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[hotrex]

ok i was under the assumption it was overheating in boost all the time. if the comp checks out ur fine.

when i had my issue 1 and 4 cyls were 175 and 2 and 3 were 145. 

water wetter works well.   do u have a slim fan?  if not id thorw a fal fan or some other type of high cfm slim and and wire it to run constantly

[Joseph Davis]

You are overheating because there is zero airflow across your radiator.  I'd ditch the oil cooler, or mount it in a lay-down capacity where it stops fucking up the radiator's mojo.

Putting your engine into time is all well and good, but next time on the dyno try to retard the cam a degree or two.  That pushes the cam's powerband upwards and boosted small port D16 really like that.

[confUsed]

I wish I didnt need the oil cooler, but without it, the oil got so hot that I started to loose pressure after some laps. Not sure how ther bearings like temps at ~280F+ either. I will look into moving it to another place and maybe add a fan or something to get airflow over it. Or find a way to mount it lay-down, if I figure out how to get airflow when mounting it like that :p

I have a slim fan, but I think its some china-garbage. I made a schroud for it, so hopefully its doing some use. I'm going to borrow a fal fan from a friend to test out if it makes a difference.

I figured I should do some logging before I start to buy stuff. Pull out the thermostat and log outside temp and coolant temp when cruising on a flat road. Then start with the easy and cheap/free mods like better ducting, water wetter etc. I've also made a ghetto water sprayer system out of a windshield washer reservoir/pump and a nozzle from an old spray can I want to try.

I actually retarded the cam two degrees a couple of days after I got home form the dyno. Feels like it doesnt die off as bad, and I had to add some fuel in the top to keep the AFR curve flat, so hopefully the powerband is a little better. I think the timing still needs lot of work, though. I think its way retarded. That might have something to do with the overheating too...(?)

[92CXyD]

You could run with a thermostat with 2 to 4 6mm holes drilled to flow some water alll the time. :yes:

Does it make a difference when you run the heater at the same time?

When I drive in the summer I use straight distilled water in my cooling system and with antifreeze in the fall and winter.

Could help to use some water wetters too. ;D

[HiProfile]

If you can keep your coolant temps down now, I'd put on a VX/GSR oil cooler on the thing. Track temps for oil can get past 240F, while coolant stays below 210F. Oil should definately stay in spec if you're passing all of it through a 200F cooler. If you really want, you can put an additional rad for that coolant line before the oil cooler. That would help with both coolant and oil temps.

[turbogeek]

My thoughts:
I made the fan shroud to let the fan draw air through all the surface of the radiator. However, in high speeds, the fan is doing nothing compared to all the air that is thrown in the face of the radiator, so is this shroud just doing things worse?
I dont have the stock bottom plate. Is this disturbing the air flow through the engine bay in some very bad way?
I use a Mishomoto radiator. Would buying a "name brand" radiator do anything other than hurting my pocket?
I tried shimming the hood, to let some of the hot air out, but it didnt make much of a defference, other than making a fucking sauna inside the cabin during a heat :p

Any help would be much appreciated!

I think the Intercooler-on-top-of-the-oil-cooler-on-top-of-the-radiator may be a little too restrictive.  In fact I was thinking that at the beginning of your post before you said you were having an overheat problem.

Try reconfiguring things (the oil cooler first,), and/or maybe a block off panel for the open space next to the radiator too.

[confUsed]

I removed the thermostat today and got a surprise... It was some sort of low temp thing with a fucking 25mm hole in it, the stock one I had laying around has a 32mm hole. So 40% less flow than stock... 

I did a some testing with no thermostat and managed to get the temps down 2-3 Celsius  with some ducting. Didnt get to do all the stuff I had planned, so hopefully I'll get another couple degrees tomorrow.

I'll give it a try, and if it doesnd work, I'll move the oil cooler and add a drop-vent in the hood behind the radiator.

Wished I thought about the gsr cooler before, but I cant stand working behind the block when the motor is in the car, and I dont have time to pull it now. It sounded like a really clean setup. Might have to look into that next time I rebuild the motor, which might be soon (never know)...

[Joseph Davis]

Or find a way to mount it lay-down, if I figure out how to get airflow when mounting it like that :p

Racecars and some OEMs have done that over the years.  It's really not a problem since a lot of air passes underneath the car, but some people have to see it done before it clicks in their head and they get the idea. 

[schim187]

just like jd said, it looks like there's not a whole lot of air making it to the radiator...even those hoses being rerouted might make a little difference....your fan is pulling towards the engine, not pushing air throught the front, right?  If it were pushing and you were driving fast, the air would remain virtually static within the radiator.

Excellent build and thread

[confUsed]

Or find a way to mount it lay-down, if I figure out how to get airflow when mounting it like that :p

Racecars and some OEMs have done that over the years.  It's really not a problem since a lot of air passes underneath the car, but some people have to see it done before it clicks in their head and they get the idea. 

Is that some kind of racers secret or something? I've been googling for an hour now and cant find shit.

Anyway, I put the stock splash shield back on and the temps suddenly dropped by 5 degrees Celsius rock steady when cruising @60 mph. Seems like it does quite a bit for airflow under the hood. I've also zip tied the hoses more out of the way and used half a roll with duct tape to direct the airflow a bit more. Going to the track on thursday so I'll have to wait till then to get the answer if its enough.

The fan pulls. Wired it wrong once, and the car overheated when just driving normally   

[Joseph Davis]

Funny, google pulled this right up.

[schim187]

They don't have google in Norway JD 

[confUsed]

Lol, I still cant find shit. Thanks JD. I have some ideas if its nescessary to move it noe. Think its possible to squeeze it in behind the passenger side front light too, and just remove the light at the track.

[onlyflash944]

mfactory, nice.  love to hear more about it

my obx is holding up just fine as of yet