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[onlyflash944]

uhh so what happens when the key is on and you plug in the A connector to the ecu?

i was doing a continuity test between A11 and the blue yellow wire i had hooked up to the iat plug (i'm pretty sure they were backward, thanks for the help), and i had the key in the on position.  wasn't thinking and plugged in the connector with the key on and now i get a solid cel the whole time while cranking and the ecu throws a 1 code on the service light in the ecu.  i hear the fuel pump prime and the main relay clicks.  all fuses look good.  did i fry the ecu?

[onlyflash944]

need some help


the cel won't go off.  All the fuses are fine.  i've cleaned up the tstat ground really well and ever since i plugged in the a ecu plug with the key on i can't get the damn cel to go away.  stays on while cranking the whole time.  with the key on i'm getting voltage to A12, A13, A14, and A15, but NOT A2 and A4.  wtf did i mess up?  main relay?

[onlyflash944]

i just reflowed all the joints on the main relay.  it clicks three times like it's supposed to.  CEL still stays on constantly

[chris]

solid ecu of death code



I have seen this either with a trashed ecu on a bad chip job but if it was working before you may have friend something in the board


I also have had that happen with the thermostat ground not being hooked up/bad connection also.


You have a spare ecu laying around? any obdo mpfi ecu will do the job. Also crack open that ecu and smell the board. I know it sounds like redneck shit but if you fried something you will smell it for sure. If you dont smell anything put the ecu under a shop light sometimes seeing burns on the board is hard to see in normal lighting.

[onlyflash944]

solid ecu of death code



I have seen this either with a trashed ecu on a bad chip job but if it was working before you may have friend something in the board


I also have had that happen with the thermostat ground not being hooked up/bad connection also.


You have a spare ecu laying around? any obdo mpfi ecu will do the job. Also crack open that ecu and smell the board. I know it sounds like redneck shit but if you fried something you will smell it for sure. If you dont smell anything put the ecu under a shop light sometimes seeing burns on the board is hard to see in normal lighting.

i have a pr3 i traded for, same code and issue.  Tstat ground shoudl be great.  car ran fine, then the ecu crapped out.  cleand up ground didn't fix problem.  i'll go over the board to see if i find anything obvious.

[onlyflash944]

sniff test is negative.  the ecu looks clean.  all caps look fine and there isn't anything burned up or black that i can tell.  i'll recheck all the fuses and grounds again tomorrow.  i fucking HATE electrical bull shit

[onlyflash944]

it appears not to be the ecu.  got a fresh pr4 from stevemode and the shit has the same problem.  i'm fucking tired of cars not running because of electrical bullshit.  why can't it just be a blown head gasket or something easy like that.


anyone else have any ideas?  guess im gonna start finding EVERY ground i can and sand it even though the car ran fine before this whole debacle

[chris]

Im assuming you popped a fuse but Im sure you checked that already.

[onlyflash944]

Im assuming you popped a fuse but Im sure you checked that already.

every fucking one, at least twice.  i'm going to swap every one with a new one, and take out the bolt in ones and replace with spares today.  maybe i'll get lucky

[chris]

fuel/spark which one doesnt it have?

[92CXyD]

fuel/spark which one doesnt it have?

Could be worse, no compression.

[onlyflash944]

fuel/spark which one doesnt it have?

fuel pump primes with key on.  main relay clicks like it's supposed to, all three times.  while cranking there is no spark and the CEL stays on constant. 

i have sanded t stat ground, front upper rad support to valve cover ground, every one of the bolt in big fuses under the hood, checked every blade style fuse in the vehicle, tried 4 different ecu's and all the exact same thing.  i guess it time to start tracing wires.  somewhere there is an open circut or something.  where else should i check the grounds at?

[chris]

Tstat ground is what I have seen cause the solid code ecu and not starting. I would persoanlly redo the whole tstat grounding it is 20 years old.


From my years that ground is the one that seems to really tweak everything out of its not happy.

[onlyflash944]

Tstat ground is what I have seen cause the solid code ecu and not starting. I would persoanlly redo the whole tstat grounding it is 20 years old.


From my years that ground is the one that seems to really tweak everything out of its not happy.

the tstat ground is super clean.  i have continuity between that and a shit ton of things in the ecu plugs.  i'm looking up where the wires on the ring terminal on the tstat ground go right now so i can bypass them and see if that helps.  i'm thinking a wire burnt in two or something.  this shit is wierd and frustrating as hell

[HiProfile]

Tstat ground is what I have seen cause the solid code ecu and not starting. I would persoanlly redo the whole tstat grounding it is 20 years old.


From my years that ground is the one that seems to really tweak everything out of its not happy.

the tstat ground is super clean.  i have continuity between that and a shit ton of things in the ecu plugs.  i'm looking up where the wires on the ring terminal on the tstat ground go right now so i can bypass them and see if that helps.  i'm thinking a wire burnt in two or something.  this shit is wierd and frustrating as hell

You can have all the continuity between ecu and THAT HALF of the t-stat housing... If the bolts are rusty and the threads pure white aluminum oxide dust, you won't get shit for continuity from the housing to the actual engine block. I always chase the threads on the housing and block, lap (sand flat) the housing halves where they touch, and also sand the parts where the block/housing meet.

