:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Fabrication => Topic started by: fastivab6tg25mr on September 26, 2015, 04:59:06 PM
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so i picked up this ford courier a few moths back with the dream of decent handling, solid braking, and 500whp.
what im going to be using:
Engine:
Kia/mazda FE3N possibly gasket matched ports but thats about it
Induction:
Holeset HX35 with BEP T3 housing
Tial MVS 38mm external waste gate
Drive train:
Mazda B2600 trans- possibly with the RX7 TII gears inside
99 Ford Explorer 8.8 3.73 lsd 31 spline with disc brakes
custom drive shaft
i havent decided on what clutch im going to run yet, i loved my spec so i might go that route
Suspension:
Rear:
triangulated 4 link with coil overs mounted as far out as possible
Front:
full mustang 2 front end narrowed 5"
Brakes:
front Ford Granada 11" rotors with metric GM calipers and pads(standard Mustang II "big brake" set up)
stock ford explorer rear discs, calipers, and e brake
there is a lot i have to get into place before i can even get the engine/trans mounted
first i had to weld in some temporary cross members to keep the frame straight. then i got to remove the stock garbage. 6 hrs, one plasma cutter tip, 4 cut off wheels, and 2 full grinding wheels later the frame rails were all pretty
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2Fstock%2520front%2520end.jpg&hash=117af99a669dc1ca989db0c63ad61bdacd7ffd5d)
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using this awesome thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-mustang-ii-deux.70073/ (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-mustang-ii-deux.70073/) i was able to figure out i needed my cross member to be narrowed 5" to set the proper track width.
i drew up my measurements on a piece of 10ga plate and got cutting
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i bolted the 2 plates together, leveled my frame,centered them on my lines, leveled the cross member, and weled them up
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I made the upper control arm mounts out of 1/4 plate. i used the mustang 2 anti-dive angle instead of making them flat because its a truck and it will be front end heavy.
i centered and bolted the uca mounts to a pair of extra bars i had laying around to make sure they didnt move. i then double checked that the frame was level and centered the uca mounts with a plumb bob. once they were welded into place i boxed them in with 10ga plate and gusseted the over hang and welded in the shock mounts which are also made from 1/4 plate.
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Take it easy on him. He's one of my good friends. Lmfao.
JT, please make a noob post consisting of nude photos of your girlfriend, her mom, he sister. (Doesn't have to be in that particular order).
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noob thread done in general discussion
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noob thread done in general discussion
Not done missing important elements :noel:
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this is pretty fuckin cool, and i will be keeping an eye on it. seen your GD post first, was thinking build thread in fab section wasnt the right place, guess im wrong. lol.
are you going to be shortening one side of the explorer rear end? if so im every interested in that as i would like to do that with my nova. can you document that well for me?
anyway. interesting combo of parts. seems every interesting. and im guessing pretty solid. keep us up to date!
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noob thread done in general discussion
Chicken fucking isn't going to cut it.
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noob thread done in general discussion
Chicken fucking isn't going to cut it, bitch
Also fixed. :noel:
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rip him a new one niggas
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he already got a custom title ::)
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Badass!
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slow at work so me and my boss started playing around with ideal ride height. put the tires(245-40-17) in the wheel wells and set it on stands but then we got busy so i spent the rest of the day staring at it. the more i stared the more i wanted to drive it. with that motivation i finished my tubular control arms mounts, welded in cross member reinforcements and got my main steering rack mount in. tonight i pulled the cab off to fit the engine. looks like the fire wall will need to pushed back round 8 inches to get the engine seated low enough and back enough to make me happy. more pics to come
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I'm liking the progress, now do more work NOW!!!!!!! :noel: :noel: :noel: :noel:
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after a week of going back and forth with amazon trying to get my Chassis Engineering rack mount kit and continuously getting the wrong part i said fuck it im making my own.
a piece of 1/2" wide by 2" tall aluminum
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making threaded inserts
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finally mounted. i could probably lift the car from this rack lol
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Right on. Looks good
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playing with some card board i came up with my engine mount brackets. took a few tries but i think i have the design down.Gonna make them out of the same 10ga the cross member is made of... when all boxed up it should be plenty strong enough to hold my projected 500whp in place.
P.S. when im done im gonna turn this thread into a photo album that stays in my truck to beat the fuck out of all the fags cambered out with rims with "built not bought" stickers
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i transferred my cardboard design to some 10ga.Cut them out with a plasma cutter then welded all 4 together so i could grind them into shape and drill the holes. bolted them to the mounts to get the proper spacing. removed the center collar from the bushing and bolted it in by itself before welding it up. i might have the motor in this weekend.
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Holy fuck......this is badass
Love the FE3N engines. Wish I could have used one with my setup.
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i took the week off of work for a vacation but ended up not going. just more time to work on my truck. finished the trans cross member/mounts. used the same poly bushings that i used for the engine mounts on a piece pf 1x2. with the engine and trans set where i wanted them i started cutting until the cab fit. over the engine/trans. this FE3N is a little bigger than i first thought it was.
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pulled the cab back off to fix some rust before making the new tunnel. turns out there is a shit ton more rust than i originally thought so now i have to fix all of that before i can even think of making a floor. im a very shitty body guy so any tips will be appreciated. im just taking what i think is the logical approach and cutting everything out until there is good solid metal, tracing a pattern onto some 20ga, cut, drill, plug weld.
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I haven't logged in, in like, 6 months.
I'm glad I stopped by this thread, this is really good shit.
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got the cab mounted back to the frame and started working on my floor boards with my shitty harbor freight bead roller. didnt turn out too bad considering the tools and that this is the first floor ive ever made.
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before and after bead rolling
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Good progress! wow
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thanks guys for the positive feed back. glad im not just talking to myself on here lol
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awesome build on a piece of shit, we like that kind of stuff around here. :noel:
how much did the rolling help the stiffness of the floors?
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there is no comparison. the rolled one is ridiculously stiffer.
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It is looking good JT. I passed by the shop earlier this week but didnt stop. I need to check this shit out.
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its at my work. not much to see right now cause its wrapped in a tarp and sitting outside. it will be coming back in to have the floor finished in 2 weeks
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started putting my floor in today. using self tappers to tack it all in place while i form the tranny tunnel. as soon as it all fits to my liking i will seam weld the whole floor in place.
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Looks killer man!!
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this floor is taking forever and i havent even started welding on it yet.
i hand formed the rough shape of the fire wall and screwed it into place. the self tapping screws are very helpful cause i was able make all the marks for bending and cutting, remove it from the cab, make all the bends and cuts and put it back in the exact location so everything lines up.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20151229_150248.jpg&hash=9759460dabdaf93f3efc0b51687f7ea2f1cac8f2)
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it was a long day so i didnt get pics of all the shaping and bending of the flanges to join the new fire wall to the cab.
after it was all screwed into place i took my harbor freight body hammers and beat the shit out of the lower sides where i dont need a lot of engine bay space to gain a little foot room. after its all welded im gonna pull the cam and have q buddy hold a dolly on one side so i can smooth out some of the hammer marks.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20151229_170020.jpg&hash=19bb5dcbbc24027e96ee527cb06fda742db36cbd)
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Bitchen!!
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fuck yeah. i cant imagine what the floor would have looked like in my Nova if it was rusted out. sure as shit wouldnt look like that! obviously not million dollar shop perfect, but seriously you have built a damn good looking floor!
keep up the solid work, and keep us updated ;DDD
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excellent work
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thanks guys, the positive feed back is why i keep posting updates. im gonna start welding tomorrow. i hope it doesnt warp too bad.
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Short welds and jump around.
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6 hours of welding later i have just about all of the top of my floor welded. it doesnt look like any of it warped. i pulled the cab off to get to the bottom seams right before i left for the day. should be able to finish welding it tomorrow and maybe even put primer on it.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20151231_190410.jpg&hash=256fae687ed06ad0a97353b361b7f4e337518c65)
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Awesome
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thats a hell of a project you have taken on. floors, tunnel, recessed fire wall, mii front suspension.... im not ready for something like that lol.
is the floor going to require any bracing? or is it solid the way it is?
keep it up, looking good.
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i was expecting to have to do some bracing but its incredibly solid as it sits with barely any flex even with my fat ass crawling around on it. when i put the seat rails in i will be adding some overkill bracing top and bottom. thats just to make sure the seat stays put if i ever do hit anything.
finished the floor and got it seam sealed and primered. there are two spots on the upper fire wall that i missed and will be finishing them today. i just needed t get the primer on it before today so i dont have to worry abut it rusting while it sits outside
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160102_205240.jpg&hash=3dcb7007078d5f9d2e497ddc8b8b0ae31493fb54)
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Looks good faggot :noel:
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Sweet!!!
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I love watching some cut and weld a shitbox into something nice. Keep it up chicken fucker!
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Damn you made that look easy!
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Thanks guys. More progress to come after my taxes get here. Im still not sure what seats I'm gonna run yet. I'm leaning towards some mercedes C class AMG seats cause i want lots of support,black leather and seat heaters plus they are fat people friendly to fit my 38" waist.
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This is awesome, looking forward to seeing you nog out the turbo setup.
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more progress. i picket up upper control arms, steering stuff, 2003 Saab 93 seats, and a short side axle to narrow my 8.8 rear end.
the seats take up a little more room than i originally thought but they are heated, power leather seats and say "Turbo" in the middle so ill work around that. i pulled the seat cover off and cut out the "hump" on the back of the back rest for more clearance. that wasnt enough so i also trimmed the rear cab brace to get an extra few inches. after the seat was installed i realized how little room i had left for my pedals so i had to cut the fire wall out and extend it back into the engine bay.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FMessage_1455399630028.jpg&hash=bc45564b4877a99d46c004528d44c36cb2fc0d17)
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Looks good man!!
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Good work chicken fucker
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Nice work.
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spent most of the day working on narrowing my 8.8. i chose the hard way and drilled the plug welds and hammered out the axle tube then reinstalled it lining up all my marks. it was a huge pain in the ass and if i were to do another i would just cut and weld the tube. installing it was even worse than removing it. i used 2 2200lb eye bolts and shackles hooked to a 2600lb chain through the pumpkin with some bearing press dies threaded around the eye bolts. i had to tighten the bolt as hard as i could then beat the fuck out of it while its under tension with a hammer then repeat steps 1 & 2 for eternity each time only moving the tube a millimeter or two. giant pain in the ass but its done and im over it.
drain
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160212_174633_2.jpg&hash=69eab57853ae20fd63f2330f6480bebe8688a2f4)
mark
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160219_175747.jpg&hash=fd09499191a3787f9dce649965ef6a00e5c3c9ca)
drill- 1/4, 5/16, 18.5mm mill bit
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160219_175800.jpg&hash=dc9cbead84a9bbb9ce03a599239a04bb6a5c079f)
remove all fancy like
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160219_192850.jpg&hash=8dda86383f2fbd07877fa447ec2fa330fa2a6537)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160219_193857.jpg&hash=1a0ccec81f2680a400279a7df40f5bc8b100f251)
difference in left vs right axle 2 7/8"
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160219_205807.jpg&hash=abd5a833c4695efebd229ed9f2d500ef20c03242)
fancy press tool
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FMessage_1456031474634.jpg&hash=93047a9b549ec1352ec8d72991b83aa25fc2dee0)
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doing some more assembly. the truck is a bit lighter than i expected it to be. it cant even compress one jaguar rear coil spring(jags have 2 per side). the shocks just stay topped out and dont even sag when i stand on the front bumper. narrowing the axle made the spring perches the perfect width to bolt it back up to the leaf springs for mock up. feels good to see this thing back on its own wheels after 9 months.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FMessage_1456077528489.jpg&hash=0f64923c6376195a3c57e91102ae32074a16ffeb)
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nice.
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almost done with the fire wall
passenger side finally done
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160228_125350.jpg&hash=29c8e5033777a0fdc6781275312cef73ca461775)
steering support in place and basic shape of teh drivers pedal area worked out
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160227_212806.jpg&hash=e1e20f4f530fa91db499f0d05bb6d698c38da5c7)
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extended floor piece for the gas pedal shaped out
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160228_125407.jpg&hash=6b527b5f5de991ca672e6687b5cee6f654b59a53)
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all welded in
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160228_162948.jpg&hash=d05b04e30a723949153547380793a57f31e66ec0)
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Wow, what a shit ton of fab work. Keep at it man! It's really coming together.
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Its really hard to stay focused on this thing with how nice this northern California weather has been lately. Tough choice between sitting in my shop and going out mountain biking
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This thing keeps getting better and better!
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picking up the pieces to install my 4 link this weekend. the threaded bungs i got were 1" OD so i made some sleeves out of 1.5" .250" wall DOM to fit them snugly into the 1.75" .125" wall DOM im using for the links.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160223_212826.jpg&hash=e97fb9734c372cf3814caf85a386f99a6727aae6)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160302_210414.jpg&hash=7d885bc1c454c09881d783be2b289b64c5e8e418)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160301_211601.jpg&hash=6993cbbc9052421e1adf9ff870c3a81233325557)
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cut all the stock tabs off of the 8.8 so its ready for the 4 link tabs. i grossly underestimated how much time and grinding that this would take.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160302_211047.jpg&hash=2bef0ada12eb1125b10a20ac4ba2d1440849fe0d)
i fabbed up some sleeves to replace the front coil springs and made spacers for the rear to set ride height to give me an idea of what needed to be where. its a little higher than i thought it would be but it still looks good. if i decide to slam it out i can get drop spindles to keep my control arm alignment in the front.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160301_212940.jpg&hash=2d03abf82619f934074a2609d4e2b7b547588c3f)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160301_213014.jpg&hash=6f8927f5eef9711ef0251f6b7c7db942af68b5c6)
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Looks like the home stretch is in sight, keep it going, this is getting Fabtastic and sexy :noel:
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Dude, this looks so bad ass!!
