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[patsmx5]

Actually you only have to crimp, given the right switches & relay. I'll try to get it up tomorrow, I found the original diagram.

[danz]

Actually you only have to crimp, given the right switches & relay. I'll try to get it up tomorrow, I found the original diagram.

tomorrow never comes if you keep calling it tomorrow.   :yes:

[BoostForLife]

Actually you only have to crimp, given the right switches & relay. I'll try to get it up tomorrow, I found the original diagram.

tomorrow never comes if you keep calling it tomorrow.   :yes:

1 sec  usually takes a minute
1 min  usually take an hour
Tomorrow means next year.

[HiProfile]

1 sec  usually takes a minute
1 min  usually take an hour
Tomorrow means next year.

Fuck you guys, I was "refining" it - triple relays, springs, etc. Plus I have a real job, I don't do sexual favors for crack like others here...

I actually found a solution to my BIGGEST problem - the damn motor would ground the whole case. In reverse (+12vdc to ground wire) it would occationally short out on the trunk metal. As a concesion, I'll get vids of my b16 fartcan next to my d16 cutout side by side. According to the guidelines above, hopefully in less than "5 minutes"...

[BoostForLife]

1 sec  usually takes a minute
1 min  usually take an hour
Tomorrow means next year.

Fuck you guys, I was "refining" it - triple relays, springs, etc. Plus I have a real job, I don't do sexual favors for crack like others here...

I actually found a solution to my BIGGEST problem - the damn motor would ground the whole case. In reverse (+12vdc to ground wire) it would occationally short out on the trunk metal. As a concesion, I'll get vids of my b16 fartcan next to my d16 cutout side by side. According to the guidelines above, hopefully in less than "5 minutes"...

I was just saying

Im actually going to do the same thing except for with a wastegate actuator.

[HiProfile]

I know, just 'obeying the forms' we have here on rhmt.

I'd actually suggest you use a vacuum actuator instead, so it opens just before 0psi or so. It will help quiken spool time. It will also likely pop open faster, since they use mostly vacuum to hold it closed.

[BoostForLife]

I know, just 'obeying the forms' we have here on rhmt.

I'd actually suggest you use a vacuum actuator instead, so it opens just before 0psi or so. It will help quiken spool time. It will also likely pop open faster, since they use mostly vacuum to hold it closed.

What oem manufacturers uses one of these? Opening it right before boost at WOT would definetely help, except for going up huge hills(noise), but i think an electronic solenoid could be integrated into the vacuum line to hold it closed and keep vacuum pull there to keep it closed.

Im thinking that newer 7-series BMWs have some shit like this right before their mufflers.

http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air-conditioning/vacuum-actuator-411.php
Found this one here, not many details about it, but it should work.
Only $9.99

[HiProfile]

They're only used for weird stuff like windshield wiper covers on old vettes or car doors for expensive cars (mercedes), but most recently would be for any supercharged GM car for the bypass. That link you found is probably the best deal you'll find. Otherwise you can try a dual-port WG actuator for both methods, but I don't think any OEM used them at any point.

If you don't mind a $25 solenoid on there, that's really the way to do it (if using air). You can use a good vac actuator and a small reservior, and flip it open via switch, ecu output, or hobbs switch. I was thinking about doing it that way at one point, along with a 'pancake' pneumatic air cylinder I had.

[BoostForLife]

They're only used for weird stuff like windshield wiper covers on old vettes or car doors for expensive cars (mercedes), but most recently would be for any supercharged GM car for the bypass. That link you found is probably the best deal you'll find. Otherwise you can try a dual-port WG actuator for both methods, but I don't think any OEM used them at any point.

If you don't mind a $25 solenoid on there, that's really the way to do it (if using air). You can use a good vac actuator and a small reservior, and flip it open via switch, ecu output, or hobbs switch. I was thinking about doing it that way at one point, along with a 'pancake' pneumatic air cylinder I had.

Im about to part a 2000 Mercedes S430, that thing has more vacuum related parts than pretty much any other car. Every fucking thing from seats to locks to heater vents to door suction and freaking air suspension.
I'm pretty sure I can use some of that shit.

[ratcityrex]

08 Zo6 have 2 3/8 vacuum cutots from the factory right b4 there rear muffler.

[BoostForLife]

08 Zo6 have 2 3/8 vacuum cutots from the factory right b4 there rear muffler.

not going to find any wrecked though, i'll see what the mercedes in my garage will have to offer, not the white one that was at the dyno day, but same year and model though.