If you wanted to try a full hotwire, feed+12v to the two white/green wires between main relay & ecu, and +12v to the yellow/blk wires on the injectors.

[onlyflash944]

Tstat ground is what I have seen cause the solid code ecu and not starting. I would persoanlly redo the whole tstat grounding it is 20 years old.


From my years that ground is the one that seems to really tweak everything out of its not happy.

the tstat ground is super clean.  i have continuity between that and a shit ton of things in the ecu plugs.  i'm looking up where the wires on the ring terminal on the tstat ground go right now so i can bypass them and see if that helps.  i'm thinking a wire burnt in two or something.  this shit is wierd and frustrating as hell

You can have all the continuity between ecu and THAT HALF of the t-stat housing... If the bolts are rusty and the threads pure white aluminum oxide dust, you won't get shit for continuity from the housing to the actual engine block. I always chase the threads on the housing and block, lap (sand flat) the housing halves where they touch, and also sand the parts where the block/housing meet.

If you wanted to try a full hotwire, feed+12v to the two white/green wires between main relay & ecu, and +12v to the yellow/blk wires on the injectors.

the shit was cleaned up good when i put the new tstat in when i 'rebuilt' the motor.  i will double check and since i just filled it with water it won't be hard to do.  i was also thinking about just connecting every ground to each other that i can find. 


the hot wire sound like it might burn the car to the gorund.  that would probably be okay with me right now, as long as it doesn't take out the 944 that is sitting beside it

[onlyflash944]

ok, so with the key ON, i'm only getting about 10 milliVolts (0.01 Volts) at the injectors.  sound like i need a new main relay?

there is continuity between the injector wire with the resistor and the main relay at terminals 4, 5, and 7 with key off




found a very useful site:
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

[92CXyD]

found a very useful site:
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

Bookmarked looks helpful. ;D :yes:

[onlyflash944]

it wasn't the main relay causing problems.  one from the pick and pull didn't change the constant CEL symptom.

could it be something in the dizzy gone bad?

[PHILLYSLEEPER]

Any Update???

[onlyflash944]

Any Update???

uhh yea.  swapped all the internals in the dizzy with some other obd0 ones i had floating around.  it will start and run great, except for the code 14.  i'm at a loss because with iacv plugged in it throws a code like 10 sec after start up, with several different ecus.  drives fine until it gets warm.  same story with the sensor unplugged.  so whatever.

the bigger problem.  once the car gets warm and i start driving it, it pops the ecu fuse.  when it pops the fuse, i can replace it immediately and turn the key to the key on position and it pops it again.  i have to let it cool down a little and throw a new fuse in to get it back running, just for a short stent. 

the other day, when i found out about the fuse problem, i took the car on the highway and got stranded like 3 min from my house.  it kept poping fuses and i didn't have the right tags on the car so i wanted to get off the highway as soon as possible to avoid any 5-0 visits.  i used a wire to jump the fuse connection just to get it home and the ecu i believe went to limp mode.  probably burned something up.  it wouldn't rev pas 3k on the way home so whatever, i have a few more of them to try.

readers digest:
car runs, iacv has some issues and keeps blowing ecu fuses
i fucking hate electrical bull shit

[PHILLYSLEEPER]

Did you try swapping the plugs... iacv & iat on the back, they have the same plug..

[Joseph Davis]

Did you try swapping the plugs... iacv & iat on the back, they have the same plug..

Blindly swapping those plugs "just to see" is the #1 killer of IATs and ECUs, fucktard.  Don't EVER do that shit.

[onlyflash944]

the 2p connector for the iacv is the correct one.  however, the integrity of the wiring going to it is still suspect

[chris]

word melted iat sensors are no good. Do any of the newer forms of crome have an option to disable the iacv?

[onlyflash944]

word melted iat sensors are no good. Do any of the newer forms of crome have an option to disable the iacv?

obd0 boss, i ain't doin a conversion.  but i do have a chipped pr4 that i could use something for


might be worth looking into

[onlyflash944]

Well i've done some wire tracing and it looks like fuse 37 (ECU under hood fuse) runs from the power distribution to the main relay.  I'm going to try and replace the white/yellow wire than runs between the two with something else and hopefully that will solve the problem.  If it doesn't then I'm still taking it to the strip tomorrow on a trailer cause I'm tired of not getting to run.  I'll just keep the car cool and hope for the best.

[Towdogg]

Any updates?

[onlyflash944]

replaced wire, no more fuse problem.  went to strip and i think i blew out a cv joint.  it vibrates bad under power but goes away when coasting.  haven't had time to fix yet, but will soon as i need it sold.  i found a nice awd wagon that is rust free and needs a engine so that will be next.

[Joseph Davis]

Sounds like inner joint is binding.