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doin more work. seemed like i didnt really get shit done this weekend cause it takes forever to plan out shit than to actually build it. only have 2 links done but i know where the other 2 are going so the fab work should go quickly.
pulled the cab and bed off so i could take accurate measurements and make sure everything is perfectly lined up. measured everything at least 20 times before welding. then measures 10 more after tacking it in place.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FMessage_1457320080209.jpg&hash=5dc87d40910181066bc67fdaae28e791b2ab6e17)
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trying to get the most angle and still keeping it true 4 link i combined the top frame mount 3 tabs, 2 bushings one bolt.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160306_124845.jpg&hash=8267ce2a0d1f9491bc7753a57f6a9708972398d7)
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the links
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finished the lower bars and got the brackets tacked into place. ill pull the rear end out tonight and finish welding it all in and mock up the coil over tabs. ill also cut the crossmember out thats over the pinion while im at it.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160308_221853.jpg&hash=ec1460288a9fbf99e7928fa39172568c1d99d73a)
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i think im going to have the frame powder coated and obnoxious neon orange like this. i think it will pop with the blue
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FDSCI0681.jpg&hash=b48b82e65d99abe23adcf03041c4b76f378181c5)
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Gulf colours
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my buddy showed me pics of the gulf Porsche when i told him what color i wanted on the frame. he suggested charcoal. i want a little bit of bright and flashy under the blue farm truck paint. open to suggestions.
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shitbox ftw. its not a show truck. think painting the frame a bright ass color will make it look cheap and tacky. ghetto.
:mexi: O0 ::)
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The interior and under the hood is getting done up like a show truck, wire tuck, all lines and hoses will be stainless hardlines, shiny things everywhere. I want to powder coat the frame to keep it from rusting and since you'll be able to see the whole front half of the frame around the engine i wanted it to stand out.
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i finally found someone selling a Holset that is not a fucking flake. i want fast spool and drivabiility over peak power so i was looking at HY35's but came across this HE341W for $200. spins freely and has zero play. im so happy to finally have it to start mocking up my engine bay!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F17821_10154716538833032_1972027067352932305_n.jpg&hash=8a84147aeeec7ca3c552b7a127378775ada3c006)
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Nice!!
Looks similar to my HE351ve, except it has vgt control box on it.
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Run yet?
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not yet. its slow going to to lack of funds and its hella nice out so ive been on my mountain bike a lot. a buddy of mine had my flanges laser cut so i can start mocking up the manifold. heres where the turbo is gonna go.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160430_192158.jpg&hash=d01ac6c9c8969765a8fefc8c6620d747415a5425)
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Just got my weld els! Should have a manifold by this weekend!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160510_114110.jpg&hash=74d5e339a6011d2ee6a057f7f79e199c13b59f1a)
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Killer!!
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I got runners 1 and 4 done so far, I feel retarded fir how hard it is to fit the pieces together...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160513_200230.jpg&hash=3da03d5934b5eb5d429b60ff7894a8cf846381bc)
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Looks like it will be tight for a downpipe?
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Should have plenty of room for the down pipe and heat shields.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160516_080921.jpg&hash=ded92bde6ce960f55a69566ac789fc2a2937d8ad)
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i ran out of argon before i could finish all of the bottom welds but its just about done. trying to figure out the order to do the finish welding in was a pain and took forever.
had to weld up 1,2,& 4 with 3 out then weld the 1-3 collector elbow onto the T3 flange. then the elbow off of thttp://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/Themes/core/images/bbc/ftp.gifhe head flange had to be welded completely to the straight bit. it left just enough room between 1&2 runners to fit the torch in there to finish off #3
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160522_145159.jpg&hash=83bc14032d2af5fa3cf6569fc4dcd04329d491bb)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2Fmanifold%25201.jpg&hash=0f06288d91da6cd54077dd0187e3df06d2971ef9)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160522_195542.jpg&hash=c50594c430950279425d327e72d4e486448ab621)
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160522_195604.jpg&hash=28e0df20fe0abed9c2257ec7762e6f582f9b0fe6)
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looks like the only spot to mount my Tial MVS is gonna be straight on top of my #3 runner. ive seen manifolds that do this but not sure how i feel about only tapping into 1 runner for the wastegate. even if its right at the collector.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160522_201536.jpg&hash=8d9b7404cdbccca875fb0dac5fef065f5f00ca21)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160522_201546.jpg&hash=f275289f5aade8459eec2ff21351368682789658)
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Oh, must have just been the pic, looks good.
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I have that turbo on my accord. Its nice! It doesnt really seem to spin up much faster that the hx35 on another f22a build i did. Could be my cams.
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Damn. I was really hoping for fastish spool. Where did you get your v band flange for the exhauat? I Have a solid 4.5" round stock and a lathe but that seems like a lot of work that I'd like to avoid.
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manifold is done! just gotta send it off to get ceramic coated now.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160529_152645.jpg&hash=ce1ddbc4f019ecb4e0d2d9b93aabcbda8327e0e2)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160529_152706.jpg&hash=f2d6fa58f50d220ac155f246e874fcf4fd79dc3e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160529_155555.jpg&hash=f8f50d2b2029f24712643e7e2b02781506b4bd5f)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160529_155616.jpg&hash=fdb4ab08d2290b6816de138aaa5151f5cdc634c6)
a look down into the wastegate flange
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160529_152012.jpg&hash=3e76cffadccb4f6e62b5a3d858ace301548fe130)
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Try your local Cummins dealer for the vband
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Dude who gave me the turbo had it from the truck.cut it off at the junkyard I guess. I tried to buy the v band clamp from the dealership. They told me they had to order the entire Turbo. They couldn't order any parts. So of Course I welded that shit back together. You might want to just turn your own I have mine taken apart right now I could give you dimensions.
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im assuming both sides are the same so im just measuring the back of the turbo and mirroring it. if that fails i found a few holset 4" to 3" adapters that are around $40
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My He351ve had and odd 3.5" v-band :noel:
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It's called a 4" but it's 3.7"I'd and a 4.4" od of the v band flange
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the dimensions on mine were not the same as any other vband I could find. with a lathe you can make a flange and clamp yourself. have fun.
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im still learning how to use my lathe so i gave up on the flange for the moment to build my steering column.
started out with a bronco 2 tilt column cause it was the most compact. cut abut a foot off of the housing and cut the outer support cup off and welded it to the shorter shaft. i was able to pic the ignition lock and bought a new replacement from autozone for $16 with 2 keys
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160611_132412.jpg&hash=b9bb67b0c9b30c33f700ad2777dc82c0e36dd0f0)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160615_220233.jpg&hash=0f8e227d11c628bf605b5895d1a2bf0ec0a327f4)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160611_124357.jpg&hash=65d7eb1159bd3f018c1dd848fa0f255514ce463a)
i tacked the piece of angle to the firewall and built this shitty bracket to hold it all up. after every thing was tacked in place i broke the tacks to remove and fully weld all the seams.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160615_212842.jpg&hash=d64055b7f91d756af9974ac95873805a89736ddc)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160615_220219.jpg&hash=7dd60abfe8d55d185550ace8274797c773c7e5c1)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160615_220249.jpg&hash=024d6db3b0c858d81593fae7236960dccfd488f6)
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I'll measure my flange, I can turn one for you now that my lathe is back together, but I don't have any bar stock that big.
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I can send you the giant bar I have already started with.
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Do you Have The V band?
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I do not have a flange or clamp yet. My shop just got some new bits with carbide tips so I'm gonna give it one more go before I give up
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My buddy just sent me a link to a company that actually makes them! Puredieselpower.com part number KEA062413-X they come in either a 3", 3.5", or 4"
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you need that $129 elbow and clamp
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That v band above replacesea the elbow
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there is a turbo to elbow v band clamp for 55. that $129 elbow may not come with a v band clamp. looks like your gonna be out $200 to get this from them. I dont see any cheaper flange and clamp there.
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I'm not seeing what you're seeing. The flange is $39. It replaces the cast elbow aso it attaches directly to the turbine housing. I can get the clamp locally for around $30 (https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2FScreenshot_2016-06-30-06-34-15.png&hash=f476b7516884a1b4eef45f39a46677efe4490d37)
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oh nice. I might get that when I make a new dp.
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Slow progress is still progress... finally got my passenger seat rails welded in and the seat mounted. Sold one of my cars so I finally have some cash to order parts and hopefully get this thing running.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160710_204545.jpg&hash=0d7517a241033f8001c3782f89f00da00f8a915b)
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Extended arp wheel studs and new wheels fitted to measure for spacers (https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160713_185757.jpg&hash=f3f9923c47f27ee018773d1ecc5fd4cf51e8765b)
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you should rock the no hood look so everyone can see that
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Dope!! Some awesome 3 stars....lol
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bought a Greddy knock off s13 sr20det intake manifold. the casting looks like garbage and they machined a one of the vacuum ports wrong and put a hole in it. My expectations were pretty low for $89 shipped but i was still disappointed. if this works i may buy a real Greddy manifold. . i decided to build an adapter instead of just swapping flanges because the runners in the head are pretty steep pointing up and the runners on the manifold point down. i figured rotating the flanges for a straight shot would increase power potential.
i didnt have an SR20DET flange so i had to make one. i would usually use a gasket as a stencil fot the flange but it wont be here til Friday and im impatient. i used a trick my high school auto shop teacher taught me, thin cardboard/paper put a couple of bolts in the holes and hammer. traced the template onto steel and cut it with a plasma cutter. then used a carbide cutter to smooth it out
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160716_112255.jpg&hash=198de9a2aaa66d5902ba095270098c7993060625)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160716_112604.jpg&hash=645d48bf1d9c06c69d629da361a6ac27f44dba57)
put the manifold against the head to work out what angle it needed to be then tack welded the two flanges together to make sure everything would bolt up. and it does. i can still get my oil filter off too which is nice.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160716_153813.jpg&hash=79f3d819c30ef1c3c8b190a19dd227d4c378e9d7)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160716_161821.jpg&hash=f6cd3527244e9d189d6855e1f9eaff89c409c245)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160716_161545.jpg&hash=90c3aa4f2cdec15293231389c31fad2188917324)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160716_161536.jpg&hash=fbd0962f26541e479c5e56a21c730f9f415d8f59)
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im building the runners today so more pics later
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So bad ass man!!
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done!
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160717_093240.jpg&hash=4bf32ef2058bbc47033707d9b2c9874b75c884d2)(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160717_095844.jpg&hash=892ea4e1b6deca68732815dfb1dbdd1a089c73ae)(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160717_103428.jpg&hash=6d387541ef6b5fdf90ece4fa13a4d36cf992a570)
a little confusing to look at but i bolted both flanges to the intake manifolds to keep them from warping while welding.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160717_151442.jpg&hash=b2c4cf9861352ec5455d48156d820cb40de40f61)(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160717_151913.jpg&hash=66fbcaf62aeb72fea736ebb2c07693979e2acbb8)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160717_162455.jpg&hash=eeb5a5d1304adc536edda3fbd476ec19461ff9b2)
painted all pretty
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160717_165324.jpg&hash=a37d0df4d03e384c139f9a752c477be37460f209)(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160717_165349.jpg&hash=24799a8f911fe40c25b0ecc683e125a08b175ab5)(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160717_170827.jpg&hash=566c409dc55471d02f4360db210f7506fce09e33)
final assembly
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160717_171526.jpg&hash=e4f96693836ef8bf47cf27c5621b1c29824052c4)(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160717_171811.jpg&hash=52c75aefda4214662270f1f85e29293e7878bee7)(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160717_171825.jpg&hash=c41097366c1b612148f761f173b594df36b4d3b5)(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160717_171840.jpg&hash=9c18bb08188f44a69a8ea0df5c4c7659db2b9ec6)
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nice
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nice
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2FIMG_5289.jpg&hash=21f57ea5691ada68a6108dd6e1f994c03faf264f)
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This keeps getting better, in for ripper vids :noel:
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I made a to-do list. Kinda just discouraged myself lol
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160818_194309.jpg&hash=6557d68184f4db5bf0824b5ce9e4843e2e2db3f3)
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Will there be room for all of that? :noel:
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I'll make room
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My turbo outlet flange and clamp came from pure diesel performance today. I might get the exhaust started this weekend.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160819_110704.jpg&hash=7d12798d6a2c0fe390c269af924dab2e70e673cf)
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that looks good. Ive been cleaning mine up realizing how shitty my old exhaust really was... 2.5" crush bent with a 2.25 resonator shit dp and still 400 hp.
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yea, pretty does not equal power. but for the firt time in one of my builds i want both lol
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ive decided to go with a 1987 S-10 Blazer fuel tank. its cheap, it fits between the frame rails, and it uses an intank pump. again ive tried to order the direct fit straps and nothing fits so im making all of my own mounting hardware out of some square tubing and 2" strap steel.
it took longer to square and level the tank in the frame than it did to make the upper brackets. im going to use some rubber hose slipped over the strap to protect the tank.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160902_171140.jpg&hash=6b6bc39c7e61dbc7010ca3ca34e587c988b9ea73)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160902_192834.jpg&hash=83b28529c75824af07931f484468facc2b1afe4f)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160902_192932.jpg&hash=a8e335ae8037c458c5f9f723c30a69d1fc656ec9)
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Busy weekend. Finished mounting my fuel tank, finished my shifter, got my escort ZX2 center console mocked up, and found a throttle body.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160904_192332.jpg&hash=b1f9f41df1e350b559c349247d844d5c1227e007)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160903_164128.jpg&hash=2892835633fc8be8c9f68f5834d55b1287776494)
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i had to move the truck to a different stall at work than it usually goes into and i found that the tires rub the cab now that have the spacers on them. the spacers need to be there and im sticking with 245/40/17s all around so i had to do some more cutting and welding. i used some thicker 16ga to keep it from distorting when my fat ass pushes on it to settle in my seat. i was worried that it would take up more of my limited leg room but the little extra isnt noticable
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160910_183708.jpg&hash=ca7d5ea448c72eba9169f15c2ad220a286f8bcb8)
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Man, this thing is going to be so epic when it's done!!
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THANKS, I HOPE SO. THIS THING IS TAKING FOREVER
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One thing at a time and she will be done in no time!
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This thing needs to run soon, the closer to completion it gets, the heavier it is and I'm sick of pushing this piece of shit in and out of my shop everyday.
It looks so plain with the hood on. ..