[HiProfile]

neighbor's vette + jack + cordless sawzall.

[ratcityrex]

neighbor's vette + jack + cordless sawzall.

I think they are v-banded on  :yes:

[HiProfile]

Actually I looked them up, they are welded in 2 of the 4 exhaust tips, between the tip & muffler. And they're only about 1.5" wide. No wonder they add so much power... I'd guess those blocked pipes bypass most of the baffels, so it might help a tad in their case.


Anyways, here's some pictures of the actual motor assembly I'm using. I changed from rubber bumpers to springs, as well as from aluminum to stainless for the motor's arm. The wiring looks like a rat's nest, but that's just from having so many wires needing to go everywhere. It was far worse before

[1slow91hf]

i might have to work on getting something like that built
just how fast is the response with the unit and how are you triggering it to open and close 

[HiProfile]

I know the 1st page has a lot of crap, but you'd find out by reading it. It's a simple +12v input, sent via the ecu. Specifically, eCtune sends a signal to open it, and it returns the "open" signal to the ecu to switch maps. That means when I manually switch it open, or switch it off, it won't mistakenly switch or not switch the fuel/ign maps.

For a cheaper solution, you can use a relay that runs off 5 volts to trigger the 2 relays. A 5v relay will trigger at ~3v, so about 60% throttle possition if you power it by the TPS sensor.


Response time is instant, actual time to open comepletely is ~1/3 second. Not pictured is the delay I put on the 1st relay, it keeps it open for .1-20+ seconds based on the potentiometer setting. I use it to keep it open between shifts. I used the circuit on the right, with a 20-turn 10k pot, 470uF cap, and a TIP31 transisor. Just used the junk I had...


http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/page2.htm#relay_i.gif

[HiProfile]

Okay so that link has died, but there is a new page:

Power-Off Time Delay Relay
http://www.bowdenshobbycircuits.info/page2.htm#relay_i.gif

I used the pic on the right, which uses a pot to adjust the extra time it stays open.

I'm also posting because that circuit died this year. I substituted a TIP31 for the 2n2222 and a 1n4001 for the 1n40002 diode, so I'm not sure what died exactly. I'd guess the cheap RadioShack transistor. I'm also guessing it could be the lower voltage diode I used and the big, inefficient, power-hungry CDM relay. Those fuckers get hot to the touch from it's internal coil, thats w/o current flowing through the contacts.

Anyways, the cutout still works fine when I bypass the delay circuit. I've put a few thousand miles on it and it's still working perfect. All I'd change is the stock return spring on the t-body (lower rate with more pre-load). None the less, it's fooled a couple cops so far. ;D

Edit: rebuilt the circuit, used a signal relay (11mA coil power vs 150mA for the 30A relay), and it works great. It uses a smaller cap, so the delay time is consistent.



One other thing: I'll eventually scrap this for a better idea. Someone saw this a while back, copied it, but used a servo instead. Oddly enough I parked next to him at the King Motorsports BBQ day last year. Silver 4rd EK with a 375whp GSR. All you need is a simple PWM controller ($5 in parts), and replace the adjustable pot with 2 fixed resistors. That will give the servo only 2 possitions. I tried it with my injector cleaner PWM controller, and I got a normal RC servo (standard 60* Futaba) to move a full 90* with authority...although it was a fairly sloppy signal & jittered (it drives injectors directly).

[rudebwoy]

can the throttle body handle the high exhaust temps?  look like a "hot" idea :yes:

I dont think it will, I have a QTP e-cutout and the pressure from the exhaust keeps bending it open, imagine if it was aluminum like the throttle body.

[HiProfile]

Erm, look at the dates. And my other most recent post.

A) It's been running 18 months (~12 with the electronics)

B) not even a rubber bearing shield has cracked from heat/flames. No gas assplosions even with high boost fire-shooting IGN-cut

C) it seals perfect with a little bit of carbon (water tight, puddled water explodes out when it opens)

D) the mustang TB has a really thick brass plate, maybe 3/32". There's enough backpressure to limit me to 12psi when closed & 100% EBC duty cycle.

E) QTP/DMH/Badlandz suck cattle cock compared to mine regarding: speed, sealing, reliability, price, space, EMS integration, replacement parts.


I don't list OEM quality, since only half of it will be OEM. Plus Ford quality is nothing to write home about. Even with my own warped 1/8" flange, a bit of copper RTV sealed it up perfect.