:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: ohisofly on October 30, 2013, 05:47:20 PM
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I've been lurking for a while but figure it's time to post my gem, 1991 Crx Si. This is my daily driver but plan on going turbo within the next month or two. Here's what I'm working with, let me know what you guys think
This is roughly what it looked like when I got it, yea I was a ricer O0
(http://i50.tinypic.com/f0xbnd.jpg)
Here she is at the moment
(http://i47.tinypic.com/24vognp.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2z5r8rl.jpg)
When I got the car it had a b18a1 with i/h/e, had fun with that till this summer when I bought another ls to rebuild
(http://i48.tinypic.com/35hiwaq.jpg)
(http://i40.tinypic.com/ka08zq.jpg)
It's a stock rebuild with arp head studs and rod bolts, cable ls tranny with stage 6 action 6 puck clutch, converted to obd1 and on crome at the moment
(http://i39.tinypic.com/5nw5xh.jpg)
(http://i41.tinypic.com/2ic9rmx.jpg)
(http://i44.tinypic.com/ekiwhw.jpg)
Here's what I have regarding the turbo setup
- 60 trim garrett turbo, guy I got it from had it on a gmc truck. Does have some shaft play, I bought an eBay rebuild kit so I'll probably be doing that this weekend. If that blows up, I got this new eBay turbo for $50 from a kid at work
(http://i45.tinypic.com/5y9e0l.jpg)
- turbonetics raptor bov
(http://i50.tinypic.com/v4tj48.jpg)
- 38mm tial wastegate
- stock evo8 intercooler
- ebay cast manifold
- 3 bar map from Tim on the way
- 900cc injectors from Hi profile on the way
- ecu from Turbohf on the way since I'm pretty sure mine is toast
- tunerview 2
- burn2, ostrich, hulog
- plx dm6 wideband
- golden eagle sandwich plate
Only things I really need to get (at least I think so) are the flange for the downpipe, dump tube, oil lines for the turbo and intercooler piping. My uncle is a welder and will be doing the intercooler piping and downpipe/dump tube. That's about it, engine has around 5,000 miles on it and running strong. If anyone cares the full build thread is on crxcommunity, thanks to crxvtec91 for showing me this website
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Decent start, you are lacking the porn though.
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you are lacking the porn though.
Look at this
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,25.0.html (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,25.0.html)
and then report back..
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you are lacking the porn though.
Look at this
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,25.0.html (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,25.0.html)
and then report back..
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you are lacking the porn though.
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Not TOO ricey. Dig those phone dials. Ebay turbo you scored is a classic .57trim. Good shit.
(http://i48.tinypic.com/35hiwaq.jpg)
Leave the engine here. ;)
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Not TOO ricey. Dig those phone dials. Ebay turbo you scored is a classic .57trim. Good shit.
(http://i48.tinypic.com/35hiwaq.jpg)
Leave the engine here. ;)
Thanks man, I get a lot of crap for the phone dials but I'm definitely a sucker for em. My friend had a similar eBay turbo on his b18c and made just over 300hp, ever since riding in that car I can't even talk bad about those turbos cause that thing moved :mexi: and yea rwd would be baller
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Good to see you posting this up.
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you are lacking the porn though.
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you are lacking the porn though.
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Is that a carpeted garage?
(http://i41.tinypic.com/2ic9rmx.jpg)
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Wednesday is coming.
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Wednesday is coming.
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Come on guys, this dude is OKAY. He actually paid me money for injectors rather than send nudes of his anus like SOME "tunars" on this website...
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he bought an ECU from me... he is paid up to the right people it sounds like...
i also sent some stickers. so i/we better see them with some proper placement on vehicle...
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Sent me cash for a map sensor as well, not sure if he even had a post yet
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odd...usually the other way around. they try to sell a bunch of shit, may or maynot ship, then disappear... he bought a stuff made intro, then left?
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Yup. Not sure he left though. Obviously a lurker if he sent the three of us money.
Maybe he's doing work
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Is that a carpeted garage?
(http://i41.tinypic.com/2ic9rmx.jpg)
Yes it is :mexi: my dad recently moved into this house, and the previous owner had this carpet in so we just left it there. It's really thin 'outdoor' carpet, and while it makes oil/coolant spills into a bigger mess, it's nice to lay on while working on the car compared to cement ;DDD
Yup. Not sure he left though. Obviously a lurker if he sent the three of us money.
Maybe he's doing work
Yea sorry guys I've just been busy with life. Thanksgiving and winter break is coming up (I'm in college) so thing will pick up soon. So here's what's new:
Got this b16a throttle body from a friend, he got a skunk2 throttle body when he went turbo
(http://i43.tinypic.com/2wedt1g.jpg)
Here's the 900cc injectors, thanks again to hiprofile
(http://i42.tinypic.com/2ikf8mu.jpg)
Random but my dad's friend is working on this, tube chassis 65 falcon with a 466. The ef hatch is the background is my dad's $300 daily, might see some boost next year :D
(http://i39.tinypic.com/v7ysdj.jpg)
The racecar
(http://i44.tinypic.com/2cr25wm.jpg)
Scored 7 of these for $100 :Jew:
(http://i42.tinypic.com/ydy7o.jpg)
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Here's what garrett told me about the turbo when I emailed them asking for specs
Turbocharger is Garrett model TA34
Compressor Stage
A/R 0.60
Trim 60
Wheel Dia 75.0mm
Wheel Type BCCW4
Turbine Stage
A/R 0.63
Trim 76
Wheel Dia 65.0mm
Wheel Type T3HF
The compressor map is good for about 530hp.
Turbocharger was produced in December of 2003 at our Mexicali Mexico plant.
Here's some pics
(http://i43.tinypic.com/20r8xzq.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/xpd8ht.jpg)
(http://i41.tinypic.com/3329kw6.jpg)
You can see here two of the downpipe bolts are snapped off, I still need to fix that
(http://i43.tinypic.com/fbm82b.jpg)
(http://i42.tinypic.com/whis79.jpg)
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(http://i40.tinypic.com/9iwr3q.jpg)
(http://i44.tinypic.com/2eex6z9.jpg)
The workstation
(http://i44.tinypic.com/v7zexx.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/34retnd.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2uzt3tj.jpg)
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This is where I'm at right now
(http://i43.tinypic.com/x3bx2p.jpg)
The compressor side came off after some tapping with a rubber mallet, but the turbine side doesn't want to come off at all. Here's the other issue I have, I can't loosen a couple of these bolts the entire way until the turbine side breaks free from the middle section. I've been soaking it with liquid wrench, any advice would be great
(http://i44.tinypic.com/etzeip.jpg)
Here's my cluster, I've seen some pics of people installing the tunerview2 in the middle but couldn't find a write-up so I just got a dremel and started going to work
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2chnb4g.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/j7qp1z.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/302phrm.jpg)
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It's pretty much a perfect fit after the trimming of the cluster housing is done, only issue is the gas and temp gauges don't fit very well so I still have some more trimming to do
(http://i41.tinypic.com/34gouuo.jpg)
Here's one of the screens I have setup on the tunerview2
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2duglea.jpg)
I've been trying for hours to get the tunerview2 to work when connected to the ecu but still haven't had any luck, all it says is 'connecting...'. I've posted on the hrtuning support forum, just haven't had time to mess with it recently
I still have to take off my bumper and try to mock up how the intercooler is going to be mounted, but if possible I'll try to route the piping like this. Ebay intercooler piping kit is on the way
(http://i44.tinypic.com/2rmmtsi.jpg)
Picked this up on Saturday for $200 ;DDD
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2uqiwqf.jpg)
(http://i44.tinypic.com/2rrs0nk.jpg)
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hit the turbine housing with a real hammer. not a mallet. fucker will come off. just get some solid taps going around the turbo in a clockwise rotation... ;)
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hit the turbine housing with a real hammer. not a mallet. fucker will come off. just get some solid taps going around the turbo in a clockwise rotation... ;)
Thanks for the tip, I'll give that a shot. Here's the last of the pics I've got
(http://i39.tinypic.com/eqs74x.jpg)
(http://i44.tinypic.com/2vt8bo7.jpg)
(http://i42.tinypic.com/2vljy8h.jpg)
Beamer is a 1995 318i with a 4 banger that has 170k. Car basically stopped running and was sitting for a few weeks before I got it. Unfortunately one of the windows was left down and there was an inch or two of water, so I'll probably end up taking the seats out and cleaning everything properly. I used a shopvac to clean it up best I could for right now. Battery was dead, put a new battery in and all lights and such work but when you turn the key to crank nothing happens at all. I haven't had time to look into it, and honestly I'm not super worried about it because the crx is my priority. Hopefully during winter break I can fix it up and use it as a daily.
As of right now here are some things I've realized I still need to buy, I'm open to any suggestions
- boost controller (manual or electronic & what brand?)
- silicone intercooler couplers, t bolt clamps and bov flange (I'm thinking ebay for all of this)
- I've been told I'll need a different throttle cable bracket with this throttle body, but I didn't bother looking for any differences yet
That's all for now
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$200 bimmer. I need to move. Dumb niggers shitting everyone round hurr.
If all possible try to remove your turbine housing before the compressor housing. Really easy to bend compressor wheel fins not even meaning to. That tunerview shit looks cool.
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what charge piping kit did you order?
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$200 bimmer. I need to move.
The previous owner was a friend's uncle, my friend is into cars and I'm sure he could have fixed it but he's busy and said he'd rather see this thing live than go to a junkyard
If all possible try to remove your turbine housing before the compressor housing. Really easy to bend compressor wheel fins not even meaning to. That tunerview shit looks cool.
Is that what I'm trying to do right now or the exact opposite? If I put the section back on that I took off, there isn't any room to swing a hammer and even hit the other side
what charge piping kit did you order?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251303514718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/251303514718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
says it'll be here Friday
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(http://i44.tinypic.com/etzeip.jpg)
Im in the same boat right now with an hx35
The last one I kept soaking, then hit the housing with some heat
Then I tightened that bolt in the picture
Stuck a pry bar between it and the flange above it
Backed out the bolt into the pry bar and let it push the center out
Once it broke free a little bit I could work it off
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/251303514718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/251303514718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
says it'll be here Friday
Do not forget to roll your own bead on the IC piping.
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/100_0085.jpg?t=1271486164)
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/100_0086.jpg?t=1271486551)
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/100_0089.jpg?t=1271486901)
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/100_0090.jpg?t=1271487028)
Gives your hands a workout, couplers stay on, and if you have trouble w/ couplers getting over the bead use vaseline or di-electric grease. :noel:
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/251303514718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/251303514718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
says it'll be here Friday
Do not forget to roll your own bead on the IC piping.
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/100_0085.jpg?t=1271486164)
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/100_0086.jpg?t=1271486551)
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/100_0089.jpg?t=1271486901)
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/100_0090.jpg?t=1271487028)
Gives your hands a workout, couplers stay on, and if you have trouble w/ couplers getting over the bead use vaseline or di-electric grease. :noel:
Thanks for the heads up, that looks like a really good idea. Is there a specific name for those pliers or did you just get lucky and it worked for that situation?
(http://i44.tinypic.com/etzeip.jpg)
Im in the same boat right now with an hx35
The last one I kept soaking, then hit the housing with some heat
Then I tightened that bolt in the picture
Stuck a pry bar between it and the flange above it
Backed out the bolt into the pry bar and let it push the center out
Once it broke free a little bit I could work it off
Thanks for the details man, I'll give that a try. I honestly had no idea if this was a somewhat-common problem or if I was just really unlucky haha
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Common. This one is being a cunt and still won't budge
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Do not forget to roll your own bead on the IC piping.
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/100_0085.jpg?t=1271486164)
Gives your hands a workout, couplers stay on, and if you have trouble w/ couplers getting over the bead use vaseline or di-electric grease. :noel:
I made my own back when I had my turbo crx, used hairspray too.
good old 1980's aquanet
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Do not forget to roll your own bead on the IC piping.
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/100_0085.jpg?t=1271486164)
Gives your hands a workout, couplers stay on, and if you have trouble w/ couplers getting over the bead use vaseline or di-electric grease. :noel:
I made my own back when I had my turbo crx, used hairspray too.
good old 1980's aquanet
Could you explain? Sorry I'm confused ???
I did some work this weekend, if I'm not too lazy I'll put up some pics tomorrow O0 what do you guys think about getting an ebay ram horn manifold and then getting my uncle to go over the welds and 'reinforce' it? I searched and found a few threads of people running ebay ramhorn manifolds; I'm thinking about this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CIVIC-CRX-B16-B18-T3-Turbo-RAMHORN-MANIFOLD-/160643182543?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2567146fcf&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CIVIC-CRX-B16-B18-T3-Turbo-RAMHORN-MANIFOLD-/160643182543?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2567146fcf&vxp=mtr)
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Do not forget to roll your own bead on the IC piping.
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/92CXyD/100_0085.jpg?t=1271486164)
Gives your hands a workout, couplers stay on, and if you have trouble w/ couplers getting over the bead use vaseline or di-electric grease. :noel:
I made my own back when I had my turbo crx, used hairspray too.
good old 1980's aquanet
Could you explain? Sorry I'm confused ???
Explain which, aquanet or bead rolling?
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I just don't understand how hair spray is related to bead rolling haha
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I just don't understand how hair spray is related to bead rolling haha
Old skool solution if you do not bead roll then you glue the shit together. :noel:
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I just don't understand how hair spray is related to bead rolling haha
Old skool solution if you do not bead roll then you glue the shit together. :noel:
Exactly, spray that shit all over the coupler and piping, it slides on super easy then when it dries it's almost like glue. expensive hair spray doesn't work, but the cheap crap does.
it's an old trick I learned when I was a kid riding bmx bikes. putting new grips on the bars. hair spray makes them slide on and when it dries they won't come off.
