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[ironcrx]

My first foray into B series has been a fucking mess for months now.  I never should have strayed from the D even if I was only trying out a B18 for the hell of it.

I got this B18a1 a while ago.  I installed it into my crx si 2 weeks ago and I cannot get it running right for the life of me.

Issues (in order of when they were and what I did)
-With everythign hooked up and seemingly fine looking, the car would run with a high fucking idle at 3k.  Finally dropping to 2.5k and surging constantly.  Or it would just stay at 3k high ass idle.
-Unhooked vacuum from MAP and it would have a surging idle till warmed up.  When at operating temp it idled between 500 and 1k but was rough.  Driving it like this was partially successful.  It hauled ass just fine but wouldnt cruise for shit.  Trying to drive at a set speed it would stutter and jump like crazy so I could only accelerate, coast, accelerate, coast, etc.
-Reset timing to see if it changed anything:  Not really.

-BIG CHANGE: Today I decided to fuck with the FITV since it can be huge fucking trouble maker.  The plunger inside of it was in fact backed all the way out.  It just fell into my hand when I opened it.  I screwed it back in place and installed it, hooked up map vacuum and got everything set for fresh start.  Car barely starts.  When it does it sputters for a second or two then dies.
Only way I got it to run after a hard time cranking it is with the vacuum lever thing that pushes the throttle open a little.  But with that my idle sits at 2k and wont go any lower.  Trying to drive it was fucking terrible.  Sputters and skips trying to accelerate and has hardly any get up and go.  It does in between sputtering fits.

WHAT THE FUCK IS WRONG?!?!!?!?!?  Help me out niggers.  The only shit I suspect i did "wrong" is timing it but ill check that tomorrow.  What the hell else does this shit?

[Towdogg]

Check engine lights?

[ironcrx]

nope

I also forgot to mention its running rich through this whole ordeal.  So rich I can taste the gas in the air.  Its getting around 7 mpg....

[d112crzy]

Since its in a crx, my guess is you have some wiring issue. What ecu are you using?

[schim187]

Kinda sounded like you had a vacuum leak at first, but running rich too?  Whats ur setup?  Ecu, any mods?  Double check that ur grounds are good and map and tps, all hooked up right...its generally something simple that causes stupid problems....just think of it like legos   :yes:

[chris]

You have the correct firing order. Also your plugs are trashed now!

[ironcrx]

You have the correct firing order. Also your plugs are trashed now!

Explain sir.  Your scaring me 

The motor is unmodded and the ecu is an obd0 pr4.

I checked all grounds and they are hooked up.  I even have extra grounds hooked up believe it or not.

I just put in new spark plugs and wires 3 days ago.  Think the plugs are actually trashed?


My vacuum lines were hooked up using this diagram (im using an intake mani similar to this which i bought from one of you nogs)


The only thing I can think of changing while I recheck everything is take apart the FITV and clean the shit out of it and clean the IACV.

[Joseph Davis]

You plugged IACV into IAT, and vice versa.

[Joseph Davis]

Oh, yeah.  85-00 Honda/Acura, you are a FUCKING MORON if you blindly plug any 2P connector into whatever sensor/actuator is handy.  You can fry the sensors and/or the ECU.  DO NOT blindly swap shit around to fix it.  Get a wiring diagram and look what colors go where like an intelligent being.

[d112crzy]

You can fry the sensors and/or the ECU. 

Yep. Your IAT sensor is most likely fucked now.

[jabberwock]

Been there, done that...  I got IAT and purge solenoid backwards.  IAT turned into a droopy melted candle, ecu turned into a foul smelling fog machine.  Luckily a local guy had a p28 board (no case) with an aborted chip job on it.  It took several hours to clean the solder trails whoever tried to chip it left all over it but it was $20.

[ironcrx]

You plugged IACV into IAT, and vice versa.

I know those arent mixed only because with my previous motor I had to extend the IAT about 2 feet.  With that handy I know the plug with ghetto red wires coming off the harness is IAT.  IACV is unchanged and plugged in properly.

Everything is plugged into where it should go.  I use to have past issues with being bad about that (mixing up map and tps plug all the damn time)

Not a single code is thrown and I can get the motor to start when I add throttle to it.  It dies when I let it idle on its own.

Oh, yeah.  85-00 Honda/Acura, you are a FUCKING MORON if you blindly plug any 2P connector into whatever sensor/actuator is handy.  You can fry the sensors and/or the ECU.  DO NOT blindly swap shit around to fix it.  Get a wiring diagram and look what colors go where like an intelligent being.