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i started on the hvac. after a lot of looking around i decided on using all of it out of a 2001 kia sephia. cheap to replace, lots of them every where and the size of everything seemed about right. im going to be putting the evap and heater core in a custom box that is gonna make up the front of my center console. i didnt want to take away from the tiny bit of space that my passengers have to put their feet.
so far i have the blower motor mounted.
fresh out of the junk yard for $60
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160924_152252.jpg&hash=b988339296c9890987258e36e3896c23c999a8bb)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160924_200722.jpg&hash=e6aa68f3e218418e1d29e1478d97d786f0555dac)
massive evap. should keep my cab nice and chilly on those 100*+ days
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160924_202310.jpg&hash=8c40eb4a040ea1f6aba55a7440c14608420d96ac)
heater core is alot smaller but i have heated seats so im not worried.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160924_202533.jpg&hash=f6e9c4905e028e29a7ae53b3ab6cc5ab1987b756)
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i didnt take pics of the mounting but there is a 10ga plate that is welded to the underside of the cowling with studs in it to bolt the blower to. that blower pushes a ton of air. im building a box that will cover it and hold a cabin filter.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20160924_200210.jpg&hash=1fc838b8a1972bd5174a38efa5a99d12ae35cee7)
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finished my hood latch support. it works, just need to grind the welds and make it pretty.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2F20161002_124943.jpg&hash=79b8d0260df3c0cfedd5ae76a3bb8d66fa10111f)
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looks great, just don't get rear ended!
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im gonna make a reinforced skid plate around the tank
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ok long time no post, had to stop spending money on the truck so i could afford a house but since ive been outbid 5 times in a row i decided to splurge on some stuff and get some work done. first of all i switched that massive evap for a smaller one out of the rear ac unit of a dodge durango which is almost the same size as the heater core. finished my evap/heater box and got my center console firmly bolted to the truck. now i can finish sorting out my limited interior space. i also bought a big expensive piece of delrin to make my body mounts.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20161129_210222.jpg&hash=4be5e2214e004d2d81103c5e7fdc7732dafdf29a)
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a few hours of lathe time and i shout be able to turn this hunk of white gold into stiff as fuck body mounts....
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Looking good homie!!!
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Its half price at Pick n Pull so the truck is getting a little love this weekend. i picked up an a/c compressor. i decided to just use the stock Kia Sportage a/c compressor and modify the stock bracket to fit around my new engine mount brackets. it was pretty easy cause the there was only bolt that i couldnt use because it was directly behind the mount arm.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170114_093752.jpg&hash=bdac4ec0659671a909ce6cdcc8ff202a5efe5533)
it definitely is a huge help to have an extra block on a stand to mock up and weld mounts.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170114_142524.jpg&hash=fc094f91d2abd72511254748a94281b46b974c58)
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i also made an internal flaring tool to put barbs into pipe from the inside. its just a ball bearing inside of a banjo bolt and there is a ramp cut into the bolt so when you tighten it it pushes the bearing out. im sure there are improvements to be made but this is what i have so far. it works the same so far in stainless, copper, and aluminum.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170114_153227.jpg&hash=b8a64fdcc0acb82ca2f07d3dd90768301e35bd08)
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did more work today. after a lot of looking around the junk yard for pieces that fit properly i ended up with a thermostat housing off of a mercury capri XR2 turbo and a water pump outlet from a v6 hyundai sonota. im not using the stock thermostat cause it sticks out the front of the engine like the miatas do which is bad if youre going to be beating on the car. look up "miata coolant reroute" for more info on that.
the water pump inlet bolts right up, i just need to drill, tap, and put a hose barb in it for the heater core. the thermostat housing needs to sit on top of a plate so i have some where to drill and tap for a barb for the other side of the heater core. that will get done after i have the heater core plumbed into the engine bay. i made teh plate out of some 4" aluminum bar stock i have at my work for making misc tools. im still not great on the lathe but im slowly learning.
there is a block off plate in the rear of the head which is now getting the thermostat housing. i just swapped it to block off the front thermostat hole. it has thermostat holes front and rear of the head to work with fwd or rwd.
probably the smoothest surface ive made so far on a lathe
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170115_171746.jpg&hash=6ab55a2c70d0f33fd6e80fab8b844ae119ed6d2d)
cut in a step for the thermostat to sit in. its super easy to fit everything when you have a spare head just laying around.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170115_205523.jpg&hash=46d35638234fa4f7c81a51c31bdc43efeaab6969)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170115_205155.jpg&hash=90fdf28d17c2d2b2dc33ed94b7f27552ddc9cf23)
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the water pump inlet
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170115_210817.jpg&hash=f5f9b23c2e3eb63b9dc9b332fe05cc469771d969)
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Nice!
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after looking all over for 5/8" heater hose bulk head connectors and not finding what i wanted i made one.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170117_173010.jpg&hash=d3e7a5436c0755e70326d0a0fbc68095cf9875a9)
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its getting crowded back there... should still be plenty of room though.
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crush it
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Still BAD ASS
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crush it
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after starting at least 4 different alternator brackets i finally made one that cleared everything and sits strait. i have some heat shielding that im going to put between the alt and the manifold.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170123_204739.jpg&hash=97ca180029ddf7eb4e107d11167ec1bb9319e09b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170123_204750.jpg&hash=b0106dd357b0bd9f6ade2d335fc824b0aef1bf82)
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That internal flaring tool you made is fucking rad
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thanks. ill try to remember to pull it apart and take pics of the insides. theyre super easy to make.
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i got my alternator brackets all cleaned up and painted. did some final mock up of the intercooler and started mounting it. i had to trim the front cab mount support just a bit . i went a little overkill on the lower tray, i can pretty much stand on it. im going to wait until i have my ac condenser to mount the radiator to make sure all of my spacing is correct. for mock up purposes that piece of foam is the makeshift condenser.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170128_111301.jpg&hash=a1d8cec0e318f5a002e0bf2f1e51419cbbe2aeb8)
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not sure what im going to be doing with the intercooler to throttle body connection yet but it needs to move alot for how close they are
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170128_172512.jpg&hash=00be2d0a649d4d553dd23bdfabec399ce253f068)
turbo outlet is perfect
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170128_172516.jpg&hash=b640e3b7e81b55ef6336b630b80260dd9ec89ec7)
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Looks great dude!!
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I can not get enough of this build, more pics and details :noel:
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For the intercooler to TB connection, what about just a longer chunk of high pressure silicone hose?
I picked up a 3 ft chunk of it once from a semi truck part shop for maybe $30. It's super high pressure stuff with some type of thread woven into it, similar to stock radiator hoses but more pressure resistant. It would allow for engine movement and vibration
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That's the plan I just want it to be a straight shot instead of that weird kink. I'm not worried about movement. With the poly engine mounts it's not gonna move much.
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Silicone 45, a strait piece and a hump hose connector on the ic?
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you could chop that end tank and make it point out so you get a nice smooth bend with a piece of silicon hose. Get a quality hose to start with and you'll probably never have issues.
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after talking to my buddy that can tig weld he told me to cut the flange off and get a piece of aluminum and he'd weld it up for me.
like all great things it started with a sawz-all
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170421_180614.jpg&hash=00767280f04da6e0310754ebb4453d45debc51ed)
took forever to mill it one part cause the long bit and one part cause im a terrible machinist. angled the throttle body down 10* to line up better.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170422_112234.jpg&hash=057bdf36498a1ae4e1d2589e216111de20f634a6)
my beautiful gaping hole
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then the mock up to make sure all the gaps are tight and to make sure it points in the right direction.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170422_120226.jpg&hash=3e85d2a0e5e92840b376932881738e3720e7131a)
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Looks stellar
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I bet that didnt chatter at all when cutting. Hell with it being a welded part you could have just used a flapper to get it flat enough. now get them chips cleaned up and get yourself a way cover for that mill!
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odly enough it didnt chatter at all, i just tuned the speed up and was only making .040" cuts
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Throttle body plate welded up. Everting is looking better.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi271.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fjj146%2Faintnobitch%2Fcourier%2FIMG_20170602_173545.jpg&hash=2e5622db3210fe79362216a715486889211f48ad)
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Looks solid as fuck!!
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Badass!!! need more of this turbo porn that last pict is not enough!!!!
MORE now!!!! :noel:
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time a video of donuts and smoke!
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fuck photobucket so fucking hard night now... you now have to pay $40 a fucking month to use their slow ass ad filled shithole of a service... im gonna put all my pics on my computer and repost them
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fuck photobucket so fucking hard night now... you now have to pay $40 a fucking month to use their slow ass ad filled shithole of a service... im gonna put all my pics on my computer and repost them
http://imgur.com (http://imgur.com)
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fuck photobucket so fucking hard night now... you now have to pay $40 a fucking month to use their slow ass ad filled shithole of a service... im gonna put all my pics on my computer and repost them
http://imgur.com (http://imgur.com)
need updates
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working on my pedal setup
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2Ff2TLQUi.jpg&hash=a3fb312c554a94b97bf04f025e40b590f82b8469)
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welds kinda suck cause the welder im using is a 1970 millermatic 35 and has been stored outside for at least 15 years. its rusty inside and out. plus im a shitty welder, and its hot as fuck in my shop after work...
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So much custom shit on this thing! I'm wondering when you just say fuck it and build your own car from scratch? Welds are better than mine. Throw some paint on it and you'll never even notice 8)
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Don't have a big enough level surface/frame table and don't trust my welds enough for a chassis
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chassis welds dont have to be that good. just add more tubes
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a little update, new smaller steering wheel, new kirkey prosteet seat, reconfigured the rear upper links for proper geometry, fuel sender is finally installed.
theres enough room under the seat that im probably goinf to make a slide out tray or something
(https://i.imgur.com/MJj140s.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/C7TfLNZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BabRbfp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xdiW7ax.jpg)
it was a pain sourcing viton orings for e85
(https://i.imgur.com/RGjJcRt.jpg)
cutting the tabs off and regrinding was a pain
(https://i.imgur.com/hgedrIO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gNglI0K.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mfxKWsZ.jpg)
all thats left is a panhard bar
(https://i.imgur.com/lnDeLws.jpg)
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This build is badass!!!! :noel:
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Sweet!! Keep at it!
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headed to SEMA so not much happening for the next week. i should have my wilwood adjustable proportioning valve waiting for me when i get back so installing the brakes will probably be next and remaking my rear shock mounts
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more truck updates...
panhard installed
(https://i.imgur.com/l439g87.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JTxRPAL.jpg)
megasquirt and some bulkhead connectors
(https://i.imgur.com/rUeaddj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JdVqZXc.jpg)
a/c ducting fiberglassed
(https://i.imgur.com/xS1KBmY.jpg)
pedal reservoirs routed
(https://i.imgur.com/ENEQNEs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kCsf9Uy.jpg)
brake and clutch hydraulics are ran
(https://i.imgur.com/XdGJfPK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iNLjXDY.jpg)
picked out a small battery with enough juice to power everthing
(https://i.imgur.com/aOhyM3W.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/5DxrVgg.jpg)
fuel lines ran with filter. flex fuel sensor is getting mounted next to the filter on the return line.
(https://i.imgur.com/jAgpYWG.jpg)
problems running the B2600 clutch and flywheel...i had to make a spacer out of the old kia sportage flywheel...its nice to have a lathe at work. the magic numbers are: remove the spacer plate from the back of the engine and a 4mm spacer between the crank and flywheel. it give the proper spacing for the B2600 slave cylinder and throw out bearing, starter to ring gear gap, while slightly increasing pilot bearing depth.
(https://i.imgur.com/9JbZ3Un.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XxXuPuZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uvFMkLJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SphwkP3.jpg)
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Dude, you've put in a crazy am out of work on this thing! Looks great, keep it up!
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It's going to be badass when it's done
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It's going to be badass when it's done
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drilled out my clutch master and installed studs in the pedal plate so i could remove it in the car without pulling the whole assembly. i also made my own 90* fitting out of an old crank bolt and some 1/4 black gas pipe
(https://i.imgur.com/Wugrx8F.jpg)
onto the fan shroud. made mostly of 18ga sheet left over from my floor. the center ring is a 1/2" wide 1/8" thick bar to keep it rigid once i cut the middle out. its 100% welded i just took the pic while i was waiting for the metal to cool.
(https://i.imgur.com/wufIKdM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N4eX1bA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RVYSYuq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aMphllB.jpg)
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Love this build and continuous updates :noel:
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made brackets for my passenger seat. who needs a box and pan brake when you have a harbor freight bead roller, piece of square tube, some clamps and some big ass hammers? the cross peen is 100% steel(handle is almost solid and is welded to the head) the shiny hammer is lead and has a 5 lb head.
(https://i.imgur.com/vWdG6v1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bHinVVR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SuD7Nk9.jpg)
it wasnt until i mounted the new one that i saw how different the seats were... i waited too long between getting my drivers seat to ordering the passenger seat. the original seat has been discontinued and was replaced with the updated version. dude at summit said it was the direct replacement and even took the same seat cover(which is true)even though it was a half inch wider. but visually they are noticeably different even with the covers on.
(https://i.imgur.com/apk4N0H.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2ImFn1M.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZsTBMWM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZHWSytk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JPD84d9.jpg)
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another drop in the bucket... one of these days it will be full. battery tray made of 10ga for the vertical and 16ga with a rolled front edge for the horizontal. my fat ass can use it as a step so its plenty good to hold my tiny little battery. i cut some of the cross supports out of the bed to tuck it up high enough that it can't be seen unless you're laying on the ground.
(https://i.imgur.com/TiRXnvY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/esaVQNq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/z2j8ecq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vtdJIET.jpg)
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i picked up a Porsche 986 brake line bulk head connector after noticing one on a customers car. cleans un the lines that no one will ever see. but i know they're there and that's what matters most.
before
(https://i.imgur.com/8NfKyWU.jpg)
after...oooohhhh ahhhhhh so nice
(https://i.imgur.com/jiwjAXa.jpg)
before
(https://i.imgur.com/iNLjXDY.jpg)
after
(https://i.imgur.com/C5yUSMN.jpg)
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it has been a really long time since me last post but im not giving up on this truck. I finally got some time to work on it. brakes are 100% done. i had to remake some of the lines do to my garbage flaring ability. everything is bled. pedals are in. the clutch pedal had to be completely redesigned cause i thought i had more space. it looks like an aborted fetus but it works. the brake reservoir hoses had to be replaced because brake fluid breaks down vinyl. im now using clear pvc hoses which im told will work.
(https://i.imgur.com/64mBeMs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1EjVyMD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CJuUtvt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PNErv5Y.jpg)
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Solid!
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more progress!!!!!
got the fuse and relay boxes mounted, installed the blower resistor pack into the blower housing. wired everything together really quick on the bench to make sure it all worked.
