:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: turbohf on July 23, 2013, 04:03:08 PM
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http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/engine-building/806195-css-cylinder-support-system.html (http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/engine-building/806195-css-cylinder-support-system.html)
http://www.cylindersupportsystem.com/ (http://www.cylindersupportsystem.com/)
thoughts? specifically I was thinking of doing this to a B20... honestly I wouldn't even bother with the rest...
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Talk to 1991civicsi
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,703.250.html (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,703.250.html)
Look towards the bottom of the page :noel:
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http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3139187 (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3139187)
I know I know, it's an HT link, but it proves a point
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i was gonna post up a bunch of links. been searching all day. but my phone is being a bitch and has forced closed my browser like a dozen times or more. :evil:
in general i dont give a shit about sleeving. i know the power im looking to make has been done, can be done, and i have no problem doing....on a B18. its just the homo siamese B20B/Z sleeves that are bothering me. i would like to push on this fucker to the 400+whp/400fttq range. daily.
so, im not really wanting to use this as a cracked sleeve prevention, but more as keeping the 4 cylinders in there place and keep them from breaking away from each other. and from what it looks like, it will do better at that then the other.....??
also have another....concern? from what he is saying, and then says. this is precision machined specifically to the block. and has had motors that have already been bored/honed or not at all use his system with no issue. but then what seems maybe a disclaimer that you should bore/hone the motor afterwords.
but i dont need to tell you that im a jew. i have no plans on running this motor if it needs bored/honed. that will push the price of this quickly towards a sleeved motor.
thoughts on that?
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i did find a B20B/Z
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi16.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb35%2Ftrickeng%2FIMG_17181_zpsf6fb92c0.jpg&hash=b9eb162438ff61fe64fdfaa26b4970f2ea3e026b)
no word on turbo motors with power. he said in a thread that most have been for NA/nitrous motors.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi16.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb35%2Ftrickeng%2FIMG_0591-1.jpg&hash=03dbf777fc073d153ca0fc10e190e853848ea647)
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3042021 (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3042021) <~from that thread.
also, like how that thread on hatertech seemed to only bring out the haters, not silence them. classic. ::)
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It sounds like the only real option for you then. I talked to them about not boring the block after cause I had plans of pushing the block to its limits. D's seem to crack horizontally in the 600-650 range, I want to get into the 9's on stock sleeves. They seemed to have no problem with not boring the cylinders, but in disclaimer fashion said they recommend it after the conversation. I wouldn't hesitate to only run a hone through yourself afterwards and do work.
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CSS=WIN!
I know of a few locals in the 600-850hp range with those css and a few are going on 3 years and tons of passes!
Here is all you need to know, find 1 crack sleeve that crack from power! There is always talk about it being a block guard bah bah bah YET not one crack sleeve. I saw a few dead motors and the sleeves where hurt, but when a motor drops a valve nothing is going to save it.
Last for the money, it is hands down one of the best and cheapest things you can do to keep a motor alive above 500hp on my book.
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so , it's like a blockguard but made more precise and installed properly..
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B20 sleeves are good to 350 whp. It's B16 sleeves that are junk.
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B20 sleeves are good to 350 whp. It's B16 sleeves that are junk.
looking for 400-550whp tho....
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Ok, I see why people use these on there track cars. But how cool/hot do these make the motor run in day to day stop and go traffic? That would be my main concern with these. With the location that its supporting the block I would believe that it could Fuck your cooling. In a race car what ever. But heat soaking could Fuck you on this if you were to dd it.
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Ok, I see why people use these on there track cars. But how cool/hot do these make the motor run in day to day stop and go traffic? That would be my main concern with these. With the location that its supporting the block I would believe that it could Fuck your cooling. In a race car what ever. But heat soaking could Fuck you on this if you were to dd it.
No cooling issues! Think about it if people with fully sleeved blocks dont have issues this wont either its aluminum and should help remove heat from the sleeve if anything.
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I have read threw lots of these posts now. and they sell say no cooling issues. but I know people with aebs/solid deck sleeves that say the same.
but I'm not concerned with what the coolant gauge/sensor says. I'm way more concerned with actual cylinder temps. the open deck design is said to promote lower temps in the upper part of the stroke. for better performance/emissions etc.
