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[Jorsher]

Srsly.

I've gone a couple weeks without issue in my swap so I guess I'm due for a problem.

I first noticed it a few days back.  Around 4500rpm and up, the tach would jump back and forth between 4000 and 4500.

Next few days didn't do it (or I didn't catch it).

Today when I was driving, first gear, it was doing the same thing between 500-1500rpm, and when I was idling the tach would be pegged at 0rpm but it wouldn't jump if I gave it gas.

1 - Distributor gone wild?

2 - Save to drive with it acting like this?

[crttaz]

igniter or ALT, 4000-4500 and up jumping = my igniter was when.

Swapped it out with a beefier Accord unit, no more issues.

[DmC]

igniter or ALT, 4000-4500 and up jumping = my igniter was when.

Swapped it out with a beefier Accord unit, no more issues.

Another fine post.   :yes:       

[Jorsher]

Thanks I think I have one somewhere.

[chris]

D series obd1 units interchange also so if you have a spare one jack it. If not part store ones are cheap and work pretty well havent seen one fail in a short period of time yet.

[Jorsher]

Replaced the ICM with a fresh vato zone one.

Still acts weird.  Will be fine most of the time, but then goes retarded like this:
video-2010-06-13-19-24-20

Engine running but showing 0rpm?  Usually it's at about 500-750.  I haven't noticed the tach jumping but I'm usually watching the road.

Speedo seems to display the correct speed for the RPM though.  Even at idle.

[jagojon3]

Take out the cluster

Remove tach, should be a few screws on back of cluster

Reflow solder joints. I recently had to do this on an accord speedo.

[Jorsher]

Take out the cluster

Remove tach, should be a few screws on back of cluster

Reflow solder joints. I recently had to do this on an accord speedo.

So, ICM was probably fine?

Guess it's a good excuse to buy a decent soldering iron.

[jagojon3]

Yea this was for a jumpy speedo, not a tach. I don't see why it couldn't happen to a tach tho if you've already pursued other options. It's easy enough to do, give it a shot.

No need for a good soldering iron, a $10-15 unit will work.

[Phate]

harbor freight has some decent ones for under $10 that work great if you keep them really clean, and don't let friends borrow them (related to quality of friends, not quality of the iron or my multimeter)

[jagojon3]

People with aftermarket tachs that still have a stock tach in their dash piss me off

[Jorsher]

People with aftermarket tachs that still have a stock tach in their dash piss me off

Where'd that come from?

Stock tach here.  Wish I kept the JDMZ one for the 9000rpm tach, but CEL @ 8500rpm works just as well.

[jagojon3]

In case you were considering Phate's fail option.

[crttaz]

People with aftermarket tachs that still have a stock tach in their dash piss me off

You trust what is i the dash?

My D15B7 had a 7100 redline according to the OEM tach......600 rpm high