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[Jorsher]

CRX bushings/suspension is 20 years old and a lot of the bushings are shredded.  I'm going to put off boost until it's all replaced, as much as I want the car to be quicker...

Energy Suspension bushing kit:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Energy-Suspension-Hyperflex-Bushing-Kit-16-18102G-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZModelQ3aCRXQQhashZitem563d7b68e0QQitemZ370398685408QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_5373wt_897

Ball joints with gay blue boots:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRONT-LOWER-BALL-JOINT-HONDA-CRX-91-90-89-88-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5193212f85QQitemZ350360776581QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_863wt_1058

Koni Yellows:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Koni-Yellow-Sport-Shocks-1989-1991-Civic-CRX-90-Honda-/280302609781?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4143566575#ht_500wt_943

Ground Control springs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GROUND-CONTROL-COILOVER-SPRINGS-88-89-90-91-CIVIC-CRX-/350333916953?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5191875719#ht_2433wt_1165
Haven't decided on a spring rate yet, but will most likely go with slightly stiffer than stock.  It's a DD.

I think I will pass on sway bars and such for now since it will see little, if any, track time and money could be better spent elsewhere.

Am I missing anything?  Sway bar bushings?

[2slow]

Sway bar bushings should come with the master bushing set

[runsfromdacops]

i hope you have a perss and alot of time. :yes:

[Jorsher]

i hope you have a perss and alot of time. :yes:

So I've heard.

I'll read, read, read before I attempt it, and hopefully save an hour...

Definitely will be a weekend project.

[snm95ls]

Some careful sawzall action works wonders for getting the outer sheels to press out of the LCAs.

The bushings are a bitch, but everything else is cake as long as you don't have any seized bolts.

[forcdincivic]

nice suspension setup, but good luck on those bushings!

[2slow]

They dont "need" to go in all at one time so even if it takes you a while to do it there is always next weekdend

[Jorsher]

Some careful sawzall action works wonders for getting the outer sheels to press out of the LCAs.

The bushings are a bitch, but everything else is cake as long as you don't have any seized bolts.

JD recently spit the sawzall/cutting advice at me.

I'm not looking forward to this but it needs to be done.

If I find some good tips while reading around I'll do a quick write-up.  I'm sure a lot of the bolts are seized.  Not only is it my luck, but the car is old as fuck with a ton of miles.

[crxvtec91]

I wouldn't trust ebay Ball joints in a y49(or any car for that matter), rockauto has them super cheap!

Also use oem rear trailing arm bushings, no poly.

[Jorsher]

Also use oem rear trailing arm bushings, no poly.

Could you satiate my curiosity by explaining why?

[dvst8r]

Also use oem rear trailing arm bushings, no poly.

Could you satiate my curiosity by explaining why?

Iirc poly doesn't flex well were it needs to, and as such changes the suspension geometry. I also seem to recall because of this continual binding, it wears out a lot faster as well.

[MAJORAHOLE]

i've read as long as you clock it (if its lowered) theres not a big issue with binding/squeeking. no experience though

[Jorsher]

What does clock it mean?

I may go ahead and use them since they come with the kit.  Worst case they will wear out quickly and I'll have to replace with OEM.  Best case, a myth is debunked and I didn't spend money on more parts.

Thanks for the tip though.  Now I know to watch for it.

[jagojon3]

Clocking means to rotate it so it is not constantly twisted excessively as in lowered setups. It relieves some of the stress and makes it last longer.

[snm95ls]

Clocking means to rotate it so it is not constantly twisted excessively as in lowered setups. It relieves some of the stress and makes it last longer.

Which only applies to OEM style rubber bonded rear trailing arm bushings.

I wouldn't use poly RTABs, but that is me.  OEM style or spherical are the only ways I would go unless the toe arms are removed.  That joint is meant to do more than just rotate and plunge about the center pin.  I moves in several axes.

[HiProfile]

JD recently spit the sawzall/cutting advice at me.

*Milwaukee Torch blade at medium speed (don't overheat) will eat any Honda bolts.

*Then use an actual torch to burn the rubber bushings out (literally). I burn one while I'm installing another bushing.

*Then use a hacksaw to cut through the remaining metal ring. I disassemble and reassemble with the blade through the hole. A sawzall will cut through stock arms faster than you can say FUUUUUUUUUUUUUU....


I had about 10k miles on my EF suspension, everything was fine afterwards. I just greased the piss out of them. I can tell you that car was the tightest ED3 I've ever driven. When I made it a DD for school, I put some cut '00 GSR springs on it, 1-finger wheel gap. With illuminas that was the perfect DD.  42mpg as well. Just add a ST 22mm rear sway and you're set

[Jorsher]

JD recently spit the sawzall/cutting advice at me.

*Milwaukee Torch blade at medium speed (don't overheat) will eat any Honda bolts.

*Then use an actual torch to burn the rubber bushings out (literally). I burn one while I'm installing another bushing.

*Then use a hacksaw to cut through the remaining metal ring. I disassemble and reassemble with the blade through the hole. A sawzall will cut through stock arms faster than you can say FUUUUUUUUUUUUUU....


I had about 10k miles on my EF suspension, everything was fine afterwards. I just greased the piss out of them. I can tell you that car was the tightest ED3 I've ever driven. When I made it a DD for school, I put some cut '00 GSR springs on it, 1-finger wheel gap. With illuminas that was the perfect DD.  42mpg as well. Just add a ST 22mm rear sway and you're set

Very helpful.

I'm having trouble trying to picture it but I'm sure I'll figure it out when I get to it.

[HiProfile]

For the torch, I put the arm angled on a pipe, then put the flame at a slight angle flowing through the bushing's inner hole.

For the hacksaw part, grab the uninstalled blade and stick it halfway through the LCA hole. Then install on the hacksaw handle. Think of threading a needle, then clamping both ends.

[Joseph Davis]

Call up Jay at GC and see if he can make you a deal on the coilovers and Yellows as a set.  You will enjoy, I guarantee.

[Jorsher]

Call up Jay at GC and see if he can make you a deal on the coilovers and Yellows as a set.  You will enjoy, I guarantee.

Hm, does he match the yellows?

CRX will be heading back to the trailer park as soon as I find some cheap turbo stuff.

[Joseph Davis]

I would not be surprised to find out he matches and/or revalves them.  GC is big mojo in the auto-x and roadrace circles.

[Jorsher]

I would not be surprised to find out he matches and/or revalves them.  GC is big mojo in the auto-x and roadrace circles.

How do I get in contact with this person?

[Joseph Davis]

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/contactForm.php


Says the contact guy is named Mark.  Jay's been at it 20 years that I know of, maybe he's semi-retired?

[rudebwoy]

I burn all of my stock bushing out and cut the sleeves with a jig saw to remove them . front lower control arms and rear trailing arms

[Jorsher]

JD, apparently he's still there just not the POC for support.

Anyway thanks for the link, looks like they match their stuff, and I was trying to avoid buying from ebay as I was sure that they don't.

[Joseph Davis]

Tell them you are Jorsher, and point them towards polls proving your penis is god.  Discounts are sure to follow.

[onlyflash944]

Call up Jay at GC and see if he can make you a deal on the coilovers and Yellows as a set.  You will enjoy, I guarantee.

Hm, does he match the yellows?

CRX will be heading back to the trailer park as soon as I find some cheap turbo stuff.

per who ever bone told me to call at Koni, off the shelf yellows are good for aboujt 600lbs/in max.  any more spring rate than that and you kill the shock quickly.  but get a revalve and you are good for the up to 1200lbs/in spine crushing goodness.  personally, i plan on a revalve and a good shortening when i get real serious about auto-xing  aka,probably never)

per me, fwd cars with little to no suspension mods want more spring in the rear than the front

[Joseph Davis]

Remove the front swaybar, stiffen the rear, and then tell me what you think.

[onlyflash944]

JDSTT, biggest rear sway bar you can find, but might want to reinforce subframe if it's an eg at least, but not sure about remove front, i would rock a stocker but definatley not aftermarket.


(that jd speaks the truth)

[snm95ls]

Remove the front swaybar, stiffen the rear, and then tell me what you think.

It worked wonders on my ED.  I'd rather upgrade to a stiffer bar in the rear and add an Hf front bar though.  You know you are a fucking nerd when you look up the formulas for torsional rigidity to to compare a DA front bar to an Si and Hf bar to see if it would be somewhat comparable, yet possibly save some weight.

Even with a 3 mm wall thickness it is still too stiff.  Dammit!

BTW, RE-11s are kind of brutal (for a street tire) when you loose traction during a slide then regain it.  I like it htough.

 ;D