shattering since it was noticeably bending, threw a towel over it to prevent metal shards from lodging in my massive brain, kept jacking, heard a loud pop, crossed my fingers, checked and nothing broke except the nut broke free. Success.
4 - Thanks to Doug for this link -- http://www.d-series.org/forums/transmission-alley/14079-diy-tranny-removal-input-shaft-bearing-change.html (http://www.d-series.org/forums/transmission-alley/14079-diy-tranny-removal-input-shaft-bearing-change.html) It was fucking pimp and worked perfectly. Beating the shit outta the lower arm wasn't working, and I was limited on my amount of tools.
Now, to finish putting the B-series in there...
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For number 2 a screw driver or small pry bar on the brake caliper works perfect!
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For number 2 a screw driver or small pry bar on the brake caliper works perfect!
Damn didn't think of that.
Actually, i shoved one in the flywheel because the ebrake wasn't enough, and now it is stuck as fuck in the flywheel.
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Weather finally stopped with the rain/snow/cold nonsense and I got a little more done :noel:
Replaced this:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-01-25130813.jpg)
With the JK Motorsports traction bar I bought 2-3 years ago and let collect dust:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-02-19155733.jpg)
Amazing how much space it frees up. Will have to ziptie the half-rad to it so the hood will shut. There were tabs already on it for a half-rad, but they were on the front ??? There was also a metal tab where the little vertical bar in front of the AC radiator thing was supposed to bolt to...but I don't see how the fuck you were supposed to take off the front, lower, crossmember thing without the use of a sawzall, and still don't understand how tabs in front of the a/c radiator thing would be useful for a radiator? Maybe whoever sold it to me can enlighten me. Ended up breaking off the mounting piece for the vertical-bar piece since it was hitting the bumper and I couldn't put up the traction bar high enough to bolt it on...
Then, the tow-hook holes on one side were a couple millimeters too low and it wouldn't match up, was bolted to the bottom of the frame (where the old crossmember was) as tight as possible, so there was no way to move the bar any higher. Ended up taking a drill to it and drilling the holes a little larger. Complete PITA drilling through steel :P
Today got the Suja 1 Motoring cable/hydro clutch conversion installed:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-02-20162936.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-02-20163037.jpg)
Had to take the dash out to get the damn driver side air box/vent crap out the way, as it needs to be removed for the conversion. The metal where the radio/climate control crap is sliced my middle finger sideways on the inside of the knuckle, didn't notice until I felt a nice warm liquid running down my hand, now have another sweet cut flap of skin O0
The pin that is supposed to go through the master cylinder and clutch pedal would not fit due to the person that welding it leaving too much slag and not centering the washer, didn't feel like taking the assembly back out so found a stray bolt and nut and threw on some lock-tite for extra security.
I think the MC should have been mounted with the feed/pressure lines facing downward, but it wouldn't fit facing that way because of the pressure line fitting. Contemplated beating a dent into the car so it would, but ultimately decided to flip the MC over. Anyone know if it matters if the feed line is facing UP to the MC? I hope the MC sucks from the feed line and it's not gravity fed...
Got dash back in and finally replaced the main relay. Tomorrow I get to reconnect all the plugs/wires and hope I don't swap any connectors, then put the seat in...
Next, need to get the rear mount off. The back bolt is a bitch to get to...guess I'll just unbolt the steering rack and let it drop down?
Should have engine pieced together except for intake mani and TB that chris is working magic on...
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i like! dig the hydro trans in the rex :yes:
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also whats that cost?
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also whats that cost?
$150 for just the bracket (the black piece) and comes with whatever screws/pins/etc you need. I'm sure you could make it for much, much cheaper, and expect to see some knockoffs in the future, but I have no fab skills/tools/patience.
You have to remove your pedal assembly and have a couple washers welded to the "clip" part of the clutch pedal...I paid a local welder $10 to do it...he did a shitty job but whatever.
You need a reservoir obviously, and some brake fluid safe line...about 1-2ft of it (found some online for $3 a foot).