I made my own bead roller with a pair of pliers, jbweld and some small nuts. I tried to find the pic I took but couldn't.
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paint works well too. you paint all your pipes. let them dry. then hit the ends before you slide it together. think that was the Jeff Frank method.
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I just don't understand how hair spray is related to bead rolling haha
Old skool solution if you do not bead roll then you glue the shit together. :noel:
I just don't understand how hair spray is related to bead rolling haha
Old skool solution if you do not bead roll then you glue the shit together. :noel:
Exactly, spray that shit all over the coupler and piping, it slides on super easy then when it dries it's almost like glue. expensive hair spray doesn't work, but the cheap crap does.
it's an old trick I learned when I was a kid riding bmx bikes. putting new grips on the bars. hair spray makes them slide on and when it dries they won't come off.
I made my own bead roller with a pair of pliers, jbweld and some small nuts. I tried to find the pic I took but couldn't.
paint works well too. you paint all your pipes. let them dry. then hit the ends before you slide it together. think that was the Jeff Frank method.
Thanks for the info guys, that's definitely something I'll keep in mind. I got my bov flange, downpipe flange, wastegate gasket, some random intercooler piping stuff, etc. so I think now I have just about everything. After I see what I have left from black friday I'll be ordering the ramhorn manifold and boost controller
Could someone give me a link to info on boost controllers, or is anyone willing to explain them in detail to me? I've searched on here but couldn't find much. I know they trick the wastegate so you can run more boost, but what makes a $80 hallman boost controller so much better than a $15 ebay one? I assume someone would only need an electronic boost controller for boost by gear?
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Proper couplers and clamps with good fitting pipes works pretty solid. I have 3" chargepipes with no bead or hair spray/glue of any kind. Holds solid to 30psi, maybe more. Never pushed it harder
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Proper couplers and clamps with good fitting pipes
This is RHMT not Honda Tech, we use what ever we can find for charge piping. do you forget the brake kleen can charge pipe?
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I made my charge pipes from aluminized steel from Columbia River and mig welded it. It's pretty RHMT.
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I made my charge pipes from aluminized steel from Columbia River and mig welded it. It's pretty RHMT.
mine is made from left overs from Columbia River purchases, and previous builds that have been cut up and used again... FLUX CORE O0 cuz this is RHMT...
btw. i just weld little stitches/dimples on the end of my pipes. use worm drives clamps from Home Depot, 4ply Mishimoto couplers. shit works fine...even on the Galant at 25psi...
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Here's where I'm at right now, looks like the car is just going to sit until it's turbo. I went to put on my b16a throttle body, but the fast idle valve is located on the throttle body instead of the intake manifold. So now I have to put back on my obd0 intake manifold, which I was too lazy to do at the time
(http://i41.tinypic.com/14tbx38.jpg)
Close enough right?
(http://i41.tinypic.com/j7tisp.jpg)
This is with the intercooler in the orientation that it's in when on the evo
(http://i39.tinypic.com/1zyyfls.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/rsykhk.jpg)
The piping isn't going to go like this I was just seeing what it would look like
(http://i41.tinypic.com/2m7hnrm.jpg)
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Again the piping isn't really going to go like this just getting a feel for things
(http://i40.tinypic.com/er0ps4.jpg)
(http://i44.tinypic.com/23wmp0j.jpg)
Ebay swag
(http://i44.tinypic.com/ngc8xf.jpg)
I'll have fun with the intake manifold this weekend hopefully
(http://i41.tinypic.com/2yjphxk.jpg)
At this point I had my Uncle come over and we were trying to figure out the best way to do the intercooler piping
(http://i40.tinypic.com/vmrxw2.jpg)
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Making room
(http://i39.tinypic.com/10hn39v.jpg)
Intercooler will be moved back to the red area and the rad in the green, only reason for this is to have the sleeper look because I won't be cutting away at the bumper at all and the intercooler will be painted black
(http://i41.tinypic.com/30ikr60.jpg)
Original picture for reference
(http://i39.tinypic.com/28upc2v.jpg)
This is where things get complicated, but this is option #1 which assumes I'm using a ramhorn manifold. It has as little piping as possible, and on the drivers side still has the piping down low which will be needed for a ramhorn manifold
(http://i43.tinypic.com/21ooqd1.jpg)
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This is option #2, assuming I would be using a top mount manifold. Yes, I already know a top mount manifold is pointless and a waste of money considering the power I'm trying to make. But this summer I'll probably be throwing a forged bottom end and maybe going lsv or a p8r head so she'll definitely be seeing more power. At that point when I get a bigger turbo I understand that I may be going twin scroll, but even then I wouldn't have to completely redo my intercooler piping setup if it was already made for a top mount. Plus top mount just looks baller O0
My uncle said he could probably make one using this manifold I have at my house along with some random piping
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2hcg9a9.jpg)
Or I could buy one on ebay and most likely just cut off the v band wastegate flange and weld on a 2 bolt flange since I already have my wastegate. Either way, a ramhorn manifold is already roughly $150 on ebay so I'm perfectly fine with spending $300 to go topmount.
Assuming I went topmount, this is how the intercooler setup would be. I didn't have a pic of the intercooler flipped but it would be flipped from the option #1 orientation. No the downpipe will not exit the hood haha
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2duwapf.jpg)
I'd much rather go the topmount route solely because it looks much better in my opinion, and would make things easier. But I'm open to all suggestions. I know this intercooler is overkill for my setup but again down the road I don't want that to be my limiting factor and then have to redo everything for a bigger intercooler. That's all I have for now, what do you guys think?
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Remove fast idle valve, make a block off plate and gasket..... Problem solved
The 2 piece 4-2-1 headers are much easier to make top mounts with. Don't make it harder than it has to be
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(http://i44.tinypic.com/ngc8xf.jpg)
I hope the turbo really isn't going there. :?:
Opt #2 with a elephant top mount is in the spirit of RHMT gangster.
(https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ_jYI4YBy-mn8OjSmoJTQzbWtg50egCFyAkwZBcy-WePt-mEgZ)
or Sinktrap
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/3913/bseriessselephant0347jq.jpg)
(http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/3057/selephantmanifold012gl0.jpg)
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Remove fast idle valve, make a block off plate and gasket..... Problem solved
The 2 piece 4-2-1 headers are much easier to make top mounts with. Don't make it harder than it has to be
Having no fast idle valve and having my car as a daily in the winter isn't very fun, that's the only reason I want to keep it because it makes things so much easier under cold starts. I didn't know people even did that, I need to start thinking more rhmt style :mexi:
(http://i44.tinypic.com/ngc8xf.jpg)
I hope the turbo really isn't going there. :?:
Opt #2 with a elephant top mount is in the spirit of RHMT gangster.
(https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ_jYI4YBy-mn8OjSmoJTQzbWtg50egCFyAkwZBcy-WePt-mEgZ)
or Sinktrap
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/3913/bseriessselephant0347jq.jpg)
(http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/3057/selephantmanifold012gl0.jpg)
Yea I was just messing around putting the ebay turbo there. Thanks for all those pictures, that was going to be my next question haha. I'll show those to my uncle this weekend. It looks like those first two have a twin scroll design, is that intended for those setups or just how it ended up working? Regardless I'll definitely be going this route
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They just merge at the flange, they aren't twin scroll.
You don't need a fast idle valve. The iacv will idle the car plenty high enough. Stop being a pussy.
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Sinktrap FTW! Keep it twin scroll!
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Could someone give me a link to info on boost controllers, or is anyone willing to explain them in detail to me? I've searched on here but couldn't find much. I know they trick the wastegate so you can run more boost, but what makes a $80 hallman boost controller so much better than a $15 ebay one? I assume someone would only need an electronic boost controller for boost by gear?
I made one like this, I wish I could give you more info, but it was like 5 years ago and I don't remember.
google "diy mbc" and you should be able to figure it out.
Took me 5 street runs to get it dialed into 12psi, just make sure you keep the wrenches with you to adjust all the time. just in case you need to adjust it a year down the road
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They just merge at the flange, they aren't twin scroll.
You don't need a fast idle valve. The iacv will idle the car plenty high enough. Stop being a pussy.
QFT.
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Could someone give me a link to info on boost controllers, or is anyone willing to explain them in detail to me? I've searched on here but couldn't find much. I know they trick the wastegate so you can run more boost, but what makes a $80 hallman boost controller so much better than a $15 ebay one? I assume someone would only need an electronic boost controller for boost by gear?
I made one like this, I wish I could give you more info, but it was like 5 years ago and I don't remember.
google "diy mbc" and you should be able to figure it out.
Took me 5 street runs to get it dialed into 12psi, just make sure you keep the wrenches with you to adjust all the time. just in case you need to adjust it a year down the road
Or try this http://web.archive.org/web/20071018023421/http://homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=75418.0 (http://web.archive.org/web/20071018023421/http://homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=75418.0)
I've been wanting to try this for some time. :noel:
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Could someone give me a link to info on boost controllers, or is anyone willing to explain them in detail to me? I've searched on here but couldn't find much. I know they trick the wastegate so you can run more boost, but what makes a $80 hallman boost controller so much better than a $15 ebay one? I assume someone would only need an electronic boost controller for boost by gear?
I made one like this, I wish I could give you more info, but it was like 5 years ago and I don't remember.
google "diy mbc" and you should be able to figure it out.
Took me 5 street runs to get it dialed into 12psi, just make sure you keep the wrenches with you to adjust all the time. just in case you need to adjust it a year down the road
Or try this http://web.archive.org/web/20071018023421/http://homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=75418.0 (http://web.archive.org/web/20071018023421/http://homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=75418.0)
I've been wanting to try this for some time. :noel:
yeah I've wanted to make something like that too.
Shit I forgot the pic I found online of the kind I made
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/omgosh/mbc009small.jpg)
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They just merge at the flange, they aren't twin scroll.
You don't need a fast idle valve. The iacv will idle the car plenty high enough. Stop being a pussy.
Ah ok I see, and does the iacv have some type of adjustment then or what? My brother and I both have ls swapped efs and neither will stay running without holding down the gas during cold start. If you turn up the idle screw enough to keep it running then it's idling over 1k even when warmed up
Could someone give me a link to info on boost controllers, or is anyone willing to explain them in detail to me? I've searched on here but couldn't find much. I know they trick the wastegate so you can run more boost, but what makes a $80 hallman boost controller so much better than a $15 ebay one? I assume someone would only need an electronic boost controller for boost by gear?
I made one like this, I wish I could give you more info, but it was like 5 years ago and I don't remember.
google "diy mbc" and you should be able to figure it out.
Took me 5 street runs to get it dialed into 12psi, just make sure you keep the wrenches with you to adjust all the time. just in case you need to adjust it a year down the road
Thanks for the heads up, I'll definitely be looking into this and making a trip to lowes soon
Could someone give me a link to info on boost controllers, or is anyone willing to explain them in detail to me? I've searched on here but couldn't find much. I know they trick the wastegate so you can run more boost, but what makes a $80 hallman boost controller so much better than a $15 ebay one? I assume someone would only need an electronic boost controller for boost by gear?
I made one like this, I wish I could give you more info, but it was like 5 years ago and I don't remember.
google "diy mbc" and you should be able to figure it out.
Took me 5 street runs to get it dialed into 12psi, just make sure you keep the wrenches with you to adjust all the time. just in case you need to adjust it a year down the road
Or try this http://web.archive.org/web/20071018023421/http://homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=75418.0 (http://web.archive.org/web/20071018023421/http://homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=75418.0)
I've been wanting to try this for some time. :noel:
Looks like it would be baller, pretty interesting that's for sure
Right now I have finals so there won't be much to update with this week, I ordered silicone couplers and an ebay 4-2-1 along with the t4 and wastegate flanges so maybe I can get started on making the manifold this weekend
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The only adjustment is in the tuning software
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my EK just magicly hold steady at just below 1000rpms with no fast idle valve, and no idle screw. its been like 10-30° here for a week or so, rocks the remote start with no issue. idles at 1200-1300ish on first startup.
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The only adjustment is in the tuning software
I was wondering why there was an adjustment for that in crome, makes perfect sense now
my EK just magicly hold steady at just below 1000rpms with no fast idle valve, and no idle screw. its been like 10-30° here for a week or so, rocks the remote start with no issue. idles at 1200-1300ish on first startup.
Remote start would be baller O0
According to eBay there's no hiccups in the shipping so all the goodies will be there when I get home Friday. After the recent update of crome it wouldn't let me open 1.6.8, so I uninstalled and installed 1.6.9 and now it still says I have an outdated version and won't let me open it up. Any suggestions?
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I only use my laptop for tuning... so I just change the date in windows :noel:
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1.6.9, was it R2 or the original?
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=23817 (http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=23817) might help
Are you using Demon or Ostrich 2.0 and Hulog? :noel:
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I only use my laptop for tuning... so I just change the date in windows :noel:
That's a good idea, never even crossed my mind but thanks for mentioning that
1.6.9, was it R2 or the original?
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=23817 (http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=23817) might help
Are you using Demon or Ostrich 2.0 and Hulog? :noel:
It was the original, I'm going to uninstall and try the r2 right now so I'll update shortly with how that goes. Using ostrich 2.0 and hulog, honestly I'm still a major noob with tuning so I might be some of the problem. I could never get ostrich to work properly with my old p75, then I think I burned a chip that was in the burner the wrong way and ruined the p75. Now I have a p06 but haven't tried anything with ostrich yet. My friend has a b20v that I can use to mess with ostrich and tuning in general in the meantime till the crx is back on the road ;DDD
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Well now crome works which is good, I'm just having the same issues the people are having on pgmfi.org where it won't let you increase or decrease a selection
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Pretty sure I have 1.6.8 on my laptop with no real issues. Only problem is after updating this most recent time I can't get my hulog to connect. Always says connection timeout.