Getting at something like me hooking something up wrong?  The car this motor came out of is a fucking mess of wires.  an 88dx.  ill take a pic of its nastyness later.  But I digress... the obd0 B18a1 is suppose to be practically a plug and play type deal when it comes to wiring for putting it into a 90-91 crx si.  Ecu, harness, etc.  The only plugs Im not using on the motor are the fan switch on the back of the motor and the thermostat plug.

Last resort I can think of is MAYBE checking timing and resetting it. 

[chris]

Let me guess autozone sprak plug wires? Only use oem or actual quality brands aka NGK. Also plugs get trashed anytime you have an engine running like that


Just because its fuel injected doesnt mean you cant ruin plugs in an afternoon.

[Jorsher]

My B-swap CRX (thank god everything is worked out) had a few ridiculous issues, but honestly I doubt he has the wiring wrong.  It's pretty hard to get anything mixed, especially since STOCK CRX MAP wiring will not reach to the TPS, but the TPS wiring would.  Most of the stock wiring is near where it should go.

That vacuum diagram didn't do me much good, but as long as I had the FPR and the vacuum line at the back of the intake manifold connected, it ran fine.  Also used the TB-mounted MAP instead of the firewall one which resolved one of my issues...

As Chris said, running like that will fuck plugs.  Axe how I know?

Double-check both the mechanical and ignition timing and change the plugs.

No idea why you would be idling so high.  Mine only idled that high when any of the vacuum lines was disconnected...

[ironcrx]

I resolved most of my issues niggers.

First off im running ngk plugs and wires.  Always have always will. 

I removed and disassembled the FITV.  It was pretty dirty.  I also did the same with the IACV.  Still had same issues.

My B-swap CRX (thank god everything is worked out) had a few ridiculous issues, but honestly I doubt he has the wiring wrong.  It's pretty hard to get anything mixed, especially since STOCK CRX MAP wiring will not reach to the TPS, but the TPS wiring would.  Most of the stock wiring is near where it should go.

That vacuum diagram didn't do me much good, but as long as I had the FPR and the vacuum line at the back of the intake manifold connected, it ran fine.  Also used the TB-mounted MAP instead of the firewall one which resolved one of my issues...

As Chris said, running like that will fuck plugs.  Axe how I know?

Double-check both the mechanical and ignition timing and change the plugs.

No idea why you would be idling so high.  Mine only idled that high when any of the vacuum lines was disconnected...

Id like to use a map mounted TB but I got a FITV on the manifold thats in the way :-|

I checked timing and behold it was off by a million fucking degrees.  Obviously skipped teeth more and more as it ran like ass beforehand.

I reset the timing to TDC and tried shit out.  Im pretty sure its still off by a little since gettign the belt on, tightening it, and keeping shit aligned was a bitch.  Car runs.  idles pretty good but dips a little every few seconds.  Not too shabby.  Driving it seems good.  Feels like timing is off just a little.  Oh well.  Ill try it again next week.  Right now the shit runs pretty damn good, doesnt smell of toxic gas fumes, hauls ass, and doesn't sputter when trying to cruise.

Success!

Also: Ill replace the plugs again this weekend after work to see if it makes any improvement before fiddling with timing again

Thanks for the help guys.  Even you JD.  You hurt my feelings 

[Jorsher]

FITV in the way of the TB-mounted MAP?  I do not understand.

My FITV was on the back of the manifold and MAP was top of TB.  I extended the wires from the firewall-mounted one (which someone told me wasn't necessary) to reach the TB-mounted one since there wasn't a bung on the TB to connect the vacuum line from the firewall MAP.

Then again, I'm using an ITR clone intake mani so mine may be a bit different than your B18A1.

Setting timing used to take a few tries but now I'm able to get it on the first go most of the time.  I line up the cams/crank, put the belt on, double-check it's all still lined up, turn it counter-clockwise 3 cam teeth, and tighten tensioner.  If you can push on the tensioner while tightening it'd probably be even better but I have a timing belt cover on.

Fiddle with the timing BEFORE replacing the plugs.  Being that my timing was off, I fouled a few sets of plugs before I figured out what the timing issue was.

[chris]

oem b18a1 manifolds have the fitv under the throttle body. Get rid of it aka make a 2 dollar block off plate. fitv is nothing but trouble. Oh and get a new set of plugs too.

[ironcrx]

I plan on blocking the FITV.  Its such a piece of shit to me.

I got new plugs now for when I fuck with timing again.

Oh and to ask:  when timing it, you have it retarded 3 teeth before the alignment mark on the crank then tighten it which also lines it up?   Or is that wrong order?  Thats how I always did it on my D

[Jorsher]

No.

I've always lined everything up, turned 3 teeth on the cam, then loosened/tightened the tensioner.

Worst case I've had to retard/advance one tooth depending on how it acted.

[ironcrx]

alright sweet.  Ill be taking care of that shit tomorrow.