You need a pressure line, can make your own for cheap but I am lazy and don't want to fool with it, so paid the same people $75 for a nice long braided line.
You need an MC, shouldn't be hard to find.
Much much much easier to install with the dashboard off. I got the pedal assembly out with the dash still in, but the driver side airbox thing that needs to be removed -- didn't see the bolt to remove it until I took the dash out, then needed to take off that bent steel tube that goes from the console to the driver side vent.
Seems like the best option for hydro conversion. Once you get the clutch cable out, you have a nice hole in the firewall to shove the pressure and feed lines through.
www.suja1motoring.com (http://) (http://) sells them. Gotta email the guy.
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Please tell me you didn't pull the engine form the top. :?:
It is ridiculously easy to pull the engine form the bottom on these cars.
Good to see some progress nig nog.
Do you have all of the shit you need finally?
Planning to keep AC?
I would love to find a rust free CRX.
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Yeah, I pulled it from the top. I suppose it would be easy from the bottom since there's not really shit in the way (unlike the top), but I don't see how it'd be easier than using a hoist. I'm not even sure I could have got the car up high enough to get it out from the bottom, unless I hooked the hoist to the front or stuffed some bricks under the jacks :P
All the rest of the parts I NEED are on the way (I think).
I plan to keep AC, however it stopped working last summer and it's cold, so I'm going to procrastinate until summer when I need it.
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Yeah, I pulled it from the top. I suppose it would be easy from the bottom since there's not really shit in the way (unlike the top), but I don't see how it'd be easier than using a hoist. I'm not even sure I could have got the car up high enough to get it out from the bottom, unless I hooked the hoist to the front or stuffed some bricks under the jacks :P
All the rest of the parts I NEED are on the way (I think).
I plan to keep AC, however it stopped working last summer and it's cold, so I'm going to procrastinate until summer when I need it.
You got it. lol.
Let me know if you eer decide to keep the AC. If I don't put the B17 in my ED hatch, then I would be willing to sell the Hasport EFAC bracket that I have.
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Yeah, I pulled it from the top. I suppose it would be easy from the bottom since there's not really shit in the way (unlike the top), but I don't see how it'd be easier than using a hoist. I'm not even sure I could have got the car up high enough to get it out from the bottom, unless I hooked the hoist to the front or stuffed some bricks under the jacks :P
All the rest of the parts I NEED are on the way (I think).
I plan to keep AC, however it stopped working last summer and it's cold, so I'm going to procrastinate until summer when I need it.
You got it. lol.
Let me know if you eer decide to keep the AC. If I don't put the B17 in my ED hatch, then I would be willing to sell the Hasport EFAC bracket that I have.
That's actually the big reason I haven't decided to put it in yet...don't really have money to throw around on unnecessary crap and didn't expect to find a used one.
PM me a price and if it's right I'll buy it now, if not I will in a month or two assuming you still have it.
edit - if you decide not to put in the b17 :P
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We can talk when you have some income.
I will more than likely still have it in a few months.
8)
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:noel:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-03-07170422.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-03-07170415.jpg)
Need to slice up the hood tomorrow, as it won't shut.
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Nice, now did you beat in the alt area enough?
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You need to slice up the hood? that is kind of odd. did you remove the hood insulation first?
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Nice, now did you beat in the alt area enough?
More than enough ;) I dropped the motor in with the alternator attached, fit nicely.
You need to slice up the hood? that is kind of odd. did you remove the hood insulation first?
Nope, did not remove the insulation. Some other were telling me I shouldn't need to hack anything with the Hasport mounts, so maybe that's what it is.
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Mine rubbed on the hood insulation for a long time with the Innovative mounts. I finally got fed up with haveing to have two people to open the hood, so I ripped that shit out. No more problems after that.
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Well my b18 hits pretty hard on my hood with the insalation, I too have hasport mounts but I think if I were to pull it out I thing my hood would get fucking hammered by my valve cover.
Looks good man, nice to see your car making forward progress.