(https://i.imgur.com/RLvyatC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/u2JHP3y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zLsJVgu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/o7GjuOF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/n3bWIT0.jpg)
for the first time the trans is connected to the rear end via a custom driveshaft
(https://i.imgur.com/nnhIcNe.jpg)
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i got frustrated pulling apart a body harness so i decided to get some work done on the hvac. these little contour things work ok. i got a cheap one off of amazon so i didn't expect much from it. the pins are all floppy and springy so you need to push evenly and straight. next im hoping to mount the ecu behind the fuse boxes, mount the flex fuel sensor, and start making a harness.
(https://i.imgur.com/HusXszV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7sK40h2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Tvwiwkb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1tQC0bu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/imdX4pj.jpg)
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So much custom work...... crazy amount of hours. Keep it up!
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notched the bed support to clear my fuel system. filter on the outlet and flex fuel sensor on the return.
(https://i.imgur.com/CqaJexk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IQImWui.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0F2GG1u.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aHp1R1f.jpg)
getting my power and ground sorted. there is enough positive cable to be able to take the battery out of the tray and set it on the ground with it still connected. im also putting a jump point under the hood just in case. the bulkhead connector will be for all my lights, fuel pump, and flex fuel sensor. there will be extra terminals for accessories later.
(https://i.imgur.com/cqnJCBv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Eh5au5m.jpg)
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Damn I was wondering the other day what had happen to this thing. Forgot to check back in, looking great. Is it running yet? :noel:
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Not running yet, still haven't made any notable progress on the wiring. Making that a priority in my free time
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ive been slowly making progress lately. wiring for the cab is getting sorted out. i have functioning wiring to the ignition switch, turn signals, brake lights, and headlights. i mounted switches and return springs to finish up my pedals.
(https://i.imgur.com/xUhOGwK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QIYz8Ig.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/odVo0qy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wyhGxys.jpg)
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Getting more work in. Im not a fan of all this wiring. its not so much the actual crimping and soldering as much as it is the planning of the routing and positions of the components.
(https://i.imgur.com/pWhqfjX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rjEfaa5.jpg)
ordered up some stainless from burnsstainless.com . one for charge pipe, one for radiator hose, and one for heater line. my harbor freight bead roller does a decent job on this thick tube.
(https://i.imgur.com/dMXH3rG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pj37ZfM.jpg)
both charge pipes are done. BOV is installed along with the IAT sensor. block off plate installed to block off the SR20 idle air passage.
(https://i.imgur.com/Kpv39yy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/awLczDw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/of7c1vZ.jpg)
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Digging this so much
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another drop in the bucket... i mounted my idle air controller and the map sensor to the bottom of my intake manifold. I also finished my fuel rail mount. All that's left is to find a place to mount my boost controller and i can start to put togeher my wiring harness.
(https://i.imgur.com/HGYE88A.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/l9IG8gJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4DsBJ4i.jpg[img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/0Nj8fUv.jpg)
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More wiring and other things. found out that filter i have on my iac either needs to have a check valve in it or i need to get rid of it and plumb it into the intake before the throttle body. Stepper iac's dont close fully and it will cause a big boost leak if i dont. i do like the look of the filter poking out so im probably going to get or make a check valve.
(https://i.imgur.com/gD5pczr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rnj5siR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Tm0MbSL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NGx5gOb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/v0g6IbH.jpg)
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looks like im retarded and got the wrong idle air controller. i needed a pwm but got a stepper motor set up instead. to use the stepper setup i would need to lose 4 of my relay controls from my ms3x. im cutting my losses and just going with an 01 ford mustang pwm iac and making my own block.
(https://i.imgur.com/D5lw5cB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WCWNYSc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HqlcTU3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Qs6EKgy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/68UIrrq.jpg)
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small update: tail lights are just about finished. i gutted the stock tail lights and am sticking some cheap 6" oval trailer lights inside them. im gonna sandblast and paint them at some point and try to polish the insides. the rest of the wiring is slowly but surely coming getting there
(https://i.imgur.com/dGdpCkE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ODji1xg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EvEwgHN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OfBUZsL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hxQpNm8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/chuUXy7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oJAFFx5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rJjWwT7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/t5GTXey.jpg)
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I took advantage of my time off for christmas and sorted out the majority of my cooling system. Upper and lower radiator hoses and heater lines are all in place. Upper radiator mount is finally done. The only part left in the cooling system is the lines to and from my wastegate.
(https://i.imgur.com/f72vPMC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zQwTU61.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gpw7Iru.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RmRn9wQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XU5IFWd.jpg)
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Solid
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finally found more racetruck time. picked up a fusion5 windows 10 tablet and put tuner studio on it. started wiring up the engine today, i have tps, clt, iat, boost controller, idle controller, injectors, and map sensor all wired up in that bundle of crap under the intake. hopefully tomorrow ill get the coils, and miata cam/crank cas sensor hooked up. im still trying to sort out where i want my a/c receiver dryer mounted so i can wire up the a/c control.
(https://i.imgur.com/JL0ao1u.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/v1EbS6q.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QfNRbkD.jpg)
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The only thing I hate, and I mean really hate about this thread/build, is how lazy this makes me look and feel.
Damn I got to get fab game up.
Love all the picts and work you put into this build. :noel:
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Digging it. Fapworthy.
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my goal was to drive it on my birthday(may 30th) kinda felt impossible when i fucked up my knee and spent 5 months on crutches(november through march). i still cant kneel down on my right knee but i can make do on a little step stool. i kinda luck out being the manager of the shop cause i can stay as late as i want and with this covid shit we've been hella slow lately so im able to mess with it when there is nothing to do. me and the owner of the shop are seeing whose shit box starts first. his 2005 sprinter with an ML55 AMG drive train or my courier
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more progress toady(and yesterday) filler neck fabrication is complete. i ordered all hoses to connect everything. finding E85 compatible filler neck stuff is a pain, i needed 6 inches of 1", 4 inches of 2" and 6 feet of 5/8" so it will get here when it gets here. All the engine wiring is done except the wideband innovate LC-1. I ran the ABS sensor wires into the cab but not sure how to use the ford 8.8 abs sensor signal to make a PPM signal for the ms3pro yet.
(https://i.imgur.com/QYAlNCa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GlkovLg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cg1UDAB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0XWXgG0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UEQu8TU.jpg)
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his 2005 sprinter with an ML55 AMG drive train or my courier
I love to see the courier finish 1st, but any build info on that sprinter?
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my boss picked it up from a customer that blew the engine and didnt want to fix it. He owns the Mercedes sop i work at. its a 2005 sprinter, those diesels are not very reliable and are very expensive so after talking about different swaps we came to this one. the transmission is a type6 verient (same as ml55) with california smog laws same year and newer engines can be swapped and smog able. swapped internals of the ml55 trans into the sprinter case using the ml55 bell housing to keep the sprinter driveshaft and mounts. stuck a short block on the trans with a oil pan and started cutting until we had enough room for engine mounts. we used s600 mounts cause they are flat on top and bottom. after mounts were made we started hacking up the firewall until the heads and valve covers fit. My boss has been splicing the two harness together. we are using the engine computer, trans computer, key, and drive authorization control unit from the same ml55 so it will operate as a ML55 if we can get the abs to communicate wheel speed over CAN bus. if not we will probably swap that too.
(https://i.imgur.com/xnd9tqi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qaPQak3.jpg)
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fits like a glove :noel:
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Like OJs glove in court maybe lol
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fuel tank filler done, dw400 pump installed, it dwarfs the dw200 out of my e85 1988 mazda 323. got the fuel level sender wired to ms3x. i also started mocking up my throttle cable but feel retarded cause i cant make it work like i wanted so i wont post pics till im done.
(https://i.imgur.com/vbzFg3x.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mm8Bh5X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ltFHFcW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Kk8bj5n.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6MWVQ1A.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JsxH2m3.jpg)
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im not a fan of the looks but it will function properly. fuel pressure regulator is installed on the frame rail. flex fuel sensor is relocated and rewired. nylon vacuum line will be in on monday to connect the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold. smoked checked the completed fuel system and there are zero leaks!
parts that should be here in a week or so:
JBPerf VR Conditioner circuit to convert abs signal on rear axle to a usable speed signal
-6AN fuel lines to connect chassis to fuel rail
-4AN oil feed to turbo with fittings
-10AN turbo drain line with fittings
1/2 NPT tap and drill bit to punch a hole in my block for turbo drain
(https://i.imgur.com/EE7SjJI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AeM2BfK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6qRBzCr.jpg)
things left to do:
make an accelerator pedal that works
fit a/c receiver dryer
wire a/c cycling switch on receiver dryer
make a/c lines
attach ebrake cables to hand brake lever
build shift lever
turbo oil feed
drill hole in side of block and tap with 1/2NPT for turbo drain
turbo oil drain
exhaust and muffler
pressure/coolant lines to wastegate
after running/driving at full weight: get it on corner scales to order springs(currently on spacer sleeves)
im sure thers more...
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after some dicking around tunerstudio i realized the blazer fuel sender is shit. its too low of resolution, 35-90ohms, i was gonna go with a checy one but they are 40-250ohms, then i found for whatever reason dodge is 50-1000ohms. i picked up a sender from a 2012 flexfuel 3.6 charger. super smooth fuel level readings that dont jump all over when running the level sensor stop to stop. install was pretty straight forward, cut and bent the stock level sensor mount and used stainless saftey wire to hold it in place. i did need to bend and reverse the elbow on the float wire to fit it in the tank cause i mounted it upside down(not pictured)
(https://i.imgur.com/7P3Qeu7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pYYXhN4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/akZOub2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nUNa7Be.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0TCXeRs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MXe17O5.jpg)
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I was finally convinced to buy real suspension for the #superterd. Some QA1 DD402s ill be reworking the mounts and get them installed this weekend. i did finally finish the gas pedal and started shaving off every other tooth on my 108 tooth abs ring to get the pulses per mile low enough for the MS3X to read my speed accurately. My VR conditioner also showed up so ill be wiring that in too.
(https://i.imgur.com/ubenjAQ.jpg)
very low tech cable retainer, cable end is held stationary and the housing is pulled because the cable needs to come out of the firewall on the passenger side.
(https://i.imgur.com/5BMJLCF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yI1ec8Q.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6mmiX7k.jpg)
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forgot some pics: radiator lower support is finished and my VR conditioner board
(https://i.imgur.com/jU0uLSX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BSrFS4R.jpg)
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Digging this.
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painted the engine bay for a little rust protection. im trying to get one small thing done after work everyday and save the big stuff for the weekends so i dont burn myself out when im so close to driving it
(https://i.imgur.com/vvim83Y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/opOkpHo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zWUh8RD.jpg)
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painted the engine bay for a little rust protection. im trying to get one small thing done after work everyday and save the big stuff for the weekends so i dont burn myself out when im so close to driving it
Solid plan
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The Truck is finally sitting on its own springs under its own weight. The front mounts need to be gusseted in still. The block is drilled and tapped for my -10 AN turbo drain, all 54 extra teeth have been cut off of the ABS sensor wheel to bring the pulses per mile into the usable range, JBPerf VR conditioner circuit is wired in and installed in an old wall charger as a protective case. Started working on my dashboard lay out.
(https://i.imgur.com/HZYWd8V.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YFcPGgI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IqFTDWt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/L9HhhmL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5mxWho9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AdY8GkA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MzBQDiv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tIv9hAl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5hjOtpF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/F6WnU4u.jpg)
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fancy waste gate lines
(https://i.imgur.com/cuUoacj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gzfbzGk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LiiO0UI.jpg)
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Damn, looks sweet!
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more progress!!!!!
finished all the hose routing under the intake manifold, all wastegate boost/coolant lines are in their proper place, thermostat is installed, heater hose to the heater core is installed, the other one is in the process of being completed. the ront coil over mounts have been reinforced with more 1/4" plate. i pulled the hot side off of the turbo and sealed up the internal gate holes. A 1/2 NPT tap is just about perfect for the factory hole(i still drilled it out before tapping). this was the 3rd time that tap was used and it was still a huge pain in the ass. anything smaller than that 1/2" breaker bar wouldnt move it. Im still waiting on some hose fittings so i can run the oil pressure and drain lines to the turbo.
(https://i.imgur.com/vewhJ43.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kgP7G8t.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6w86Goj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qsYPYfC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Uqfmie1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/m290aZR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/b5bbknG.jpg)
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Getting closer
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Hell ya!!
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Oh yes! I'm excited to see this thing ripping!
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It started today! Still alot more to do before driving and tuning but its closer! My buddy pointed out my messed up trigger settings, one screenshot and it fired up!
https://youtu.be/Ga_YlBGshww
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the hard part of the exhaust is done, not sure how its gonna exit the bed yet. factory fuel pump wiring burned up in less than an hour trying to power a dw400 pump. sorted all the wiring under the passenger seat. as far as i can tell everything works like it should. ill have parts from summit tuesday to fix the pump wiring.
(https://i.imgur.com/bkYwCAk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YScUIUJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NgOF0oI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ob3s8vo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/u0xwU8G.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xG7FjAA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aENMWZb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SeERSrj.jpg)
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fixed the fuel pump wiring with an awesome pass-through from summit racing. should be no further problems now that its 14ga straight to the pump
(https://i.imgur.com/qE88dU4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FwWvR9J.jpg)
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looks way better than my gobs of RTV smeared around a hole with wires pulled through, almost tempted to replace mine.
So who's closer you or your boss?
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I am lol, i can drive around the parking lot in mine, his still doesn't run, he's got too many other projects going on
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I use the same type of pass thru in my latest twincharge build except I use 2, 1 for each 12 wire to a 450lph pump on modified stock hanger. :noel:
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replaced the straight pipe with a 30" glass pack. decided on a simple turnout/down rather the an overly complicated over the frame rail design i was thinking about. also got my coolant reservoir from amazon. made a bracket and have been trying to figure out where is gonna be mounted.
(https://i.imgur.com/Mr7RkWZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5vDGOAb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/56qBvm5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CHrggT4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JdJTG8G.jpg)
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Sexy!
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O0
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took it out for a short drive with my tuner. base map is dialed and very smooth. waiting on a roll cage, seat belts, and an alignment before doing any wot pulls. the coolant temp would climb while moving probably due to lack of radiator ducting and the cheap ass fan i put in.
cheap fan replaced with a 12" 1300cfm Spal. and despite it being 10* warmer out the coolant was 10* cooler when cruising around 45mph. Probably going to completely seal it with some sort of tape in the future to make 100% of the air pass through the radiator.
