:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo

General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: HiProfile on November 25, 2012, 11:55:38 PM

Title: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on November 25, 2012, 11:55:38 PM
I've come to the point where I can make a thread.

Plan: toss an F22 onto an LS tranny, put into a daily-driver Integra. Do it again with a JDM H23A dohc vtec (aka "bluetop") in the spring, then try it on my (currently) turbocharged Civic. Except with an 11:1cr F22/H22 hybrid with K20A pistons (JDM ITR). Then see if a turbo fits, and swap the h22 head back onto the low-CR F22B2 block if it does. All w/o adapter plates, all with my special injectors.

So far I have an F22B1 from DasPoop, a beat-up F22A6 from some hispanic, and a dirty JDM H23A. The F22B1 is bolted to the LS trans and my test car (rusty 94 del sol vtec) just got the b16a3 yanked out today. By next week I hope to have the engine in to finalize the orientation of the engine/tranny. Then I can fab up the half-shaft bracket, the top engine/trans bracket, front engine/trans bracket, and the slave cyl extension bracket.



No good pictures til tuesday. I was too busy moving shit around and pulling the b16 today, sorry.


(http://imageshack.us/a/img543/1766/p1000280small.jpg)

(http://hosted.x-art.com/galleries/croatian_sun/x-art_eve_croatian_sun-13-sml.jpg)

(http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m5s4j3kbxc1r0xpreo1_1280.jpg)

(http://www.tumblr.com/photo/1280/mamelles/1397173309/1/tumblr_l78lk7X8Wk1qcjtev)

(http://www.angelsofglamour.com/high-res-ang-09/met-art_mariko_19_2.jpg)

(http://static-hosted.met-art.com/met-art_sk_90_250/full/met-art_sk_90_15.jpg)
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread
Post by: crxvtec91 on November 26, 2012, 12:46:33 PM
Well played!

While you fab up the brackets make 2, one for you and one for me. No im not kidding, and no I dont care how they look, and yes I have cash lol 
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread
Post by: PhilStubbs on November 26, 2012, 01:32:03 PM
In for the results. I am right in the middle of putting an F23 into a crx with H22 tranny
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread
Post by: HiProfile on November 26, 2012, 11:19:27 PM
Actually I was going to make two, one for each car. Making a third shouldn't be that hard. I have bolts to spare since I get grade 8's through work. The only oddball tool you have to buy is a 5/8"-11 thread tap, which I got for $10 on ebay. Then remove the bolt hole ear off the rear of the block, drill a 1/2" hole, and clearance the crank 1mm so the b-series pilot bearing can fit.

I really want this to work since modding the chassis is what I hate doing. I want something that I can swap from chassis to chassis if I have to, or replicate for someone else relatively easy. Mainly since my teg is a POS in the looks department.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread
Post by: crxvtec91 on November 26, 2012, 11:22:13 PM
Actually I was going to make two, one for each car. Making a third shouldn't be that hard. I have bolts to spare since I get grade 8's through work. The only oddball tool you have to buy is a 5/8"-11 thread tap, which I got for $10 on ebay. Then remove the bolt hole ear off the rear of the block, drill a 1/2" hole, and clearance the crank 1mm so the b-series pilot bearing can fit.

I really want this to work since modding the chassis is what I hate doing. I want something that I can swap from chassis to chassis if I have to, or replicate for someone else relatively easy. Mainly since my teg is a POS in the looks department.

Sounds good to me, keep me posted or ill text harass you :noel:
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread
Post by: HiProfile on November 29, 2012, 12:16:51 AM
I'll be stuffing the F2B into the del sol tomorrow, so I'll take some pictures then. Supposed to be nice out, for WI anyways, 43F and sunny.

This will be mainly for getting the motor angle set. I was waiting for the grade-8 bolts,  since I'll only have two 1/2" bolts holding the tranny on for now. It will be 11 bolts total in the end, grade 8 sae (1/2", 5/8") and 10.8 metric (12mm, 14mm).
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread
Post by: crxvtec91 on November 29, 2012, 05:10:21 PM
I'll be stuffing the F2B into the del sol tomorrow, so I'll take some pictures then. Supposed to be nice out, for WI anyways, 43F and sunny.

This will be mainly for getting the motor angle set. I was waiting for the grade-8 bolts,  since I'll only have two 1/2" bolts holding the tranny on for now. It will be 11 bolts total in the end, grade 8 sae (1/2", 5/8") and 10.8 metric (12mm, 14mm).

Tri state people run 3 by drolling one or 2 holes bigger to make the bolt fit the hole.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread
Post by: HiProfile on November 29, 2012, 05:56:41 PM
Got some work done today.

Hood closes perfectly with the f22 P/S bracket removed.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img594/7335/p1000285s.jpg)

This swap will go into my Integra, but it's a DD so I'm going to test it in the junker del sol. Now that it's in, I can make some brackets & finish the wiring. I plan do use the H23A's fuel rail on this, flipped left to right. The F22B1 has a funky fuel rail (bolts are above the injectors instead of below), but I'll make the JDM piece work. The fuel inlet is on the drivers side, flipping it puts the inlet right where I want for the Civic.


The alternator fits (took it off to get the alt bracket off). The crank pulley's alt belt teeth DO clear the frame, but only by a few MM's. No P/S unless you make your own brackets. I might try a 4-rib alt-p/s-a/c serpentine-like arrangement at some point, but the teg rack is easy enough to loop and my Civic rack is already looped.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img138/1082/p1000286s.jpg)


The BEST part - it uses all STOCK MOUNTS. B-series passenger mount & t-bracket, accord driver mount. The accord mount tube (which the bolt goes through) was shortened on the front by about 2mm to fit into the chassis slot. I bolted up the accord mount, then had to pry the tranny mount's tube towards the motor a few MM's to line up.

Driver's Mount with dip stick bent over to clear:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img266/2963/p1000290s.jpg)

T-bracket - needs to be cut & rewelded, thankfully the F/H block's "ear" is thinner to I'll just weld plates w/holes:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img208/5919/p1000296s.jpg)


Alignment of block to tranny. The B-series angles forwards, while the F/H-series angle backwards. The engine is almost sitting at the stock angle, offering much better clearance and header alignment than an EVO or QSD kit.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img818/1964/p1000312su.jpg)

(http://imageshack.us/a/img41/3831/p1000299s.jpg)

(http://imageshack.us/a/img593/1793/p1000298s.jpg)

This is the bracket I plan to make, except with angle iron and machined tubes/spacers below the engine block's bolts. I'll also have one more bracket below the slave cylinder that uses the original block & tranny's 12mm bolt holes. I'll also be making an angled bracket to space out the slave cylinder similar to how QSD does with a slotted aluminum bracket. NOT MY PICTURE/ENGINE:

(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x360/morfpics/IMG00736-20120926-1035.jpg)


The IACV and TPS are very close to the firewall, and I'll have to relocate the fuel filter. I think a d-series chassis Civic's filter will clear better since it's angled and closer to the passenger side.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img72/7153/p1000293s.jpg)


Mods needed on the block & trans: cut off the lower rear bolt-hole ear on the F22 block, sand down a ridge right below the slave mount holes, grind the front hole I drill in the block flat for a nut/lock washer, and thread the tranny's upper 2 bolt holes with a 5/8"-11 tap for grade-8 SAE bolts.



Decided to take pics of my extra stuff.