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Well my b18 hits pretty hard on my hood with the insalation, I too have hasport mounts but I think if I were to pull it out I thing my hood would get fucking hammered by my valve cover.
Looks good man, nice to see your car making forward progress.
Yeah, I'll remove the insulation. If it still doesn't sit flush then I'll cut some of the ribbing out. If it still won't sit, I'll get some spacers :/
When I forced the hood closed without it bolted onto the hinges, it wouldn't pop open unless I had someone pick up the end where the hinges are and I don't want it to be a hassle whenever I need to pop the hood.
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Well my b18 hits pretty hard on my hood with the insalation, I too have hasport mounts but I think if I were to pull it out I thing my hood would get fucking hammered by my valve cover.
Looks good man, nice to see your car making forward progress.
Yeah, I'll remove the insulation. If it still doesn't sit flush then I'll cut some of the ribbing out. If it still won't sit, I'll get some spacers :/
When I forced the hood closed without it bolted onto the hinges, it wouldn't pop open unless I had someone pick up the end where the hinges are and I don't want it to be a hassle whenever I need to pop the hood.
Mine is not anywhere near that hard. Its just rubbing the paint off of my vc.
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I used a grinder on one of the ribs of the hood. If you look at the car from the side, you can see where the engine sticks up above the fender a centimeter or two. Fuck it...I'm going to bolt the hood on and bend it over the engine, it'll still latch, just waiting to get the intake mani back and installed first.
Everything is pretty much wired up...all that's left is to get the exhaust taken care of and intake mani installed.
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Don't fuck up your hood mang. Either put washers on the hood hinges, or could you maybe put some washers on the engine side of the mounts to lower the engine a touch? Just the two side mounts, on the bottom side of each mount where they connect to the tranny and engine. I'm pretty sure you could do that, and it would take 15 minutes
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IT'S ALIVE!!!1
Got the rest of it together today, thanks Doug & Ryan.
Rigged the battery in the back, haven't bothered with getting it in the rear compartment yet so right now it's just sitting on the spare tire. Hooked jumper cables to it and the car would draw power but wouldn't start. After letting it charge for 15-20 minutes and it still not starting, Doug made the suggestion that maybe one of the grounds wasn't connected. Didn't have an official transmission ground but bolted the old negative cable to it and let the negative terminal touch the body. Started just fine after that after the firing order was corrected...
Am running open header at the moment since it is about half a foot short of the exhaust, so you can imagine it's loud as fuck.
The stage 4 competition clutch took a little to get used to, but it isn't hardly as bad as I expected. Only slightly stiffer than the old stock cable clutch.
Didn't bolt the seat down with all the excitement of the car running. Letting off the clutch, having it jerk the car and thus rock the seat back made for a humorous first drive...
Woke up everyone in Hazel Green with some high RPM, open header rippers.
Fun little car.
Lights dimmed about 5 minutes into driving it. Will need to permanently ground the transmission to the body tomorrow. Amazing what that one ground does... Also need to bleed the coolant system as the car started to overheat. Then just need to bolt on the hood, seat, and get the exhaust taken care of.
Now to get a job and a big, fat turbo.
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:evil: It looks like fun bro, good ole screamin' yellow O0
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Dont blow her up!
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:'(
Today was going to change the oil and bleed coolant before driving. Went to dump oil and only a quart came out. Oil was all over the back of the block. Thought *maybe* the oil filter didn't seal well. Put a new one on, opened radiator cap to finish filling the cooling system and started the car...oil/coolant started overflowing out the top.
So...head is back off. Hope to have it back together tonight or tomorrow.
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Sweet. Hopefully the handfuls of extra nuts/bolts will come in handy.
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Sweet. Hopefully the handfuls of extra nuts/bolts will come in handy.
Yes actually some of them did, thanks
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If you need to order another odd part from me just let me know about bolts etc I have bins full of them and usually try to give a couple extra out when I ship parts these days.
I remember back when I first started this stuff having a couple extra odd bolts/nuts was a lifesaver.