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Pretty sure I have 1.6.8 on my laptop with no real issues. Only problem is after updating this most recent time I can't get my hulog to connect. Always says connection timeout.
Had this issue but it worked when switch to 1.6.9 R2. :noel:
When in doubt go back to 1.5.5 it still work perfect if you get in a bind due to some weird update issue.
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Pretty sure I have 1.6.8 on my laptop with no real issues. Only problem is after updating this most recent time I can't get my hulog to connect. Always says connection timeout.
Yea 1.6.8 worked fine for me till it 'forced' me to update
Pretty sure I have 1.6.8 on my laptop with no real issues. Only problem is after updating this most recent time I can't get my hulog to connect. Always says connection timeout.
Had this issue but it worked when switch to 1.6.9 R2. :noel:
When in doubt go back to 1.5.5 it still work perfect if you get in a bind due to some weird update issue.
Where can I download 1.5.5? That would definitely be nice to have for a situation like this
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http://www.tunewithcrome.com/download/crome.beta.1.5.5.zip (http://www.tunewithcrome.com/download/crome.beta.1.5.5.zip) :noel:
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http://www.tunewithcrome.com/download/crome.beta.1.5.5.zip (http://www.tunewithcrome.com/download/crome.beta.1.5.5.zip) :noel:
I tried this but iirc I had some trouble, I'll report back once I have time to mess with it again.
Here's a 2014 crz at work, the body is redesigned slightly but looks much better than the 2013 O0
(http://i42.tinypic.com/34o7yo0.jpg)
Taking my header off
(http://i41.tinypic.com/f3gfx0.jpg)
Mocking up the eBay header
(http://i42.tinypic.com/wmgoyx.jpg)
The sharpie shows the rough lines we cut it at to make a tighter fit in the bay
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2uj19ig.jpg)
Before surgery
(http://i42.tinypic.com/30saijc.jpg)
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I had to move this hood latch cable around slightly to fit the intercooler in there
(http://i44.tinypic.com/1zodfmt.jpg)
(http://i44.tinypic.com/29lirkp.jpg)
Starting surgery
(http://i43.tinypic.com/2dtsx9g.jpg)
She's a big girl ;DDD the intercooler sits directly under the piece that has the hood latch, which is why the turbo manifold needs to be custom. I didn't take pics but I already have the turbo and wastegate flanges. The intercooler is going in this spot so I don't have to trim away at the bumper much which will retain the 'sleeper' look
(http://i44.tinypic.com/2it3mgm.jpg)
(http://i40.tinypic.com/15qzux1.jpg)
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Here's a better picture of how the intercooler is positioned
(http://i41.tinypic.com/2jc7s5c.jpg)
Here's the rough idea of what the sinktrap style manifold will look like
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2vudi8n.jpg)
The header
(http://i44.tinypic.com/1reov5.jpg)
We've already cut the header where the red line is to weld on the turbo flange, but where the wastegate will go is going to be an extremely tight fit, something like this
(http://i43.tinypic.com/14npffk.jpg)
Is this going to be ok? That seems what the other sinktrap designs look like but it'll be extremely close in between the wastegate and turbo flange so I just wanted to make sure. My uncle is coming over tomorrow to continue on this thing, he couldn't bring his welder over last time because it was raining. That's all for now, let me know what you guys think
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DO WERK!!
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Oh yea time to pull out the flux cord and JB weld hahah
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Oh yea time to pull out the flux cord and JB weld hahah
We're doing tig for the manifold O0 got the half that bolts to the head finished last night, hopefully today we can finish the turbo part. Looks like I might not have a drivers side high beam :mexi:
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The local exhaust shop has to order two 2" 90 degree pipes so hopefully those are here tomorrow. Here's what I was up to last night
(http://i44.tinypic.com/20z1kqb.jpg)
(http://i41.tinypic.com/zmfo0x.jpg)
Tacked together
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2n6u0yp.jpg)
(http://i41.tinypic.com/255nnn4.jpg)
The holes on the flange I got are crooked, so I should be getting a new one for free. I'll probably end up using this one though to be honest
(http://i44.tinypic.com/n5o1vo.jpg)
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What was the point of cutting the header up just to weld it back like it was?
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Round 2
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2j3rxx2.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/k4vz3b.jpg)
(http://i42.tinypic.com/2ibyltw.jpg)
(http://i40.tinypic.com/k4f6v8.jpg)
(http://i40.tinypic.com/eu56pd.jpg)
What was the point of cutting the header up just to weld it back like it was?
Compare the last two pictures and you can see how we removed an inch or two of pipe to make more room. Since this brought the pipes closer to the block, we also had to flip the flange where both pieces of the manifold bolt together so that flange didn't hit the block
I'm pretty happy with the outcome, the manifold sits closer to the intercooler than I anticipated so today I'll be cutting away at the bumper support and trying to figure out how the wastegate is going to fit in there
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I like where this going, and considering something similar on my Twincharge setup. :noel:
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I like where this going, and considering something similar on my Twincharge setup. :noel:
Thanks man O0
So I just started taking the turbo apart
(http://i42.tinypic.com/34f1fn8.jpg)
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2ilixpu.jpg)
Two of these fins are cracked
(http://i43.tinypic.com/2ir9xj.jpg)
(http://i42.tinypic.com/28ku82s.jpg)
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkzpzo.jpg)
(http://i44.tinypic.com/219z9d0.jpg)
So I guess my options are:
a.) rebuild it anyways and see what happens
b.) buy a new turbine shaft
c.) throw on the ebay turbo
If I go route a or c I'd probably just save up for a new turbo and put that on in the summer time, but let me know what you guys think
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clean it and throw it back together. put on the CRX.
my blown PTE turbo looked worse than that.
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clean it and throw it back together. put on the CRX.
my blown PTE turbo looked worse than that.
Ok will do
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Finally got the bumper to fit after lots of cutting, definitely sleeper O0
(http://i42.tinypic.com/2mfkdg3.jpg)
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Thats looking good, DO WORK!
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Thats looking good, DO WORK!
Thanks man, the turbo is pretty much rebuilt now just need to put each housing back on. Definitely a huge difference with the rebuild because now I have zero in and out play and just a hair side to side. Fabrication will resume Wednesday if everything goes as planned
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After trying to get the snapped off downpipe bolts out of the exhaust housing the screw extractor ended up snapping off, so I ordered a 2.5 v band kit and we'll see how welding that on goes. It looks like the intercooler piping isn't going to clear the radiator as originally planned so now it will go to the corner of the bay like most setups. Wastegate placement is also going to be interesting but I think I have it figured out
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WAT? Still no 4th gear rippers??!
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WAT? Still no 4th gear rippers??!
That'll probably still be a while; just ordered an innovative traction bar, ss downpipe and the flanges to make the wastegate v band as well. Hopefully this weekend I can install the traction bar and then figure out how the radiator is going to fit so the intercooler piping and downpipe can be fitted ;DDD
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WAT? Still no 4th gear rippers??!
Hopefully this weekend I can install the traction bar and then figure out how the radiator is going to fit so the intercooler piping and downpipe can be fitted ;DDD
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,2391.0.html (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,2391.0.html)
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WAT? Still no 4th gear rippers??!
Hopefully this weekend I can install the traction bar and then figure out how the radiator is going to fit so the intercooler piping and downpipe can be fitted ;DDD
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,2391.0.html (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,2391.0.html)
I love that idea but that's where my intercooler is going O0
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In front of the rad. There's room. And you won't have to cut your gill out.
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Dude Makes me want a sink trap but my welding skills lack your luster lol. What turbo you running I haven't gone back to earlier posts?
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In front of the rad. There's room. And you won't have to cut your gill out.
Yea I probably should have done a little more research before I decided to go the route I did but oh well, I'll definitely keep your idea in mind for when my brother goes turbo with his ef hatch
Dude Makes me want a sink trap but my welding skills lack your luster lol. What turbo you running I haven't gone back to earlier posts?
Hah thanks man and the turbo is a Garrett TA34, compressor .60 a/r and turbine .63 a/r
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Pics from rebuilding the turbo
(http://i62.tinypic.com/21exfud.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/jfkj8h.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/11uggif.jpg)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2eyzwbn.jpg)
Now hardly any shaft play
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2ag6mqf.jpg)
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Picked up this thing
(http://i58.tinypic.com/25grnz7.jpg)
Here's roughly where the intercooler will need to sit to give the manifold enough clearance, I'm going to wrap the bottom half on the manifold to help a little bit
(http://i59.tinypic.com/984rv6.jpg)
Middle
(http://i60.tinypic.com/15fpq29.jpg)
Side
(http://i62.tinypic.com/13yla1z.jpg)
Manifold mostly done, still needs wastegate flange welded on and I need to clean up the inside
(http://i60.tinypic.com/x5s1t0.jpg)
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Went over the welds to make it look pretty
(http://i61.tinypic.com/658txk.jpg)
Tried getting the snapped off bolts out but the screw extractor snapped off in the process, so tried welding a v band on there. The weld split down the middle as we thought it would so I need to get a propane torch to heat it up and then we'll try that again
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2zio2nc.jpg)
Parts coming in the mail:
-innovative traction bar
-v band conversion for the wastegate
-heat wrap and metal cable ties
-2 stainless 2.5" 90 degree pipes for the downpipe
That's all for now
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Metal cable ties are to baller. I use hose clamps.
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I used zip ties lol they never melted
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Metal cable ties are to baller. I use hose clamps.
truth.... but i obviously only use one per pipe. just wrap it tight at the start, then at the end toss a clamp on. :Jew:
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I found metal cable ties at Walmart dirt cheap
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Guess I need to start thinking more rhmt hah anyways looks like I'm going with ratcityrex's idea of the vw radiator because too much modification would be needed for my half rad. I'm pretty much going to make a little cage/skid plate to support and protect the intercooler because it's going to be out in front and sitting just as low as the traction bar. Here's the goods
Downpipe
(http://i58.tinypic.com/34pi26o.jpg)
Collector before
(http://i58.tinypic.com/kdo1aw.jpg)
Collector after, might clean it up a little more
(http://i62.tinypic.com/15xjv2e.jpg)
Traction bar
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2po8d8h.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/nxp5ae.jpg)
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Getting a rough idea of what I need to cut for the intercooler. The crossmember will have the middle section cut out and the styrofoam will need some trimming
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2s7j4ee.jpg)
Guy on ebay sent me the wrong size flange so hopefully I get the right one for free
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2vsra6g.jpg)
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Got this inline filler neck but didn't realize it was for a larger size rad cap, most likely I'll still use it though
(http://i58.tinypic.com/nozmgh.jpg)
Downpipe mocked up
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2djug3t.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/27y4rkm.jpg)
Might make a second one like this O0
(http://i59.tinypic.com/ju7p1j.jpg)
I was cleaning out the tech library at work, thought you guys would find this cool
(http://i59.tinypic.com/iwrwxt.jpg)
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Would it be better to use an intercooler like ratcityrex did or use the stock evo9 intercooler? I'm aiming for around 300hp, guess I could always make adjustments if I need a bigger intercooler down the road. I already have the evo intercooler but just looking for input since a ton of stuff will need cut for the evo intercooler to fit
(http://i62.tinypic.com/14kk7jl.jpg)
(http://i44.tinypic.com/2it3mgm.jpg)
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Rock the evo ic. It will have better airflow and not try and get as warm as mine did. Mine would like to push 200° while driving down the hwy. Mine blocked more air than let through.
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you could go with a str4 intercooler it would fit nice. Just don't get a 6" deep one lol
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DO WORK!
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you could go with a str4 intercooler it would fit nice. Just don't get a 6" deep one lol
Lol like the one I sold you? That thing is a fucking beast.
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fits perfect n the da don't think the ef bumper sticks out far enough.
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Rock the evo ic. It will have better airflow and not try and get as warm as mine did. Mine would like to push 200° while driving down the hwy. Mine blocked more air than let through.
Thanks for the heads up, looks like I'll be going with the evo intercooler
DO WORK!
I'll put up the pictures when I have time but I started working on the wastegate placement. I also got a piece of bar that should work well for mounting the intercooler; it'll be welded to the traction bar and then stick out towards the front.
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Should be fun once it is done!
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I really like this:
(http://i59.tinypic.com/27y4rkm.jpg)
I may be coping this for my Twincharge civic update. :noel:
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I really like this:
(http://i59.tinypic.com/27y4rkm.jpg)
I may be coping this for my Twincharge civic update. :noel:
Do it O0
Here's the mock-up of the wastegate placement
(http://i62.tinypic.com/16p3j5.jpg)
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You'd want the "teardrop" or radius of that WG tube to bend the other way, but ideally you'd have the WG on the front or back side of that collector to intersect both tubes. If it stays fully divided and you only intersect one of the up-pipes for the WG, you will end up with high backpressure on 2 of the cylinders and low backpressure on the other 2. On diesels it doesn't matter nearly as much.
You could also use 2 small tubes going straight up from the bottom horizontal tubes into a mini collector that is topped off with the WG. That would keep it fully divided.
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You'd want the "teardrop" or radius of that WG tube to bend the other way, but ideally you'd have the WG on the front or back side of that collector to intersect both tubes. If it stays fully divided and you only intersect one of the up-pipes for the WG, you will end up with high backpressure on 2 of the cylinders and low backpressure on the other 2. On diesels it doesn't matter nearly as much.