JDM H23A dohc vtec:

(http://imageshack.us/a/img24/2701/p1000305s.jpg)


$5 bolt that saved me $300+ (just left of the water pump gear):

(http://imageshack.us/a/img24/5720/p1000308s.jpg)


STOCK B16A3 & trans:

(http://imageshack.us/a/img825/5072/p1000303s.jpg)


Beat-up F22A6, hope to use for the 86mm 11:1cr H22/F22 build:

(http://imageshack.us/a/img809/4539/p1000301s.jpg)


JDM H22A head & manifold for the above 11:1cr H22/F22 build:

(http://imageshack.us/a/img62/1879/p1000309s.jpg)
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: ratcityrex on November 29, 2012, 06:01:33 PM
Solid work!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on November 29, 2012, 06:09:32 PM
One thing I forgot, the engine sits slightly crooked. The driver's side is about 10mm lower at the mount bolt than needed to be completely level. I might just hog out the frame's holes since I'm anal about that shit. It will also put the driver's axle that much higher, which will put it closer inline with the halfshaft. It will also eliminate the need to pry the mount tubes inwards, since it will make the mount spacing wider too.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on November 29, 2012, 11:17:26 PM
I made 8 spacer tubes for the tranny plate figuring I'd use 4 per swap. Now it looks like I only need 2 per swap, so... ;)

I have tons of extra bolts and steel, so I should be able to make a couple of these if I needed to.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: PhilStubbs on November 29, 2012, 11:35:08 PM
I like the adaptor plate/scatter shield combo idea. I wonder if I can trade this H22 tranny for a N16 tranny. Lol
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on November 29, 2012, 11:39:32 PM
Scott, you'll love this link:

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2888176 (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2888176)
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: DSMR on November 30, 2012, 12:23:45 AM
Good work.

When I put a F22 in an EK I used ebay h22 swap mounts and was able to keep PS, AC, and the alternator cleared without modification (barely).

Once I get some cash together the car will receive an A series head with A6 valvetrain. Then we are going to bolt up a dsm turbo to it and get busy.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: PhilStubbs on November 30, 2012, 05:51:00 AM
That's funny. Too bad I have already finished the h22 tranny mount, mounted the shifter and run the cables.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on November 30, 2012, 09:35:50 AM
When I put a F22 in an EK I used ebay h22 swap mounts and was able to keep PS, AC, and the alternator cleared without modification (barely).

Straight H22 swap I presume? The only way PS will work is if the Integra it will go into has the frame rail further from the engine. I know you get more hood clearance with Integras and EK's, but I'll probably be using custom brackets to keep my A/C w/o doing custom lines.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: PhilStubbs on November 30, 2012, 10:42:38 AM
Did you get my PM about injectors?
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: turbohf on November 30, 2012, 10:58:08 AM
ummm, what up with hella flush in the background of the first pic? ::)



solid work. keep it up.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: PhilStubbs on November 30, 2012, 11:06:03 AM
The old game of "Broken or Hellaflush". I pretty much always answer broken. That's my answer in this case too.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: DSMR on November 30, 2012, 02:19:22 PM
When I put a F22 in an EK I used ebay h22 swap mounts and was able to keep PS, AC, and the alternator cleared without modification (barely).

Straight H22 swap I presume? The only way PS will work is if the Integra it will go into has the frame rail further from the engine. I know you get more hood clearance with Integras and EK's, but I'll probably be using custom brackets to keep my A/C w/o doing custom lines.

I put a F22B2 engine and tranny in the car. I used the cheap ebay mounts and drilled a hole for the drivers side mount. Used integra DA axles that I need to customize. Not sure about hood clearances for the integra but I can show you some pics if it would help you. Solid work btw.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on November 30, 2012, 11:00:00 PM
Sorry Scott, just reading it now.

I'm lovin the current F2B, I haven't modded the chassis so far and the exhaust just needs an extra 5" to be dead on. Axles are stock B's. I prefer cutting & welding brackets to cutting & welding the chassis.


ummm, what up with hella flush in the background of the first pic? ::)

Lol, the local word is "stanced". However it's the camera angle/lens, I assure you that has 3* camber max. The car only has eibach sportlines with zero camber correction atm. I do like how Civic/Tegs handle with a few degrees in the front and almost zero in the rear.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on November 30, 2012, 11:32:32 PM
Hoping someone can help me with mount measurements:

http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,22243.0.html (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,22243.0.html)
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: PhilStubbs on December 01, 2012, 09:02:00 AM
I responded.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on December 01, 2012, 10:53:30 PM
O K
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: highroller54 on December 01, 2012, 10:58:42 PM
reported for lack of new boobs.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on December 02, 2012, 12:50:11 AM
reported for lack of new boobs.


(http://pragmaticobotsunite.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Pot_Meet_Kettle.jpg)


Nigger
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on December 03, 2012, 10:40:44 AM
DO WORK!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: Phate on December 03, 2012, 10:59:37 AM
trying to talk my buddy into doing this to his EJ.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on December 05, 2012, 09:49:14 AM
Weather was nice, so I did some more stuff.


I enlarged the rear starter hole to 1/2" to use a 1/2"x6" grade-8 bolt to lock the block to the tranny. If not, it only fits a 3/8" bolt. The 1/2" bolt doubles the clamping load. It fits snug, so it acts like a giant alignment dowel to help hook it to the block.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img7/7218/p1000318st.jpg)
This also shows the 5/8" grade-8 bolts (and the taper tap, bottom right) I tapped threads for in the upper tranny holes. A normal 12mm bolt shows the difference in diameter.



I used an extension with a step drill to enlarge the starter hole, otherwise you'd need to use a special 3- or 4-flute core drill bit (casting hole reamer), $20 on ebay.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img141/1369/p1000333s.jpg)



Here's the location of the front hole you drill.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img221/7527/p1000323s.jpg)



The other side of the hole, where I ground it flat with a dremel and a cylindrical cutting bit.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img713/724/p1000328sa.jpg)



Another pic of it bolted back together with the 2 big 5/8" bolts. I'll have an angle iron bracket that ties together the 2 block bolts and the 2 tranny bolts.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img13/2559/p1000325sh.jpg)



Here's the "nub" on the F/H blocks that sticks into the tranny, file/grind/saw it off. It's between the 2 big bolts, slightly below.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img268/4166/p1000321s.jpg)



Next step is to yank it all out and make the upper tranny/block bracket, front bracket, and halfshaft bracket. Then I'll make a IACV relocator block, cut off the rear block hole for halfshaft clearance, and make the slave cylinder bracket. I have an extra D15 engine harness I'll also extend, then make a temp bracket to hold the del sol's PS pump.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: PhilStubbs on December 05, 2012, 12:00:28 PM
Just for shits and giggles, you might want to try an accord intermediate shaft. The splines are the same as B. then you can just run B axles the rest of the way.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on December 05, 2012, 12:10:06 PM
I like what im seeing!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on December 05, 2012, 04:17:27 PM
I'd have to fab a bracket for whatever halfshaft I use, and already have 2 spares for B-series. I would if I had one, since the bracket would be more compact.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: PhilStubbs on December 05, 2012, 04:55:50 PM
You might want to try to find one. I used a DA intermediate shaft and had to do a shit load of grinding to get the oil filter to fit. I had a 94+ intermediate shaft that bolted right up, but was the wrong male/female for the teg axle. I ended up making a bracket to use the DA shaft.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: Tim on December 05, 2012, 05:50:17 PM
I had a 94+ intermediate shaft that bolted right up, but was the wrong male/female for the teg axle.
Teg axles are male/male 90-93 and female/male 94+
Did u try the other years?
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on December 05, 2012, 06:22:09 PM
I did some looking, looks like the f22 accord and h22 prelude half-shafts are the same dimensionally, however the h22 is male and the f22 is female.

I don't think it will work since the b-trans has the half-shaft much closer to the block. It will have nothing to bolt to since it's center-line is dead even with the bottom of the block. The bolt holes are much closer to the shaft's center, so the bracket would be much difficult to do right. That also assumes they are the same length as integra half-shafts.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: PhilStubbs on December 05, 2012, 07:48:22 PM
I had a 94+ intermediate shaft that bolted right up, but was the wrong male/female for the teg axle.
Teg axles are male/male 90-93 and female/male 94+
Did u try the other years?

I honestly don't remember the situation. I'll have to look at the left over parts to see what is what. I think if I used a 90-93 accord shaft it would be a bolt in deal for me.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: jdmhatchracer94 on December 05, 2012, 11:32:46 PM
The h swap we did in eg was 90-93 accord int and 90-92 teg axles with accord inner joints. Just thinkin interms of length for the h2b
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on December 06, 2012, 06:15:37 PM
I GOT IT RUNNING TODAY!


Runs really rough, but then again it was an unmodified P06 map. I also had the iacv plugged/hanging off and the alternator plugged in but laying on the intake manifold. I'm also unsure about injectors, since I swapped out the 4 peak/hold injectors for 4 random saturated injectors. It's really nigger-rigged to the max - I just wanted to toss it together & test the engine before I pull it out again.

I used an older D15 harness from a firewall-MAP '92 DX. It really needed some TLC. I have to lengthen the thermo switch wires, swap the accord's long alternator wires onto it, then re-wrap it in all new split-loom and tape.

Then I'll toss on the original alternator and A/C pump so I can run the belt it came with. The final step (besides the brackets) will be to make a 6" exhaust extension to reach the cat. I'll just use clamps since the del sol is the temporary chassis.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: jdmhatchracer94 on December 07, 2012, 01:14:45 AM
Nice at least you know it runs now
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on December 07, 2012, 07:06:53 PM
Fuck yea!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: Tim on December 07, 2012, 07:26:08 PM
Good work. Take lots of pics when you pull it. I've wanted to do this for so long because of the stigma 'you can't do that' Fucking awesome.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on December 07, 2012, 11:20:53 PM
Well I really put my balls on the chopping block with the motors I've bought so far. I'm really glad it's all come together so far.

And don't worry, I want to make a japanese tourist blush when it comes to the picture taking. I'll definitely be doing this to two cars now, I'm really getting into it again. It's nice to not have much time and money into a build, to not care if it blows up in a week.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on December 07, 2012, 11:23:48 PM
I forgot to post in this thread what MAP sensors I plan to use. I was originally going to use my "stealth" diy units, but I've been saving these up. They came from omniman himself, read the engraving:



(http://imageshack.us/a/img179/8649/hiprofile24barmapkj6.jpg)
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: jdmhatchracer94 on December 07, 2012, 11:37:02 PM
Nice i would rock one
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on December 13, 2012, 06:41:49 PM
Today I got the car running much better today thanks to JD. I used a tuned map from him, rescaled for injector size, and put in stock F22 fuel values. I also wired an F22 distributor for internal coil so it bolts up to an obd1 Civic/Teg harness easily. It purrs like a lion since it's open header atm. Revs better than some stock cars I know of. ;DDD





Now it's write-up time. Two, actually.


First write-up: modifying a distributor from external coil to internal coil. Not just swapping distributors. In this case it will be 94 F22 distributor.

Parts required: External coil distributor, 18-20awg wire, small ring terminals, small spade terminals, obd1/obd2 Honda coil.

First open the distributor and find the ICM aka igniter. It will have the wires hanging off of it. In this picture the coil has already been installed from a B18B1. Nearly all 90's obd1/obd2 distributors use the same coil and bolt right in.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img17/8231/f22externalunwired1.jpg)

The orange arrow is the wire you'll be tapping into and wiring to the positive side of the coil. The green arrow is the connector you'll be wiring to the negative side of the coil. The positive terminal on the coil is closest to the ICM, the negative is the farthest.

Cut the green wire near the grommet that seals the wire as it exits the distributor. You can leave it in the connector or remove it. Pull the rest inside through the plastic sheath to the coil.

Put a ring terminal on that wire and connect it to the negative side of the coil. To clairify, you're wiring the green wire (on the ICM/igniter pin that's on the top nearest the coil) to the furthest terminal (negative) on the coil. In my case I borrowed the wire off of the B18B1 distributor and left the green wire hang (I put shrink wrap on it afterwards). I recommend shrink wrap on the ring terminal ends to prevent problems.

Last you'll tap into the black/yellow wire that's on the middle top terminal on the ICM/igniter. You'll run that lead to the nearest terminal on the coil (positive). I used some OEM wire from a harness, crimped it onto the ring terminal, then soldered it to the wire to keep it very secure.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img338/5672/f22externalwired1.jpg)

Toss on a P54 distributor cap (many OBD1/2 Accord/Civic/Integras) and you're done.





Second write-up: adding a tach/rpm wire to a JDM small-plug 8-wire distributor (H23A & F20B).

Parts required: JDM 8-wire distributor, 18-20awg wire, small spade terminal, obd1/obd2 Honda coil, 2-wire distributor clip (or whatever you plan on using if not obd1).

(http://imageshack.us/a/img109/5803/h23ainternalnotachunwir.jpg)

Locate the ICM aka igniter. On it there may be an output tab for the tach wire. It will be on the side by itself, nearest the coil - just above the orange arrow in the picture below. Crimp an insulated clip to a wire (preferably BLUE), clip it on it, then run it out of the distributor. I was able to drill through the rubber grommet using a drill bit ~25% larger than the wire, drilling at high speed with a slow feed rate. Put a screwdriver head or metal on the other side, since it will pull through fast and could cut a wire. In the picture I used a green wire from an F22 dizzy. Oddly enough, the blue wire is usually discolor to a green color inside the distributor.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img834/4687/h23ainternalnotachwired.jpg)

Now you'll have 9 wires coming out of the distributor. At this point you might want to run the blue wire through the plastic sheath that the other wires run through. Connect the rogue blue wire you just added to the blue wire on the 2-pin distributor wire (or whatever clip you're using). You now have a tach/rpm wire.

Once that's done, you'll want to depin the black/yellow wire on the 8-pin clip. It may have a different color rubber insulator than the other wires, and it will be in a corner hole. Cut the spade terminal off and solder it to the 2-wire clip's black/yellow wire. You're now done and ready to use a low-milage distributor.

Note: you may not have that extra side pin on the igniter. If this is the case, I've read that you can instead hook it to the negative side of the coil. I have not tried this, but that's how aftermarket tachs can be added to almost any car, so it should work. In my case I had the igniter tab, and got the tach to work on an OBD1 engine harness.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on December 13, 2012, 11:14:46 PM
Looking good, any bracket updates?
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on December 14, 2012, 12:19:24 AM
Not really, other than I have an assload of grade-8 bolts now.

Since I have the engine running and the wiring figured out, I'll be pulling the engine to fab the brackets. 3+ sets depending on how I feel.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on December 14, 2012, 10:35:10 AM
Not really, other than I have an assload of grade-8 bolts now.

Since I have the engine running and the wiring figured out, I'll be pulling the engine to fab the brackets. 3+ sets depending on how I feel.

Sweet dont forget mine :noel:
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on December 17, 2012, 12:01:48 PM
DO WORK!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on December 17, 2012, 06:36:31 PM
Thread jack time!

Think its worth going with s2000 pistons? I can get a set for about $30 with rings from a local. Only down side would be having to rebushing the rods and bore 1mm to 87, upside is a forged piston on the cheap.

Or Should I just go k20a2 rods/ pistons?

Power wise, over 500hp most likely.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: PhilStubbs on December 17, 2012, 07:29:09 PM
I wouldn't bore that much with 500+whp plans. I'm not super familiar with what stock F sleeves can handle, but it just seems like too much in my mind.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on December 17, 2012, 08:49:00 PM
I wouldn't bore that much with 500+whp plans. I'm not super familiar with what stock F sleeves can handle, but it just seems like too much in my mind.

Eyeball says there a fair amount thicker then stock D sleeves. Thinking big dirty power done even cheaper then a vitara motor :evil:

Best part about it, if it blows up I dont have much into it hahahaha
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: 92CXyD on December 17, 2012, 10:01:28 PM
I wouldn't bore that much with 500+whp plans. I'm not super familiar with what stock F sleeves can handle, but it just seems like too much in my mind.

Eyeball says there a fair amount thicker then stock D sleeves. Thinking big dirty power done even cheaper then a vitara motor :evil:

Best part about it, if it blows up I dont have much into it hahahaha

Curios to see how this turns out.  :noel:
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on December 17, 2012, 10:03:19 PM
I wouldn't bore that much with 500+whp plans. I'm not super familiar with what stock F sleeves can handle, but it just seems like too much in my mind.

Eyeball says there a fair amount thicker then stock D sleeves. Thinking big dirty power done even cheaper then a vitara motor :evil:

Best part about it, if it blows up I dont have much into it hahahaha

Curios to see how this turns out.  :noel:

I ask JD what he would rather see me bring down this year to Nc NE meet. Its either the dirty big boost F or a high Hp n/a dohc zc.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: PhilStubbs on December 17, 2012, 11:25:23 PM
I wouldn't bore that much with 500+whp plans. I'm not super familiar with what stock F sleeves can handle, but it just seems like too much in my mind.

Eyeball says there a fair amount thicker then stock D sleeves. Thinking big dirty power done even cheaper then a vitara motor :evil:

Best part about it, if it blows up I dont have much into it hahahaha

Judging by the f23 I have torn apart, the cylinders look just as thick as D's. I have the f23, LS, and D torn apart. If I get time I'll measure them.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on December 18, 2012, 12:25:57 AM
The s2k pistons may take a lot, but they've got 3 things going against them. A) made for FRM liners, B) much stronger than a 1mm-thinner-than-stock sleeve, C) very large dome. The first point may not even get you past the green light.

I think K20 pistons/rods are a better idea. You'd have to flip the pistons around just like the k20 pistons. The s2k pistons with K20 rods will yield ~9.5-9.3:1 while the K20A3 pistons/rods get ~9.3:1 on an F23. I think K20 pistons with 86mm bores will be stronger than F20C pistons with 1mm less sleeve. Less work as well.


Then you'd only need the f23 sleeves honed straight to a .0015-20" clearance, set the ring gap accordingly, and go to town. People take the F-series bottom ends to 350+ with high mileage & stock ring gaps, so with stronger pistons built for boosting...
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on December 18, 2012, 10:30:28 AM
The s2k pistons may take a lot, but they've got 3 things going against them. A) made for FRM liners, B) much stronger than a 1mm-thinner-than-stock sleeve, C) very large dome. The first point may not even get you past the green light.

I think K20 pistons/rods are a better idea. You'd have to flip the pistons around just like the k20 pistons. The s2k pistons with K20 rods will yield ~9.5-9.3:1 while the K20A3 pistons/rods get ~9.3:1 on an F23. I think K20 pistons with 86mm bores will be stronger than F20C pistons with 1mm less sleeve. Less work as well.


Then you'd only need the f23 sleeves honed straight to a .0015-20" clearance, set the ring gap accordingly, and go to town. People take the F-series bottom ends to 350+ with high mileage & stock ring gaps, so with stronger pistons built for boosting...

Ah yes I see what you mean, I thought 1mm maybe to much considering I will most likely push it really hard :evil:

I can get e85 really easy so I think I may just stick with the original idea of k20a2 rods and pistons and shoot for more compression.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on December 24, 2012, 02:09:50 AM
Big turbo and low boost. The car will be much lighter than an F23 is used to moving, geared better, and will still spool much faster than a B18 would.



Back on track, I got the TPS fixed today but this F22 uses a 56mm TB. I've decided to do a Delta 272 cam so I'll probably go to 60mm. I also got the harness pulled apart and the alternator wire in. Tomorrow I'll be soldering on a few pigtails from the spare f22, f23, and h23a harnesses rather than just extending the plugs. Then I'll wrap it up and have a nice EG/DC harness that will work with an obd1 vtec & IAB H/F-series motor. No pics til x-mas since my girl took my camera 5hrs north to her mom's place.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: PhilStubbs on December 24, 2012, 07:43:26 AM
Your girl aka that roommate you got a while back? Lol
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on December 24, 2012, 12:29:10 PM
Hows the brackets coming?
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: Gold DA9 on December 26, 2012, 03:49:13 AM
Your girl aka that roommate you got a while back? Lol

lol... thats what i was thinking...
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on December 27, 2012, 05:41:06 AM
I think I said that wrong. She went up north for xmas, and is already back.

I want to pull the engine today, which requires removing 2" of ice. Next get the rear t-bracket & front bracket finished, the top trans bracket started, then do naughty things to said roommate. Most likely I'll be lazy and only do the 1st and last things on my list...
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on December 27, 2012, 04:53:55 PM
I think I said that wrong. She went up north for xmas, and is already back.

I want to pull the engine today, which requires removing 2" of ice. Next get the rear t-bracket & front bracket finished, the top trans bracket started, then do naughty things to said roommate. Most likely I'll be lazy and only do the 1st and last things on my list...

Best part about having a lot of rhmt nig nog numbers is the ability to text "DO WORK" at will :evil:
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on January 09, 2013, 01:59:16 AM
Harness is done besides getting the split-loom taped up.

I also got the fuel rail figured out on the H23A. I used an F22A fuel rail, F22/H22 rail studs (2 since they didn't drill for the middle stud), F22/H22 rail spacers, and a 2mm thick washer to fit over the 7.5mm OD of the rail studs. The JDM rail has the banjo inlet on the wrong side, the injectors are 9.5mm shorter than typical USDM, the rail studs are much shorter, and the rail spacers are also shorter. If I didn't have spare rail studs, I'd just take a m6x1 threaded rod and cut each end for the studs. The fat H22 studs are >$5 from online dealers.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on January 09, 2013, 12:44:19 PM
Oh yea! I cant wait to see some dirty 3rds!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on January 10, 2013, 02:17:23 AM
I worked a bit on the H23A fuel rail. It uses 10mm shorter injectors, I think similar to AP1 injectors. The rail also only connects to two studs on the manifold, which are very short.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img189/7883/h23afuelrail1.jpg)


I removed the 2 short rail studs, put on 2 normal length H22 studs, used two H22 rail spacers (I did a couple in aluminum), and a 1/4" washer under each spacer. This allows a USDM fuel rail to bolt up, in this case an F22A rail with the inlet on the passenger side. The nuts are hand tight, so the injectors will be very snug when torqued down.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img20/3999/h23afuelrail2.jpg)
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: mycarslow on February 05, 2013, 02:23:48 PM
anything new going on with this ?
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on February 06, 2013, 03:46:39 AM
Only thing to report is I ground the f22a6's crank for the b-series pilot bearing last time it went above 32F.

