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[Joseph Davis]

My "driving mentor" was 2003 Solo 1 national champ, BMW school driving instructor, 2009 Wolf Ridge Hillclimb King of the Hill, and a bunch of other shit I can't remember.  Anything you care about handling well, you remove the front sway on FWD and remove the rear sway on a RWD, and you play with the sway on the non-drive axle.  Generally making it stiffer, for FWD anyway.  The solitary exception to this is when you shit the sort of money that allows you to afford a pure spring setup where you run 800+ lb springs on each corner, for medium weight vehicles like Porsche 1200-1600 lb springs are common.  The damper for such a setup are not cheap.

[snm95ls]

I am a noob at this compared to many, so my experience with trying out different part combinations is limited.

The only thing I do not care for with the front bar removed/disconnected is the lack of steering crispness/sharpness although that could possibly be remedied a number of different ways.  I think a quicker rack would help out, but I haven't looked into he legalities of if for SOLO purposes.

Being new to Solo, and running with Street Prepared PAX sucks ass.  I would have been in SM before I de-modded the car.

FML.

I have been eyeballing a set of AST coilovers with high and low speed compression adjustment with a single rebound adjustment, but the lack of dealers geared towards Honduhs combined with my lack of driving experience and money have prevented me from actually trying to get a hold of a set.

Apparently KW makes a set as well, and I really am pretty impressed(for the price I paid) with my Eibach re-badged KW coilovers right now.

Seat time and simple tweaks needs to come before any of that nonsense though.

Threadjack?

[Joseph Davis]

Feel is not always Reality.  The drive wheels need to stay planted at all loads and speeds, and that doesn't happen with a swaybar mucking about trying to lift load off of the wheel that most needs it.

Beware "adjustable" suspension, without a dyno you are adjusting for Feel - not Reality.

[snm95ls]

Feel is not always Reality.  The drive wheels need to stay planted at all loads and speeds, and that doesn't happen with a swaybar mucking about trying to lift load off of the wheel that most needs it.

Beware "adjustable" suspension, without a dyno you are adjusting for Feel - not Reality.

I understand this which is why my times dropped a noticeable amount.  Granted it is hard to compare one course to the next, but the gap between myself and the better drivers was less.  There seems to be a hell of a lot more driver input needed without the front bar, but I have only run the car this way for one event which was far more compact and technical than the previous course.

I don't believe in adjustable dampers for noobs, hence why mine are not.

Who says you have to have access to a dyno though.  Why not use datalogging with position sensors on each shock to look at hysteresis, and make changes from there? 

[dvst8r]

...Why not use datalogging with position sensors on each shock to look at hysteresis, and make changes from there? 

This works, just like street tuning with data-logging for engine performance, just takes longer to acquire and analyze and then make the necessary changes. It also can be tough to get the extreme ends of the spectrum.

[Joseph Davis]

Who says you have to have access to a dyno though.  Why not use datalogging with position sensors on each shock to look at hysteresis, and make changes from there? 

Shock dyno is like chassis dyno.  It gets you close, the car always responds to real world adjustments based on track times.  Small changes, small gains, true, but for anyone mid-level (ambition, skill, professionally, etc) or higher it's needed.  

[onlyflash944]

exactly, i have 'adjustable' shocks, but they are on only one setting whenit comes to auto-x time

i'm not NEARLY good enough to be able to tell a difference in the settings,  i do mostly feel and theory for a setup

[Lowerit]

My "driving mentor" was 2003 Solo 1 national champ, BMW school driving instructor, 2009 Wolf Ridge Hillclimb King of the Hill, and a bunch of other shit I can't remember.  Anything you care about handling well, you remove the front sway on FWD and remove the rear sway on a RWD, and you play with the sway on the non-drive axle.  Generally making it stiffer, for FWD anyway.  The solitary exception to this is when you shit the sort of money that allows you to afford a pure spring setup where you run 800+ lb springs on each corner, for medium weight vehicles like Porsche 1200-1600 lb springs are common.  The damper for such a setup are not cheap.

I wouldn't dare argue with the grand wizard as my understanding of FWD cars , and each one I have had is setup in the same fashion, and the most commonly  suggested setup on SCCA forums.

But @ the nationals this year the setup  was the exact opposite for the top placing civic. Through folley my daily SiR has a similar setup and it works well.  The previous owner put on Koni yellows , stiffer GC springs up fron (550) and 450 in the rear with the mentality that the front of the car is heavier.  I have yet to try it on the track , but I can tell you it doesn't understeer @ the limit , and induced oversteer is as easy as the traditional soft front / stiff rear setup. I also have the rear bar off.

[onlyflash944]

My "driving mentor" was 2003 Solo 1 national champ, BMW school driving instructor, 2009 Wolf Ridge Hillclimb King of the Hill, and a bunch of other shit I can't remember.  Anything you care about handling well, you remove the front sway on FWD and remove the rear sway on a RWD, and you play with the sway on the non-drive axle.  Generally making it stiffer, for FWD anyway.  The solitary exception to this is when you shit the sort of money that allows you to afford a pure spring setup where you run 800+ lb springs on each corner, for medium weight vehicles like Porsche 1200-1600 lb springs are common.  The damper for such a setup are not cheap.

I wouldn't dare argue with the grand wizard as my understanding of FWD cars , and each one I have had is setup in the same fashion, and the most commonly  suggested setup on SCCA forums.

But @ the nationals this year the setup  was the exact opposite for the top placing civic. Through folley my daily SiR has a similar setup and it works well.  The previous owner put on Koni yellows , stiffer GC springs up fron (550) and 450 in the rear with the mentality that the front of the car is heavier.  I have yet to try it on the track , but I can tell you it doesn't understeer @ the limit , and induced oversteer is as easy as the traditional soft front / stiff rear setup. I also have the rear bar off.

anyone can make a civic oversteer before it pushes through a turn.  put 45 pounds in the rear tires

[snm95ls]

anyone can make a civic oversteer before it pushes through a turn.  put 45 pounds in the rear tires

From what I understand, over-inflation is a lot less predictable than under-inflation.  I chose to try out the latter, and it did add a small amount of oversteer even before I got the rear stabilizer bar installed.