(https://i.imgur.com/Yz4orX7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dSgdYnK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VAGf03E.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IjcDbeK.jpg)
got my ebrake sorted with a mis match of stock explorer parts, escort parts, and a homemade plate. its still a bit weak due to the hand brake having way less cable travel than the factory foot brake. ill be working on a bigger radius wheel to go in the hand brake in the future.
(https://i.imgur.com/5fazAnc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5fazAnc.jpg)
installed my mid 80s 300zx turbo marker lights installed. its weird how most Japanese marker lights have the same foot print. even weirder that my local napa actually had the right clips and screws to install them.
(https://i.imgur.com/XLfPJLe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fZsOoJb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/woxWHTs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dtlNH3K.jpg[url][/url])
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drive video and walk around are on vladituned's instagram
https://www.instagram.com/vladituned/?utm_source=ig_embed (https://www.instagram.com/vladituned/?utm_source=ig_embed)
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Yes!
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In hopes of keeping my fillings in my teeth I bought a 1.75" 40A durometer rod to make new motor mounts. I'm currently using 95A leaf spring bushings and they vibrate alot. I cut the ends off the poly to keep a soldish stop to keep the engine from walking forward or back. it was way easier to put the poly rod into the mount, cut it flush then drill it than trying to hold onto it.
(https://i.imgur.com/lUR9ybC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OBzi7Pf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PMv5lSm.jpg)
perfectly timed text message for the awesome sound effect
https://youtu.be/c4Q0SuEiAWo
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ive been getting quite a bit done, just haven't been posting.
cleaned up and painted my escort zx2 center console.
(https://i.imgur.com/tBWppVd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nHKQGHH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HKCcLyP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/l4yPGbH.jpg)
fatmat rattle trap has been installed everywhere and its still hella loud
(https://i.imgur.com/VoYVskn.jpg)
my K&N ripped off my turbo so i had to make a front end support
(https://i.imgur.com/z2BUqb4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3FPiQKV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RKln8Fs.jpg)
painted the front end behind the grill and installed the grill. i have a mazda b1600 grill on the way so it will be converted to 4x 5 3/4 headlights to replace the 2 7" ones
(https://i.imgur.com/BsHzlWb.jpg)
been cutting and bending the instrument cluster hole to fit the tablet better
(https://i.imgur.com/XPHn5kz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/45SDUac.jpg)
wrapped the exhaust to keep the floor temp down
(https://i.imgur.com/xVRa2lT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/T0T6Vai.jpg)
painted the valve cover
(https://i.imgur.com/qVx9wdi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZnetBH7.jpg)
added air flow flaps for the radiator fan housing, they open while driving and seal closed when the fan kicks on
(https://i.imgur.com/x4E4sq3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ixRxiTT.jpg)
finally added the temporary seat belts until the cage gets installed and i can mount proper harnesses
(https://i.imgur.com/EsSIf9k.jpg)
i had to cut a bunch more teeth off of my abs sensor ring cause it was maxing out my VR conditioner at 40mph. started at 108 teeth down to 54 teeth, now its at 9 teeth.
before
(https://i.imgur.com/o5zjYUI.jpg)
after
(https://i.imgur.com/PWW9YrM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dM5caX3.jpg)
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so freaking sick!
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more updates:
3.73 gears replaced with ford racing 3.31s all new bearings and seals. i think i pin pointed the loud howl from the rear end, carrier bearing races are toast. i did luck out so much when the factory shims lined up the ring and pinion perfectly. its a fun cruiser so far, the 3.31s dropped my freeway rpms to 2600@70mph and 2nd gear hits 7k rev limit @65mph
(https://i.imgur.com/WxQe6yn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yZpUI74.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TCBqICs.jpg)
Wide open throttle tune got done friday night so its been fun learning how to drive a semi quick rwd vehicle im having issues with my innovate LC-1 and my tuner told me to "throw it in the trash where it belongs). my aem uego will be here tuesday. Until then i only get single digit spark advance until he can trust my AFR readings are correct.
now that the wastegate is opening i had a need to finish the dump
(https://i.imgur.com/MRZDTKM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/g3ytKyo.jpg)
not truck related but i bought an overpowered lever action nerf gun off a guy on etsy and me and my roommate were seeing how bad it hurts. it stings a bit from 20ish feet
(https://i.imgur.com/RCA1I8I.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/d0CTD4X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lAD5fjE.jpg)
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This happened on my way to work this morning, words can't describe how so fucking angry I am that people can't drive
(https://i.imgur.com/SjUKh1G.jpg)
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DAMNIT
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Fuck! I was waiting for the pictures to load and all I could think was "please don't be totaled" that sucks ass but it looks fixable at least.
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Damn, and that fender is probably hard to find too. :'(
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almost a year of updates:
too many pops and bangs blew my muffler off
(https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/1500x2000/hmvlpc1_709bef5542606ea4e4709d0d5a685c735a97d33b.jpeg)
2003 Mercedes ML500 is my tow vehicle lol got the truck home on a 10 1/2 hour round trip to pick up the parts truck
(https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1504/m8lxspy_6720b11c6812bab946f86ff26e430a7f160d86c5.jpeg)
(https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1504/utf1ufi_7016f9f33c64a9be4155f859182754b5f4659a27.jpeg)
new flow master muffler installed
(https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1504/wlz4rgp_133b180be23e54ac690a25690c63aa1af3af9070.jpg)
(https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/1500x2000/x5lkrnn_b5ce44236cd7bca8d7f54f2f5ac574b081110acc.jpg)
I think i have finally found a clutch solution. after being denied by at least 4 "custom" clutch/flywheel manufactures that its not some thing they could or would do i had given up and came to the realization that i was gonna have to make my own flywheel. so i started looking at different 2 disc setups to see what would work best and be easiest for my limited machining skills. i came across a quartermaster 7.25" dual disc for an RX7 turbo that is rated at a ridiculous 1000ftlbs of torque. i found it on website called Mazdatrix that specializes in performance RX-7s and RX-8s and has custom flywheels listed so i gave them a call. i talked to a guy names Dave that was very knowledgeable about the clutches and flywheels they have listed and referred me to the guy that designed and makes their flywheels at Aasco Motorsports in southern California. After about 20 mins on the phone he had enough info to say that he could definitely make the flywheel i needed. The downside is that its gonna take a month or two to make but its only cost me $700-$800 for a one off flywheel built to the exact specs so i wont need a flywheel spacer, made out of steel, and have the recess and holes drilled to accept 7.25" inserts to avoid ever having to machine the flywheel when i replace the clutch in the future. im trying not to get too excited before i have the parts in front of me but its looking very promising. Not thrilled at shelling out almost another $2000 for a clutch and flywheel but considering its a one off custom application that will hold more torque than ill ever come close to making im happy.
Making more progress. unfortunately the truck will be down for a month or so until the new flywheel is built and returned with the dual disc rx7 rally clutch. while its down I have some work to do. I pulled the fenders and started with rust treatment on the cab, I changed the HVAC intake from engine bay to the fender, I'm still working on making a cabin filter that goes in the fender to keep crap from blowing in my eyes with the a/c on.
(https://i.imgur.com/v3CwqL6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Vqa4qz4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vWCrhXY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vWCrhXY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zUPefhA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RFfer1A.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zRFF6kr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/POaz3bZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DZMgIE0.jpg)
finally got my clutch!!!!!!! it arrived yesterday, got the tranny back in today, gonna finish it up and get it running in the morning so i can see how god awful its gonna be to drive this thing. nothing like a $150 engine sporting an almost $2000 clutch
I can't thank Vince at Aasco Motorsports enough for all the time and effort that went into designing and machining this beautiful piece of awesomeness.
(https://i.imgur.com/BpkotvF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ULUkN5W.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/89oaBSb.jpg)
Reworked my brake and clutch pedals for a little bit higher leverage ratio. clutch now feels great with no more stalling on take off. brake pedal got about 2" longer and I had to massage the wheel well for clearance of the longer clutch pedal.
(https://i.imgur.com/ENtpWCS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/c5XnBSE.jpg)
I also found a fix for a problem no one else seems to have. I'm not a fan of AN fittings cause they require harder to find materials and tools to make the lines and don't looks as clean to me as nicely bent steel lines. The problem I ran into was that the clutchmasters FCV-2000 flow control valve only comes with a -3AN fittings. The threads in the valve itself are 3/8-24. I couldn't find anyplace that makes a 3/8-24 to a metric bubble flare m10-1.0 standard fitting that will match every other brake/clutch line in my truck. I was being told by everyone, including clutchmasters, that the only way was to get the -3AN to metric bubble flare adapter and use a -3AN to -3AN coupler making the valve twice as long and adding extra potential point for the system to leak. while on hold with a local hydraulics company to see if they had a solution I was playing with the valve and fittings and accidentally screwed the fitting in backwards. Turns out a -3AN has 3/8-24 threads. So I picked a pair of -3AN to bubble flare adapters, put them in the lathe at work, and cut them to the exact dimensions as the original fitting. I'm not sure that was even necessary but I have access to a lathe and it took a few mins each.
(https://i.imgur.com/WZQlaXO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/868ogSh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PHYQFXV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DLmzRa7.jpg)
The race truck is getting a bigger radiator and fitted for A/C this weekend.
(https://i.imgur.com/vkapWEu.jpg)
new bigger radiator is installed, a/c condenser is installed. I had to make some hose adapters cause the engine is 1.25" hoses and the upper on the radiator is 1.5" and the lower is 1.75"
size difference. new on left
(https://i.imgur.com/FjYomOi.jpg)
condenser mounted with foam and fan mounts
(https://i.imgur.com/JXpfGk3.jpg)
i had to cut out the existing mounts and make new upper and lower mounts. there's a cross brace on the lower mount to protect the radiator
(https://i.imgur.com/zuiN8Hf.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/72fvBrk)
the pile of hoses and the adapters needed to make them fit
(https://i.imgur.com/p5RVZ7t.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZKx32VD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BSNAYAO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tOCqY9i.jpg)
I had to build my own bump steer kit cause no one has one in stock and I didn't want to wait until mid July for one to get shipped to me. ball joint studs from speedway, 3/4 Heim joints from speedway, misalignment spacers from Ruff stuff 4x4 shop, grade 8 bolts from ace hardware. even after buying a tap it was still cheaper than a complete kit.
(https://i.imgur.com/h6nSGnE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/D4LkOW9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ADDJKAl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/a82rdVU.jpg)
Picked up some Cobra wheels 17x9s 245/40/17s up front and 17x10.5s 275/40/17s in the back. The fronts fit perfectly after i took the sway bar out. it was hitting the oversized tie rod ends and needed to be reworked anyways, the rears may need some flares or something cause they stick out really far.
(https://i.imgur.com/BjSIdWf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2tUvBJ1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/B4UyQKu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DnxK8EZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BHsDWZI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ail97lt.jpg)
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went to the track Wednesday to get some times but on the way to the track the release fork said no. I think its because I set my clutch pedal limiter stop too low and the clutch and slave are stronger than the arm. new one is ordered from Mazda, if it happens again I'm going hydraulic throw out bearing.
(https://i.imgur.com/gQ1F1zk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lY0molD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z5jgTbF.jpg)
Yea, had to drop the trans, but its already replaced , I welded a plate to the back of the new one to strengthen it. Then went tuning on 28psi and E85 thanks to 18psi and after making all the power the rear freeze plugs on the left side ejected :( seems like the engine is unharmed but I have to wait til the sleeve retainer cures before I know for sure.
https://youtube.com/shorts/lnkxBjvTz18?feature=share (https://youtube.com/shorts/lnkxBjvTz18?feature=share)
I was so sick of the vibration I finally cut out the poly engine and transmission mounts and replaced them with rear engine mounts. I chose 2005 Mercedes S600 mounts. I figured if they can hold the weight and torque of a twin turbo V12 they will do just fine in my truck. I manage a Mercedes repair shop so the cost on the parts is super cheap. 90% of the engine vibration is gone but its still louder than I was hoping for. I need to pull the windshield so i can have access to the back of the dash to finish sound proofing the firewall and finish the cluster bezel. I also need to get all the A/C lines made and get that all working, There are so many things that need to be finished still.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZkekQqq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/J59irgb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6GsEbHv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bVHhj8S.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aA66nf8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xWX3KWe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/A1yEXJ8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/emxH5AL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pfBxQO1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/h1Dx5Kq.jpg)
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Ive been fighting a weird overheat issue since day one and finally got to the bottom of it, #1 cylinder head gasket was really bad. and since i put my clt on the front of the engine i was reading boiling coolant from the blown head gasket. i replaced the head with a spare i had and relocated the clt sensor to the thermostat housing where it should have been in the first place. coolant temps are now 194*F on the freeway when its 105*F outside. i wrapped the turbo manifold after it burned up my alternator. i finished the bracket for the a/c lines to the expansion valve. hoping to have a/c in the next week or two
(https://i.imgur.com/siF4zsO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lt0NFtk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WyEExFi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/87MD6b7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ozJzjjA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tK18GSe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3JnTlhD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KY2gYQ6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8arwyQV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hbHV7z8.jpg)
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Loving this build, lots of detail, and work :noel:
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Fuck yes. Missed this thing.
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truck is sick
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Air conditioning is in and working!!!! I'm still messing with how much to charge it with. I think I can get it to or below 40*F at the center vents with some tweaking. I was running out of time and it was over 100*F in the shop so I was ok with only 50*F at the center vent. I was also made aware that since the head gasket was replaced 28psi has maxed out my 1000cc injectors on E85. Time for more expensive upgrades :(
(https://i.imgur.com/OchhQKY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ECMQcd4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/D1Xt69B.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qSBjFcW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CyYxpNL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/meOrSsL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NwydylK.jpg)
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Blew another head gasket, ejected another freeze plug, and warped another head so bad that coolant pours out of the rear of the head gasket. Decided its finally time to commit to fully building a motor. I had to order custom MLS head gaskets from gaskets-to-go in Thailand. My Pauter rods just showed up today, looking though all the specs of Wiseco pistons to find something that will work cause they are 4-6 months to have a set custom made.
