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[turbohf]

last time I cleared a valve cover it tinted it a funny color... probably not much effect on black?

[Ntrain2k]

Gloss black, once it fully dries I would hit all the letters and raised areas with a file and then clear the whole thing.

^this^

[carkrazed]

I'm gonna try hydro dipping my next valve cover. I some some shit awhile back that came in gloss colors and was supposed to hold up better than spray paint.

[turbohf]

ok, update on this thing   i havent had internet for a month. do damn lazy to fight with photobucket and mobile posting...


i ever tell you i hate red?

used like a hole can of aircraft paint remover on this bastard! it spent time in the parts washer at work. then i just wire wheeled the shit out of it, like 3 batteries with. 


looking better...


sexy

no pic on the car as of course it was dark when i was finished and never bothered to take another pic... also installed with brand new gasket kit, Hondabond on corners over the cam caps, etc. fired it off and looked legit with no leaks!!!! 

then it started idle hunting and pissing me the hell off.

plugged the laptop in...umm that say 11.1v?? fuck. volt meter shows 8.48v on battery... so figured that she had finally went TU.... retards at parts store charged her up, they claimed. showed 12.4v so whatever.... fires off fine, then idle hunts again! figures. and its a bitch to get to. but turns out easier with my new turbo/radiator setup. poked it with volt meter before pulling, still 11.5v or so.
took it to retard parts store, where it took like 20mins for him to test it... yeah i will keep calling them retarded.


pic sucks.

so lets count the reasons why this may of took a shit on me?
downpipe/turbo heats the shit out of it?
maybe the fact its soaked in oil?
then i soak it in brake cleaner? lol
or maybe that its some random junkyard probably 75amp (suppose to be 90amp i guess) alternator i found sitting in engine bay of DSM. it did have OEM Mitsubishi Reman tag on it though.
oh and its a bitch to get to, and to find one, and would piss me off...


so i took it apart


oh, thats probably the reason? brushes are toast. and one was kinda stuck in bore (no springyness to it)


mostly cleaned up and ready to go??

NOPE. back to retard parts store for test...and then the smoke came out. and as im sure you know once it comes out, it doesnt go back in... or it was just toast anyway and smoked up from parts cleaner and shit. whatever

bought a brand new (non-reman) unit, should be here next week or 2.


 

[turbohf]

i can not begin to explain the level of hate and frustration i have right now.

this alternator doesnt fuckin fit. i ordered it off amazon. it took 3 days+ to ship, then 7+ for UPS to deliver the fuckin thing. by then i just waited for the weekend so i didnt have to install in the cold/wet/dark. and the fuckin thing doesnt even fit. the mouting ears are like 1/2" to narrow.

i think? i filed a claim on amazon. they just sent me a fuckin return label. so i can pay to return the part that doesnt fit?? and wait a week to get back to them?? so they can give me a refund i DONT WANT. i want my working fuckin alternator i paid for 2weeks ago.... oh im sure they will offer to send me a new one? if someone actually would answer a phone or call me back in a couple MORE days. have to wait another week, and HOPE its actually going to fit...

paid for Dec 4th
shipped Dec 8th
delivered Dec 15th


i got some hate right now.


 

[ratcityrex]

Lame, auto parts store it is. Get a reman from vatozone.

[turbohf]

i have researched this as i do most my items i purchase. autozone or most any of the parts store remans are junk. several posts on the VR4 forum about it. some guys making it 3months, some replacing 3 in 3 months. its not the easiest thing to replace, and like i said for whatever reason mine didnt even throw the battery/charge light on this time. so it could definitely leave me stranded if it did the same again.

seems this mitsubishi alternators dont take well to aftermarket shops hack reman procedures. one in my car for the past 4 years was a used factory reman. figure it had a long life. but they are no longer available, i called, he said none even in the country showing at a dealer still.

talked to buddy about it (that also worked a parts store forever) and he said dont buy a reman, from 1st hand experience. he searched till he found a NEW unit and bought 2 of them. he runs the Galant one on his DSM;s.


anyway. filed a return claim thing. and also emailed them about the issue. will probably waste my lunch on monday buy calling them on it also.

[ratcityrex]

Good thing you have a reliable vehicle. Never though I would say that a chevy truck is more of a reliable vehicle then a mitsu....haha

[turbohf]

yeah. times are changing lol. the LSX is solid platform. shit at 225k with what i hope is a just a lifter tick i have no problems jumping in and mobbing off to wherever. check the oil once a month or so for giggles.

i would love to comment that my mitsu is reliable, cuz i do feel it is, but i did buy the truck as i thought it was stock and therefor more reliable...or at least less finicky. and true so far.

but the truck doesnt do so well in the rain (junk tires im sure mostly problem), so im assuming in the snow complete garbage. and really i would just love to drive my Galant again. i hate seeing her sit.


looks like i have a dialog started via email with alternator shop. trying to send pics.

