:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Fabrication => Topic started by: HiProfile on October 03, 2009, 01:58:56 AM
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Basicly I don't have instant access to a press, and I have some decent p72 pistons I'd like to use when I get my "temporary" ls/vtec freshened up & ready to swap. I figure 2-3 hours is worth gaining over half a point of compression (and larger valve reliefs). FYI I do have forged pistons, but they're for the gsr block/ls crank dealy I'm building for next year.
I'm thinking about welding up a small frame for pressing wrist pins in/out of pistons. I have an old bottle jack, lots of steel angle & tube, and some ideas. I'm thinking a basic square with minor gussets on the corners. Since it wouldn't need much to push it though, I'm thinking it doesn't have to be terribly strong.
I'd like to have it accomodate the pin pushing through the piston, keep the piston in place, and keep it stable on the ground. To accomplish this, I think I'll be making 2 rectangular frames spaced out 1", side by side. I have 2 old 1.5 ton bottle jacks that still work, so I could either do a 1.5 or 3 ton press.
Anyone else ever make a hydraulic press before? Anything else I may have missed, or minimum power needed for the jack/ram?
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I've done it before. It doesn't take too much force. I just did it on a supper old press at work. 1.5 ton should be more than enough. I've got the tooling sitting around somewhere. Not too difficult to make. Throw the rods in the oven for an hour at 500 and freeze the pins. That'll help a little. Be quick but careful.
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I built one before. My advice is overbuild the press. Mine I made it about 3' wide, 4' tall, and the middle of the top and bottom pieces kept bending. Ended up welding lots of plate and angle iron to them to make them strong enough not to deform with an 8 ton jack pressing on them. My advice is don't make it to damn big and this won't be a problem.
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Your too worried over nothing. Build a frame with what you have and test it out on a scrap piston. If it starts flexing real bad then reinforce it. But remember, steel is pretty flexible so a little movement isn't bad. Majority of press frames are a C-channel design so if your using square tube you'll be good as long as you have the wall thickness.
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Me worry? I just don't like doing things twice. After going to the track the first time yesterday, I also realized how much I need new suspension bushings. Burning and cutting wasn't fun on the last 2 cars I did that to, so this should make that easier too.
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go to the pawn shop and get a variety of sockets to use as punches
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build one out of a bottle jack and a 2x4 frame.
same way they used to shape skateboards back in the day.
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go to the pawn shop and get a variety of sockets to use as punches
i use sockets for lots of stuff like this, lol. i dont think ive ever changed a u-joint without one :noel:
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go to the pawn shop and get a variety of sockets to use as punches
i use sockets for lots of stuff like this, lol. i dont think ive ever changed a u-joint without one :noel:
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go to the pawn shop and get a variety of sockets to use as punches
i use sockets for lots of stuff like this, lol. i dont think ive ever changed a u-joint without one :noel:
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I just used an arbor press to press out pins.
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13mm Craptsman socket.......finally found a use for the damn things!
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I'm glad I don't have any of those other tools. ::) That's the whole reason I'm planning this, I can make it easier than a big vise or arbor press. I don't have a foundry in my basement, otherwise I'd have made all those tools by now.
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This thread needs some pics or mad mspaint drawings.
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi81.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj207%2Fdrhart2006%2Ffffffuuuuuuu.jpg&hash=f6391ddfb9d23cf1fce923305934b1cc21400dc5)
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Thanks Jago!
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Post pics of your setup when you're done. I need to build something to press out the pins too.
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It might be a while, or not. Ideally I'm going to first: get rid of my 67 firebird's massive misfire before hauling to storage, install a remote start/alarm into my sol, finish my b-series log/turbo kit for the sol's b16, rebuild one GSR to stock, build a quick-spool valve like no other, build a 2nd turbo manifold/kit for said GSR using that quick spool valve and a 50trim t3/t04e using the ATP .78ar divided housing, replace my boosted d16 with that junk, build the other GSR with forged internals, get a 2nd job for 60+ hours a week, and buy my first house. :?:
I may have time to slip that in there. I want to get a bushing kit for my EG's suspension, maybe it will be bumped up the list. At this point it would only be for pr3 pistons in a b18a1 I'll never use.
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turbo kit for the sol's b16
You just lost my respect.
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Fuck you it's a rusty dented winter beater with a completely stock b16a3. FYI the GSR's will end up in my 95 coupe for the spring. I'm just not lucky enough to live where it snows less than 50" per year.
Would you rather I left it at the full 135whp of stock NA glory?? For me turbo is cheaper than any decent NA mod, and a lot more power. I'm actually thinking about swapping that B18A1 into it. With 11:1 compression, new rings, and a b18b1 head it would probably be more fun for daily driving.
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Pretty sure JD hates B16's
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Pretty sure JD hates B16's
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Pretty sure JD hates B16's
I'll tell you one thing, it's way better than an obd1 mpfi d15b2 + EF lx trans. That was my last beater. The sedan could hold a shitload (had a b18a1 longblock, b18 shortblock, z6 head, LS crank, and other junk in it at one time), but the sol+b16 is a better daily driver.
Anyways JD could hate heterosexual sex and I'd still fuck women. :noel: If the hate is palpable enough (ala $500 into my paypal account) I'll make a video of me melting the b16 shortblock with thermite. As I said, its more temporary till I get a house, find a hatch with A/C, and give it the rebuilt GSR treatment.
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This clearly isnt going anywhere.