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I had enough to get it together and have a few spares of my own now that I ripped off the old one, so should be good, but thanks for that.
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I think thats my new sales move of 2010. Some people send stickers I send 12mm bolts.
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Haha, packaging was top-notch again as always, everything packaged in boxes, with more boxes, in a box. Liked the random 12-pack soft drink box and single balled up piece of printer paper.
As far as my car, possibly have my gun sold which will cover getting my head leak tested (a shop can do that, right?) and getting a new block machined to install.
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jorsher sucks at shipping though :P
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Haha, packaging was top-notch again as always, everything packaged in boxes, with more boxes, in a box. Liked the random 12-pack soft drink box and single balled up piece of printer paper.
As far as my car, possibly have my gun sold which will cover getting my head leak tested (a shop can do that, right?) and getting a new block machined to install.
I actually had an ebayer question my packing process. Of course everything showed up fine. Im assuming his wife is a stripper and cheats on him.
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Do work!
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Do work!
GOD DAMN STEVE. YOU NEED TO DO WORK!!!!
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jorsher sucks at shipping though :P
Hahahaha :noel: I won't ever make that particular shipping mistake again.
Me do work? I've been doing just that :D
Will be slapping the engine back together Thurs/Fri and we'll see how she runs.
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MOTHERFUCKER is back to an empty engine bay. Ridiculous how easy it is after just doing it once...
New head and block on the way for round 2.
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Received the ITR head from Chris today.
Packaging that you should expect from a Chris-shipped item...
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/32d2fdc3.jpg)
Bag of misc nuts/bolts/etc, always comes in handy
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/b129c163.jpg)
Shiny, individually wrapped in USPS envelopes and then packed in a box, packed in the big box.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/8b53fdb7.jpg)
Have no worries about running this as-is
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/7e5d3592.jpg)
Got the engine torn down, but won't be able to pop out the rotating assembly til tomorrow... have a lawn to mow.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/2d939d63.jpg)
Just waiting on the block, then the shop, then will hopefully have it back together and running well.
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Not much of an update but got some more shit done. Block came in Friday and was promptly stripped down. Plastigaged the bearings and all is in spec. Monday, will drop off the block to be bored/honed/decked/cleaned, head to be resurfaced, and flywheel to be resurfaced since I saw a couple nicks in it...
They said it would take a couple days, as long as they have it done by the weekend I will be satisfied. As long as I get it back by the weekend, should be up and running within hours.
Today went ahead and finished up the battery relocation since it's just been sitting on the spare tire. Used an Odyssey PC680 sealed dry-cell battery, which is significantly better/cheaper than the well-marketed Optima batteries. Comes with a good warranty, plenty of CCAs, and supposed to handle 400 complete discharges. I've already put it through about 5...need to wire in a buzzer for when the headlights are left on.
This is it in the compartment behind the seats. Fits like it was made to go there.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/4f8f278f.jpg)
Compartment closed.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/fa39ebed.jpg)
Grounded to the spare tire holding bolt. Thick and goes into the chassis. Didn't want to drill any new holes and risk puncturing the gas tank, as that would be my luck.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/e0721072.jpg)
My m4d tyte JDM CTR N1 crank pulley came in. The original B18B one has a few small pieces missing. I've heard this will make it off balance which won't be too great for your bearings at higher RPMs, but I was more concerned about it chewing up the alternator belt. Also, there is barely enough space to work with it while the engine is in the car, not sure if I would have been able to remove it without unbolting the mount and lowering the engine. Don't have power steering, and would be too big of a hassle to try to keep air conditioner and fit a turbo in there, so had no use for the extra belt grooves.
So, fresh new crank pulley, about 1/3 the weight, extra space, and OEM quality.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/5936bf9d.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/6fcdd169.jpg)
Also sealed up the leaks. The seam-sealer stuff along the "rain rails" and hatch are starting to show their age, and the little cracks let water drip into the cabin. Just pulled the rain rails out, ran a layer of RTV sealant over it all, and it should hold up until I pick up a nice S2000 and can strip this down to have it painted...
