:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: maleek on February 06, 2013, 12:45:42 PM
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I'm looking to build a fun cheap street setup that has good useable power! I had a ching chong turbo but it's time to ditch it. Anybody here with a STOCK b18a/b, run a holset unit (either a hy35, or h1c) that can shed some light on their experience? I'm looking to make around ~300whp, and have a decent power band for street uses. Also, was anybody able to keep their ac/ps? I know holset units are known for being notoriously large.
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Hy35 :noel:
Are ya going to post a build tread and have you read the Noob of the year thread yet?
We have a tradition, so please follow, especially today. (it is Wednesday)
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Post porn, or kill yourself! Then I will feed you all the info you want.
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There is more holset info here than probably any other site. Follow the rules and be rewarded. I just tuned a car with one of those turbos.
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H1cC generally all have too large a turbine housing to be much fun for a street car. HY35 would be good on a stock LS motor for sure. HX35 would be ideal.
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H1cC generally all have too large a turbine housing to be much fun for a street car. HY35 would be good on a stock LS motor for sure. HX35 would be ideal.
What he said, HX35... be aware they are heavy turbos though. The HX35 I had weighted nearly 3x as much as the 60-1 I replaced it with.
Also, welcome and go fuck yourself.
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi46.tinypic.com%2Ffwq0sw.jpg&hash=1879b896f94c79bb62bfd31bd3df024a0e126600)
Wasn't aware i had to post porn. my apologies.
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Good start, need more now....
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The hy35 makes a great street car turbo. I just tuned a b16 with one. The spool with a log manifold was awesome and the power was intense. Probably the fastest b16 I have ever tuned.
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi50.tinypic.com%2F1zf08qq.jpg&hash=877581ae9b80648cf159eaaa52d4f39bec5a7a51)
I heard it is a popular choice with the b16 motors. but because im using a non vtec head, i'm losing alot of flow capabilities. Like i said, i'd hate to start spooling this turbo at 5500, and only be able to rev my motor to 7k!
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Jeff, (jdmhatchracer94) did a ls with 8.0:1 compression pistons, delta 272/260 cams stock head I believe with a holset h1c, 12cm housing, and made 337whp and like 290tq. If I were you I would defiantly run the hy35. If you want a quick spool. It will carry your power to 7k easy. Once you get up in the power level(+350whp) it will start to level off on power. Assuming the motor is stock. What car is this in? I will then tell u if you can keep ps, and ac. Full size rad or half sized? What size injectors? and what ems system?
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Jeff, (jdmhatchracer94) did a ls with 8.0:1 compression pistons, delta 272/260 cams stock head I believe with a holset h1c, 12cm housing, and made 337whp and like 290tq. If I were you I would defiantly run the hy35. If you want a quick spool. It will carry your power to 7k easy. Once you get up in the power level(+350whp) it will start to level off on power. Assuming the motor is stock. What car is this in? I will then tell u if you can keep ps, and ac. Full size rad or half sized? What size injectors? and what ems system?
It's in a 1997 Integra. Currently using a ebay cast log manifold. Full rad (probably convert to an SI rad from the 99-00 civic) and dsm 440 injectors. Using crome pro for ems
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I don't think you will fit an hy35 with eBay manifold. The b16 I tuned was in an 00si and had a t3/t4 with eBay cast manifold. We had to make a log to fit the holset in there. He has no a/c or p/s parts at all.
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I have a lsv, rull sized stock rad and a hx35 in my 94 integra. It fits, but its fucking tight, and I have ps but no ac. But then again Im using a splog manifold, I had made. Not a cast ebay unit.
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Yea, the placement with the cast mani is horrible for holsets.
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Yea, the placement with the cast mani is horrible for holsets.
I ended up hanging my HX35 off of an SSAC manifold a few years back...only worked for about 1000miles. Then the turbo pulled the welds apart on the cheap mani and the turbo literally fell off the engine in traffic...Good times.
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I used a cast mani with an HY35 on a D-series in an ED chassis, fit ok with the half rad. The turbo faced the wrong way (inlet on pass side) so the downpipe was gay.
I used an HY and HX35 on an Ebay B-series ramhorn as well, fit great, braced both, no issues, ran 11s.
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Either is fine. Hy will spool quicker and be a fun street car. The large comp h1c has the same compressor as the hx 35. I will be finding the limits of the h1c soon
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Thanks for the replies.
Whats the difference between a hx35 and hy35 in spool time? The hx35 seems plentiful on ebay but the hy35, not so much..
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Thanks for the replies.
Whats the difference between a hx35 and hy35 in spool time? The hx35 seems plentiful on ebay but the hy35, not so much..
Depends on displacement, stock LS with stock redline an HY35 will probably suit your need and wants better. If you have any plans to go bigger bore or V-TACH at any point, then i'd opt for the HX35.
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In less you plan on some big cams, and a lot of boost, I would stick with the hy. The hx won't probably won't hit full boost untill the 5k mark. At which point the hy would have been at full boost for probably 1kby that time. Untill your revving your ls to 8k, I would try and go hy.
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Thanks guys. Anybody an hy for sale? Im looking to start my build asap
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Goldfarb
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Or check saulg on ebay. Best bet is to call him.
Or check with carkrazed here. He had one a while back that I think he was talking about getting rid of.
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Saulg = goldfarb
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My h1c at 20psi by 4200 the a 12cm housing
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Yours also has cams, and a huge intake manifold and throttle body.
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boosted 00 black si on here made close to 350hp on a bone stock ls with arp head studs using a h1c. Motor still running stong and doing dirty 3rds :noel:
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But for a street car it ould be a lot of fun with a h1c. Power on tap with little lag time. I just remember the days of stock d16 with rhb5's and being at full boost by 2k.
