Topic: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop (Read 378041 times)

92CXyD · « **Reply #450 on:** July 09, 2025, 04:11:18 PM »

Did you use an inline brake booster 1 way valve?

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #451 on:** July 10, 2025, 01:03:16 PM »

There is no check valve, the valve is set to fully close above 2000 rpm

92CXyD · « **Reply #452 on:** July 11, 2025, 01:08:02 PM »

Quote from: fastivab6tg25mr on July 10, 2025, 01:03:16 PM

There is no check valve, the valve is set to fully close above 2000 rpm

I'd suggest using 1, if braking effort isn't up to snuff

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #453 on:** July 12, 2025, 07:38:16 PM »

I dont have a booster, it's just mechanical leverage

92CXyD · « **Reply #454 on:** July 13, 2025, 07:59:28 PM »

Quote from: fastivab6tg25mr on July 12, 2025, 07:38:16 PM

I dont have a booster, it's just mechanical leverage

oh ok

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #455 on:** August 01, 2025, 12:41:31 PM »

I forgot how small the battery is in this truck. I think 5 years is a pretty good run for a battery.

MTZ · « **Reply #456 on:** August 02, 2025, 06:30:39 PM »

Quote from: fastivab6tg25mr on August 01, 2025, 12:41:31 PM

I forgot how small the battery is in this truck. I think 5 years is a pretty good run for a battery.

thats a great run for such a small battery.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #457 on:** September 19, 2025, 06:26:28 PM »

Broke the TKX shifter again. The steel "Z" bar on the match box is all that keeps the shifter from overshooting the shift gates. At least the parts kits are cheap, so I bought 3. When I get to my last set ill buy a short shifter so I won't have to deal with it anymore.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #458 on:** September 24, 2025, 11:30:58 AM »

Added some extra A/C vents between the evaporator and the heater core for better cooling. The extra volume makes it cold inside with the windows up and they are the perfect height to blow right up the shorts to keep me cool with the windows down.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #459 on:** October 03, 2025, 11:46:30 AM »

This truck is cursed, how the hell does an alternator case break? Its a GM 1 wire from summit that is less than 2 months old.

92CXyD · « **Reply #460 on:** October 03, 2025, 12:58:48 PM »

Never like the CS style GM alternators, they usually have rear cooling issues and the diodes and voltage regulators usually get cooked.

When I worked in retail parts, I saw a tonne of these warranting out even the new ones from AC Delco. The rear housing was made to small and was poor cooling. The CS alternators for big rigs last longer, but they are bigger.

The older SI alternators are much more reliable, I like the 135amp from '85 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham.

But there are way more reliable alternators from Nippon/Mitsubishi/Bosch for Hondas/Toyotas/Nissians they make 130amp ones for about $100 usd.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #461 on:** October 03, 2025, 11:02:16 PM »

I'll look for another open option if if breaks again

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #462 on:** November 09, 2025, 12:24:47 PM »

It broke again in only 25 days, Summit took the Powermaster back and sent me a Top Street Performance one. I double checked everything i could think of that would make it my fault. The belt was loose enough to squeal on startup so it wasn't over tightened. The pulley is aligned and square. All the brackets are tight. I i keep being told that the problem is in the mounting but the factory Kia one has been in there a decade. I only replaced it cause the 70amps is not enough to run my A/C. I redesigned the tensioning bracket anyway just in case. I'm using a SBC bracket welded to my existing one.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #463 on:** December 07, 2025, 03:29:31 PM »

Needed to add a 50amp RV plug to power my TIG. While i was at it i got rid of the horrible looking flex conduit to my A/C. I didn't realize the Hobart TIG i got was 50amp cause it had a 30amp plug on it i assumed it was 30. It welded 1/8th just fine while i was practicing but when i went to build up the throttle body mount it just stopped making puddles then popped the breaker after 3 seconds of full throttle. It took all damn day to put that stupid outlet in. 50% of that time was trying to get the 6awg back in the boxes, that shit does not like to bend.

The build up is slow going cause the #17 torch i have gets hot pretty fast. It should be built up and ready to machine by the end of the day.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #464 on:** December 09, 2025, 01:43:37 AM »

Trusting the process of welding up and grinding back for the K24/ sportage hybrid intake manifold im making. Im not the best welder so finding zero porosity when grinding back was a huge relief. Tomorrow I'll drill and tap the holes to mount the 72mm throttle body. Then I can gasket match and smooth the transition into the plenum.

92CXyD · « **Reply #465 on:** December 09, 2025, 11:35:48 AM »

nice work, do you get much gas holes in those welds?

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #466 on:** December 09, 2025, 12:31:24 PM »

So far I have seen zero holes, no inclusions or porosity. I'm pretty stoked. I figured there would be something after doing over a 3/4" build up.

92CXyD · « **Reply #467 on:** December 11, 2025, 12:40:02 AM »

Quote from: fastivab6tg25mr on December 09, 2025, 12:31:24 PM

So far I have seen zero holes, no inclusions or porosity. I'm pretty stoked. I figured there would be something after doing over a 3/4" build up.

Nice!!

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #468 on:** December 13, 2025, 07:58:42 PM »

busy Saturday progress. now i need to pull everything off the tuck to position the new stuff to make the runners.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #469 on:** December 17, 2025, 12:10:11 PM »

I machined up some offset fuel injector cups to make the manifold perfectly match the fuel rail. Offsetting them .5mm didn't seem like it would do much but they are all 97mm on center now. The offset was easy enough, I machined the ID, loosened the chuck, put in a 0.5mm feeler gauge, machined the OD.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #470 on:** December 23, 2025, 11:59:47 AM »

More progress on the manifold. All that's left is mounting the fuel rail and making gaskets for the idle controller.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #471 on:** December 31, 2025, 10:18:58 PM »

gasket matched the manifold to the head, rewired the injector and throttle sensor connector. Is on and back running. Idle is now so stable. Cant wait for some warmer dry weather to see if it picked up any power.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #472 on:** December 31, 2025, 10:27:51 PM »

https://youtu.be/ln0D2bnbWX0

https://youtu.be/bgusQLTzBrc

92CXyD · « **Reply #473 on:** January 01, 2026, 01:31:16 PM »

Nice way to start new year!!!!

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #474 on:** January 02, 2026, 11:17:52 PM »

I knew my lower control arm mounts were cracked and I had a double shear fix planned but i didn't realize how bad they were until I started fixing it. The drivers side fell apart when it took the bolt out. That's probably why it developed a little bit of a shimmy on the freeway cause its gone now.

fastivab6tg25mr · « **Reply #475 on:** February 02, 2026, 03:57:53 PM »

The stupid alternator started cracking again. This is the last attempt to keep the CS130 GM 1 wire style. If the reinforcing cracks I'm going back to a Denso. I really don't want to have to redesign the mounting bracket for the 4th time.

92CXyD · « **Reply #476 on:** February 03, 2026, 02:22:55 PM »

In retail parts business, absolutely hates CS alternators, guaranteed warranty return.

I preferred the older SI family of alternators, if keep it in the GM group.

I use to run a 165amp alternator from '85 Fleetwood brougham, in my '77 GMC 3/4 LWB van.

Never had issues for 10 years, 3 wire 2 wire are just like the older 2 wire SIs, 3rd wire was ECU (ELD circuit) I believe.

Part of the problem CS alternators is not enough housing to absorb and manage heat from charging.

the large CS alternators used in 18 wheelers were a lot more reliable.

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Author Topic: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop (Read 378041 times)