You could also use 2 small tubes going straight up from the bottom horizontal tubes into a mini collector that is topped off with the WG. That would keep it fully divided.
Thanks for the heads up. I had a feeling that would be an issue so I posted in the fabrication sub forum a little while back and someone told me it'd be fine ??? Oh well. I'll look at it tomorrow and see which option would be better and report back with the results
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Due to life this project went on the back burner but now I don't work weekends so I actually have some free time to work on this ;DDD I think it looks good considering it's made out of two eBay headers
(http://i59.tinypic.com/fv9zrd.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2gt7lg7.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/9bdhme.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/245eey0.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2efnlg7.jpg)
The vw rad isn't going to fit (I'm not mutilating my bumper, already cut the support in half as you can see) so I guess I'm going to rock the ebay rad, make a shroud and hope for the best
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My vw rad fit perfect without touching the rad.
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My vw rad fit perfect without touching the rad.
It'll fit if my intercooler (stock evo9) was an inch thinner but other than that I would have to cut the 'grille' which isn't an option
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It must be because your turbo manifold sticks out further than mine did. My vw rad tucked up perfect to the back of the hood latch support. How thick is a evo 9 ic? My ic was 2.75" thick.
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It must be because your turbo manifold sticks out further than mine did. My vw rad tucked up perfect to the back of the hood latch support. How thick is a evo 9 ic? My ic was 2.75" thick.
Not sure, I'll get some measurements this weekend if I remember. Yea this manifold setup is less than ideal, I kinda regret going down this route with the sinktrap style but I guess that's the whole point of rhmt so we'll see how it does. I'm interested to see if I have any issues with the recirculated wastegate since I've heard mixed things on that
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Started mocking up the intercooler piping
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2628uc9.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/214ayhx.jpg)
Roughly how the rad will sit
(http://i60.tinypic.com/s10yz8.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/6zujhf.jpg)
You can see there's no room for the vw rad
(http://i60.tinypic.com/dnh6hz.jpg)
For the line going to the wastegate, should I drill a hole and put a fitting here on the turbo? From what I understand there are certain benefits depending on where you tap into the pressure side between the turbo and the throttle body but I can't imagine I'm going to make enough power for it to matter
(http://i57.tinypic.com/fm6vrm.jpg)
Also from what I understand the top line on the bov will go to the intake manifold and I can put a t on the wastegate line that will go to the bottom line on the bov; can anyone confirm this?
(http://i57.tinypic.com/1yn01y.jpg)
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bottom one on the wastegate, i think the top on the bov. and i put then both to the intake manifold.
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Thanks for the info.
Dumb question but since I assume I just put a cap on one of the inlet sides? (green arrow)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/bgpf08.jpg)
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Correct
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Cap the outlet if you need ultimate pressure. :evil:
The wastegate's bottom port will go to either the turbo or the manifold. A manifold reference will lead to more consistent boost, a turbo reference will lead to consistent pressure ratio numbers - only good if you're near maxing out your turbo. The BOV needs to see boost & vacuum, so it needs to go to the manifold. You could tee into the WG line, but it's best to use a seperate vac manifold for bov/wg/gauge.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kDijUHNzuK4/U5NwPZIairI/AAAAAAAAAHs/1JgnwA17BGw/w800-h385-no/vacblock01lk5.jpg)
Everything else looks good so far. I'd recommend a lot of bracing, if not already done, to take the turbo's weight off of the china header.
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Thanks for the info guys. Currently there is no bracing & everything is pretty solid, without bracing am I asking to crack something?
This is how the engine was when I bought it, an obd1 b18a1
(http://i59.tinypic.com/28chymo.jpg)
This is how the coolant lines were ran
(http://i61.tinypic.com/9av409.jpg)
I had to swap my intake manifold due to using a different throttle body, and the new intake manifold is missing the coolant port shown with the red X. I currently have the coolant line hooked up to the fast idle valve as shown, but now I have an extra coolant port as shown by the arrow.
(http://i62.tinypic.com/330795x.jpg)
What's the best option here? Using the old intake manifold is not an option since the fast idle valve stuck out and hit the new throttle body (needed different throttle body for the obd1 style map sensor). Back when I bought my car it had the obd0 intake manifold on there but I don't remember how the coolant lines were routed.
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This is what I ended up doing with the extra coolant line
(http://i61.tinypic.com/msohf8.jpg)
For the bov would I be able to simply put the bottom hose like this since it just needs to see boost? Only reason I'm not sure is because it would be between the past the bov. The top line will go where the pcv hose was on the intake manifold
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2md2h6d.jpg)
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Over the weekend I got a few things done
- nxs boost controller, I had to get different fittings for the vacuum lines since the inside diameter was way smaller than the 1/4" fittings I'm using everywhere else (I also read somewhere not to use anything smaller than that). I also lost the ball somehow so I ordered a ceramic one
- got new gates fuel pressure hoses for the line going to the fpr and for the return line
- made a bracket for the fpr since the supplied bracket wasn't going to work that well
- got the basemap setup in crome pro, theoretically it's done other than making some final adjustments for fuel and then hopefully I'll be able to start the car without too many issues
- made a diy bead roller and used that where applicable, the bov section will be welded
- used carbide bits to clean up the inside of the manifold. The collector looks pretty bad inside even after cleaning it up but we'll see how it does O0
Main things I still need to do
- run oil lines
- tap a pan for the drain line
- figure out intercooler piping between the turbo and the intercooler (a few things will need cut)
- figure out the filter setup for the turbo inlet
- hook up & mount fpr
- weld mounts for radiator and intercooler
- try to get neptune tunerview 2 working (it was a nightmare the last time I messed with it)
- start it up
- put bunch of parts back on the car since it's been a parts car for the last year
- learn how to street tune
Any recommendations on what heat range spark plugs to start with? I'm also not really sure what to aim for as far as fuel pressure while it comes time to start it up, I know it'll need turned down a good bit. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow & post manifold pics in the fabrication thread
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The manifold is done & was put on a belt sander to smooth everything out that got warped from welding. The collector looks horrible so hopefully I don't have any boost creep issues
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2rfsy9z.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2rr2q93.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/suyh43.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/14eccn6.jpg)
Made these
(http://i61.tinypic.com/awyuit.jpg)
Bracket that came with fpr didn't fit so made this
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2yjpl4g.jpg)
Worked on this thing a good bit this weekend, it has about 60 miles on it right now. Once it's broken in he's going for 800 something around 44 psi iirc. It's a 6766 with a half filled block, blah blah you get the point
(http://i60.tinypic.com/ostjf5.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2je67wi.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/ixwj0j.jpg)
This weekend I'm hopefully going to try starting the crx, I ordered a new steering rack and some other stuff I need to finally get it on the road. If everything goes as planned then in a month or so I'll be ready to start street tuning
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800hp evo, but the crx still looks better!
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800hp evo, but the crx still looks better!
Idk if I'd say that, but it'll definitely be a sleeper!
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The sandwich plate doesn't fit very well, I had to angle it between these sensors because with the oil line pointed straight up it hit the coolant pipe, causing it to leak.
(http://i61.tinypic.com/sw8ck7.jpg)
I also installed a T fitting right there which is for my oil pressure gauge, I don't have any pictures but will get some next weekend.
For the feed line should I try running no oil restrictor and see how it goes? I have an oil restrictor laying around (.5mm iirc) but the threads appear to be the AN style while my oil feed line has a pipe thread "flare" style. I found a fitting at lowes that will fit right in between the turbo and the feed line so I figure it might be worth a shot, but I'm seeing a lot of mixed opinions on oil restrictors for journal bearing turbos.
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What size is your line? And what brand turbo are you using?
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What size is your line? And what brand turbo are you using?
The line is -4AN from what I understand -->http://www.ebay.com/itm/380387771694?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/380387771694?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
The turbo is a garrett and here are the specs
Turbocharger is Garrett model TA34
Compressor Stage
A/R 0.60
Trim 60
Wheel Dia 75.0mm
Wheel Type BCCW4
Turbine Stage
A/R 0.63
Trim 76
Wheel Dia 65.0mm
Wheel Type T3HF
The compressor map is good for about 530hp.
Turbocharger was produced in December of 2003 at our Mexicali Mexico plant.
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I would run a restrictor.
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I would run a restrictor.
Will do, I found a 1.5mm restrictor I forgot about and the threads matched right up with the line
Finally got the fpr mounted
(http://i58.tinypic.com/t0ov0k.jpg)
Jb weld action (there was another drain on this pan for a normal hose but I'm going to cap that off)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/14wudza.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2qd8yky.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/148nwi.jpg)
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was something wrong with the stock fpr? Stock fpr is good for a good bit of power.
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was something wrong with the stock fpr? Stock fpr is good for a good bit of power.
There was nothing wrong with it, but HiProfile recommended that I get a fpr to have more stable fuel pressures with his 900cc injectors. It does seem pretty idiotic considering this is only going to make 300hp, but I figured it's an investment since I plan on this making at least double that down the road
Running those oil lines was the only significant thing I had left to do with the engine so hopefully this thing will be running soon
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New dx rack from eBay since my rack got donated to a civic wagon O0 Also got some moog outer tie rods for this thing. My energy bushings also got donated to the wagon so I bought prothane bushings for the rack.
(http://i59.tinypic.com/29w3613.jpg)
Got the fpr hooked up
(http://i60.tinypic.com/htfh1y.jpg)
Other than that I put the oil pan back on and put the rear upper control arms back in (this thing has been a parts car lately). The only "big" projects left are getting the tunerview 2 to work and finish retro fitting it in the cluster, along with buying a small battery and relocating it in the lock box.
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So I just got done trying to start this thing
(http://i60.tinypic.com/23lbbkp.jpg)
It was thrown together quick and this wire that the arrow points to wasn't hooked up
(http://i58.tinypic.com/6rit5e.jpg)
When I went to start the car the cluster lights came on, and then when I went to start it I heard the fuel pump come on but then there was just a "pop" noise and all cluster lights went out. I tried to turn the key again and nothing happened at all.
Once we realized that this wire wasn't hooked up we tried it with it connected, but still nothing. So I figured we popped a fuse or something, checked all the fuses and everything is good. Everything in that black fusebox in the above pic is getting power so I'm thinking the ecu might be toast, but I didn't really look into that much since it was 1am when this happened. I'll be trying to diagnose this tomorrow so any input would be great.
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Check battery cables. I've seen a bad connection act similar to what you described. I don't know about the pop though.
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That's usually a loose connection and the initial arc when you try the starter pops.
Check all your power and ground connections.
Around 3 am last night we had the same issue with my buddies fresh built si. Key on everything perfect. The second he tried the starter pop and everything died. Had to wiggle the ground and it would do it again. Just ran a jumper cable from the trunk battery to the block and fired it
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Check battery cables. I've seen a bad connection act similar to what you described. I don't know about the pop though.
I think this is what happened since my ground was less than ideal and it was sparking randomly when I would try to start the car
That's usually a loose connection and the initial arc when you try the starter pops.
Check all your power and ground connections.
Around 3 am last night we had the same issue with my buddies fresh built si. Key on everything perfect. The second he tried the starter pop and everything died. Had to wiggle the ground and it would do it again. Just ran a jumper cable from the trunk battery to the block and fired it
Yea that kinda makes sense now that I think about it. The problem went away this morning but for the life of me I couldn't get it started. The car turns over every single time I try to start it but immediately shuts off. If I give it gas it'll run for a few seconds but it just spits and sputters, never runs smooth. I hooked up my ostrich with crome and tried adjusting some of the fuel numbers, but to be honest I have no idea what I'm really doing so I'll have to learn more about how to use crome
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Does anyone know where the iacv plug is on the engine harness? The only cel I have is for the iacv which I know is extremely important while trying to start this thing, and originally I didn't have it plugged in. I saw that the same part of the harness that goes on the back of the block for the alternator had a coolant sensor/plug that was the same, so I tried plugging that in but the code still didn't go away.
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careful plugging random plugs in as a few share the same plug.
Common mistakes melt the iat sensor or burn the purge transistor and blow a hole in the ecu board.
Can't go by plug location especially with a swap.
I grab a volt meter set to ring continuity and set one pin on the correct ecu pin. Then I probe the pins of each plug until I find a match.
I use this picture more than any other reference in my garage
(http://wikitest.pgmfi.org/twiki/pub/Library/WireHarness/OBD2to1ab2.jpg)
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careful plugging random plugs in as a few share the same plug.
Common mistakes melt the iat sensor or burn the purge transistor and blow a hole in the ecu board.
Can't go by plug location especially with a swap.
I grab a volt meter set to ring continuity and set one pin on the correct ecu pin. Then I probe the pins of each plug until I find a match.
I use this picture more than any other reference in my garage
(http://wikitest.pgmfi.org/twiki/pub/Library/WireHarness/OBD2to1ab2.jpg)
Thanks for the picture that's going to help tons
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It's shit like that I save and print. And then i put it up on the wall in my shop.
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It's shit like that I save and print. And then i put it up on the wall in my shop.
Same here, but in a binder. :noel:
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That plug I was guessing at was indeed the iacv, but now I have a solid check engine light so I'm not really sure what's going on.
Got this welded
(http://i62.tinypic.com/29w3mds.jpg)
As of now it's impossible for me to run a high beam bulb but I'm glad that a filter fits in there
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2il2bsp.jpg)
O0
(http://i60.tinypic.com/1z4ls0x.jpg)
I ended up getting it running but it was extremely rich (like 10 afr), tried messing with the tune but just ended up in the car not starting so I'll mess with it again next weekend
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2m5f8jn.jpg)
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Wow! awesome build! Good luck with getting the tune dialed in this weekend!! :noel:
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Looking good!