(https://i.imgur.com/JHC8Fne.jpg)
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picture dump and update, MLS head gaskets arrived, and are surviving so far. boost turned down to 22psi to keep the duty cycle on the 1000CC injectors under 95%. Rods and pistons are at the machine shop getting fitted into the block. New oil pump arrived and is waiting on the machine shop to finish the motor. Injector Dynamics 1700cc injectors are also awaiting the new motor. Bought a square set of 17x10.5" mustang wheels wrapped in 275/40/17s. widened the front end to make the front tires stick out as much as the rears. Cutting out everything that will rub the tire. Fender flares are waiting for me to finish the suspension again and set new ride height before being welded on.
(https://i.imgur.com/PozSCvr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JCbSwmu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/enR56r1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wXFWcZP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uEvMLtR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mynnWTD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5tqTiRo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kxjYnD1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pFZbxAa.jpg)
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Loving this update, the fender clearance looks tight!!
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Damn that’s a cool project
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The fender is getting cut out for flares as soon as I decide it's all final ride height
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The fender is getting cut out for flares as soon as I decide it's all final ride height
Looks like this truck will have not a single panel unmodified :noel:
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I shifted focus from suspension to the dash this weekend. After a very very long time trying to figure out how to secure my tablet cluster my brother had the awesome idea to use a push to open latch and have it fold down and just pull the tablet out of the front through the steering wheel. it needs to be a reasonably quick release to access to my brake/clutch reservoir and to remove the tablet for charging and anti-theft.
(https://i.imgur.com/I1BSoNh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jLe2tLF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3p3cbhR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/m6m4QdU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9pdooEa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3V3itXP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zdyBFqe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vT0pYcs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/d43xHon.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VGifwPm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OKCUpGr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rOzNZ55.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jxbuEQ8.jpg)
I also got my new bullet center caps
(https://i.imgur.com/tbYWGN8.jpg)
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dash is painted, headlight switch and indicator is moved to center vents, all I have left is to install turn signal indicators and figure out what I'm gonna do to connect the center vent to the center console.
(https://i.imgur.com/DVW7FRW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LpxU9xo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sk6LoKC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DykYRnJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/904Fa1M.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DDC6PIy.jpg)
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Nice the 1st picts of the digital dash look like it might be loose fit.
But latest picts Dash looks really good. :noel:
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Mother of God i love this truck!
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Getting closer to being finished, floors welded back in, flares tacked on, alignment done. fender mirrors going on tomorrow. gonna finish welding the flares on and blending them in over the next week. still need some adjustments cause the front rubs a little at full lock over bumps. either gonna roll the flares a little or raise the front up 1/8"- 1/4". welded studs into the dust cap to fit the center cap spikes and made some straps that go around the front dust caps in case the spikes work them loose. i also had to make spacers for the steering rack to keep the 17x10.5s from rubbing the control arm at full lock.
(https://i.imgur.com/qAFi4aX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TBpthjZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uIaJApR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CU1W1iW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YWRdPc4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/e33vcWU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zuBhCVu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/E5FXgoH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zDZCbCJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/08uHsyt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sWJtV2B.jpg[img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/mddQpGX.jpg)
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good job on the flares they look good and are just tacked :noel:
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For some reason I though you already had the flares, that looks aggressive as fuck. :noel: :noel: :noel: :noel:
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Fender mirrors are on. Took it out to cars and coffee in Folsom to show it off with my buddy's 68 Datsun wagon. I forgot how to drive lowered cars and mashed my wheel into my fender turning into a driveway. Luckily my buddy's dad is an amazing body man and hammered it back straight in less than an hour. Watching him take out that dent and making everything smooth was mind blowing.
(https://i.imgur.com/16rhYf0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/v9d6mYn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rZCXGR4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7BWhGXm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fYwF0YH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TvvPo1P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1k22bP0.jpg)
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Finally installed the Injector Dynamics ID1700s. The injector buckets for the 1700s were too big to fit in the manifold adapters for the 1000s so instead of adapters on adapters on adapters I made 1 piece adapter buckets. Took all the relevant measurements off each part and made it fit. im no machinist but i got all the sealing surfaces within .001". the depths are a bit looser cause i dont have a dial indicator that has more than 10mm of travel so i coudnt be super precise but they are within .020"
(https://i.imgur.com/koo8n1P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zKACDqv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fmykksS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6MgJcHU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RymwqgQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qoZu9Q0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/w1Qkzyv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tBW14Eb.jpg)
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Sooo nice :noel:
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With all the one-off parts and custom work done to this thing it's easy to forget the basics when trouble shooting. It's been cutting out under boost once in a while and only little bits at a time. Some pulls would be flawless. Sent data logs to @vladituned and he pointed out I had a sync loss with my cam sensor and a really nosey TPS signal. I replaced the CAS cause the one that was in there is coming up on its 30th birthday. Would still break up but had no more camshaft sync errors. I swapped the TPS and the signal is now where it should be. All spark plugs looked fine. Smoke checked in intake and the manifold had a massive leak at the flange Turned out to be the liquid gasket that I used for my intake manifold gasket gets dissolved by E85 and the unevenness in the flange blew it out. Manifold is now nice and flat and going back together.
(https://i.imgur.com/LXQ3CQU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JZckV0e.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lxfx5HH.jpg)
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paper gasket or back to liquid this go around ?
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I'm using the coated metal stock gaskets, SR20DET on the manifold side and Kia Sportage on the engine side
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(https://i.imgur.com/BhoLmho.jpeg)
Looks pretty light and balanced
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Wow :noel:
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Wicked!
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With the weather so nice and car shows back in action I'm getting motivated to finish this terd. Built some new exhaust after work today, it eliminated almost all of my droning noise by putting it out the back of the truck. i even picked up a few inches of ground clearance. Welded the left bed panel back in for filler neck clearance. Still need to build my axle hump to seal it in. Picked up some Audi R8 coils for all the spark. those will be going in sometime this week.
(https://i.imgur.com/rnQp5FA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NoKqG3m.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GI8ZqQx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PVb6TAz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6NWsml1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/o6L89wN.jpg)
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Installed the R8 coils. Definitely should have done more research first. I was unaware that it required an additional circuit be added to my MS3X to run them at full potential.. Huge thanks to the guys on MT.net for coming through with all the info needed for install.
(https://i.imgur.com/Qugtoc2.jpg)
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Updated the MS3X internal wiring with FET drivers for R8 coil hottness.
(https://i.imgur.com/032W9K4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2Rm4xDi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VDV00D0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BBKvuhw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Mo49UJV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mMck2hO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Wc5FIzC.jpg)
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Mapdaddy 4bar sensor installed. machined out the "kia motors" from the valve cover and am having interchangeable stainless steel inserts made.
(https://i.imgur.com/YuVMoAp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/w1WmReN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vqOC3F9.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/2cVkstT.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/OubgCAW.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/RV6tBho.png)
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Looking good, makes feel lazy with my projects :noel:
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🔥🔥🔥 O0 this build gets better by the minute
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After watching people immediately lose interest with my motor after seeing "Kia Motors" on my valve cover I decided to shave it off of a spare one I have laying around and have laser cut interchangeable plates made. TheGreatMetalShop on Etsy did such an awesome job on my keychain and I cant wait for these to come in. Now I need to figure out what color I want to paint my valve cover.
(https://i.imgur.com/SPOWjp8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DImNLM4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FJkjSa9.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/FJkjSa9.jpg)
What about RealHomeMadeTurbo or HomeMadeTurboTruck or similar?
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To be honest that never crossed my mind. I was originally just going to get a Mazda and a Ford. Then thought the #Superterd would be a good idea since that's what all my Instagram pics are under. Ain't No Bitch motorsports has been a running joke for almost 20 years. My Summit Racing account still has that as my company name which makes the day of whoever takes my phone order.
The weather is getting hotter so I'm back to thinking about how to make my air conditioning work as best as I can. It's been suggested to me to make an under body panel between the radiator and the cross member to prevent a high pressure area from the back of the radiator. So far it's looking promising. A/C on full blast, 90*F out and engine temps below 198*F at 70mph @ 3000rpm
(https://i.imgur.com/zfLcTqj.jpeg)
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As I expected TheGreatMetalShop on Etsy came though with perfect laser cuts.
(https://i.imgur.com/LaMQzYA.jpeg)
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reworked the a/c inlet to pull cold air from the front of the truck. hopefully the colder air in the colder my a/c will get. then the truck rewarded all my hard work by snapping the throttle on my way home. pretty sure the truck hates me at this point.
(https://i.imgur.com/lqePjnK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lZTuMRa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dec2kHc.jpg)
in non truck related news i fit some exhaust to my buddy's 700whp mustang
(https://imgur.com/lqqexFm)
(https://i.imgur.com/ACcJGt5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OOHINAq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FAcZQAU.jpg)
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In winter will the a/c inlet be an issue? :noel:
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not really, ill just turn the heat on. if the air gets bothersome I can block off the inlet with a flexy magnet or piece of foam
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not really, ill just turn the heat on. if the air gets bothersome I can block off the inlet with a flexy magnet or piece of foam
Sweet! :noel:
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race truck got some carpet and heat/sound insulation padding. the floor around the pedals is noticeably cooler after idling 30 min with the ac on in the garage.
(https://i.imgur.com/3THrX9x.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RCxB8ZM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/63ra541.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EhOl4jU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BzHCtek.jpg)
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Getting more work done and spending more money on parts. RohdeFab made me some pretty bad ass door panels and door pulls for a really reasonable price.
(https://i.imgur.com/r0HSH3O.jpg)
Added more vents for even better cooling and cooler A/C operation. I hate the way they look but engine temps are down 15*F. I also added the sound/heat barrier to the whole intake for the A/C fan inlet
(https://i.imgur.com/DhSVVFC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UlmwFCT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xMEcHE5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UPLyyPb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OWyFaFQ.jpg)
Trying to get the A/C to work better and found out I'm set the system up wrong. I put my low side cycling switch on the receiver dryer which is on the high side because I was thinking I plumbed it as a low side accumulator. Compressor was just staying on and freezing the expansion valve. Installed an inline port on the low side but ran into some Megasquirt control issues. I'll sort those out and get the A/C dialed in when I get back from vacation.
(https://i.imgur.com/9zKBxlE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/klE0VAS.jpg)
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Nice!! :noel: :noel: :noel:
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You're carrying this entire forum with your updates. Keep up the good work! I want to see some footage of this thing on the road
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I finally got my hands on a 1973 Mazda B1600. I like the look of the front end more than the ford version and I picked this thing up on my way back from a vacation in Oregon. The whole truck was way cheaper than I can get the lights and trim for. The Benz tows great on the freeway but only gets 11.2mpg with the truck on the trailer.
(https://i.imgur.com/VjpEbUh.jpg)
A/C update: using low side switching with out an accumulator was a pain in the ass and very inconsistent. I'm using an R12 filter dryer as a small accumulator. It helped a little but was still spiking the low side too quickly and causing erratic compressor operation. I ended up taking the seal out of the schrader valve and using it like a tiny orifice tube. it dampened the compressor cycles just enough to get the a/c to stay cold.
(https://i.imgur.com/cxUZmG8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/87C1Mak.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/C8dcaXA.jpg)
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Installed Hyperco take up springs, I was sick of having to set the rear springs every time I lifted the truck. The springs were almost the same price as getting longer coils but I'm not 100% sure what the spring rate is so I went this route. I could only find plastic centering rings so i made my own aluminum ones.
(https://i.imgur.com/jBVNbn5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Tk7XmFx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FhZcY37.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WBE6vod.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XYMdxjA.jpg)
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Crafty! ;DDD
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Got to put the beast of a homemade sheet metal brake to work, had no problem bending 38" of 16ga. I'm happy how it turned out.
(https://i.imgur.com/r8fMUiB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zpq2TFA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eKtJeaG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QaY2PLU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Mml2t8y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OLHtpyP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qBr8JtL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nCimdrL.jpg)
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O0 O0
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Wow, did you prep the hump, did you cut the sheet metal to match the ribbed floor?
Or did you just you tuck under floor edge and weld in place? can't tell in picts. :noel:
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I left 1" hanging under the bed. After it was fully welded I folded it flush to the bottom of the bed ribs to add some strength.
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I left 1" hanging under the bed. After it was fully welded I folded it flush to the bottom of the bed ribs to add some strength.
That makes since I may copy this in a future project :noel:
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Got to put the beast of a homemade sheet metal brake to work, had no problem bending 38" of 16ga. I'm happy how it turned out.
(https://i.imgur.com/r8fMUiB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zpq2TFA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eKtJeaG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QaY2PLU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Mml2t8y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OLHtpyP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qBr8JtL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nCimdrL.jpg)
Ball3r
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After waiting a full year and few days my built motor is finally done! The down side is that I forgot to drill and tap the turbo drain before sending the block out. I've never been more terrified to drill and tap anything in my entire life. It's 1/2npt in the thinnest part of the block. I was so scared it might crack the block.
(https://i.imgur.com/KQEe7wn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IYDZ3aO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3IvUQJR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Zfwgwf7.jpg)
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Nice! When is the engine going in?
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Hopefully going to pull the old motor this weekend and have the new one ready in in the next few weeks. I need to transfer some parts and hardware from the old engine and relocate the A/C condenser under the bed with its own fan.
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I had a 4 day weekend over labor day and was so excided to get this build motor in... WAS... pulled the old motor out. cleaned everything up, swapped the head studs, installed new oil pump, water pump, turbo feed and drain lines on. check check all the valve clearances on my "Freshly ported/machined" head that I paid a lot of money for and they were all over place, no worries I just need to pull lifters to see how the "custom solid lifters" are adjusted. That's when the shit show started. the "solid lifters" are nothing more than hacksawed bolts that aren't even close to smooth or flat, the oil feed port to the hydraulic lifters was not plugged on any of them, a crude channel in the bolts made sure that all the oil pressure going through the unplugged ports in the buckets was free to bleed off onto the valve. I then water tested the valves for the first time to make sure that was at least done correctly, i mean how can a machine shop screw up valves?. Almost every one pissed all over the floor. I pulled the valves and found only 3 intake and 2 exhaust valves were even machined. not a single seat had any angles cut into them and all of them looked looked almost rounded over. the unmachined valves are so worn you can visually see the wear. all the valve springs appear to be the stock double valve springs but I don't have a testing scale to confirm or deny that. The only thing about the head that looked legit is the cams the intake has a tiny bit more lift and 80* more duration @.005" and the exhaust cam has an extra .070" lift and 85* more duration @ .005". I've been scrambling to make this thing not a boat anchor but all the machine shops are a month out and I'm not 100% sure what I'm gonna do with the lifters. Do I just stay with stock hydros? do I add shims to my hla's to make them solid and pin the oil hole shut or do I spend another $1000 on a legit set of solid buckets and shim them properly.