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are you parting the old crx at all or whats going on with it?
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are you parting the old crx at all or whats going on with it?
I took what I wanted from it and sent to the scrap yard. I had to get it off the land.
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You need a better ground than that. The unibody is not a ground although it "works"
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You need a better ground than that. The unibody is not a ground although it "works"
What would be a better one? What was the original wire grounded to?
Do I really need a fuse? I've seen them mentioned on battery relocation write-ups, but the original battery location didn't have one.
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One ground to rule them all.
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You need a better ground than that. The unibody is not a ground although it "works"
What would be a better one? What was the original wire grounded to?
Do I really need a fuse? I've seen them mentioned on battery relocation write-ups, but the original battery location didn't have one.
The engine is the best ground. You should have a battery fuse in the fuse box, other people are just pussies.
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You need a better ground than that. The unibody is not a ground although it "works"
What would be a better one? What was the original wire grounded to?
Do I really need a fuse? I've seen them mentioned on battery relocation write-ups, but the original battery location didn't have one.
The engine is the best ground. You should have a battery fuse in the fuse box, other people are just pussies.
Yeah, that's what I really didn't understand.
Didn't see the need for a second fuse just because I moved the battery.
Shop finished my machine work in a day, but I'm still waiting on bearings and a few other misc parts. Should have it all back together by next weekend.
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Picked up block, head, flywheel today. Bastards were supposed to put the piston rings on for me because I was afraid of snapping one like I did when trying to take them apart, but got them all on. Pistons installed, tomorrow finishing putting the bottom end together then hopefully can get the engine in Wednesday or Thursday.
Does it really matter where the ring gaps are located in relation to the piston? On one hand I doubt it'll matter since I thought they'd rotate, but I ended up doing what Wiseco said anyway. Ring compressor chopped my hands up, didn't notice until I started seeing blood everywhere :P
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Damn, I was unaware of this build. Nice man, I really wanna go B or just build up my D. Bottom line: I need moar power!
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Picked up block, head, flywheel today. Bastards were supposed to put the piston rings on for me because I was afraid of snapping one like I did when trying to take them apart, but got them all on. Pistons installed, tomorrow finishing putting the bottom end together then hopefully can get the engine in Wednesday or Thursday.
Does it really matter where the ring gaps are located in relation to the piston? On one hand I doubt it'll matter since I thought they'd rotate, but I ended up doing what Wiseco said anyway. Ring compressor chopped my hands up, didn't notice until I started seeing blood everywhere :P
Usually you want the ring gaps not line up with each other and not line op with wrist pin. Keep in mind the rings move around in the ring grooves anyway. :?:
A build would not be complete w/o some blood to help with engine assembly lubrication. ;D
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Picked up block, head, flywheel today. Bastards were supposed to put the piston rings on for me because I was afraid of snapping one like I did when trying to take them apart, but got them all on. Pistons installed, tomorrow finishing putting the bottom end together then hopefully can get the engine in Wednesday or Thursday.
Does it really matter where the ring gaps are located in relation to the piston? On one hand I doubt it'll matter since I thought they'd rotate, but I ended up doing what Wiseco said anyway. Ring compressor chopped my hands up, didn't notice until I started seeing blood everywhere :P
Usually you want the ring gaps not line up with each other and not line op with wrist pin. Keep in mind the rings move around in the ring grooves anyway. :?:
A build would not be complete w/o some blood to help with engine assembly lubrication. ;D
Yep, I've poured lots of blood into it.
Wiseco said to position the top ring and 2nd ring gaps 180 degrees from each other. The two oil ring gaps at least 90 degrees apart on the "back" of the engine (I'm assuming intake), and the funky oil ring facing the front. I did what it suggested anyway just didn't see the reason.
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Good thing to know. I found a b18 bloc for 80$ that I need to pick up after my exams. After that, I will need that kind of info :noel:
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Check this out it will give you a quick rundown and, just good videos.
http://articles.evans-tuning.com/2009/03/25/the-definitive-gsr-engine-build-video/ (http://articles.evans-tuning.com/2009/03/25/the-definitive-gsr-engine-build-video/)
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(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/rings.jpg)
This was what was on their ring info sheet.