I'll be modding the B16 trans as well so I don't have to pull the other f22 & trans out of the car. It has snowed almost every day for the last week, so that should help things along. I also bought a 16g6 turbo with 300 miles on it for $175.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on February 09, 2013, 03:52:59 AM
Okay, got some more work done. I modded the b16 trans so I can build brackets inside my garage. I also took pics of the grinding needed on the crankshaft to run a pilot bearing.



The b-series pilot bearing sticks out ~1.8mm, and is 32mm wide. I ground it a bit wider and deeper, 33mm & 2mm. I used a rotozip and a vermont-american grinding stone with the shank cut down. Dremel brand worn down fast and rounded off. I tested the fit by pushing the bearing out an 1/8", then bolting up to see what clearance is left in the flywheel hole. You could also use clay.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img23/3843/h2bcrankshaftbearing.jpg)



I marked the material that needs to be removed on the block for the halfshaft clearance. To make it easy I went with 3 easy to find locations. I'll cut straight up past the bolt's flange, across above the flange, then from the trans mating surface to the other cuts' intersection. The larger circle is the dust shield's diameter, the smaller is the halfshaft w/o it.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img26/7089/h2bhalfshaftmaterialrem.jpg)



Lastly I snapped a pic of the front underside of the block. You can see the bolt location, I might make a thick bracket that ties that into the front mount holes. That way I don't have to grind nor have a bolt head half on the block. I'm also going to make a brace similar to the stock B angle brace. It will use the tranny's larger hole pictured, and the two holes on the block next to the pan. My h23a has them already threaded, the F22's need them drilled & tapped.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img209/1900/h2bfrontbraceboltlocati.jpg)
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on February 09, 2013, 01:27:45 PM
Do work! IM still waiting, but thinking I might do a h trans because I can get one for free :Jew:
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on February 20, 2013, 10:23:21 AM
More work done. I have the top motor-trans bracket bent and planned out, I also have the halfshaft plate planned out. First I'll test-fit with a chunk of MDF, then go with 1/4" plate steel. Below shows where you have to grind & cut the block for the halfshaft.


(http://imageshack.us/a/img209/6548/h2bhalfshaft1.jpg)

(http://imageshack.us/a/img853/9896/h2bhalfshaft2.jpg)

(http://imageshack.us/a/img716/9600/h2bhalfshaft3.jpg)
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on February 20, 2013, 12:07:53 PM
Progress is always good! I think my plans are changing, got a free H trans, clutch, and flywheel; I just hope the hood closes....
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on February 20, 2013, 02:43:10 PM
I think full H/F swaps do fit since they lean the motor back and move it forwards. It's just the axle angle sucks, and the mixing of axles to get it working. In an EF this H2B will practically touch the firewall, and is 1/4" from an EG's prop valve. I really want a setup I can move from chassis to chassis easy, since I don't want to keep the del sol or integra that long. A full H swap won't do since you weld in the shifter box.

I should be able to manage with a 1/4"x3"x10" plate and shims to get the halfshaft perfectly lined up. I probably didn't have to grind the halfshaft, but did anyways. One thing is it MUST be a manual HS, auto won't have the right clearances.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on February 21, 2013, 01:32:36 PM
I think full H/F swaps do fit since they lean the motor back and move it forwards. It's just the axle angle sucks, and the mixing of axles to get it working. In an EF this H2B will practically touch the firewall, and is 1/4" from an EG's prop valve. I really want a setup I can move from chassis to chassis easy, since I don't want to keep the del sol or integra that long. A full H swap won't do since you weld in the shifter box.

I should be able to manage with a 1/4"x3"x10" plate and shims to get the halfshaft perfectly lined up. I probably didn't have to grind the halfshaft, but did anyways. One thing is it MUST be a manual HS, auto won't have the right clearances.

I would much rather do what your doing since you can always upgrade axles to k-series axles with out to much work.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on February 21, 2013, 03:37:36 PM
Damn, never heard about that upgrade. Looks like a great low-buck axle swap! I'm putting the karcepts link for future reference, along with a hater-tack link.

http://www.karcepts.com/shop/product.php?id_product=53 (http://www.karcepts.com/shop/product.php?id_product=53)
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3097190 (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3097190)
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on February 21, 2013, 05:58:19 PM
Looks like a 3/8"x3"x9" chunk of metal works perfectly for the halfshaft bracket. It might require the block ground down for the bolt that will go in the halfshaft's upper hole. If you use steel, you could just weld the bolt from behind and grind down the head. I have 1/4 steel plate in hand, so I might try it with that and 3mm thick washers between the block.

You'd also have to cut the ear off the halfshaft that points to the tranny if you plan on using the stock oil sender on any H-block. It's not needed if you run an oil pressure gauge, it only connects to the cluster light. F-blocks seem to have a plug in the hole and have it located above the filter like a D/B block.


Regardless, it looks like this might be a more solid/rigid mount than normal H2B kits. Also FAR less grinding. H2D kits also cut & grind a shitload off the corner mount spot vs this method. Enough remains via this method to revert this block by welding the block's corner hole back on.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on February 21, 2013, 08:04:05 PM
You can use 91 prelude hubs 36mm hubs on the dirty cheap!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on February 25, 2013, 11:33:31 PM
It was warm yesterday (38F), so I got a bit more done.




I had 1/4" MDF left over from another project, and it turned out to be perfect for mock-up of the brackets. The side trans/engine bracket will be 3/16"x1.25" steel bar and 1/2" ID steel tubes (engine bolts).

(http://imageshack.us/a/img132/940/h2bbracketsmdf1.jpg)


The rear bracket will be a .375" thick 3"x9" aluminum plate. You have to remove some block material behind the halfshaft's upper bolt, 1/8" at most, for the bolt head. 1.5"x7/16" bolts will be best for the HS (3/8" shown), and 35mm long M10x1.25 bolts for the 3 block holes.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img404/6164/h2bbracketsmdf2.jpg)


Another angle showing both brackets:

(http://imageshack.us/a/img580/4390/h2bbracketsmdf3.jpg)



The front bracket, something I've never seen on any other no-kit H2b, will be 1.5"x1/8" angle iron. I'd love 1.25x1/4" for strength, but *anything* here is above and beyond what has worked for other people. IIRC the F22 has an untapped hole at 119mm from the trans and an undrilled hole at 75mm. The H23A has 2 tapped holes, one at 74mm out and the other at 103mm. I'm holding up the angle iron in place of MDF in the pic.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img850/3672/h2bbracketsmdf4.jpg)



All that's left is to cut, drill, and weld some steel & aluminum. The rear t-bracket is very minor, I only have to cut the ears off and weld some plate steel on. I'm hoping if I drill holes for a B and H2B swap, it can be used for either engines.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on February 26, 2013, 10:07:44 AM
IM liking the progress!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on March 06, 2013, 07:02:25 PM
Halfshaft work is done! Compared to the normal H2B method (and especially H2D), there is far less grinding on the rear.



Previously I showed how the block has to be cut to accept the halfshaft. Today I fitted a junk axle and clearanced the block, as well as finished the bracket. It is 3/8" thick and 3"x10". The holes were all drilled 7/16" & 3/8"x1.5" bolts to hold the halfshaft on the bracket. This allowed enough play to get it on, as well as shift it up or down to eliminate binding.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img713/75/h2bhalfshaftbracketfina.jpg)

You'll want to find the middle of movement and secure it, next turn it to check for binding, then torque it all down. Binding shows when it gets harder to turn at a certain spot, in my case spinning the whole diff for a 1/4 turn (non-LSD).



The next 4 pics show roughly where & how deep you need to grind. You have to cut into the oil pan enough to just take the lip off. Unlike the kits, you don't have to compromise any of the fasteners on the oil pan. The cup clears quite a bit, but all this is for the boot. In the right side was cut a little deeper to make sure a thick boot clamp won't rub.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img713/1345/h2bhalfshaftbracketfinao.jpg)

(http://imageshack.us/a/img801/75/h2bhalfshaftbracketfina.jpg)

(http://imageshack.us/a/img13/75/h2bhalfshaftbracketfina.jpg)

(http://imageshack.us/a/img560/75/h2bhalfshaftbracketfina.jpg)

One thing not shown is where the bracket must be notched behind the HS carrier/bearing. Its a 3/8" triagular notch and easy enough to figure out.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on March 06, 2013, 11:41:45 PM
THe weather was SO nice here (40F...) I decided to get the trans bracket done too. I was really rushing so it's not perfect, but really easy to make. I'll probably make some thin welds on the outside so it doesn't stay looking like it was only tacked together. I'll be duplicating these at least once, so I consider this more a prototype.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img266/9132/h2btransbracket1.jpg)

(http://imageshack.us/a/img823/3120/h2btransbracket2.jpg)

It's all 3/16" steel, mig welded. I only have to grind a tad under the gold bolt on the left, since the weld touches the trans hole's edge.

The main forces working on this are the bolts pulling on each respective plate, but also trying to bend the engine bolts. They pass through 45mm of nothing before the block's threads. In response I added the two tubes and welded them to the top plate to prevent movement from sheering forces. I've seen people use nothing, and others use a fat stack of washers. The other problem - the only thing preventing the block & trans from splitting apart is the metal between the bolts. Boxing it as such eliminates that possibility.

The gold bolts are 1/2"x3" grade 8. The H22 blocks will need the lower webbing cut a bit to fit the rear bolt behind the trans hole. H & F's will both need enlarging of the timing hole above the block stamp. A few seconds with a saw in each spot is all that is needed, pics of that will be next. If it's cold as f*** out, I'll put up pics of the harness first.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on March 07, 2013, 01:56:04 PM
You make it look soooo simple!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: 92CXyD on March 07, 2013, 02:19:29 PM
You make it look soooo simple!

Yeap  :noel:
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: PhilStubbs on March 10, 2013, 11:46:22 AM
I just wrapped up an H2B in an ek hatch. I'm so glad it's done, I can clean the shop and get back on my F23 crx that this thread motivates to do. Lol
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on March 10, 2013, 12:34:01 PM
I just wrapped up an H2B in an ek hatch. I'm so glad it's done, I can clean the shop and get back on my F23 crx that this thread motivates to do. Lol

DO WORK!

I still got to take apart my f23 and get that going as well.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on March 10, 2013, 04:45:24 PM
I got the f22b1 in the del sol pulled out to give it the full treatment. After that it'll go back in for a final shakedown, and I'm hoping to get it running in the Integra by April. It will be dependant on the weather, but either way I'll be driving an F2B swap month.

I also got the front of the block ground away for the slave cylinder. I was going to try welding the rear t-bracket, but my b16 tranny's lowest 14mm bolt hole is messed up. I already have a m14x1.5 tap on the way - I only have an m14x1.25 for the pass side tranny bracket holes.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on March 10, 2013, 09:23:24 PM
I spent a bit more time modding the block I just pulled out and also took pics of the slave cylinder mounting.

It took just under 2hr to grind, drill, and cut all the spots on that motor including the slave cylinder spot. I'll be making a template for the slave cylinder and rear bracket eventually for people to print out and outline themselves. All you need is a sawzall or hacksaw, a drill with 1/2" bit (1/4" or 1/8" help for the slave cyl cuts), and a grinder of some sort.



The slave actually fits really nice; it doesn't cut into anything that's needed. There won't be any shifting issues since it uses the stock location & angle.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img585/5794/h2bslavecylinder1.jpg)

(http://imageshack.us/a/img339/6460/h2bslavecylinder2.jpg)




I also took a picture of the last spot to cut, above the block code stamp. On blocks with the timing window, you'll just extend it to the stamp's flat area. The f22b1 doesn't have a window, so I just cut a minimal amount. I'll be enlarging it so I can get a box wrench on the bolt head, in this case I threw a weld blob to stop it from spinning. I did the same thing with the other hole in the top bracket, since it's nice to leave it loose until after bolting the block holes.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img203/1588/h2bslavecylinder3.jpg)
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on March 11, 2013, 09:34:55 AM
Maybe a dumb question but does the crank pulley have any timing marks on it?
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on March 11, 2013, 10:23:30 AM
The f22b1 crank pulley does, so does the f23 pully I have. The h23a and f22a6 do not, so I'll have to transfer the marks or use the crank pulleys. It will be easy enough to find TDC on the motors and create a timing mark on the timing covers.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on March 11, 2013, 11:37:43 AM
The f22b1 crank pulley does, so does the f23 pully I have. The h23a and f22a6 do not, so I'll have to transfer the marks or use the crank pulleys. It will be easy enough to find TDC on the motors and create a timing mark on the timing covers.

Ahh, thanks I hadnt look at my f23 crank pulley in a few months.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on March 14, 2013, 12:45:07 AM
Bad news - I sold everything and bought a Prius. Fuck you. :noel:
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: 92CXyD on March 14, 2013, 07:59:11 AM
Bad news - I sold everything and bought a Prius. Fuck you. :noel:

Yeah right  :?:
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: Tim on March 14, 2013, 08:46:13 AM
About fucking time. You tell your mom you're out of the closet yet?
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: 92CXyD on March 14, 2013, 09:06:34 AM
About fucking time. You tell your mom you're out of the closet yet?

Reminds me of this:

http://youtu.be/KiPyMciRWQQ (http://youtu.be/KiPyMciRWQQ)



Thank JD for this,  FUCK You  :noel:
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on April 02, 2013, 09:38:06 AM
List of things left:

*Finish IACV work - block-off plate and relocator flange (only needed because I'm starting with the F22B2)

*Weld & drill rear T-bracket (cuts already made)

*Pound the frame edge in 1-2mm (there's a chance for rubbing with these sloppy motor mounts)

*Finish the harness & post up what wires to modify


I wish I could work on this, but I've had my business taking my time & I have to go up north this weekend. I also have my EJ that's getting a new front end & paint.

The F22 *will* make it into my DD Integra this month, and the H23A will replace it before June. I will also be sending in cores to Delta next week, one will be for a F22 272...
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on April 02, 2013, 11:16:50 AM
Pass on the delta cams go colt!

Had a delta cam go flat on a motor I built for a friend. Tons of zinc in the oil, valves last to delta recommendation. Bent some valves/ killed some guides......
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on April 02, 2013, 08:15:27 PM
For the extra $200, I'll pass. It's just an F22B2, and anyone can have a cam go bad be it a regrind or billet. John said the only cams that really have issues are vtec heads where the cam lobes are too narrow. King down the road says Skank2 Pro 1 & 2's have the same issues w/o half a bottle of zinc added per oil change.



I'm debating if I should switch from the 55mm TB to 60mm. With the 272 it could be worth a few ponies.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: PhilStubbs on April 03, 2013, 09:50:46 AM
I have a delta 272-2 in the GRM car. Been in there for 3 years with no issues.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on April 12, 2013, 12:55:49 AM
I got the last major chunks of work done...finally! It's been raining non-stop for almost a week, and hasn't moved out of the 30's that entire time. It's not that easy when the garage is unheated.



First I worked on getting the IACV relocated on the F22B2. It will be in the way of the firewall brake lines, and this was much easier than doing a brake line tuck.

This shows the 64mm LS TB I bored years ago, along with the IACV plate below it near the thermostat. Once I get the Delta 272 cam, I'll be putting a 60mm TB on it & port-matching the upper plenum. The 64mm TB will end up on the H23A or the built F22A.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img41/7727/h2biacvrelocation01.jpg)


This shows the plugged IACV holes, and the locations for in & out on the manifold. I'll be running 3/8" vac line behind & below the manifold, or on the other side if I don't put 90* elbows under the IACV nipples.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img203/904/h2biacvrelocation02.jpg)



The biggest bump in the road was modding the rear T-brace. DONE! I put a shim in it while welding so I can later fit it over a B-series block again, of course after adding a 2nd set of holes. For some reason the F/H tab is 1mm narrower. I used 3/16"x1.25" bar like on the trans/block bracket with a 9/16" hole.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img855/5527/h2breartbrace01.jpg)

(http://imageshack.us/a/img21/5802/h2breartbrace02.jpg)



Now all that's left is taking pics of the harness & fitting it into the del sol again. I'll have to fab a 6" exhaust section behind the header, route the vac & coolant lines, then take it for a rip.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on April 12, 2013, 09:48:52 AM
Oh yea get that bitch running already!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: ratcityrex on April 12, 2013, 12:39:22 PM
very informative thread. I know its hard as fuck to do step by step shit and take pics of everything and then do a write up about it. Good job mang!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on April 25, 2013, 06:23:46 PM
After 2 weeks of rain, hail, sleet, and snow (wet nearly every day!) I finally got the F22 back into the del sol. Nothing to really see, looks like the first time it was in. I got the frame rail pounded in a 1/4" in case I make a bracket for the Civic 3-bolt driver's mount. Now there's almost 1/2" next to the pulley. The modded t-bracket and upper trans/block brace both do their job.


To make sure the tranny was lined up properly, I tipped the engine onto the driver's side (on a 3/4" thick anti-fatigue rubber mat), loosened the trans, twisted it on the motor a bit, then tightened it all back down. The only issue I can see is the PP clamping the clutch disc didn't let the input shaft line up to the pilot bearing. I made sure the ISB and pilot bearings had zero play, and also made sure the clutch alignment tool was dead-center.


I've got some prothane inserts coming soon, so I'll be using the rear & pass side with a pass side torque mount insert from Energy Suspension. Then it's just a matter of tossing the harness back in, connecting fuel/vac/coolant hoses, and bolting the axles/knuckles back on. That will let me get the Integra's ITR rear sway & 60mm exhaust on, and if all goes well - the H23A dohc vtec motor too.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on April 25, 2013, 06:35:01 PM
Oh yea do work!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on April 28, 2013, 04:55:35 PM
The weather finally broke into the 70's on a day off, so I finished the wiring outside.


Here are the changes I made to a 92-95 OBD1 Civic harness:

Alternator: 30" total, 18" added, moved to where the injectors branch off
Oil Sender: 11" total, 7" added (either swap your H22 to a plug-type or use a ring terminal)
IAT: 8" total, separated from Purge
Purge Solenoid (for IAB control): 6" total, 6" removed, separated from IAT
MAP/TPS: 17"/11" total, move to VSS spot on main loom
IACV: 11" " total, move to VSS spot on main loom, separate from MAP/TPS
Thermoswitch: 7" total, separate from GROUND wire
VTEC: 7" total, separate from Distributor wires 4" back; Pressure Switch ends up with 6", Solenoid ends up with 7"
O2 sensor: 12" total, separate from the Distributor cluster, move to the main loom (extend 4-8" to be fully compatible)
Injectors: partially separate #1 & #2 from each other (about 1-2") to route under the rail

I started with a 92 D15 wire harness, so I had to add the VTEC Solenoid wire and the MAP wires. I will be running eCtune so I'll be disabling the VTEC Pressure Solenoid and running the IAB Solenoid via the Purge wires. This way I only have to add a single wire on the chassis harness on my Integra LS.


obd1 Civic & Integra H22 swap harness all taped up:

(http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/9963/civicintegraobd1h22aswa.jpg)


H22 swap harness vs obd1 Civic EX sohc vtec harness:

(http://imageshack.us/a/img35/361/civicobd1harnessvsh22sw.jpg)


My workspace with plenty of light (I got hooked on dog treats back in 'nam lol):

(http://imageshack.us/a/img593/1825/worktableh22harness.jpg)



My Prothane inserts also arrived, just in time too. I got a full set plus an extra side trans insert. I need enough for 2 car's worth, and already have the Energy Suspension rear/torque insert kit. I'm not 100% sure what I want to do with the driver's side, but at least one will have the modified Prothane kit. I plan on drilling most of the center puck's material out, and possibly some of the material from the 2 outer pucks. It won't be a race car, but I'll definitely need to keep the motor from rocking. The F22B2 manifold & IAT are only ~1" from the brake prop valve & lines.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img195/1125/integracivicprothanemou.jpg)
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on April 29, 2013, 09:02:26 PM
I got the rear & side inserts installed, but the rear was a PAIN to get in. In the end I had to modify it since it was just too thick on the bottom tabs to fit. The red arrows point to the areas I ground off. I just stuck both on the bench grinder and went to town.

(http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1125/integracivicprothanemou.jpg)






I was checking into the Speedfactory D2B kit, and found it VERY interesting: http://www.speedfactoryracing.net/store/# (http://www.speedfactoryracing.net/store/#)!/~/product/category=472454&id=2975787

Quote from: Speedfactory
designed and tested in our 9 second D16 racecar ... The use of the factory dowel pins is no longer retained

They use the block/trans braces to line up the crank & input shaft. Given they've used it on their 9-sec car (one block actually split in half from the power), I presume a plateless solution for the H2B now has a bit more validity.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on May 05, 2013, 04:58:49 PM
IT RUNS!! (edit: check a few posts below for the "fixed" video)


(open header)

http://youtu.be/qAJWj3vTIVA (http://youtu.be/qAJWj3vTIVA)



http://youtu.be/Hxa5ZXcgFF4 (http://youtu.be/Hxa5ZXcgFF4)



I just need a 37" alternator belt and some exhaust clamps.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on May 05, 2013, 09:49:11 PM
Anyways I got the exhaust sealed up and a 37.3" belt on the alternator (no AC or PS). Either it has a weak cylinder, badly needs a lifter adjustment, or the injectors are in various states of being clogged. It really lopes at idle, and I doubt it has an upgraded camshaft.