(https://i.imgur.com/ReblrUY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uvr1340.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dJ62oeF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wR9C8IR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wFB9Hbc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vY35Lfi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/h9luVq4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MEumTiG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/p3hZFLc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HJX0l5J.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kiNdrT0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oNUkWTi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z0IVfTV.jpg[img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/2vSvrSw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rWnOf1L.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XcfvYUy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nob4uYN.jpg)
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What the fuck? Have you contact this machine shop yet?
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I bought it from a guy parting out his build. He contacted the place that built it. Petty much a "that sucks" response.
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I'm building my own solid lifters and sending the head out to be pressure tested and the valves done.
Measured the weight of a bucket and lifter full of oil and bled of air
(https://i.imgur.com/Vt7HOpq.jpg)
jig to evenly cut holes from the lifter bottom to access the oil hole for pinning as well as weight reduction
(https://i.imgur.com/pWKJWvQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/n3Eo5my.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bI70e0m.jpg)
before and after weights
(https://i.imgur.com/UsLBkA5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cygJPPt.jpg)
final weight with a 2.4mm lash spacer
(https://i.imgur.com/NOjnu8e.jpg)
using 1/16" brass rod to plug the oil holes
(https://i.imgur.com/KYDajYZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yy9cUG7.jpg)
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My main problem is that I have yet to find anything that's specifically for the FE3N. It's all measurements and see what's available for other cars. I ordered the +1 Miata BP05 valves from fab9. I'll check all measurements when they arrive before ordering springs. I measured an installed height of 33mm(ish) BP05s look like they have between a 34mm-35mm depending on source. Again looking at supertech catalog for single springs and I'm seeing the BP, RB20, Honda B18A/B, B20, RB25, VG35DET, 1JZ,2JZ, MZR 2.0,2.3,2.5, and Turbo, duratec 2.3,2.5 all have the same valve springs with an installed height between 33-35mm. Which are close enough in specs to fit the FE3N. According to my measurements The valves and springs are within the total range of the cam's 10.7mm lift. The valves are 1.4mm shorter but the Miata single springs are good for 12.9mm max lift.
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I'm building my own solid lifters and sending the head out to be pressure tested and the valves done.
Measured the weight of a bucket and lifter full of oil and bled of air
(https://i.imgur.com/Vt7HOpq.jpg)
jig to evenly cut holes from the lifter bottom to access the oil hole for pinning as well as weight reduction
(https://i.imgur.com/pWKJWvQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/n3Eo5my.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bI70e0m.jpg)
before and after weights
(https://i.imgur.com/UsLBkA5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cygJPPt.jpg)
final weight with a 2.4mm lash spacer
(https://i.imgur.com/NOjnu8e.jpg)
using 1/16" brass rod to plug the oil holes
(https://i.imgur.com/KYDajYZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yy9cUG7.jpg)
That’s some badass tinkering, I’ve never messed with diy head components #rhmt
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long time with no update. ive been having a hell of a time with imgur not working so i have no way to post pictures.
I picked up an old Rimac valve spring tester to build my cylinder head properly. it needed a little work to get going. when all said and done its within .5lb of the test spring at every height
(https://i.imgur.com/bZSm39r.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xhCO2cM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BOqxghJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xDhufie.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Gtk0sJO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2ailVL4.jpg)
i bought valves, springs, and guides. supertech had a mix up and sent me stainless valves instead of the inconel ones i ordered so im waiting on those to come in. the valve seats are ovalized so i will need to send the head out for machining.
(https://i.imgur.com/WB756QW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yKksJfQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ufvAvwJ.jpg)
Im cutting out and replacing my Mustang 2 front end. Its been hacked up too many times and needs to be replaced to look pretty. im also redoing the front engine mounts with some BMW 325i mounts to try to reduce the vibrations.
(https://i.imgur.com/c7wVVMH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rkfsTDO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eMrFQ0o.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0N3JJJu.jpg)
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Nice work, I have a feeling when you finally get done with this project you either be bored or overwhelmed with work requests!!! :noel:
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(https://i.imgur.com/y4t9k2g.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/k3RsN31.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2ZZpCbt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0y6o5ey.jpg)
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Out with the old and in with the new. It took 4 straight hours of grinding to get the frame rails smooth again. I now need to mount the steering rack so I can make the new engine mount brackets.
(https://i.imgur.com/fiC91Fm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xE6dxur.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0uMiVKy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lDIDWek.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wbkT8W6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VRIG78X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Tugf3Ss.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rqchUlV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0yGD3Eq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wf8TeRE.jpg)
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Mad fuking skills man.
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Another long weekend but i got the engine mounts done and steering done.
(https://i.imgur.com/rtpcOwE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LvXGRQP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TN8GZ4E.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/auOhuUw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mHsKlHo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/n3IuC9C.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rMktHga.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cgjfImX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/W2fKKRf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qz6XrSh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RVuAsbr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/l3PorKW.jpg)
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Is there much of the original truck left? :noel:
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Yea... The blue parts
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Finally got a hold of Rimac to get a replacement scale for my spring compressor. They said they are no longer available, so I made my own with a metal adhesive backed tape and a hacksaw blade. The head is back from the machine shop so it won't be long now until its running. finished drilling all the holes and pressing the in all the pins in the oil holes of all the buckets with my home made pliers. I put the buckets in the lathe after and turned the pins .015" below the surface. The lifter shims are only in .05mm increments so there will be a lot off polishing/sanding the shims to get all the valve clearances perfect. Oddly enough with nothing being available for these engines Gates still makes racing timing belts for them.
(https://i.imgur.com/AAUzD1q.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fHgd0xE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6ch7HSp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N9aMAXr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GZcePC9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Her5P4E.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7MxtzpA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lmn2ttR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xnen9Xl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vV9pssA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4HS0Xv8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/29kFNoN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EUKsN2L.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kfCcc7G.jpg)
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What is the last picture for timing about? :noel:
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crazy skills man :noel:
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What is the last picture for timing about? :noel:
I was so surprised that they are available and reasonably priced. no one makes anything for this engine.
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What is the last picture for timing about? :noel:
I was so surprised that they are available and reasonably priced. no one makes anything for this engine.
OH ok that make sense :noel:
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All the valve clearances are finally set. What a pain in the ass. They are in .05mm increments which is .002". The specs for the intake are .008"-.009" so I had to sand them down. Those tiny little pucks are so hard it took about half an hour each to take off .001" using the 250 grit diamond honing stone.
I forgot my Playdoh to check piston to valve clearance. I'll hopefully remember it tomorrow to verify everything and start assembling the engine.
(https://i.imgur.com/omXZau5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LpeiM40.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PzH0cTC.jpg)
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Wow that looks like a lot of work, I see somebody drinks Space Dust IPA bier.
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Space Dust is the best. And yes, so much work. I remembered my Play-Doh and was able to check valve clearance. I have 1mm on the intake and .060" interference on the exhaust. I'm going over options as to how to move forward. Either I'm gonna try to get a 3mm thick head gasket which seems way too thick or contact Wiseco to see if the dome thickness is enough to cut the valve reliefs
(https://i.imgur.com/bsf0IMA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TXMaZqC.jpg)
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Good thing you checked :noel:
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Verified there's plenty of room for machining the pockets deeper from Wiseco. I ordered an angle plate for my Bridgeport mill that will be here Monday. Can't wait to actually finish this engine.
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Angle plate got here early. Made some soft jaws by annealing some copper plumbing couplers so my toe clamps cant mar the pistons. Had to open the slots in the base cause they're 12mm and not 1/2". Broke a tap making new T-slot nuts out of some grade 10.9 bolts. Luckily the tap broke high enough to grind it back and tap a second one. Got a test piston cut. Gonna clamp up the Wisecos tomorrow and hopefully they come out as nice.
(https://i.imgur.com/kAyIhsD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/209AZRK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ocBeytr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0UTIYzN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/krMud0X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hzpulB5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WqVVWSb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9k63xcz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wgrtpP3.jpg)
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Finished machining the pistons and started the final assembly. More issues with the head I bought, they only cut one gear to make it adjustable. Luckily, I have a lathe at work and was able to cut it but it's still very frustrating. With the head torqued I reconfirmed that it is a non-interference engine. I needed to know that the pistons 100% can't touch the valves just in case something goes wrong. I made a new CAS extender to fit the FE5A camshaft. Had to reduce the diameter of the offset wing piece without touching the wings which was pretty sketchy operation then machined down a lug bolt to make up the extra 30mm pin to pin distance.
(https://i.imgur.com/kW0MaIw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/E1PkFWn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PmLsPQU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fYSxN4W.jpg)
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Nice work I like look of those gears :noel:
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Finished machining the pistons and started the final assembly. More issues with the head I bought, they only cut one gear to make it adjustable. Luckily, I have a lathe at work and was able to cut it but it's still very frustrating. With the head torqued I reconfirmed that it is a non-interference engine. I needed to know that the pistons 100% can't touch the valves just in case something goes wrong. I made a new CAS extender to fit the FE5A camshaft. Had to reduce the diameter of the offset wing piece without touching the wings which was pretty sketchy operation then machined down a lug bolt to make up the extra 30mm pin to pin distance.
(https://i.imgur.com/kW0MaIw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/E1PkFWn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PmLsPQU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fYSxN4W.jpg)
Art
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Pulled the wrap off to re-rap it and found my #1 runner split in half. welded it back together and found the exhaust flange badly warped. No machine shops would put it on their belt grinder so I spent 4 hours with a surface plate and 80 grit sandpaper to get it to within .005" of flatness.
(https://i.imgur.com/SgWH9jj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ATSr2jx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EQxLGlo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9MYgh9A.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dIpXu8q.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nrZ5Qnd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DWaqR4A.jpg)
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Hopefully this is the last finishing touches on my mustang 2 front end. Turns out my upper control arm height was an inch high, and the lower edge of my cross member was an inch low. Proper suspension geometry and ground clearance has been restored. I just need to do more clean up, shoot some paint on it so it doesn't rust and finish the final touches on the motor so I can drop it in.
(https://i.imgur.com/DLFbxIJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GtS8TPZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K9A7aMw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ibU8nwS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rXlJ0vD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N54Qf2x.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7AEKrhI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PpJbO5N.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/q0Wwpc3.jpg)
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Nice!
What size WG you using?
Looks like a 44m? :noel:
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It's an MVS 38mm
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It's alive!!!!!
https://youtube.com/shorts/9nL7XsIYghY?feature=share
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Congrats, the contrast of the vid, make the coil packs look like they aren't even connected.... almost like wireless :noel:
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They're bluetooth, it's the same technology that the SEMA trucks use for their front drive shafts lol
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It's alive!!!!!
https://youtube.com/shorts/9nL7XsIYghY?feature=share
🥳🥳🥳🥳💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
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Tying up all the loose ends. Condenser is mounted, oversized slave from a 86 4Runner SR5 installed. There is a massive improvement going to a 13/16 master vs the stock 3/4 master. Brake hydraulics are all finished and leak free. I've been driving it for the last few days with my shop floor alignment using a toe bar, tape measure, and a digital angle finder to set camber. I need to get 500 miles on it to break it in before final tuning.
(https://i.imgur.com/On5xiyV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7NiZfX2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/abYCEVH.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/8lXMW1a.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/70I7xgM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z6IE2d3.jpg)
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Had to do a double take, then blow up the 1st hood picture, thought you had the vent openings towards the front and not the other way.
Where did you get the vents?
What calipers are you using?
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the vents are from rodlouvers.com front brakes are S10 metric calipers on mustang 2 adapters to run Grenada 11" rotors
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More progress. The 94-99 DeVille tails looked a bit thick on the bottom so I found a set of 89-93s. Not 100% sure which ones I'm going with at the moment but ill have the buckets from Grant Fab this week. im leaning towards the taller, thinner 89-93s cause the contour is pretty much perfect.
(https://i.imgur.com/xjp2WyU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Oen8umY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/53t8u7O.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XpEHfYP.jpg)
I finished the A/C hard lines and should have the hoses and fittings to finish everything this week. I routed the low side from the expansion valve down and looped it back forward so I could braze the high side line that goes into the expansion valve to it to assist with cooling the refrigerant a little more. all newer cars do this by putting the high side line inside the low side line so I figured it might help.
(https://i.imgur.com/yxt071h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6TS4lAi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BBDFVst.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7KZCiAT.jpg)
I swapped out the louvered hod for the smooth one. I like the smooth look better and im hoping the louvers will not be necessary with the condenser under the bed.
(https://i.imgur.com/EQFoZxe.jpg)
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Speaking of lights, are you swapping to LED based lighting to cut down on voltage loads?
I found when I converted my 1g Integra to LED headlight, and interior lights, it really helped with voltage stability for tuning.
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Yep, all LEDs currently with all lights on it draws 4.1amps total. most of which is from a normal halogen license plate bulb cause i keep forgetting to order an led
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Finishing up the A/C so I thought I'd make it more fun to drive. Made a tight slip fit arbor, cut down the old flywheel and made a weight for the new aluminum one. 6lbs was way too light. Added 12lbs to the flywheel. Clutch and flywheel together weigh in at 25.8lbs which is still 5-7lbs lighter than stock. It took around 16 hours to make. Such a pain but I'm hoping it will be more pleasant to drive and be able to idle under 1000rpms now.
(https://i.imgur.com/RR6dJ1K.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/J0kltvo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4qtulvI.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/bfJfAeH.jpg)
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Haven't ever had that issue with lighten flywheels, yet!
Did you have to balance the flywheel?
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Im dropping it off today to get properly balanced.
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UPDATE: Flywheel is balanced, took it for a drive then the turbo blew, dropped the turbo off to get built and got a cheapo housing and machined a piston to press into the center section so I could drive it NA and get the alignment done. Then I wrecked my Harley. I can't work on anything for a few weeks until my ribs and collar bone heal. Hopefully my turbo gets finished soon it's waiting for install it as I heal up.
