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[bigwig]

trust me i'm not taking offence to everything, just giving some shit back to the guys who keep saying i'm dumb. but praise my turbo manifolds......  ;D

Well why change the way i design a turbo kit just because it isn't a race car. etc? to me i put the same amount of work and time into my daily as i would my s2000, doesn't matter to me.

yeah, it may seem i'm overthinking this. but i wasn't happy with my previous kits and would like to improve where i feel i have failed before.

You're typical.  You'd actually fair better on HT with these questions because most of they have a similar mentality.  After a while you learn what to focus on and what doesn't matter.  Intercoolers are rarely a limiting factor.  I can only think of one setup off the top of my head that has actually caused a car to make considerably less power than it should have because of the intercooler and it wasn't design related but size related.  In the end you're best off buying an intercooler that will fit well and is made well(construction method, materials, high surface area).

If you're thinking like this, you might as well buy a bunch of temperature sensors because next you're going to have to decide what kind of IC piping you want to use.  That's always a fun discussion that generally goes no where quickly.  And while on the topic of IC piping, actually picking the sizing is another topic of discussion that comes up often but is rarely tested.

Where I'm going with this is, sometimes it comes down to being cool and knowing what you are talking about and other times it's about getting the job done and having a nice finished product.  I promise it is better to get a project done and have it look and function nicely than to have some thrown together thing that is better because of some internet ramblings.

[HiProfile]

Fuck all that reading, I'll just post this as proof you can "hack" your bumper, have it look good, AND have AC. Or at least the parts for AC, as I smashed the car before I got it recharged. Oh and the best part, I used an HF manifold. How anti-AC is that?



That JRC intercooler is ~2.75" thick at max

FYI you need to move the aluminum lines in front of the radiator, move the condensor back a tad, rebend a few lines, cut a big notch out of the bumper support, and a little sheetmetal. The bumper support really doesn't do shit, my car nosedived and went underneith the other car, and that was with tokico shocks & bald steelies.

[turbob16hatch]

yes there quite a bit of room on the 90-91 civic bumpers. but i'm not running one, i have a wagon bumper which sits like a 88-89 bumper.

but good picture

[HiProfile]

Now I have to go and read...being a wagon changes things, you can't just swap the front end to a 90-91. IMO you still have options, just not simple options.

1) OEM intercooler from a probe/mx6, t-bird, or hacked saab/volvo unit. The first 2 are rectangular and may fit in front of the manifold if you go to a half-rad. A saab/volvo unit is close to the size of a full rad, but you can chop it in half and seal the plastic ends - if you aren't aiming for high boost. Truck IC's aren'a a good idea - they are either extruded or have a very low fin count inside. They are intended to keep the mixture not as hot, rather than ice-cold/dense for gasoline engines.

2) Air to water. My friend has an A2W in his 3.6L Fiero, it works great. By using a core such as linked below, you can put it where the stock air filter went. They'll barely fit w/o modding them, but I've found some that should work in a civic - I was intending to try that last year. Due to space issues, you could use a typical piping setup (through front bumper), and have the IC connect through the stock cold air hole. Obviously this would require moving the battery. The actual heat exchanger could go under the back of the car (with a passenger-side exit muffler) or a small retangular unit where the fmic goes. (3rd link)

** http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Liquid-Water-to-Air-Racing-Intercooler-10-x5-x4-5-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5ad2125ef1QQitemZ390071475953QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
** http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CXRacing-Intercooler-Air-Water-Liquid-Turbo-4-5-Core_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5ad218f730QQitemZ390071908144QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
** http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Liquid-Intercooler-Air-Water-Intercooler-opposite-Inlet_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5633bd8baaQQitemZ370235247530QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

*** http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-Liquid-Intercooler-Heat-Exchanger-Turbo-Blower_W0QQitemZ390070500230QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad2037b86&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

3) Non-intercooled; it's a DD so you aren't too shouldn't be concerned about heat soak. Remember that a bigger turbo at lower boost will generally not get super-hot. Meth is a crappy band-aid, esp for daily driving. A side mount will yeild pitiful results for a 300whp goal, given the space you have. Think about the guys with JRSC's, running a roots blower that's less efficient than your turbo, and doing so w/o an intercooler.

4) Rear-mount turbo setup, which I've only seen done once, partially. You can then have a huge FMIC by moving the condensor & rad around, or have a much better A2W setup. I know the hatch/sedan/crx all have tons of space around the spare tire, the setup I saw simply boxed it in to create a 2-3 cubic feet cavity under/outside the car for the turbo.

The fact remains, it's a daily driver, and an EF at that. Not exactly easy to keep it unhacked.

[bigwig]

HiProfile, I can see your IC clear as day thus making is fagtastic for any DD.

[HiProfile]

I honestly don't care who thinks its faggy, then or now. It may be over-done in your area, but I can still count on my hands the number of front mounts I've seen on other cars - "stealthed" or otherwise. The people around here would burn your fucking eyes out with their poor taste in automotive parts; an exposed fmic would the least of your problems...