[turbohf]

I know its so simple, yet so difficult at the same time...

brand new alternator tuned into a cluster fuck. in which the amazon retailer will take no responsibility for, fucks. ad discription and interchange part numbers are what I need, alternator shipped was for a different application. they made ME pay shipping back, and charged me a restock. so I'm out 60bucks for their mistake?!??!
so a big fuck you to: rareelectrical and amazon.com. (amazon has yet to do anything but 'forward my concern')

went to buddies house, dug around. ended up swiping a random used Mitsubishi alternator from his place. went and tested it at parts store. it would pass one time fail the next. was showing just on the max volts threshold. ehh, works for me.

installed, tested, everything seems good after a rip around the block and resetting my idle.


for sale, $12,500... contact me for further info.... kinda thinking I'm possibility serious...

[turbohf]

YES, I DO STILL OWN THIS.... it just fuckin sits there...

week, or 2 ago i moved the galant to in front of the garage to look at it. once i could see it it was sorry looking. damn near growing moss. LOTS of pollen on it. shit is like concrete. i had been trying to drive it at least once a weekend. but its back to or still leaking oil, had been noticing some coolant missing, but it always seemed to disapear some. anyway gave her a good simple green scrub down on the outside and quick wash, missed a spot. close enough for someone that rarely washes his cars.

i jack it up. hose her down with brake clean. notice that the driveway spot seems to have moved? clean/dry off. fire her off on the jack.    and look for leaks. just a little seep at the oil drain, figured it was worse? start looking at timing cover side. fuck its dripping. oil is fresh. but notice quickly that its not oil. about the time i realize its coolant, its damn near pissing a steady drip. then i look over at oil filter housing, oh its leaking oil from there... sweet.

so water pump means you just replace the timing belt too. while its NOT driven off the timing belt, the pump is BEHIND the tensioner and its pulley. fucks. along with not one, but TWO pulleys being bolted to it. makes this a fun job.
not really that hard i guess when considering transverse mounted engine timing belt jobs. but i just hate this water pump/pulley situation.



Galant forum said buy the AISIN its the "oem brand"... cool. same one thats on the car now. and its leaking.
Galant forum said buy a Gates belt. so i did... helped that they had part numbers posted, and i just bought the cheapest ones i could find. like 25 for belt, 36 for pump?



new water pipe oring, new gasket on cleaned up surface + hondabond (nice seal, more that it holds the gasket).
btw. little helpful tip from buddy Bryan, jack the motor up a little, and you slide the pump out through the motor mount pocket. win.

i smothered the oil drain in Hondabond also if you were doubting that i would. also replaced bolt that was just fuckin missing out of the oil filter housing, and torqued the shit out of all the bolts i could see on the front of the motor.

maybe tomorrow...or next week... ill throw the timing belt on, probably have bryan check it, then drive it a couple days to see it still leaks oil, but not coolant. then it sits again... fun times.



 

[turbohf]

i got this all back together, once the ignition module was plugged back in, and the jump box (aka jumpers on nova battery lol) it fired right off. runs mint. should, it ran before lol. once the coolant got bled the idle settled out. took it for a drive, everything seems great. battery once again stone dead this morning, bonehead move on my part with map light    stopped for gas and started fine but it did seem to mark its territory LOL. so fuck.

so sitrep:
no more coolant leak.
fresh timing belt.
fixed most the oil leak lol  (still seems to be oil drain area)
with fan 100% on, and 65* outside putting around it wants to be 200-205*. so fuck.
one of my pulls after getting gas i thought i felt the clutch slip, did another after and didnt notice it.
still needs tune...bad. its super rich 75-100% throttle.

needs:
expensive high cfm fan...not cheap china fan that claims cfm.
tune
brake lines
clutch
motivation.


so look for an update in 3-6months when it really needs a clutch, and motivation....


 

[turbohf]

ok so tomorrow it is suppose to hit 80*, thats gonna suck, means i will drive the truck. not because i didnt finish, but it has AC.


anyway. so cooling... been driving this around and noticed that if i dont have the fan on it sometimes maintains its temp while moving. if its below like 65 outside.

idea is and was before i ever started it with this setup, that the fan/shroud i have sucks and is blocking airflow. then once the fan is on (at low speeds, as i believe at speed with it on it is also blocking air flow) it really doesnt have the CFM to keep up.

so i bought:

yes. a Flex-a-Lite 365... a $225 fan to put on my $120 radiator?...

it fit my replacement china aluminum radiator i bought on ebay even though it says its for a Scirroco radiator that i have? no. not really. but even looking at it that really isnt a surprise. but i made it fit champ. zip ties and foam shit.



now its dark. mosquito, etc.

i did whip up the wire real quick. and poked it into the car to verify it fits. and well shit. even after my measurements and all.... well it fits better than i expected. hell, probably better than the other one did.
also threw some fire to it. damn thing sounds like a vacuum cleaner firing off. so yeah, moves some air.

also, after some searching i might be able to fire this thing off with the ECU. see how that goes. would be nice.


 

[turbohf]

not sure how well that last one looks. but it took some finagling to get it that good. the intake coupler actually goes slightly into the fan motor recess. its close.

phone claims its 64* outside. with the motor at 200* it took 1min 24sec to drop it to 180*. say thats good?