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I ended up getting it running but it was extremely rich (like 10 afr), tried messing with the tune but just ended up in the car not starting so I'll mess with it again next weekend
I know your semi local to me. How far are you from York? Did you add me on facebook? I dont work tomorrow, but i plan on swapping wheels, tb, pulling wideband, and pulling the flashpro tomorrow on my Accord. Also putting some interior back in the trunk. Accord is going back to stock. I might even be at Arts shop tomorrow. YCU Dyno Tuning Specialist in York.
If you added me on facebook send me a message again. My memory sucks.
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I ended up getting it running but it was extremely rich (like 10 afr), tried messing with the tune but just ended up in the car not starting so I'll mess with it again next weekend
I know your semi local to me. How far are you from York? Did you add me on facebook? I dont work tomorrow, but i plan on swapping wheels, tb, pulling wideband, and pulling the flashpro tomorrow on my Accord. Also putting some interior back in the trunk. Accord is going back to stock. I might even be at Arts shop tomorrow. YCU Dyno Tuning Specialist in York.
If you added me on facebook send me a message again. My memory sucks.
I'm in west york so yea I'm close to everything. I don't think I added you on facebook but I'll send you a pm
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I ended up getting it running but it was extremely rich (like 10 afr), tried messing with the tune but just ended up in the car not starting so I'll mess with it again next weekend
I know your semi local to me. How far are you from York? Did you add me on facebook? I dont work tomorrow, but i plan on swapping wheels, tb, pulling wideband, and pulling the flashpro tomorrow on my Accord. Also putting some interior back in the trunk. Accord is going back to stock. I might even be at Arts shop tomorrow. YCU Dyno Tuning Specialist in York.
If you added me on facebook send me a message again. My memory sucks.
I'm in west york so yea I'm close to everything. I don't think I added you on facebook but I'll send you a pm
Added you. You are definitely close since your in West York.
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Whats up guys it's been a while. I'm trying to start this thing but it keeps tripping the 100 amp circuit breaker I put in right next to the battery whenever I try to crank it. Any ideas?
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Pulling more than 100 amps trying to start?
Try bypassing the breaker.
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Time for my bi-annual update
Here's the jdm b20, it's a b20b iirc. Picked it up for $300 O0
I picked up the engine from jdm engine depot, so according to them it has somewhere around 60k on it. After doing a cylinder leakage test I discovered a valve in cylinder 4 that wasn't sealing completely. Ultimately I decided to just rip apart the engine even though I'm sure it would have ran just fine.
(http://i59.tinypic.com/55f38z.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/14cwdag.jpg)
When I had the engine apart I lapped the valves, honed the cylinders, installed new rings, and swapped over my arp head studs and rod bolts from the old engine.This is after I put the b20 back together.
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2jxs1t.jpg)
Heart transplant complete
(http://i59.tinypic.com/25itapf.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2d93dyw.jpg)
This is what it currently looks like
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2iu86co.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/1r6exi.jpg)
Right now I'm just trying to get it running properly. I have an xenocron basemap chip in the ecu because Crome was giving me issues and I really don't have time to mess with it. The engine started up first try but it sounded absolutely horrible, and after doing some digging it seems like I either put the timing belt on wrong or it jumped (I'm not sure which to be honest).
After I get it running right it needs an alignment, exhaust, and inspection. With the b20 being a little taller than the ls, my old exhaust doesn't seem like it'll fit so I'll have to figure out something for that. Once it's running properly then it'll probably be left alone for a while before going under the knife for turbo attempt #2 ;DDD
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Timing belt is very likely but so are the injectors. Toss in a set you know were working, since it probably sat in japan for a while with some fuel in those injectors. Have you checked timing with a gun yet? A few degrees can make a big difference.
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Timing belt is very likely but so are the injectors. Toss in a set you know were working, since it probably sat in japan for a while with some fuel in those injectors. Have you checked timing with a gun yet? A few degrees can make a big difference.
Thanks for the advice. I haven't checked the timing with a gun yet so I'll have to do that and try another set of injectors.
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Just swapped a set of known good injectors in the car and nothing changed. I didn't personally verify that the timing belt was good but my brother and friend checked it during the week and said that it was fine.
At this point I figured I'd just pull the chip out and see if it would run any different in limp mode. Started it up and it definitely sounded like it was running better so that's good. As of now the car is on stands so I can't test drive it, and it's open header so I'm still not entirely sure that it sounded normal in limp mode. I took videos of the startup with & without the chip in so I'll try to upload them sometime this week for reference.
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It sounds like it's running a little better without the chip but still hard to tell because there's no exhaust on it
Chip in (https://www.youtube.com/embed/XKWZsJ3SLx8)
Chip out (https://www.youtube.com/embed/Pm7uWi28cXs)
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What happened to the turbo?
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Give a quick run-down on injector size, FPR & fuel pump used, engine mods/boltons used. Have you tried a different ECU? Does the ECU give any codes or solid-CEL with or w/o the chip?
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What happened to the turbo?
I guess I forgot to mention that part haha. Basically after my first test drive up and down the road with the turbo it started knocking, so I tore it apart and the rod/crank bearings were all toast. Also found out I bent a rod, which I think is due to the tune being way too rich and more or less hydro-locking it. After this happened I just pulled the engine and put in the b20.
Give a quick run-down on injector size, FPR & fuel pump used, engine mods/boltons used. Have you tried a different ECU? Does the ECU give any codes or solid-CEL with or w/o the chip?
I have good news, turns out I was lied to and the timing belt did indeed jump. I wasn't there when the engine was started up the first time but it must have jumped then because everything was good when I put the belt on. It was off a tooth or two on the exhaust cam, but after fixing that it sounded like a normal running engine so that's good. The engine is still fresh, and I'm also waiting on a new brake caliper so I didn't get a chance to test drive it yet.
As of now it needs:
- rf brake caliper
- alignment
- exhaust fixed (ebay header makes my cat/exhaust not fit)
- inspection/emissions
- then round 2 with the turbo O0
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Your in pa, why not just get a tune from ycu?
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Your in pa, why not just get a tune from ycu?
Will he do a tune on crome?
I drove the car to get gas and then let it idle for a while but shut it off because the header was visibly turning red. Then I noticed the distributor was all the way retarded for some reason so I thought that was why.
Today after starting it up (still open header) I noticed the wideband was pegged at 'lean'. The engine was idling fine and there were no check engine lights on, so I'm not sure if this is accurate or not.
Is it possible that the afr sensor could have been damaged when my car was running so rich that it bent the rod?
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He might, would have to call him.
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If you have an open header and you have WBO2 near the collector of the header you will read very lean all the time except WOT. :noel:
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If you damaged the sensor from heat, it will just not read for shit. You'll have cracked the ceramic internals or melted a lead.
If your car runs lean enough to damage something, it would crack a valve, blow the head gasket, melt a piston, detonations, etc. You'd have to have pre-ignition to bend a rod, and that's unlikely at partial throttle - but not impossible.
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If you have an open header and you have WBO2 near the collector of the header you will read very lean all the time except WOT. :noel:
If you damaged the sensor from heat, it will just not read for shit. You'll have cracked the ceramic internals or melted a lead.
If your car runs lean enough to damage something, it would crack a valve, blow the head gasket, melt a piston, detonations, etc. You'd have to have pre-ignition to bend a rod, and that's unlikely at partial throttle - but not impossible.
Thanks for the info guys. I'm assuming that the distributor being off is what the problem was. In other news after I got the exhaust fixed at a local exhaust shop it still wasn't running right. It also started to overheat on my way to/from the exhaust shop, but turns out my lower rad clamp wasn't tight :-[
I put a new rf caliper on it so right now I just need to figure out what to do regarding tuning. After getting back from the exhaust shop I pulled the plugs and they were black so it's almost guaranteed that the wideband sensor is bad. I have another sensor but might just wait till after it gets tuned to put that on. Is there any point in trying to use the narrowband output on the wideband (plx dm6) for the tune? That's how I had it setup when the car was running n/a with the old ls engine. From what I understand some tuners disable the o2 sensor in the tune. Looks like I'll be getting it tuned at http://www.ycunderground.com/ (http://www.ycunderground.com/) hopefully sooner than later.
Once I pressure test the coolant system, button up a few things and get the alignment as close as I can at home it should theoretically be ready to get towed to the tuner. I would drive it to get aligned and then to the tuner but since it looks like it's running rich, I'd rather just do a fresh oil change and get it towed there. My logic is that way there's minimal chance for gas seeping down into the oil and ruining the bearings but maybe that's just me being ocd.
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The car finally got tuned - made 122 hp, I don't remember what the torque was. I really wasn't concerned with what it made, I just needed someone who knew what they were doing to tune the car. Art at ycu did a great job O0 The car hasn't been road worthy for over 2 years so it was nice to finally drive it again
https://www.youtube.com/embed/D4503EhKHf8 (https://www.youtube.com/embed/D4503EhKHf8)
After getting it tuned I snapped some pics with the daily
(http://i65.tinypic.com/286yrt.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/35bgt2x.jpg)
As of now I need to sort out a few little things but the engine seems to be running strong - it has roughly 100 miles on the rebuild so far and no major issues yet
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Man, good to hear. Long road but worth it. My b18a1 with 8.5:1 comp made 125hp on a stock obd1 ecu. So I would say your right in the rage if what it should be making.
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Man, good to hear. Long road but worth it. My b18a1 with 8.5:1 comp made 125hp on a stock obd1 ecu. So I would say your right in the rage if what it should be making.
Yea it's definitely been a long road but I'm glad to see it running. Hopefully within the next couple weeks I can figure out how to link my tunerview 2 screen with this eCtune and finish my cluster setup :)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/753a.jpg)
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Art is the man!
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Damn I must have been out of town... or sleeping.
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Good news, I sold this car to my little brother a year ago but in a few weeks will be buying it back.
As of now I have all my old turbo stuff but will be making a more legit turbo manifold. I'm also trying to decide what turbo to get, looking for something that'll support 600hp. Plans as of now are to go ls-vtec. I could use the b20 block in it right now but figured ls block would be safer and I have one already.
Current plans although I'm open to suggestions:
- eagle rods
- weisco pistons
- arp headstuds / rod bolts
- honda bearings
- either block filler / posting or css
- supertech valve springs and just lap the valves
- b16 head (already have it with blox intake manifold)
- use current cable ls trans and stage 5 action clutch
- use current 900cc HiProfile injectors
- use current fuel lab fpr to crank up fuel pressure
- currently have rewired 255 fuel pump, sure I'll need to upgrade this though
- some type of homemade catch can setup
- little brother is a welder so I'll have him make a new manifold and do all ic/exhaust welding
- need to pick a new intercooler since I doubt stock evo9 intercooler would be ideal
Jdm life
(http://i68.tinypic.com/im81up.jpg)
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5858 will get you to your power goal and spool super fast. Lose the supertech junk and you will be just fine.
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Lose the supertech junk and you will be just fine.
What would you recommend?
Just picked this up, a little big for the 600hp goal but might shoot higher so it should be fine
(http://i65.tinypic.com/k9yujk.jpg)
Borg warner s300sx3 - 66/73mm, twin scroll, t4 & .91 a/r
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sexy
My only complaint is ef bays get cramped fast, but i love my crx
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Over the past few weekends, we've worked on swapping the b20 over to my little brother's wagon. It was my first time doing the dpfi to mpfi conversion so that took a while to figure out but it started up first try with no check engine lights :) Right now the suspension is all apart but in the next few weeks that'll be finished and I can start working on the crx again
(http://i68.tinypic.com/1zp62wj.jpg)
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Alright, finally got this thing in the garage and started ordering parts
(http://i67.tinypic.com/29lbptt.jpg)
Parts on the way:
- action clutch twin disc
- used eagle ls rods / cp pistons 81.5mm 11:0 c/r
- 81.5mm hastings rings
- devcon for filling the block
- supertech valve springs
- -12 an fittings for valve cover
- arp head studs / rod bolts
- blue gates timing belt
- gsr water pump & oil pump
Going to be made:
- top mount divided t4 manifold
- either dual 38mm or 44mm wastegates
- straight 3†exhaust
- intercooler piping
Hoping you guys have some suggestions:
Is it ok to vent valve cover to exhaust? I know this is common in the big block world but it’s typically very close to where the exhaust exits the car. I really don’t want to deal with a catch can so would prefer to vent the valve cover and block to the exhaust (around where the cat would be) with -12 lines.
Ignition system: Cheapest way to support 7-800 hp without going coil over plug? I’ve looked into msd blaster coils and the like but don’t have any experience going down that route.
Which fuel pump(s) should I use? Was thinking about running a -8 feed line and then using the stock feed as a return. Planning on running e85 and going with bosch 2200cc injectors. A friend was kind enough to donate these to my build but I can buy something else if there isn’t an ideal combo here:
2 walbro 255’s
(http://i66.tinypic.com/24o0qwk.jpg)
Bosch 044
(http://i63.tinypic.com/ejzrj4.jpg)
DW 350iL
(http://i67.tinypic.com/s14uaf.jpg)
I was thinking both 255s and the 044 based on this chart:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/w06ov5.jpg)
What am I missing / what's the weak link for 7-800hp? I’m assuming the stock valves and stock cam/intake manifold need to go. Turbo is a Borg warner s300sx3 - 66/73mm, twin scroll, t4 & .91 a/r. From what I’ve seen in other build threads it should get me in that range.