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B20 sleeves are good to 350 whp. It's B16 sleeves that are junk.
looking for 400-550whp tho....
Barely any of that is obtainable on pump gas, next to none of it will hook on the street.
the open deck design is said to promote lower temps in the upper part of the stroke. for better performance/emissions etc.
Fuck your emissions, and the boost controller is your better performance.
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I would just think that with a closed deck at the top it would create hotter areas for det to happen. Fuck it dustin! Run a stock block and see where it breaks. Chances are you wont even have it long enough to have it tuned and you will sell it to start a new build.
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I don't see the point of boosting a b20. I have tuned plenty of 400+hp vtec b18's on pump gas. Why bother with the fragile b20?
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more displacement.
it won't hook anything over 300. don't care.
will be running e85
want to run the B20 cuz I'm gonna have it. why not :P
B18 is still in the car anyway. I'll work at breaking that first. just planning for built motor when it breaks.
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Im coming up on 2k miles with a b18b CSS block throwing 25-26 psi at it from a GT3076r. Im not raping it at every turn but it is being raped. So far so good. ECTs never go over 200F.
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Im coming up on 2k miles with a b18b CSS block throwing 25-26 psi at it from a GT3076r. Im not raping it at every turn but it is being raped. So far so good. ECTs never go over 200F.
Is it daily driven?
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Ok, I see why people use these on there track cars. But how cool/hot do these make the motor run in day to day stop and go traffic? That would be my main concern with these. With the location that its supporting the block I would believe that it could Fuck your cooling. In a race car what ever. But heat soaking could Fuck you on this if you were to dd it.
No cooling issues! Think about it if people with fully sleeved blocks dont have issues this wont either its aluminum and should help remove heat from the sleeve if anything.
I am planning on using one of these for my next build. My current setup has devcon at the top n in the middle, hindering coolant flow way more than this ever would. In stop and go traffic I see 200-205ish coolant temps. Cruising it sees 170-185. Keep in mind I use a 170 tstat with a couple holes drilled in it, a 1.1 bar cap, and a full width radiator.
Think about the direction the water pump moves coolant, toward the dipstick/exhaust(heated) side of the block. I don't see these blocks being a problem for use in a dd...
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I would actually think this won't hurt cooling much at all. The heat will transfer to the outside block wall, so you'd actually have more surface area for the water to cool. It would create some hotspots compared to no CSS, but aluminum conducts heat much better than a full cast iron sleeve.
I'd love to see this done to an F23 block with a built H22 head. Someone convince Spiker to get one as a backup block for the third time he puts a hole in his H22.
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It would be neat to use on my million dollar B20V project, but I seem to make bad decisions about who to trust when it comes to having work done or buying aftermarket parts for that pile.
fuck.
:P
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Nyce1s - Worlds Fastest Honda w/ Stock Sleeves... Eggy Racing's CNC Werx Turbo Civic! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9yoHgKQmk4#ws)
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Jahheeeezzzzusss.
Low 9s on "stock sleeves."
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Im coming up on 2k miles with a b18b CSS block throwing 25-26 psi at it from a GT3076r. Im not raping it at every turn but it is being raped. So far so good. ECTs never go over 200F.
Is it daily driven?
Damn near, It sees the streets at least 3-5 out of 7 days.
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Im coming up on 2k miles with a b18b CSS block throwing 25-26 psi at it from a GT3076r. Im not raping it at every turn but it is being raped. So far so good. ECTs never go over 200F.
Is it daily driven?
Damn near, It sees the streets at least 3-5 out of 7 days.
Well shit, that's bad ass.
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Awesome to hear, Otis.
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So i see alot if honda motors that have used this CSS process. I am wondering what everyone thinks as I am doong research to see if this is worth doing for the build of my caliber srt4 as opposed to getting the block resleeved. I have an open end block and am looking to be putting 450-470whp to it. Any thoughts or opinions??
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So i see alot if honda motors that have used this CSS process. I am wondering what everyone thinks as I am doong research to see if this is worth doing for the build of my caliber srt4 as opposed to getting the block resleeved. I have an open end block and am looking to be putting 450-470whp to it. Any thoughts or opinions??
Thought or opinion?
Who the fuck are you?
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,14535.0.html (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,14535.0.html)