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But for a street car it ould be a lot of fun with a h1c. Power on tap with little lag time. I just remember the days of stock d16 with rhb5's and being at full boost by 2k.
Does anybody know what centimeter housing the h1c is available in? Planning to stick with the hy, but if i can find a housing close to the hy35, wouldn't that be a viable option as well?
While we're on the subject.. does anybody make flanges to position these massive things away from the block? I'll be running an oem half rad to make room in case we run into clearance issues with the engine.
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I belive the smallest h1c IVE seen is 12cm. I know that there is a aftermarket .63 I belive, but they are $$$$$ best bet is to pick up somebodys used splog/log/mini ram or something, and dump your ac to make room.
check my build thread, I think I have pictures of the manifold and turbo mounted with the clearance of the radiator.
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,16195.0.html (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,16195.0.html)
If you don't run a backdoor style intercooler you will have plenty of room to move a half core in there and move it over some, but you will probably have to run a pusher fan to make room for the downpipe.
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My intercooler isn't a backdoor setup, so i should have a decent amount of space. Its pretty tight in there with the full size and then those giant fan shrouds. Hopefully with a half size ill have more then enough room.
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HY typically comes with a 9cm2 exhuast housing but the same coldside IIRC...
Depending on chassis, be prepared for clearance issues, housings are pretty large on Holsets.
SSAC Like a boss...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi174.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fw95%2FSpeed_Phreak%2F1988%2520CRX%2520-%2520Turbo%2520Death%2520Trap%2Fblockturbo4_zps3b3e6a7d.jpg&hash=43fdb92f5b24525c1219a3203780544af352ba5a)
No front rad support and 1/2 width radiator, but different manifold same relative placement though... ED chassis. Front end was pretty much cut to shit to make everything fit on mine. I would've probably done it different in hindsight, since my old swap mounts move the engine forward a bit too much and over the years I was a little to happy with the sawzall.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi174.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fw95%2FSpeed_Phreak%2F1988%2520CRX%2520-%2520Turbo%2520Death%2520Trap%2FPicture006_zps8adebcbe.jpg&hash=b2163a91febfd01b96565292d7b661029a8a18a5)
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It seems that most people who have clearance issues, are running a swap, that moves the motor a bit forward (ef, ej chassis) from my research anyway. Ill probably run into them as well, but hopefully won't need to go sawzall happy lol
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Yes if you're blessed with a factory b-series chassis(or newer d-series), then you'll probably have less issues...But more weight. Thank your government and auto manufactures for all the crash protection and useless gob. Personally I like knowing I could die on impact in my 1700lb deathtrap, more fun that way.
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The .63 housings are on ebay all day for less than $200. Honestley i would go with a .70 and have fun. The hy why has a smaller comp then h1 or hx. I stick with the h1c cause they are cheaper then the hx.
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Can the hy comp housing be swapped out for for a 12cm housing?
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Can the hy comp housing be swapped out for for a 12cm housing?
You mean turbine housing? No, HX is attached via bolt down clamps, hy with a vband.
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just picked up an hy35.. pics to follow, looks pretty minty. Does everybody just use a -3AN line with no restrictor? Also is -10 suitable for a drain line on these things?
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi44.tinypic.com%2Fqz22ww.jpg&hash=58de6a5e1f97e3cc9ac2f7fb117159cd6811cad7)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi44.tinypic.com%2Fo9mfz8.jpg&hash=93869fca83626a63c8df7ff541b3b9dfc45877ae)
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I ran a -4 feed (no restrictor) and a -10 return.
Never had any issues.
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I ran a -4 with restrictor, and a 3/4" barb for the return. Wich is much larger than a -10an fitting. But I know lots of people running -10 returns with no problem.
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I'm pretty sure holsets are more tolerant of big oil feeds than other turbos. Diesel stronk, run forever
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But what oil pressure do they normaly see in factory form?
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-3 and a -10 return.
Fyi twin scroll if you can, I made a ton more power and full boost was almost 1000rpm sooner.
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But what oil pressure do they normaly see in factory form?
80-90psi cold
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But what oil pressure do they normaly see in factory form?
80-90psi cold
Wow, that's impressive. Do u happen to know what it is hot? Just wondering if a restrictor is neede or not. Don't want to over press it with to much but also don't want to stave it of the oil it needs.
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But what oil pressure do they normaly see in factory form?
80-90psi cold
Wow, that's impressive. Do u happen to know what it is hot? Just wondering if a restrictor is neede or not. Don't want to over press it with to much but also don't want to stave it of the oil it needs.
At idle when hot min spec is 15psi iirc and at 2500rpm is 30psi. So on a healthy engine 20-25psi idle hot, and 40-50psi operating rpm.
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But what oil pressure do they normaly see in factory form?
80-90psi cold
Wow, that's impressive. Do u happen to know what it is hot? Just wondering if a restrictor is neede or not. Don't want to over press it with to much but also don't want to stave it of the oil it needs.
At idle when hot min spec is 15psi iirc and at 2500rpm is 30psi. So on a healthy engine 20-25psi idle hot, and 40-50psi operating rpm.
Troof my Cummins idles at about 25psi and operating rpm 55-60psi.
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But what oil pressure do they normaly see in factory form?
80-90psi cold
Wow, that's impressive. Do u happen to know what it is hot? Just wondering if a restrictor is neede or not. Don't want to over press it with to much but also don't want to stave it of the oil it needs.
At idle when hot min spec is 15psi iirc and at 2500rpm is 30psi. So on a healthy engine 20-25psi idle hot, and 40-50psi operating rpm.
Troof my Cummins idles at about 25psi and operating rpm 55-60psi.
Same on my He351ve :noel: