Topic: Car wants to stall when slowing down for a stop sign etc (Read 10773 times)

accordepicenter · « **on:** May 14, 2010, 10:08:42 PM »

My built setup is running, and the wideband says the afr is good across the board...

heres the setup:
Built 9.3:1 accord A20
Forged pistons/rods
Ported head w/race valves/retainers/springs
Mild NA cam
AEBS Typhoon intake mani (B16A)
ITR TB
SC61 w/topmount mani and 38mm tial gate
Precision 880s
OBD1 P06 Chipped ecu

The car is running and runs fine except somtimes when idling it stumbles and dies for no apparent reason,
and likes to die if you push the clutch in when you slow down for stop signs and traffic lights etc. Does it almost every time unless you leave it in gear as you slow down until your at like 2000rpm or less, or it dies.

Any idea why it does that? Weve tried messing with the idle via crome, which has an effect but it still wants to do it... My only idea is that the idle screw on the TB is seized up and i havent been able to adjust it, that maybe the engine wants more air than the IACV is capable of... i mean, its a bigger engine than the ITR... Even so im pulling good vaccuum

bigwig · « **Reply #1 on:** May 14, 2010, 10:11:15 PM »

Flywheel weight?

Increase your moving idle rpm.

accordepicenter · « **Reply #2 on:** May 14, 2010, 10:23:39 PM »

oops i forgot, it has an 8lb aasco flywheel and clutchnet dual diaphram 6 puck clutch in it

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 14, 2010, 10:53:01 PM »

Quote from: bigwig on May 14, 2010, 10:11:15 PM

Flywheel weight?

Increase your moving idle rpm.

bingo

accordepicenter · « **Reply #4 on:** May 14, 2010, 11:12:28 PM »

also, vss is disabled due to the mechanical speedo in my car, so can i just increase the idle across the board?

lilpooh21186 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 15, 2010, 12:11:49 PM »

increase your moving idle be done

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #6 on:** May 16, 2010, 09:45:16 AM »

Such observation, littlepoop.

Uhm, we were talking about you yesterday as there was a built A20 LX-i at the RHMT dyno day that was everyone's favorite. FUCK YOU for not posting more.

Anyway, you need to open up your TB and close the IACV. The IACV is great and all, but the ECU doesn't react fast enough to catch the idle on decel unless there's enough flow across the TB to help it out.

Also, VSS can be added to the VSS-less Civic/CRX of that era so I am sure you can as well. I'll post a link or pics when I get home tomorrow.

accordepicenter · « **Reply #7 on:** May 17, 2010, 12:15:01 AM »

Sorry JD, havent really had the chance to get vids, my brakes are fubared up, so i have to get them fixed before really ripping around. Waiting for parts currently... Needs a wheel cylinder and gonna put a master cyl in it for good measure, there is alot of junk floating around in the reservoir... Whos built accord was at the rhmt dyno day? Any info or specs on that car? Anyway, heres the info on mine

Parts list:

Built Race ported head
Golden eagle cam gear
Si industries valves/retainers/springs
Bullfrog cam
AEBS Typhoon B16 intake mani with ITR TB
2.5" Charge piping with 1G dsm bov
JRC 8" FMIC
Diamond Forged pistons
Eagle H beam rods
Toga Oil pump
ARP head studs
Stealthmodeperformance oil lines
8lb aasco flywheel
Clutchnet Dual diaphram 6 puck sprung race clutch
Solid motor mounts
3" Downpipe and 3" E cutout with the stock exhaust used in non bypass mode
255lph intank walbro fuel pump
Precision 880cc injectors
GM 3 bar map sensor
custom topmount turbo mani
Precision SC6152 with S trim compressor (think GT35R)
38mm tial external wastegate
innovate LC-1 wideband 02 sensor
Deka ETX14 battery
90-91 accord distributor (internal coil) with adaptor kit
92-95 Civic P06 ECU chipped
triple core civic radiator with slimfan
Mickey Thompson ET Street DOT Drag radials

The car is still really dusty but here are some pics:

Poor quality vid:
0429001227.3g2

The e cutout is open, thats why it sounds iffy

onlyflash944 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 24, 2010, 10:54:05 AM »

good looking build. really like the work on the cut out.

92CXyD · « **Reply #9 on:** May 24, 2010, 03:20:11 PM »

That is a great build you got there. :yes: ;D

98vtec · « **Reply #10 on:** May 24, 2010, 04:35:06 PM »

i really dislike those injectors

the few sets i have tuned wanted to idle in the high 12's in order to be smooth.

92CXyD · « **Reply #11 on:** May 24, 2010, 04:47:55 PM »

Quote from: 98vtec on May 24, 2010, 04:35:06 PM

i really dislike those injectors

the few sets i have tuned wanted to idle in the high 12's in order to be smooth.

I have the 75#/788cc Delphis and they work great. ;D

accordepicenter · « **Reply #12 on:** May 24, 2010, 05:49:41 PM »

thanks guys!

Yea, at idle it does need to be below like 13 ish afr... not sure why though

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #13 on:** May 24, 2010, 08:10:23 PM »

Worst I've ever seen is high 13s, and usually only with one set out of five of the 880/1000cc.

accordepicenter · « **Reply #14 on:** May 26, 2010, 12:40:27 AM »

JD wtf is is with that? Do the injectors themselves just get lazy at idle with the very low duration or what?

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #15 on:** May 26, 2010, 03:59:31 AM »

Old school cores, not flow matched at low injector openings.

98vtec · « **Reply #16 on:** May 26, 2010, 11:42:44 AM »

Joseph Davis · « **Reply #17 on:** May 26, 2010, 12:19:48 PM »

Ah, yes, the voice of experience.

SQ is the SQUAD · « **Reply #18 on:** May 26, 2010, 08:32:17 PM »

looking good. once i move into a house with a garage again ill hinisy up my 89 coupe. i got a p8r b20 head, doi ng to bore out my ls block to 85mm and rewire the car with a 93 integra wire harness (complete wirirng) that way ill be obd1, the car will still be set up for cable tranny and i can tuck it all at once.

accordepicenter · « **Reply #19 on:** May 27, 2010, 10:24:03 PM »

Yeah Victor, you still got your car too hehe. So what do you reccomend for injectors JD? Incase i upgrade

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Author Topic: Car wants to stall when slowing down for a stop sign etc (Read 10773 times)

bigwig