[BoostedSchemes]

Looking good man keep posting updates until an oil fire turns you out.

[turbohf]

lol. will do... what is the flash point of Valvoline VR1 20w50 oil? 

[turbohf]

lol. will do... what is the flash point of Valvoline VR1 20w50 oil? 

quick search shows 478°F/248°C.... not sure that's good or bad? obviously its getting on my downpipe.

[brine04]

Fire insurance and the problem will work itself out

[BoostedSchemes]

While I was kidding, I did almost burn down my old turbo BMW with shit touching the downpipe and flaring up, so its a legit thing to take care of - even if you ducttape aluminum foil around the leak to route it to the ground like I do now.

[turbohf]

oh good, it rotated the picture for me...when it didnt need to...
anyway. stainless brake lines, with a plastic cover over the braid, which is a very nice touch. more so because i zip tie my brake lines to shit...    oh and a Speed Density harness from ECMLink, to replace my borrowed (probably stolen at this point) native GM MAF harness i have now.

why?

maybe i just like buying fancy shit i dont really need? 

the SD harness will wait for another day. a day closer to when im actually ready to do some tuning. there is a 4bar MAP and a GM IAT around here somewhere too for this.

and yes. i did order other parts. still on boat/plane/seaturtle from China, and waiting on retailer to contact me on other part...



PS:  yes, the Nova is just sitting in the garage looking all sexy with aluminum hunk sitting between the frame rails... nothing has happened. its not close to running, so polishing the turd that runs... 

[turbohf]

....$80 straight off the boat from China...

70mm (probably, i didnt check) billet throttle body. bolt on, even has shit on bottom for stock idle hardware. lets hope it all fits. really it should be fine. i know someone else that bought a couple, makes like 800whp and runs 8's. so ehh, probably work on my car too.
the "S90 70mm" throttle bodies run like $295 shipped, for comparison. and those dont heave steel throttle shafts, they are aluminum. not sure i like that idea...

oh, and yes, i did red locktite those throttle blade screws in. 

obviously i have more shit coming, not bolting that on some cast 80's hardware...

[Sedrostyle]

....$80 straight off the boat from China...

obviously i have more shit coming, not bolting that on some cast 80's hardware...

nice dude, thinking about getting my self a intake and throttle body setup. I wasn't going to go 70 mm tho. probably 66
But Im sure the boost would love 70?

[turbohf]

im sure you all seen this on facebook already, but now that photobucket is working...







of course its a JM Fabrication Race manifold. 1g head, 70mm throttle body flanged.


maybe ill get around to installing it some day...? until then, it looks sexy as hell sitting on my kitchen counter.

[turbohf]

oh yeah, update...

i installed this crap a month or 2 ago. 






my coils mounted. worked well...


looks like most the pics are a little low on light...ehh.  also cleaned some more crap off the fire wall.


how she currently sits. need to remake the upper charge pipe, and tune.


THEN SELL... yes. pretty sure its happening. just need to get off my lazy ass and finish some crap up, find a couple pieces, and polish her for some pics.


i dont drive it, mostly because its not really in "running condition" (it does run fine). but also i dont care much for her anymore. i want to cruise and do burnouts. and i think a G-Body Monte Carlo SS is more fitting for that...

[Random Hero]

and now i'm up to date.

[turbohf]

you must have been bored...or hoping it was sold lol.


i made a list of to-do's for this thing.... then worked on the nova 

[crxvtec91]

I thought you would have sold this by now

[turbohf]

I thought you would have sold this by now

not sold....YET... really i would have to post it for sale before it could sell. not always, but helps. while it will generally start and run, hell probably be mobile if i wanted. it really isnt running up to potential of selling it for anything close to what i would need for it. me posting/selling it for $3500 is a huge fuckin insult, and i would rather set fire to it in my driveway first.

i have even less desire to part it out than to do anything else. i will let it sit rotting in my driveway before i ever get around to that shit im sure either. also i have absolutely zero parts to put it back to remotely stock.... not true, i have a stock intercooler, and the EVO suspension. lol. again too much work.



so i worked on her yesterday/today some.

~i cut and welded on the upper charge pipe again. turned out pretty good. and of course i would run out of welding gas on about the last inch of welding, and an hour before the welding supply closed.
~i swapped the 'new' mystery map sensor (dont remember if it was a 3 or 4 bar map, didnt work well as either) with a new 3bar map. works MINT. like reads  -.01hg with key on.
~i hooked up the vacuum hose to the new map.... worked ran a shitton better like that

then i messed around with it some trying to get it to run/idle right. it fired off great. idled like 2700rpms. turned the idle screw all the way in and idled 1700ish. once it was warmed up it started to idle surge, aka piss me the F off... done.

PICS! because really, did you read my ramblings? lol.



rebuilt pipe

nasty T4/T67

and yes, PINE NEEDLES!... 

[turbohf]

FOR SALE!!!

[crxvtec91]

I knew it was only a matter of time. More money for the nova! How much are you asking?