Dunno if it matters but figured I'd do it in case it does. I wasn't sure what is considered the "front" of the engine so I just placed the piston so the text on it was not upside down and oriented the rings to the picture.
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Make sure after you get it running With in 5-10 min that you are out seating your rings. (as long as everything is good after it starts up.) Lots of 5k-2k compression breaking. It will seat your rings and you will have bitchen compression.
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Make sure after you get it running With in 5-10 min that you are out seating your rings. (as long as everything is good after it starts up.) Lots of 5k-2k compression breaking. It will seat your rings and you will have bitchen compression.
Definitely will be.
- Start
- Set ignition timing
- Check for leaks
- Bleed cooling system once thermostat opens
- Take out for rippers
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Make sure after you get it running With in 5-10 min that you are out seating your rings. (as long as everything is good after it starts up.) Lots of 5k-2k compression breaking. It will seat your rings and you will have bitchen compression.
Definitely will be.
- Start
- Set ignition timing
- Check for leaks
- Bleed cooling system once thermostat opens
- Take out for rippers
- Cut it off down the road because of a horrible knock and temp gauge maxed out
- Get it home to find out all the oil is gone and is now in the radiator
:P
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Couple corrections: never checked for leaks and there was never a knock 8)
Also temp guage never maxed out, only got to 75.33%
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Im waiting for knock in the next few hundred miles :evil:
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I refuse to believe that he will repeat the same failure. :?:
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I refuse to believe that he will repeat the same failure. :?:
You are correct sir.
This will go perfectly.
Flywheel has been resurfaced and the few nicks were removed.
Head has been tapped perfectly, has low miles, and resurfaced.
Block is low mile, no cracks, and decked.
Rings and bearings are new and properly installed.
What could possibly go wrong? :?:
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I refuse to believe that he will repeat the same failure. :?:
You are correct sir.
This will go perfectly.
Flywheel has been resurfaced and the few nicks were removed.
Head has been tapped perfectly, has low miles, and resurfaced.
Block is low mile, no cracks, and decked.
Rings and bearings are new and properly installed.
What could possibly go wrong? :?:
Your oil pump dies mid way through a ripper :-X
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That drawing is fucked up, like it's for a domestic or something. When you put the rings in, you want to make sure the gaps are not on the load bearing walls as the piston travels, and you want to make sure they are offset. IE don't put any ring gaps on the intake or exhaust side of piston.
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That drawing is fucked up, like it's for a domestic or something. When you put the rings in, you want to make sure the gaps are not on the load bearing walls as the piston travels, and you want to make sure they are offset. IE don't put any ring gaps on the intake or exhaust side of piston.
Right, and I positioned them according to that drawing with the lettering in the proper orientation. When you install them in the engine, the letters are upside down, and all the gaps are facing away from the load bearing wall ;)
Your oil pump dies mid way through a ripper :-X
I pray that does not happen. I bought a used oil pump from someone on here which I regret doing but it is supposedly only 70k miles and everything was in spec.
Before I boost I'll find someone that sells beefy oil pumps.
Theoretically, if it did esplode, I'd instantly get a CEL when the oil pressure dropped correct?
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oil light will pop up. Oem type r pumps are like 100 bucks. Worth the peace of mind.
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by the time i looked down said oshit oil light turned car of it was knockig like the police at the door
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Good to have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. I used to watch mine more than my speedometer. Then again, I've gotten a lot of tickets
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THIS OIL PUMP IS INVINCIBLE AND WILL LAST UNTIL I REPLACE IT BECAUSE JESUS LOVES ME AND HONDAS NEVER DIE
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by the time i looked down said oshit oil light turned car of it was knockig like the police on my door
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THIS OIL PUMP IS INVINCIBLE AND WILL LAST UNTIL I REPLACE IT BECAUSE JESUS LOVES ME AND HONDAS NEVER DIE
Y-49
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Good to have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. I used to watch mine more than my speedometer. Then again, I've gotten a lot of tickets
I think I have one if you need the piece of mind
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Good to have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. I used to watch mine more than my speedometer. Then again, I've gotten a lot of tickets
I think I have one if you need the piece of mind
I'll buy one with a gauge pillar and boost gauge later down the road. But prociate it.