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B16 head on top, GSR head on bottom
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2mydwzr.jpg)
GSR head
(http://i64.tinypic.com/6z69du.jpg)
Vintage AEM tru time cam gears
(http://i63.tinypic.com/292ns5k.jpg)
One thing that’s unfortunate about this GSR head are these grooves in the cam. Both cams have similar grooves, but I’m probably going to use it anyways
(http://i68.tinypic.com/5pg9k8.jpg)
Cracked retainer from the B16 head
(http://i64.tinypic.com/10wp8b9.jpg)
Inspecting everything
(http://i68.tinypic.com/281bw9l.jpg)
Rims/tires I’m trying to sell right now to get slicks and skinnies
(http://i64.tinypic.com/nbaiop.jpg)
Cut bumper support
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2vay4on.jpg)
OEM bumper with VW mk3 lip
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2myyg3q.jpg)
Took a dremel to the bumper
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2cogbpy.jpg)
Much better
(http://i65.tinypic.com/von9di.jpg)
Going to do a sheet metal front end like this
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2d8huv5.jpg)
Good representation of how much more room there will be
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2cmsyad.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/208k042.jpg)
eBay special 50mm BOV and 44mm wastegates. I did research on the yellow bullet forum and these seem to be pretty reliable for the v8 guys, so figured we'll give em a shot
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2by328.jpg)
4 port boost solenoid
(http://i64.tinypic.com/xmu5jt.jpg)
Action twin disc
(http://i63.tinypic.com/j8mqt2.jpg)
Glad that I'm finally starting to get somewhere 8)
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my ebay44mm was a total pos. it works but none of the clamps fit right and leak. The nut holding the top on was total shit. the valve or the valve seat was too short to seal. good thing i can weld and machine.
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my ebay44mm was a total pos. it works but none of the clamps fit right and leak. The nut holding the top on was total shit. the valve or the valve seat was too short to seal. good thing i can weld and machine.
Dang yea hopefully I have better luck
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Sweet progress and shiny parts!
Which head are you going with? GSR? I'll take the other one, will give you peanuts for it :Jew:
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Where di you get those rims I'm looking for a set? :noel:
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Sweet progress and shiny parts!
Which head are you going with? GSR? I'll take the other one, will give you peanuts for it :Jew:
Thanks! I'm going with the GSR head, already have a friend that's going to buy the b16 head
Where di you get those rims I'm looking for a set? :noel:
They're 15x7 Kosei K1's, I got them off tirerack
https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=KR17S&wheelMake=Kosei&wheelModel=K1+Racing&wheelFinish=Silver+Painted&autoMake=Honda&autoModel=CRX&autoYear=1991&autoModClar= (https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=KR17S&wheelMake=Kosei&wheelModel=K1+Racing&wheelFinish=Silver+Painted&autoMake=Honda&autoModel=CRX&autoYear=1991&autoModClar=)
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perfect, I had a set but I sent them with CRX I trade with Trevor and are still with CRX after he died in Wisconsin. :'(
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Really coming along!
I have had 2 china 44mm gates on the crx for the last 5 years. I recently had a vs racing 44mm in my hands and they are a world better.
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Really coming along!
I have had 2 china 44mm gates on the crx for the last 5 years. I recently had a vs racing 44mm in my hands and they are a world better.
That's definitely reassuring O0
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Haven't really done anything lately to the car, just wasting money
Took the block to the car wash
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2jb5ypz.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2utru2o.jpg)
Bought 2" insulation foam
(http://i68.tinypic.com/9uan87.jpg)
Wrapped it in saran wrap :Jew:
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2lacvhk.jpg)
Ready to ship to css
(http://i67.tinypic.com/xlguhv.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2igy80j.jpg)
Less than 2 weeks later
(http://i64.tinypic.com/xmsv2r.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2vmfwiq.jpg)
Still need to get it decked, not sure if I'm going to bore/hone it yet
(http://i68.tinypic.com/vcvtsp.jpg)
Eagle rods with 10:1 wiseco pistons
(http://i68.tinypic.com/dllxj7.jpg)
I didn't know when I bought this and forgot to take pictures, but this intake manifold is set up for 8 injectors. I'll have to figure out how to plug the other 4 holes, they're on the bottom of the runners. Guy basically got it powdercoated and then never did anything with it.
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2a7c4rk.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2nth72u.jpg)
15x3.5 Lensos
(http://i63.tinypic.com/29xeky8.jpg)
Motorcycle tires because yolo
(http://i66.tinypic.com/28vr6fa.jpg)
They still have rain grooves so I'm not worried about it. Didn't feel like running skinnies, and the only other option from what I could find was a special continental tire made for the smart car
(http://i64.tinypic.com/beuic4.jpg)
eBay dizzy, accel coil and honda icm. I don't feel like going cop, guess we'll see how well this works before going with a digital 6 box
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2nb7fhv.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/rm6615.jpg)
My little brother's wagon that has my old b20 (stock with arp head studs & rod bolts)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/169pa3l.jpg)
Making his first manifold
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2eg8qxy.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2l9jsew.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2i0vif.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/mjmv4k.jpg)
Rocking the 50 trim eBay turbo I got for $50
(http://i64.tinypic.com/345euq9.jpg)
Making room for the intercooler
(http://i64.tinypic.com/35nd7ie.jpg)
Stock evo intercooler
(http://i67.tinypic.com/28slkpt.jpg)
If all goes well this weekend we'll finish up the wagon and have Art at YCU tune it. Stay tuned
-
You can plug the injector holes with freeze plugs from the local parts store. Just measure and lookup part numbers online before you go in.
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Haven't really done anything lately to the car, just wasting money
Took the block to the car wash
Bought 2" insulation foam
Wrapped it in saran wrap :Jew:
Ready to ship to css
Less than 2 weeks later
Still need to get it decked, not sure if I'm going to bore/hone it yet
Eagle rods with 10:1 wiseco pistons
I didn't know when I bought this and forgot to take pictures, but this intake manifold is set up for 8 injectors. I'll have to figure out how to plug the other 4 holes, they're on the bottom of the runners. Guy basically got it powdercoated and then never did anything with it.
15x3.5 Lensos
Motorcycle tires because yolo
They still have rain grooves so I'm not worried about it. Didn't feel like running skinnies, and the only other option from what I could find was a special continental tire made for the smart car
eBay dizzy, accel coil and honda icm. I don't feel like going cop, guess we'll see how well this works before going with a digital 6 box
My little brother's wagon that has my old b20 (stock with arp head studs & rod bolts)
Making his first manifold
Rocking the 50 trim eBay turbo I got for $50
Making room for the intercooler
Stock evo intercooler
If all goes well this weekend we'll finish up the wagon and have Art at YCU tune it. Stay tuned
Not gonna lie, it move a little...
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You can plug the injector holes with freeze plugs from the local parts store. Just measure and lookup part numbers online before you go in.
Good call, thanks for the heads up
Not gonna lie, it move a little...
It's slowly getting there. Hoping to have it finished by summer at least :)
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how did the wagon do?? I left early to go do something. I forgot to ask Art.
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Wagon made 230, I don't remember torque. Had a handful of issues so working through those right now. When it gets brought back for a retune it'll have the vtec head on it, not sure if he's going to build the block or not.
Right now I'm trying to figure out what I'm doing with my engine so I can send it to the machine shop, should have some updates sooner than later.
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Just dropped my block off at the machine shop to get bored and decked. I asked if they could repair my head but they said no - see pics below. What do you guys think, sand down the grooves and send it or buy a new head?
(http://i68.tinypic.com/ztucqu.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/15qqav5.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/x6lxsi.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2r7oe2o.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/iz17gz.jpg)
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looks trashed
-
looks trashed
^this^
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I don't think there's any way to fix it that's going to be cheaper than buying a new head
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I was afraid of that - guess it's time to look for a new head.
I've collected quite a few parts so I'll have to take pics and upload them when I get a chance
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Started rebuilding the trans. Used a bunch of engine degreaser and a power washer to clean the case.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/11c8g3a.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2qk40pg.jpg)
Syncrotech master carbon rebuild kit
(http://i63.tinypic.com/os60m1.jpg)
MFactory 5th gear cuff installed
(http://i66.tinypic.com/23u79y0.jpg)
Shims that came with the cuff
(http://i63.tinypic.com/148m138.jpg)
Shims not installed
(http://i63.tinypic.com/so8kz7.jpg)
Shims installed
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2vneu87.jpg)
Doesn't seem like it matters if the shims are installed or not, since the only things above that are bearings and the nut on the top of the countershaft. The only thing the shims do is move the top of the nut up or down so I'm not really concerned about it, probably just not going to use them. I'll try to call MFactory though just to confirm.
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The top bearing on the counter shaft has a groove that a snap ring in the case snaps into. If the shims move where that bearing is it will move where the entire counter shaft rides.
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That is a very good point, thanks for pointing that out I definitely wasn't thinking of that.
I got the diff bearings on but broke the speedometer gear while putting that on, so I'll have to search for a new one now
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Well just got off the phone with MFactory, the two thick shims go on the bottom of the bearing on the countershaft and the thin one goes on the top. Glad they included instructions ::)
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Well couldn't find just the speedometer gear since Honda doesn't sell that part separate from the diff, so had to get a new diff to pull the gear off of. Ended up taking it to a machine shop and it came right off and went on the new diff with an oxy acetylene torch. I'm currently having issues with the main shaft, with everything on the bearing on the top is a few millimeters too high, causing the case to not sit flush when I try to put everything together. I took everything apart a few different times but still not having luck, so I'm kind of stuck at the moment. Next on the list is assembling the block and head.
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I'm currently having issues with the main shaft, with everything on the bearing on the top is a few millimeters too high, causing the case to not sit flush when I try to put everything together.
Make sure you dont have any of the hubs or sliders upside down.
The honda manual is good for giving exploaded views that point out tapers and grooves for orientation
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I'm currently having issues with the main shaft, with everything on the bearing on the top is a few millimeters too high, causing the case to not sit flush when I try to put everything together.
Make sure you dont have any of the hubs or sliders upside down.
The honda manual is good for giving exploaded views that point out tapers and grooves for orientation
Thanks for the heads up. I'm using a 5th gear cuff so I'm not sure if that's the issue or not, I'll have to look further into it.
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Small update
eBay fuel rail
(http://i64.tinypic.com/qrx7nr.jpg)
Holes for second row of injectors
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2hocuma.jpg)
Freeze plugs, NAPA ended up having them in their machine shop. Coated them in blue loctite and ran them in them in the whole way
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2u6n3no.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/6joqqc.jpg)
Started taking apart the head, going to lap the valves and reassemble
(http://i65.tinypic.com/i69lwg.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2jbl1zk.jpg)
Started sumping the tank
(http://i66.tinypic.com/6y328z.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2e67ker.jpg)
Stay tuned
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Had some issues welding the tank, ended up needing smaller filler rod and a smaller cup. Isn't quite finished but should be shortly
(http://i67.tinypic.com/21o9a9l.jpg)
Started assembling the block, with honda bearings everything looked good on the plastigauge
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2yttdso.jpg)
Used a rod bolt stretch gauge, ended up torquing them to 54 pounds to get in the middle of the desired stretch (.006"). It's higher than the recommended 45-50 pounds but I'm not surprised given I was using a harbor freight torque wrench with a questionable history.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2hghaip.jpg)
Put the fittings on for venting the block and plugged the black box hole
(http://i64.tinypic.com/xej5th.jpg)
Rods & pistons in, rods were also good with the plastigauge
(http://i67.tinypic.com/igexcm.jpg)
Started using a punch to get the valve guides out but it broke while getting the third out since I didn't have it flush with the guide. Waiting for a new one to come in the mail so I can finish that up.
In other news, my brother's wagon using my old garrett turbo is just about ready for the dyno
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2e0jt02.jpg)
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Honda oil pump, water pump, tensioner, rear main, etc.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2mez6lc.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/14y7rmc.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/18de6e.jpg)
Punched out old valve guides
(http://i63.tinypic.com/11invck.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2uhwfuf.jpg)
The only reason I put new valve guides in is that two of them looked like this:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/1zxqpg8.jpg)
Bronze ferrea valve guides installed
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2cohavo.jpg)
H22 clutch reservoir cut and welded to change the mounting angle
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2ngael2.jpg)
Had to order this 90 degree banjo fitting due to clearance issues
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2dkekw1.jpg)
Added vtec to the ecu
(http://i64.tinypic.com/qox5bl.jpg)
Tucked driver's side headlight harness
(http://i66.tinypic.com/1058g7o.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2coss8y.jpg)
Removed the evaporator
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2d6s2yp.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/wjgffc.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/beuioh.jpg)
After removing the evaporator I reinstalled the empty box
(http://i68.tinypic.com/5e8m0o.jpg)
A/C harness
(http://i68.tinypic.com/29oq1ib.jpg)
Tucking passenger side headlight and fuse box harness
(http://i63.tinypic.com/345j7r7.jpg)
Tucked wiper motor harness
(http://i64.tinypic.com/118hv9z.jpg)
Everything sectioned and necessary wires extended
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2cwr820.jpg)
Headlight and fuse box harness pushed back through the firewall
(http://i65.tinypic.com/16b0mcm.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2mmh5bd.jpg)
To be continued
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Looks good. I remember doing my tuck and saying to myself this is the dumbest thing I've ever decided to do to a car. But it sure looked nice when it was done.
