:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: CRX304 on November 11, 2009, 08:38:51 PM
-
Would this work???? I did it and created a base map but it's runnning STUPID rich....
Look at how I did it and let me know.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi233.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee234%2Fcrx304%2FINJWiring.jpg&hash=ef51936af551eb690c8db7ee48e5ede848d590da)
-
I would but my eg is now wired as you see... 12 volt from the dead plug going into the box, and 5.X volts going to the injectors. it starts up w/ NO problems.... but is just retardedly rich.... (smoking me out RICH)
-
No offense to Complex.... but I'm looking for flaws in my wiring to the injectors.... and yes 10 minutes ago, I took a base LS that I knew was perfect and scaled it for 450s' in Uberdata (cause its easy) and didnt touch the ign. maps and that shit still smoked me out w/ absolutely no charge piping connected... I'm trying to get this thing up to my shop so I can plumb it..... so I'm still looking for critsizm on my "Resistor box wiring"
-
Looks like it should work but like complex said seems like an over complicated way to do it.
I'm not following why you are not getting 12V to your injectors though. Koeo you should have 12v. Unless you are trying to measure with the engine running.
-
looks like you did it the hard way wiring it direct to the injectors. you should have 4 wires from the dead plug ( i think the brighter yellow) going into each of the 4 same color wires on the resistor box (red i think?), then the other 4 yellow wires from the dead plug should be twisted together and connected to the single color (black?) on the resistor box.
-
That's how I've done it, 4 injector wires --> 4 black resistor wires --> 1 red resistor wire --> 4 twisted-together deadplug wires.
Wiring them incorrectly really won't affect the afr's much. They'll open a tad quicker, but generally their extra latency makes DSM's too lean. Regardless, in my experience no injector scales juuuust right vs OEM. You have to play with battery offsets or dead time/latency to get it idling right, then you adjust the rest of your map via scalar. Many other EMS's require this, but usually they use ass-backwards names like some Nissan apps.
If you know the injectors are goofy, you spilt the difference by adjusting idle partially with the scalar, partially with the offset. This is so the rest of your map isn't off much. Generally not the ideal way to do it.