(https://i.imgur.com/fA8YN6A.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lGBJllo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pD5PWaf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6YYTVY8.jpg)
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UPDATE: Flywheel is balanced, took it for a drive then the turbo blew, dropped the turbo off to get built and got a cheapo housing and machined a piston to press into the center section so I could drive it NA and get the alignment done. Then I wrecked my Harley. I can't work on anything for a few weeks until my ribs and collar bone heal. Hopefully my turbo gets finished soon it's waiting for install it as I heal up.
(https://i.imgur.com/fA8YN6A.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lGBJllo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pD5PWaf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6YYTVY8.jpg)
Damn friend you got fucked up, take care and give it the proper time to heal before you go doing hard core shit you don’t want to lose mobility.
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Holy shit! a good wreck is one you can walk away from, but damn! that looks painful. :?:
And like MTZ says heal up fully before you push it!! :noel:
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Holy shit! a good wreck is one you can walk away from, but damn! that looks painful. :?:
And like MTZ says heal up fully before you push it!! :noel:
^this^
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After looking at so many different ways to get the alignment heads to clear without hitting my fenders it dawned on me to just put the skinnier wheels on that leave tons of room. I feel stupid when the solutions are so simple. Alignment is done. Found the source of my a/c leak, it was coming from the base of an r12 filter that I'm using as an accumulator for my cycling switch. sealed the threads and I don't see any further leaks yet. Thanks to my awesome turbo block off piston, I've been able to drive it around to get all the little things taken care of so it's ready to go when the turbo comes back. Fuel tank is painted black, the silver one has been bugging me for quite some time.
(https://i.imgur.com/Mh0g7Dp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3nPIYah.jpg)
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So you have enough clearance of rear tire to bed and arch? are you using a solid spacer to keep the bed from riding on tire?
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the rub marks on the flares are old when it was like 2" lower. there is plenty of clearance now.
Working on finishing up the interior, foamed up the center console. As soon as it cures i can shave it down into shape and fiberglass over it.
(https://i.imgur.com/lxQDAK8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3J9xNGK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XGH86A5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6sTOX1H.jpg)
Got a message on fordfestiva.com that someone needed a hydro trans ims adapter for their build. luckily i never throw anything away and still have some of my jigs from over a decade ago.
(https://i.imgur.com/pgMfwRl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/deg3aV5.jpg)
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The amount of fabrication and time into this build it unfucking real! You could have probably built a whole car from scratch with custom 1 off pieces for less time. I applaud you my friend! This is way cooler.
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Right?! I was seeing that I can buy a complete Shelby Daytona Coupe kit car without engine/trans/driveshaft for 20k. it would have saved a lot of weight and time.
Finished sanding and picked a paint, I think it turned out pretty good.
(https://i.imgur.com/OWVF96T.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gdhhhv5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8vkKwxR.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/E5Af5Up.jpg[img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/Elwh5fo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/c3whvqG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NVvqq7l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sYqlUuW.jpg)
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Wow!! :noel:
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I love the wrinkle/texture!
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This only gets better 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
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Looks great!
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Feeling motivated lately to get this interior finished.
(https://i.imgur.com/d2ESMB6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XuIXKZx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CdO92JZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IzcPaNs.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/dzVUIiN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/c04pATn.jpg)
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More updates on the truck. Turbo is finished and back in. The oil catch can is mounted and connected, not running a filter just a draft tube to the bottom of the truck, the drivers door panel is installed but I ran out of rivets so ill have to wait til next weekend for the passenger side.
(https://i.imgur.com/yw3xVGn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/76lVR3H.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GmFjqbu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wb1DPr6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QWyL6Uk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/R76r05N.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/IJnsYMW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XDFCRl6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/s1fqBMm.jpg)
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Nice door cards, how did you to the bent inlays? :noel:
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I didn't make them, I bought them from Rohde Fab in Oregon.
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I didn't make them, I bought them from Rohde Fab in Oregon.
Oh ok :noel:
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More updates!
I put the 4 point harness in on the passenger side. Got the passenger door assembled and looking pretty. Got my initial tune done, 20psi and only 9* of timing for now. I need to learn how to control it before it gets the other 10psi and 6*. I dropped off a spare tranny to get rebuilt. I cut the fender flares off cause I was sick of them cutting my tires. I have new plastic flares that have not yet been installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/yPzTVfm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IRd6XM1.jpg)
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instead of looking like a racecar driver i look like a crazy old guy in suspenders. Thanks Corbeau lol
(https://i.imgur.com/P9ukpfu.jpg)
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Door panel looks good, love the center console and ebrake setup.
Are those Kirky seats comfortable, like for long distance driving?
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you have amazing fab skills, have you considered a small roll cage ? everything looks badass btw!
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It's getting a 9.99 certified cage eventually. The Kirkeys aren't bad comfort wise but, they don't breathe at all, so they get really sweaty when it's hot out. The console is from a ZX2 Escort. I Just need to make a headliner and a carpet panel for the back wall and its pretty much done.
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for the kirky seats could you route a air con hose to the seats cut the sweaty situation?
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A fan would work but there's not a lot of room. I've been looking for the airflow 3d mesh motorcycle seat material to make new covers out of
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Ive been chasing a noise for a while now. I was thinking it was in my transmission because it was only noisy in 5th gear and would go away when putting into 4th. turns out my slip yoke is bent and has probably been bent since day one cause it's in the wrong direction of rotation. All that black dust next to the caps is what's left of the needle bearings. After seeing how close it was to failure I added a driveshaft loop also.
(https://i.imgur.com/AeANyuo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/muXdnyj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0p2JagW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UmayPFw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Bnmc5EF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Q9SpPVR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VQLtGQ6.jpg)
Went back to the driveshaft shop that built it to get replacement u joints and they still have my mock up from 4 years ago hanging on their wall of shame. The owner thought it was funny that I had no idea how to measure for a driveshaft.
(https://i.imgur.com/Gdv8eOp.jpg)
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https://youtube.com/shorts/0CM8o5MMwS8?si=TFUEgyzoOnpwifxM
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Oh that would have not gone well if not caught in time :?: :?:
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Oh yea, which it why the loop was such a priority lol
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Damn good that you caught that
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Your driveshaft mock-up is exactly what I would have done 🤦🏻♂️ lol
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Got the power tune done @26psi on E85. Ended at 18* of timing at redline. putting the data log into virtual dyno and it says 500whp, this thig is a beast.
(https://i.imgur.com/nyOfbwZ.jpg)
https://youtube.com/shorts/Z0I77YJ1nJ0?si=YTz9sIF1b4JDdKhu
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Hell ya!!!
Rippers videos??
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sweet
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so... there has been a little oopsie, FC Turbo II/ B2600 trannys are not as strong as I'd hoped.
(https://i.imgur.com/giNgTEU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QH7rSiW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/e6bO2Xk.jpg)
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if you ain't braking part you aren't making powar!!!!
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making the new bell housing
(https://i.imgur.com/uD2qaIo.jpg)
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Are you gonna run a different tranny this go around?
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Yea, the bell housing is for a Tremec TKX
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Getting fancy, decided to torture myself by transferring all the numbers into CAD to have the parts laser cut. It only took 10 hours but if everything fits it will be well worth it. It's getting made in 4 parts. The engine and tranny flanges are gonna be made from 3/8 and the cylinder and cone are gonna be made from flat 1/4" and rolled into shape. When it's all done ill fly cut both surfaces parallel.
(https://i.imgur.com/fWb7M3L.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/78o5xkG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Wd21rs5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yomz2Ra.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/E8wVxrU.jpg)
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Badass!!! :noel: :noel: :noel:
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Badass!!! :noel: :noel: :noel:
^dis^
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Printed out the flange and found all the bolts have slightly shifted in cad. The measurements were all just ever so slightly off that it pulled the whole thing out of alignment. Trying one more time to get it all the measurements perfect. Bought a mock-up engine block, some giant 24" dial calipers, and have been trying to plot these damn holes. its a huge pain.
(https://i.imgur.com/1DfmZNv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gB1H1Mk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mVqwGFE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tWlQNxl.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/9mE0XVo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PcbaAkF.jpg)
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It’s going to be so rewarding once you get it right because it looks like a pain in the ass to get there 🤪
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What a pain this was to get everything measured just perfectly but it was so rewarding when it slipped straight into the dowels and everything lined up. Capital Metal Works did an amazing job with very accurate cuts and super fast turnaround time. Now I need to find a shop that can roll the spacer and cone. If anyone knows of a shop that can slip roll these let me know. They are 1/4 thick and 4" wide
(https://i.imgur.com/7xHudNb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ah3gW5o.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xWJOhtg.jpg)
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More progress
(https://i.imgur.com/Ej96zto.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/w0EeAiE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UdcKG9i.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/f8Pjaag.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/M75rsNF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pKx5nVX.jpg)
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Skills man.
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wow dude thats crafty and cool as fuck
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All welded up and milled flat and parallel. I need to fit and adjust the hydraulic throw out and make a new tranny cross member, cut a new hole in the floor, make a new shifter and have a new driveshaft made.
(https://i.imgur.com/5OpvsjR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kkMRzXS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/voGCLNR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nTLWF3y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2UOB2On.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Xdo4wDa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/e8Jbttb.jpg)
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Saw some of this on instagram :noel:
Looks minty sweet, giving ideas, as soon as I can get a shop. :noel:
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More progress
(https://i.imgur.com/Ej96zto.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/w0EeAiE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UdcKG9i.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/f8Pjaag.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/M75rsNF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pKx5nVX.jpg)
Can you tell me some details about that “material” are those cut slits to be bent? Post welded ?
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finished the crossmember this weekend.
(https://i.imgur.com/DgBHJSy.jpg)
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More progress on my custom bell housing. It warped a little after being welded but it's still in spec. .0035" out of concentricity (max allowance is .005"). Set the depth for the hydraulic throw out and machined the heads of the new bolts for a nicer fit. Drilled the bell housing for the -3AN lines. Picked up a driveshaft yoke and measured for the new driveshaft. I'm hoping to be doing burn outs on New Year's.
(https://i.imgur.com/rUpX0E8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/maDUXgh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/i7CniUu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/B2vdBM7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZjFuxf8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xSws4Xr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/n8k4SBq.jpg)
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bolts flat resting on edge of bellhousing, good way to keep them ever backing out. :noel:
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More progress, should be doing burnouts by new years! Driveshaft is done, flywheel insert is on its way, just need to finish the hole in the floor and its go time!
(https://i.imgur.com/rKSo5Rf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yKSKSCa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/h2EPE34.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OZaZLst.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GXTMqiY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CwMbilL.jpg)
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shifter bezel is done. just waiting on the flywheel insert. my step bit wasnt big enough for the grommet so i made a tapered reamer on the lathe to make a 1.5" hole to pass the wire through.
(https://i.imgur.com/GXTMqiY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CwMbilL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nzVcr25.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eZPe6Xt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aL1n0gj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5LchhBI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mJRqjVE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vrGx5EV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5nmWyWV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HyvT4Dn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8pvcFZJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QdXkGMj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/60TF6bp.jpg)
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Nom Nom
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I'm retarded. I didn't bother to check to see clutch master requirements for the hydraulic throw out. after bleeding the system my 5/8 master couldn't disengage the clutch. Turns out I need a 3/4 not a 5/8 master. Luckily Summit delivers next day. It was pretty easy to modify the plate to fit the new Tilton. Just needed to make the middle hole bigger and redrill the mounting holes. Got some 5/8 EPDM heater hose to remount the reservoir. I'm hoping to get it back in the truck at lunch and drive it home tonight.
(https://i.imgur.com/EmPq7LW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HpUWmC8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aScOek8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/81Giycp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YWWAIJX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/y5xiCXC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OYJsPlo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AbPNwBp.jpg)
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Back on the road and getting the new clutch and tranny broke in before beating on it. I'm glad we don't have winter here in Northern California so it will be ready for abuse in no time.
(https://i.imgur.com/djIn73x.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RSZ2YF9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Sm2CxkD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZwDOLD6.jpg)
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I must have messed up my trackloc when I swapped in the carbon clutches cause I fried the diff pin, so I upgraded to a Detroit TrueTrac helical lsd
(https://i.imgur.com/2zYtKpp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vjClRmS.jpg)
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Hell ya! :evil:
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Sorting out little things that have been bugging me. After the last horn contact I made failed I moved the button to the bottom of the dash. I hated the horn button in the wheel not working so I came up with a new solution. A few pieces of ABS glued together with a GM horn contact repair kit from AutoZone. So far so good but only time will tell. I forgot to take pictures of how it's actually connected. I bent the last coil of the spring straight down, poked it out the bottom, and soldered a wire to it.
(https://i.imgur.com/UWpdfgv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JX2244c.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TfHqTSC.jpg)
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I must have messed up my trackloc when I swapped in the carbon clutches cause I fried the diff pin, so I upgraded to a Detroit TrueTrac helical lsd
(https://i.imgur.com/2zYtKpp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vjClRmS.jpg)
Baller setup
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I swapped to RevShift poly engine mounts. I was noticing a weird surge at low rpm cruise and found the E30/M20 mounts I put in last year were already collapsed my 3/4". I've driven less than 2000 miles on those mounts. They add a lot more vibration but the suge is gone. Still wrapped a seatbelt around the lifting side just in case.
(https://i.imgur.com/E1kHvaa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/guKDHZX.jpg)
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With the poly mounts came more vibration. I didn't realize the sealant was missing between the support and the hood skin. A little body sealer quieted it right up.
(https://i.imgur.com/BXbsdQK.jpg)
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i have super stiff urethane mounts and its fucking wild lol
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I went with the 80a which was the softest they make. It does drive way better with the polys. No more surging at light load on the freeway.
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Took a time lapse of making the spring brackets for my exhaust.
https://youtu.be/lq7mvWZIhqg?feature=shared
No matter how tight I made the clamp the exhaust would move and leak and rattle.
https://youtu.be/IRZLsosxZew?feature=shared
(https://i.imgur.com/af5b25P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8yVum8w.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aNClvIe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/C2B3eoJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eoho13e.jpg)
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Took a time lapse of making the spring brackets for my exhaust.
https://youtu.be/lq7mvWZIhqg?feature=shared
No matter how tight I made the clamp the exhaust would move and leak and rattle.
https://youtu.be/IRZLsosxZew?feature=shared
(https://i.imgur.com/af5b25P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8yVum8w.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aNClvIe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/C2B3eoJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eoho13e.jpg)
Love this, gives me ideas