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Looks good man
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Wiring continued
(http://i68.tinypic.com/25tjpea.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/n9gmf.jpg)
Leaving this fender off for now because I still need to run the battery wiring
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2il281e.jpg)
This is going to change because I'm probably mounting the msd box is this area too
(http://i64.tinypic.com/10f16dx.jpg)
Ready to go in
(http://i64.tinypic.com/332qszm.jpg)
Even with the 90 degree fitting I still had to do a good bit of hammering for it to fit properly
(http://i64.tinypic.com/rlcdmx.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/o88nep.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/15ga3af.jpg)
Put back together
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2a6qssl.jpg)
Ended up having to redo this
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2r6ntdz.jpg)
There wasn't enough room in between the tank and bungs to get good welds
(http://i64.tinypic.com/wgulnp.jpg)
Round 2
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2znv9k6.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/33oo64i.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2nsun0w.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2yukmmq.jpg)
Still need to weld on a -8 bung for the return so just used primer for now
(http://i67.tinypic.com/219v48y.jpg)
Stock fuel lines out
(http://i67.tinypic.com/k13pyf.jpg)
Previous owner used this as a db drag car ::)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2nldcfm.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/282n9g3.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2q3n97d.jpg)
Ultimately used 40 pounds of dry ice. If there wasn't any dynamat the stock sound deadening would probably come out with 5 or 10 pounds.
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2q3n97d.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/sl5jps.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/vqpixg.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/29zt1lg.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/axohnc.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/34nnvjr.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/intpph.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2pq7wwo.jpg)
This is 40 pounds, when it's said and done it'll be closer to 50
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2vn4dnk.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/14r3fl.jpg)
Painted filler neck and cover
(http://i68.tinypic.com/27wvexx.jpg)
Hopefully this weekend I can finish removing the sound deadening and get the interior painted / put back together
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Removing dynamat continued
Rust spots after the wire wheel
(http://i66.tinypic.com/1gf1k.jpg)
Primer & paint
(http://i67.tinypic.com/qnpf75.jpg)
I'm not sure what this blue stuff is, seems like a spray on rhino lining type of thing. It came off slowly if you chipped at it but after my third trip to get dry ice it was good enough for me
(http://i68.tinypic.com/10xbwb9.jpg)
Floor & trunk all painted
(http://i64.tinypic.com/j65wrs.jpg)
Carpet and rear interior partially back together
(http://i68.tinypic.com/212hjet.jpg)
Added a -8 bung for the return
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2qs3p6u.jpg)
Painted it
(http://i65.tinypic.com/hsjlo4.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/bfgbkg.jpg)
Put this craft foam on the top to prevent noise. I put a bolt where the stock feed banjo goes and bent the return tube shut on both sides
(http://i66.tinypic.com/dqn0qu.jpg)
Picked the head up last Friday, they checked it for flatness & it's good just has some knicks in it here and there. Valve guides are reamed out, should be ready to put back together now
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Added a banjo to ¼†barb fitting for the breather
(http://i65.tinypic.com/nbzq4l.jpg)
Used an eg evap valve
(http://i67.tinypic.com/5v183c.jpg)
Tank in
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2nsnfyo.jpg)
Pumps & pre-filters
(http://i66.tinypic.com/32zkva8.jpg)
Couldn’t find a great spot to easily mount the fuel pumps so ended up making this bracket. It goes right between the tank and driver’s side rear trailing arm
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2q1dlwx.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2eq6jat.jpg)
After primer and paint
(http://i67.tinypic.com/33a3o8g.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/6ibb4j.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/20pr6ll.jpg)
Mocked up
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2nqrsqo.jpg)
Starting to run the lines
(http://i67.tinypic.com/nqti4y.jpg)
Used this grommet from the stock fuel lines to run the power wires to the fuel pumps
(http://i65.tinypic.com/5al46o.jpg)
Area behind the glovebox
(http://i68.tinypic.com/34sno9g.jpg)
Riveted some 16-gauge steel I had to it
(http://i63.tinypic.com/21djriu.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/px3br.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/nmyo1w.jpg)
Mocked up minus the fuel pump relays
(http://i68.tinypic.com/28i502h.jpg)
Wiring everything up
(http://i65.tinypic.com/23h40mh.jpg)
Mostly finished
(http://i67.tinypic.com/732n0i.jpg)
This is how I wired up the pumps, used a delay relay set to 2 seconds for the second fuel pump
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2cfd34h.jpg)
Stock ls distributor
(http://i64.tinypic.com/t5k5xi.jpg)
Coil removed
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2q19zt0.jpg)
Wiring it up for the external coil
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2mfjded.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2v0g7df.jpg)
Stock coil vs blaster hvc coil
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2r70s4g.jpg)
This is how I wired up the MSD, still need to figure out where I want to mount the new coil
(http://i64.tinypic.com/delva.jpg)
Primer & paint for the coolant tube on the back on the block
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2s6kdgg.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2ufd94g.jpg)
Bought some Ferrea 6000 valves & dropped the head off at the machine shop for a valve job. While I’m waiting for the head to be finished I’ll be wrapping up the fuel lines and wiring
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Picked up the head from the machine shop, got a 3 angle valve job & head was decked .004"
(http://i64.tinypic.com/1z57ock.jpg)
Ferrea 6000 valves, bronze valve guides & keepers
Supertech 85 lb springs and steel retainers
Blox lma
(http://i65.tinypic.com/nph1lh.jpg)
Made a bracket to move the proportioning valve to the firewall
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2hh2lw8.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/28jvxi.jpg)
Primer
(http://i68.tinypic.com/10dv4eg.jpg)
Paint
(http://i68.tinypic.com/34448d3.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/1taj4n.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/29gn37k.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/6icvvd.jpg)
While making more fuel line ended up snapping this fitting, currently waiting on another one
(http://i67.tinypic.com/15fm8uw.jpg)
This is the section I was tightening, it was the adapter from one of the fuel pump outlets to -10 an
(http://i68.tinypic.com/4gkr37.jpg)
Making a mount for the coil
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2i1e9s1.jpg)
My brother is a welder, he wasn't home so I used his mig. It's pretty obvious I have no idea what I'm doing O0
(http://i64.tinypic.com/15noz1e.jpg)
After Grinder
(http://i64.tinypic.com/kb6tue.jpg)
Primer
(http://i64.tinypic.com/121wq6p.jpg)
Paint
(http://i66.tinypic.com/24czgc2.jpg)
All bolted & wired up. I tried using the top left stud for the ecu but ended up just making a hole where that stud was and using a bolt & nut. You can't see it but the ground for the coil is directly under it which just grounds the coil to the bracket/body
(http://i68.tinypic.com/r24ymu.jpg)
Drilled out the rivets for the valve cover baffling
(http://i63.tinypic.com/300wsn6.jpg)
Used a m6x1 tap so I can use bolts to put it back together. I'll be using red loctite
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2uqipoo.jpg)
Used a carbide bit to grind down two bolt holes on the front of the valve cover. I forgot to take a finished picture
(http://i63.tinypic.com/259lpi1.jpg)
Before
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2hmq7tj.jpg)
During
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2iau9zk.jpg)
After
(http://i64.tinypic.com/hx6ulg.jpg)
I'll get some better pictures but I ended up using an aluminum 3/4" tube for making the holes
Next on my list is getting this valve cover welded up, finish some wiring and then messing with the engine
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Small update - worked on the valve cover bungs
(http://i66.tinypic.com/6glrgg.jpg)
Welded on the inside and out
(http://i63.tinypic.com/rk24ue.jpg)
Forgot to get a picture before the jb weld but just used this to make it look a lot better
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2zqrazr.jpg)
One down, one to go. Used a file and then 150 grit to clean it up. Still has a little bit to go before it's ready for paint
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2j2fgna.jpg)
I bought this for $5, intended on putting this on top of the steering column piece as that's where I want the gauges
(http://i68.tinypic.com/f2r0io.jpg)
After some trimming, it was clear that it was still going to block way too much of the center of the gauge cluster. This is an issue because I'm ultimately going to place the tunerview display here
(http://i64.tinypic.com/witu9e.jpg)
It also looks like this gauge pod would have a similar issue albeit not as bad
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2870pbt.jpg)
I ended up going this route, notched out the upper corners and then jb welded the gauges to the top steering column piece
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2hq6zy9.jpg)
For the time being, I'm temporarily mounting the tunerview where the radio was. Here's making the plastic cover for it
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2vj4eis.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2n741o7.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/ilj38n.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2chszsj.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/mi14s8.jpg)
I think it turned out alright
(http://i64.tinypic.com/35m2lps.jpg)
Finished cleaning up the wiring to the battery and front of the bay. Still need to make or purchase a battery mount, going with a pc680 style battery
(http://i66.tinypic.com/a1u2xx.jpg)
Just received this from tristate
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2uiyz5c.jpg)
Current wiring situation
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2bsjmu.jpg)
Almost finished, I still need to wire up my oil pressure sensor, fuel pressure sensor and flex fuel sensor. Sent my cams out for the delta 272 regrind and ordered stuff to degree the cams, once all of that arrives I can start measuring clearances and putting the head together
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Dope! Looks good
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Dope! Looks good
Thanks man
Painted the bay this past weekend
(http://i63.tinypic.com/11i1t8z.jpg)
Scuffed everything with a scotch brite pad. I didn't go too crazy trying to make it perfect as someday I'll probably shave the bay, just wanted to clean it up for now
(http://i64.tinypic.com/dtddz.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2n86dyo.jpg)
Two coats of rustoleum primer
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2jbqyk3.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2e1vlhk.jpg)
First two coats of rustoleum gloss white
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2lkbb4w.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/x1x0tu.jpg)
This is after the third coat but I ended up doing four in total
(http://i67.tinypic.com/33xfv68.jpg)
I ordered some spraymax 2k clear so this weekend I can finish it up
Made a cardboard template for the catch can, it'll go where the windshield washer reservoir was
(http://i64.tinypic.com/xau6a.jpg)
The side against the car has this notch in order to sit flat
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2mf17w4.jpg)
Got some kirkeys, still waiting on the seat covers
(http://i67.tinypic.com/15fi0wy.jpg)
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love the kirkeys O0
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FUCK havent check in, in a long time; and this car has come a LONG way. Solid work! :noel:
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love the kirkeys O0
Ty :) My stock driver's side seat was pretty beat up with a bunch of metal/foam showing so figured it was time to bite the bullet and get these
FUCK havent check in, in a long time; and this car has come a LONG way. Solid work! :noel:
Thanks man, it's getting there little by little. 2019 should be a good year
Not much progress lately with Christmas & New Years but here's some pics anyways
Seat covers came in the mail
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2czbyf8.jpg)
Installed a gates 170 degree thermostat
(http://i66.tinypic.com/jsip80.jpg)
My front rims came in the mail, 15x10 with 5.5" backspacing. I need to clean up some of the weld splatter on them before getting them powdercoated
(http://i67.tinypic.com/25upkxf.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2v17m8l.jpg)
Finally got around to clear coating the bay
(http://i63.tinypic.com/r1zol1.jpg)
Came out pretty good, far from perfect but I'm happy with it
(http://i64.tinypic.com/21vnn6.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/28wl6aq.jpg)
GM flex fuel sensor with 8 an fittings
(http://i65.tinypic.com/24gvfpl.jpg)
Here's the ground for the flex fuel sensor and oil pressure gauge
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2rmxd6r.jpg)
This is my 12v source at ignition on and run for the boost controller and oil pressure gauge
(http://i63.tinypic.com/69j5mu.jpg)
Removing more dynamat
(http://i64.tinypic.com/5l2i43.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2gt5gua.jpg)
Didn't get a picture after it was removed from the door panel but you get the idea. If I get bored I'll end up doing the passenger's side door as well
(http://i66.tinypic.com/30ng13o.jpg)
Finished welding the an fittings on the valve cover. They were welded on both the outside and inside to make sure they're solid
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2z83fhi.jpg)
I originally wanted to use m6x1 10mm bolts to bolt down the baffle but it didn't end up working as well as I anticipated. Ultimately I ended up using 3/16" x 1/4" aluminum rivets, I was a little skeptical at first but it ended up being really solid. Hondabond was used in between the baffle and the valve cover. You can see some of the holes are missing rivets, this is due to those holes being too shallow for the rivets (wasn't enough material to drill the holes any deeper)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/dr5tg6.jpg)
Here's the valve cover as of now, I'm going to use some normal jb weld epoxy to fill in the small pits that I currently have. I used the jb weld 'steelstik' which is basically a 2 part putty for everything so far. I've seen mixed things about powder coating over jb weld so I'll see if my powder coater is comfortable with it or not. If not I'll probably just spray paint it
(http://i65.tinypic.com/30rsi0p.jpg)
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Got my Delta 272 cams back
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2dt39dg.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2gsjzpk.jpg)
New toy
(http://i65.tinypic.com/118gjut.jpg)
Had to replace a connector for all the wires I added going to the ECU
(http://i64.tinypic.com/3127gb9.jpg)
Cracked climate control
(http://i64.tinypic.com/nweq34.jpg)
Jb welded it back together and then put this plate on it
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2d7sbok.jpg)
Thicc
(http://i66.tinypic.com/einitt.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/11l7czb.jpg)
Used some normal jb weld to fill in the small holes/imperfections (used jb weld steelstik originally). Still need to sand it down
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2v9vg1v.jpg)
Didn't take any pictures but also got the mig splatter off the 15x10 rims. Mainly just used a chisel to chip the splatter off and then sanded it smooth. Front & rear rims are packed up ready for powdercoating, now just need to finish the valve cover
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This is good motivation for me to get my crx going again!
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This is good motivation for me to get my crx going again!