Regardless there are no codes, the radiator fan comes on, and revs nice. I *will* be driving it this week.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: Phate on May 06, 2013, 12:51:29 AM
Anyways I got the exhaust sealed up and a 37.3" belt on the alternator (no AC or PS). Either it has a weak cylinder, badly needs a lifter adjustment, or the injectors are in various states of being clogged. It really lopes at idle, and I doubt it has an upgraded camshaft.

Regardless there are no codes, the radiator fan comes on, and revs nice. I *will* be driving it this week.

Mine loped like fuck at idle when it was open header.  Bone stock.  Mine probably was an issue with the O2 sensors being generally unhappy about the whole experience if I had to guess.  Sounded a bit smoother than that though.

I actually really liked how it sounded at idle open header.  The displacement gave it a nice rumble.  Sounded like ass everywhere else though.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on May 06, 2013, 09:03:55 AM
I got the exhaust hooked up and it still lopes pretty bad, and it isn't pulling much vacuum at idle. The idle screw is full-out and it still dies w/o the IACV. I doubt it came with a 282 cam in it, but I can hope. I'm guessing a bad cylinder due to ancient platinum plugs that sat in oil for 1-2 years or it badly needs a valve adjustment. I'll be doing further tests today once I swap the starter. This starter rarely works even if you bang it with a hammer.

I ended up using a 5040373 belt on the alternator, 37.3" long. A 37.7" belt may have been easier to get on, and only 4 ribs are needed since it's driving a single accessory. :Jew:
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on May 06, 2013, 12:10:07 PM
Oh yea!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: Minor Threat on May 06, 2013, 12:52:49 PM
Mechanical timing is good?
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: 92CXyD on May 06, 2013, 01:40:09 PM
Mechanical timing is good?
heard a similar issue on an accord I was working on and it was a pulled injector wiring harness wire near the injector.  :noel:
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on May 07, 2013, 01:02:27 AM
I hate to say it, but I'm presuming mech timing is good. DasPoop sold this motor for his friend because the trans died. I tried pulling the plug wires off and #1 & #2 removed makes no difference, which makes sense with the heavy loping sound. I'll try my 370cc injectors after the compression test.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on May 09, 2013, 01:24:33 PM
FIXED!


Turns out having the EGR connected to vacuum with a non-EGR ecu sucks it open. The problem was compounded by the EGR system likely being clogged.

H2B F2B F22 Civic Del Sol - running 100% (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQWsb5ZWOpA#ws)


All that's left is to grind a hair more by the driver's axle since this axle has much larger clamps on the boot. I just got a cheap-ass ebay header ($60 shipped) I plan to add too.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on May 09, 2013, 10:45:02 PM
Do work, btw I still want a set of those home made brackets!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on May 15, 2013, 10:08:49 AM
+$250: LS trans, clutch, linkage, axles
+$200: F22B2 w/harness & auto trans
+$10: plate for halfshaft & IACV
+$20: bits & bolts & steel
+$10: intake hose & fittings (IACV)
_____________________________
$490 for >130lb/ft of torque at the wheels.
$1290 for >170whp if you get an F20B shipped from HMO instead.
$1690 for >200whp if you get an H23A vtec shipped from HMO & ebay bolt-ons.



I'm also getting my brother's GoPro cam soon to get some hi-def rippers. I'll also try to get some showing my LS Teg up against this F22 del slow.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on May 16, 2013, 09:46:02 AM
Rippers FTW!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on May 26, 2013, 11:54:58 AM
Today was nice out and I had the day off, so I figured I'd toss on the $60 header. It fits up to the stock cat well, besides pushing it back about 1". I will forgo tuning for the header until the Delta 272 is installed.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img707/4224/f22header01.jpg)


It hangs down a little, but so does any header.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img580/9981/f22header02.jpg)


It's about as low as the bolts for the front sway bar. It will have a little more clearance when I make a driver's motor bracket for the Civic driver's mount, that will pull that side of the motor up an inch.

(http://imageshack.us/a/img18/9425/f22header03.jpg)



BTW I took some measurements, and the F22 head gives you an EXTRA 1" of clearance between the exhaust flange and the core support VS a d16z6!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: Phate on May 26, 2013, 11:24:10 PM
BTW I took some measurements, and the F22 head gives you an EXTRA 1" of clearance between the exhaust flange and the core support VS a d16z6!

Is that because the F22 is tilted back in the engine bay vs the D series?
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on June 08, 2013, 12:36:22 AM
Yeah, the  F/H blocks sit tilted back. This H2B method keeps it tilted almost as much as they do in a Prelude/Accord. D/B blocks tilt forward.




Speaking of tilted back... a SECOND H2B for me! (H23A Integra)

(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/6383/h23ah2bintegra.jpg)


Still lots to do before tomorrow, and then a lot after that. I have 13hrs into it today, and I expect another 5-6hr before it's road-ready.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on June 08, 2013, 10:01:01 PM
Fuck yea! I still want. Set of those brackets!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: Joseph Davis on June 16, 2013, 07:23:11 PM
Worst thread on the site.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on June 17, 2013, 01:04:38 PM
Worst thread on the site.

With the worst post on the site.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on February 18, 2014, 01:22:34 PM
Any updates?
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on February 25, 2014, 09:09:50 PM
Only update is the F22B fuel rail is already fitted to the K20 IM, I'm just waiting on a buddy to find OBD2 throttle body cores...when the weather lets him into his shed. Unless someone wants to donate 1-2 OBD2 throttle bodies (60mm) that don't have FITV ports. They can be completely bare, preferably one with a GSR pulley.

When the weather breaks I'll bleed the brakes, weld up the test pipe, then install the K20 IM & harness. I might even get ballsy and try 5psi on a smaller t3/t4. I plan to get rid of the teg & move the H2B swap to my 95 Civic EX.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: Rioreded6 on February 25, 2014, 11:07:59 PM
Unless someone wants to donate 1-2 OBD2 throttle bodies (60mm) that don't have FITV ports.

Damn I just threw one away two weeks ago, and I'm always willing to hook a nigga up.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: crxvtec91 on July 09, 2014, 02:16:49 PM
Sticky ftw!
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on July 10, 2014, 05:14:45 PM
I almost forgot about this thread. Right now the F22 Del Sol is in retirement since the task of prototyping worked out. My H23A Integra thread has more info in it & is a bit more condensed. I do plan to put this swap (or something similar with an F22A head & F23 block) into my 95 Civic very soon. I'd use the 272 cam and K20A2 intake manifold if possible. I'd like to use the F23A head, but I'm missing part of the vtec solenoid & doesn't accept the K20A IM.
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: danz on July 12, 2014, 12:25:47 PM
Maybe try a good cam?  That would probably work better.  :P
Title: Re: F2B & H2B nonsense build thread (LOTS of pictures & nsfw)
Post by: HiProfile on July 23, 2014, 04:50:17 PM
I already have the cam. I don't have any racecars atm, so no need for any balls-deep parts ATM.