I've been checking out the h2b madness in the H-T Hybrid forum, and saw a thread about this. Seems that if you use the bolt holes on the top nearest the manifold, then angle the motor back 20*, the crank and input shaft line up. You then have to drill a hole in the h-block to use that first b-trans bolt hole nearest the slave cylinder. Then you make a engine mount bracket out of steel plate. I would assume of of these nogs don't even connect the half shaft bracket to the block, although 2-6 holes in that plate steel and some weldage would make an adapter pretty easy. After that you weld up a header/DP and you're fine. Given the space needed for the manifold, you might have to move some firewall crap.
Anyways, h2b adapter plate creation isn't all that hard. You simply have to get the crank and input shaft lined up; the machined faces already keep them parallel. The hard part is repeatability, which requires the dowel pin holes drilled precisely. The other stuff, machining and welding, should be as easy to a RHMT'er than wiping one's ass after a massive BDVT-esque shit.
1) Engine Dowels You'd drill engine dowel holes in the plate, since they are somewhat arbitrary. At this point you just need precise spacing from each other. You drill those, slap on a F/H motor & tranny, then use the trans bolt holes to find where to drill.
2) Tranny Dowels Using JD's shaft idea lengthened a few inches, you could use a dowel pin with a plum bob sticking out it's center to find the tranny dowel holes. You could also use a few identical turned spacers, but you'd have to have to locate crank center using a plum bob in a similar fasion. At this point, you'll decide what angle to set the engine at. Judging from pictures, QSD keeps the top row of engine/trans bolts near the head parallel. Finishing the holes with a reamer would serve you well.
You could also puss out, take the engine block & trans to a machinist, and have him replicate the dowel pin/centerline "triangles" on the plate.
3) Other Holes Stick the trans on with dowel pins and make your trans/etc holes as needed, along with cutting the big-ass flywheel/starter hole.
4) Turn the crank spacer You only need the thickness to be the difference between the h-block and b-blocks' crank-lip-to-bellhousing-edge distance (if thats even different), plus the plate thickness. Machine one end to fit inside the flywheel nice & tight, and the other end to fit over the crankshaft like the FW normally does. The 8 holes don't have to be remotely perfect if you machine the lips well.
5) Misc. Fabbing Weld the required engine & halfshaft brackets, along with the header/DP.
IMO the worst DIY part would be cutting the giant hole for the flywheel & the outside shap, but a sawzall would sufice since this is Sparta RHMT.
Of course, like turbocharging a ZC in 1999, it's easier said than done...but doable with basic tools beside a lathe and welder. At this point in my life, it would be cheaper to spend freetime on this than working long enough to buy a QSD kit.
Author
Topic: H2B with no adapter plate (Read 17483 times)