Good to hear man O0
It’s been a little while but here’s what I’ve been up to
Measured the valve to valve clearances
(http://i65.tinypic.com/r21302.jpg)
Have plenty of room for adjustment
(http://i66.tinypic.com/244a34j.jpg)
Had to file down a washer to get the degree wheel to fit properly
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2lurluv.jpg)
Installed bbs to lock vtec, used check valve springs, and bent a coat hanger to reference against the degree wheel. After putting the timing belt on and setting up the dial indicators I degreed the cams and measured piston to valve clearances
(http://i68.tinypic.com/34pkpdz.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2ppbsjq.jpg)
I've seen various figures on what's considered safe minimum p2v clearance but even going conservative with a minimum .100 or .080 still allows for plenty of room to play with cam adjustment. Degreeing them put it at -1, -1 which seems reasonable given the decked head & block
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2eo8cqh.jpg)
Then I started putting together the head, OEM valve seals
(http://i63.tinypic.com/17et94.jpg)
Supertech 85 lb springs, supertech steel retainers, blox lmas
(http://i63.tinypic.com/n4idev.jpg)
Ferrea 6000 std valves and ferrea keepers
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2zoyveg.jpg)
Head ready to bolt down
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2ykb3ol.jpg)
RHMT
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2ep2elc.jpg)
ARP headstuds
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2elz3ft.jpg)
Bolted down
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2ceqo6.jpg)
Delta 272 cams
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2hg7415.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/b683s7.jpg)
Redoing the valve cover
(http://i63.tinypic.com/j650js.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/amp98o.jpg)
Not perfect but it’ll do
(http://i67.tinypic.com/20rld7p.jpg)
New timing belt covers & gaskets
(http://i68.tinypic.com/f42zvo.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/5uigkg.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2a7h7nt.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/i6l72r.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/142fpc0.jpg)
I accidentally got the wrong bottom cover so had to shave the bottom a little bit. It doesn’t sit flush against the oil pump at the bottom but close enough
(http://i64.tinypic.com/1zxbfox.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2dlumps.jpg)
Covers on
(http://i68.tinypic.com/246uwz5.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2hhzns9.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/1216hhe.jpg)
Started working on my transmission again, the youtube video I was following had the orientation of the 3/4 hub & slider upside down, causing everything on the mainshaft to be off a little bit. The case ultimately was maybe 2 or 3mm from closing
(http://i63.tinypic.com/359dds8.jpg)
You can see the bearing on the mainshaft isn't down the whole way
(http://i64.tinypic.com/1zdm7pk.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2nuis2a.jpg)
The hub & slider being upside down caused this needle bearing to be off, hence pushing up everything on the mainshaft
(http://i66.tinypic.com/11udtep.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/x0xmkp.jpg)
Took everything apart and cleaned it since it’s been sitting for maybe 6 months or so
(http://i63.tinypic.com/bhlshe.jpg)
All back together, replaced the 5th gear cuff mainshaft bearing as it was a little rough
(http://i65.tinypic.com/16bhi60.jpg)
I still need to find the c-clip that holds the countershaft to the case and the axle seals but it’s almost finished
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2ho8qr8.jpg)
Skunk2 70mm throttle body
(http://i63.tinypic.com/xeqvj4.jpg)
Installed with a thermal gasket
(http://i68.tinypic.com/vh9wfn.jpg)
Speedfactory 4bar map sensor
This is how it’s sitting right now
(http://i63.tinypic.com/dgoxh4.jpg)
Currently waiting on new vtec solenoid gaskets and need to find the transmission seals that I have somewhere. Hopefully in the next few weeks I’ll be able to get the motor and trans dropped in so I can finish wiring the engine bay and start working on the turbo setup. Planning on a divided top mount manifold
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I don't need this coolant port anymore
(http://i64.tinypic.com/6ius0o.jpg)
Welded it shut
(http://i63.tinypic.com/205b62r.jpg)
Don't need this small one on the top either
(http://i64.tinypic.com/28bcf3o.jpg)
Only the port nipple itself was steel, the rest is aluminum. Forgot to get an after picture but it doesn't look good. It's watertight though which is all that I really care about
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2m2jitz.jpg)
Starting to look like an engine. Mocked up the fuel filter, fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator and injectors. Ended up ordering some fittings I'll need to complete the fuel lines but it's looking good overall
(http://i65.tinypic.com/313g2vm.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/1wuwz.jpg)
Ordered a new distributor connector because this one is toast
(http://i64.tinypic.com/9a5qbn.jpg)
New vtec solenoid gaskets
(http://i65.tinypic.com/255m6tu.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2lszle8.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/annasi.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/11j7n8h.jpg)
I ordered new axle seals for the transmission, should be able to bolt together the case this weekend. Once that's finished just need to put on the twin disc and drop it in. I ordered a bunch of pipe for the turbo manifold which should be here next weekend as well
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fucking magestic
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Nice!! :noel:
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Thanks guys :)
Finishing up the transmission with new seals
(http://i65.tinypic.com/24bs2rs.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/j97jom.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2uz5dt2.jpg)
Old throwout bearing
(http://i64.tinypic.com/w2iwrq.jpg)
Old vs new
(http://i65.tinypic.com/t9cr42.jpg)
New bearing in with Honda urea grease
(http://i68.tinypic.com/jt9dhj.jpg)
Ready to go back together
(http://i63.tinypic.com/21d1iiv.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/5yx2dd.jpg)
SpeedFactory heavy duty detent springs
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2vws614.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/t0715k.jpg)
Transmission finally all finished
(http://i65.tinypic.com/n48481.jpg)
New front bumper
(http://i65.tinypic.com/sdo9j7.jpg)
Hasport mounts
(http://i68.tinypic.com/15ov0r9.jpg)
2.75" intercooler piping
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2hhd9wp.jpg)
Piping to make the manifold, treadstone 1.5" schedule 10
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2l9jtiw.jpg)
1/2" thick mild steel divided t4 flange
(http://i66.tinypic.com/28001h3.jpg)
Head flange that adapts the head port to 1.5"
(http://i64.tinypic.com/35aiwid.jpg)
4" vibrant exhaust bellow for the exhaust, also have two 1.75" exhaust bellows for the wastegates
(http://i66.tinypic.com/xndeu0.jpg)
Moving on to redoing the engine harness
(http://i67.tinypic.com/3329clf.jpg)
Removing the wire loom
(http://i63.tinypic.com/smel2v.jpg)
Mocking everything up, kinda sorta tucking it
(http://i64.tinypic.com/miky9f.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/xgljbt.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/16jezih.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2mn5bit.jpg)
Along with shortening and extending wires as needed, I also replaced a bunch of connectors
Old distributor connectors
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2r6h57b.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2mycjo1.jpg)
Old alternator plug, ended up changing it to an obd2 style alternator plug
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2zdykn7.jpg)
Almost finished, need to bolt up the trans to finish the reverse switch and starter solenoid wire
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2myx82t.jpg)
Took the engine off the stand so I can bolt up the transmission and finish the engine harness
(http://i64.tinypic.com/29da3ys.jpg)
Hopefully this weekend I can get the flywheel & clutch setup bolted on and then after putting on the trans, it's ready to drop in
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Finished up the engine harness
(http://i66.tinypic.com/zxp1g5.jpg)
Distributor plugs tucked away down by the thermostat
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2nav1uc.jpg)
Used a BRZ oil drain plug to block off the coolant fan switch on the back of the block, now the switch is on the thermostat housing
(http://i66.tinypic.com/15qysth.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/mtmjqr.jpg)
ARP flywheel bolts
(http://i67.tinypic.com/vzv9k3.jpg)
Flywheel torqued down
(http://i67.tinypic.com/3329ooo.jpg)
Clutch & pressure plate on
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2m2za0g.jpg)
Switching to the hush performance pull style slave cylinder
(http://i65.tinypic.com/33ue4pz.jpg)
Ready to go in
(http://i63.tinypic.com/4grcm1.jpg)
Used a 9/16†drill bit to drill out the bottom two holes of the t-bracket, as the t-bracket was originally for a cable transmission
(http://i67.tinypic.com/20ib59c.jpg)
Moved the fuel filter here next to the t-bracket
(http://i63.tinypic.com/rjftyr.jpg)
Ready to go in
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2qipkzm.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/21a07mh.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/33kaqlh.jpg)
Mission accomplished
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2dvmr2c.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/afd660.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2rp2snc.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2agpyxx.jpg)
Plenty of room back here
(http://i66.tinypic.com/eqcent.jpg)
Time to party
(http://i68.tinypic.com/30blqm8.jpg)
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Fuck yea
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Yeah!
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Thanks guys :)
Small update, here's the hush performance pull type slave cylinder
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2s13j3d.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/303ig5h.jpg)
Starting point, already drilled out the hole in the clutch fork for the slave cylinder to attach
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2njf5dw.jpg)
Put this jam nut in
(http://i68.tinypic.com/1198jn8.jpg)
Then put the slave cylinder on
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2h3o8t4.jpg)
Tighten everything down, keeping in mind that there's adjustment with the jam nut and heim joint depth
(http://i64.tinypic.com/k1orbk.jpg)
Ready to go
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2w23le1.jpg)
And a pic of the fuel filter for those curious about clearance
(http://i63.tinypic.com/oupf15.jpg)
Right now I'm waiting for some an fittings to arrive so I can finish the fuel lines and clutch line. I'm also doing my best to figure out how the intercooler and turbo setup are going to fit without hacking up the front bumper too bad. Didn't get a picture with the bumper on but I mocked it up to see what space we have to work with
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2gwtfkn.jpg)
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Nice work bro! Super clean. What kind of power you aiming for?
I had a 91 SI back in the day. Built ZC with a bunch of nitrous. Car was a blast. Always wanted to get another.....
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Thanks man, appreciate it :) shooting for 700hp, wish me luck
That sounds like fun O0 I definitely have the ef bug
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really nice! did you replace yourserlf valve guides? im looking for some neway tools for to replace valve guides then reface valves and valve seats.
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really nice! did you replace yourserlf valve guides? im looking for some neway tools for to replace valve guides then reface valves and valve seats.
Yea I replaced them myself, I used a 5.5mm valve guide drift punch that was apparently designed for removing motorcycle valve guides, but it worked great.
I basically followed what this guy did --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2VkImRi2QI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2VkImRi2QI)
One issue I had was that the valve guide drift punch I got off eBay seemed to be pretty cheap, so I accidentally snapped the skinny tip of it off while punching out the valve guides to begin with. You definitely want a soft aluminum washer/spacer or something in between the valve guide and the valve guide drift punch to soften the impact between both parts. I saw some people on youtube that used an air chisel to get the valve guides out but I didn't have any luck with that, I think because of my air compressor and air chisel being from harbor freight :)
The second issue I had was that half of the valves didn't fit into the valve guides after I punched the new bronze valve guides in, it was either all of the intake valves or all of the exhaust valves, I don't remember. I ended up taking my head to the machine shop so they could work their magic and ream out the inside of the valve guides to make them fit. Also, keep in mind that the valve guides for the intake and exhaust can be different (or at least were with this engine), so make sure you keep track of which is which. I believe the height on the valve guides was different between the exhaust and intake on mine.
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Glad the forum is back online O0 Got this thing up and running, no dyno numbers yet but I probably have 100 miles on it or so. I need to iron out a handful of things before it's ready to go on the dyno so it'll still be a little while
(https://i.imgur.com/Xqj34Sw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/96ns3oo.jpg)
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Sweet!!!! :noel:
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Glad the forum is back online O0 Got this thing up and running, no dyno numbers yet but I probably have 100 miles on it or so. I need to iron out a handful of things before it's ready to go on the dyno so it'll still be a little while
(https://i.imgur.com/Xqj34Sw.jpg)
so clean #drools
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I've slowly been chipping away at things. To fix the tires being way taller in the front I changed out the r888 195/50/R15s in the back for some 195/65R15 Kumho Ecsta's which certainly help make it look more even. In the process of getting the new tires put on the tech didn't realize he marked up my rim, but thankfully the shop had a mobile wheel repair person fix it free of charge to me. You can't even tell that mark was there anymore so I don't care that much about it, just hope they're more careful next time.
(https://i.imgur.com/lReZbCh.jpg)
I also raised the rear of the car 1.5" to even it out some more, but while I was loosening the rear LCA's to unload the suspension I ended up snapping two of the lca bolts. One was seized to the bushing and one was seized to the nut that's tack welded to the body.
(https://i.imgur.com/Xxjp4Y8.jpg)
After cutting out the bushings I'm waiting on new bushings and bolts which I should have this weekend, so if all goes well I can get it back on the road. I still have to cut the tack welded nuts off so that should be interesting.
I put LED lights in the cluster and found out my cluster lights weren't working because I had some small black plastic thing under the dash unplugged
(https://i.imgur.com/3w4ywVU.jpg)
Looks much better
(https://i.imgur.com/ewiIk1o.jpg)
When I was initially driving my car around I noticed the fuel gauge wasn't working (always said empty) so I took the level sensor out. It looks like the part is discontinued, and I got one from the junkyard that had the same problem, so I used a piece of wire and some solder to do this ghetto fix
(https://i.imgur.com/64ABRsn.jpg)
Basically because of the corrosion and the part being 30 years old, there was way too much resistance between these two pieces that I connected with the white wire. Once I added that wire, my fuel gauge started working like normal
(https://i.imgur.com/666xMAn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ltyCJKf.jpg)
Aside from starting it up every couple of weeks, I haven't really driven it much lately. Two weeks ago I changed out the thermostat for a 170 degree stant that I drilled two holes in, so hopefully this weekend I can see if that helps with my overheating issues.
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when I broke suspension bolts in the nuts welded to the body, we heated what was left of the bolt cherry red, then it came out with vice grips.
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when I broke suspension bolts in the nuts welded to the body, we heated what was left of the bolt cherry red, then it came out with vice grips.
That's pretty nifty. One of these days I need to cowboy up and get an oxy-acetylene torch, I assume that's what you were using? I tried heating it up with a tiny propane torch but didn't have any luck
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MAP gas the yellow bottle usually gets just about anything car related red hot when needed.