Weather is supposed to suck Saturday but only a chance of shit weather Sunday...so will probably put the engine in then.
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SEEMS to be running as it should.
Waiting for the thermostat housing sealant to dry then taking it down the road.
No leaks this time, or oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil.
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I have a mechanical oil gauge you can have....
$10+ship?
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I have a mechanical oil gauge you can have....
$10+ship?
Sure but it'll be payday before I can pay you. I had to borrow money for gas to get it off E.
Took it around the 'hood. Seems to bog at lower RPMs, but seems to run great at WOT...is this because I have the O2 sensor disabled and am driving open header? Also think it might be running a bit rich, my friend said he could see a lot of black smoke while I was driving (which could be because of the new rings), but there was a lot of popping when I'd let off the gas from upper RPMs.
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I would enable the o2 and check your plugs.
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Since everyone likes pics:
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-04-25083922.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-04-28175841.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-04-28175830.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-04-28180007.jpg)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll5/J0r5h3r/Cars/2010-04-28180023.jpg)
Now just for boost...
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If the car is still running a little rough and ignition timing is cool no cel's a new set of plugs does wonders.
If you are running a stock bin file the car should run pretty solid
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If the car is still running a little rough and ignition timing is cool no cel's a new set of plugs does wonders.
If you are running a stock bin file the car should run pretty solid
Yeah, it still seems a little rough. No CELs, leaks, overheating, anything...but when accelerating it feels like it's surging. I will try a new set of plugs, maybe when I was running it for a while with the ignition timing/map not right it messed the plugs up. Was thinking maybe the fact that I am running open header and no O2 might have something to do with it too, but new plugs are cheap and won't hurt.
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Add; http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=435.msg5800#msg5800 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=435.msg5800#msg5800)
Is yours a 91?
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Add; http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=435.msg5800#msg5800 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=435.msg5800#msg5800)
Is yours a 91?
1990
LS-VTEC CRX (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8Q0_Vor6Ds#lq-lq2-hq-vhq) proof it runs
turn volume down at first radio is on, no bass, recorded on a phone
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Looks slow.
;D
Took you long enough dude. I guess you managed to triumph over the Y-49 curse...
For now.
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Yup, still slow, but definitely not near as slow as the a6. When I give it throttle, it accelerates :o
Honestly I'm waiting for the next thing to go wrong.
It somewhat stumbles when I am cruising or accelerating, although it doesn't happen/I don't notice it at WOT. I can feel a seemingly random slight power loss as I accelerate or cruise. Tomorrow will double-check there aren't any fuel leaks...I just fixed one when the o-ring on one of the injectors got chewed up somehow. I remember a previous car doing this too...kinda accelerates/cruises ____------__-_-----______-___------___----__-_____---- feeling like it randomly bogs. Runs though, I'm satisfied.
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spark plugs?
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Nah, it's all new. I wired in the O2 sensor and reflashed the chip and it seems to have gone away.
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Better vid without annoying music, and yes I know it's still slow:
1990 Honda CRX LS-VTEC 10 to 100 mph (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bp3aD3rBJ4#lq-lq2-hq-vhq)
Guess I'll grab a SpoolinPerformance manifold/downpipe, RC-E or Precision 880cc injectors, Walbro pump, T3/T04e .60, ebay FMIC, and a real WG/BOV.
I'm assuming I'll need an EBC for boost-by-gear?
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bump
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Make your sig larger
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Make your sig larger
Sig?
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Give me some free exposure on youtube fool since I sold you like 10 things for this build.
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Give me some free exposure on youtube fool since I sold you like 10 things for this build.
Sure thing, where do I direct them?