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[HiProfile]

I've come to the point where I can make a thread.

Plan: toss an F22 onto an LS tranny, put into a daily-driver Integra. Do it again with a JDM H23A dohc vtec (aka "bluetop") in the spring, then try it on my (currently) turbocharged Civic. Except with an 11:1cr F22/H22 hybrid with K20A pistons (JDM ITR). Then see if a turbo fits, and swap the h22 head back onto the low-CR F22B2 block if it does. All w/o adapter plates, all with my special injectors.

So far I have an F22B1 from DasPoop, a beat-up F22A6 from some hispanic, and a dirty JDM H23A. The F22B1 is bolted to the LS trans and my test car (rusty 94 del sol vtec) just got the b16a3 yanked out today. By next week I hope to have the engine in to finalize the orientation of the engine/tranny. Then I can fab up the half-shaft bracket, the top engine/trans bracket, front engine/trans bracket, and the slave cyl extension bracket.



No good pictures til tuesday. I was too busy moving shit around and pulling the b16 today, sorry.

[crxvtec91]

Well played!

While you fab up the brackets make 2, one for you and one for me. No im not kidding, and no I dont care how they look, and yes I have cash lol 

[PhilStubbs]

In for the results. I am right in the middle of putting an F23 into a crx with H22 tranny

[HiProfile]

Actually I was going to make two, one for each car. Making a third shouldn't be that hard. I have bolts to spare since I get grade 8's through work. The only oddball tool you have to buy is a 5/8"-11 thread tap, which I got for $10 on ebay. Then remove the bolt hole ear off the rear of the block, drill a 1/2" hole, and clearance the crank 1mm so the b-series pilot bearing can fit.

I really want this to work since modding the chassis is what I hate doing. I want something that I can swap from chassis to chassis if I have to, or replicate for someone else relatively easy. Mainly since my teg is a POS in the looks department.

[crxvtec91]

Actually I was going to make two, one for each car. Making a third shouldn't be that hard. I have bolts to spare since I get grade 8's through work. The only oddball tool you have to buy is a 5/8"-11 thread tap, which I got for $10 on ebay. Then remove the bolt hole ear off the rear of the block, drill a 1/2" hole, and clearance the crank 1mm so the b-series pilot bearing can fit.

I really want this to work since modding the chassis is what I hate doing. I want something that I can swap from chassis to chassis if I have to, or replicate for someone else relatively easy. Mainly since my teg is a POS in the looks department.

Sounds good to me, keep me posted or ill text harass you

[HiProfile]

I'll be stuffing the F2B into the del sol tomorrow, so I'll take some pictures then. Supposed to be nice out, for WI anyways, 43F and sunny.

This will be mainly for getting the motor angle set. I was waiting for the grade-8 bolts,  since I'll only have two 1/2" bolts holding the tranny on for now. It will be 11 bolts total in the end, grade 8 sae (1/2", 5/8") and 10.8 metric (12mm, 14mm).

[crxvtec91]

I'll be stuffing the F2B into the del sol tomorrow, so I'll take some pictures then. Supposed to be nice out, for WI anyways, 43F and sunny.

This will be mainly for getting the motor angle set. I was waiting for the grade-8 bolts,  since I'll only have two 1/2" bolts holding the tranny on for now. It will be 11 bolts total in the end, grade 8 sae (1/2", 5/8") and 10.8 metric (12mm, 14mm).

Tri state people run 3 by drolling one or 2 holes bigger to make the bolt fit the hole.

[HiProfile]

Got some work done today.

Hood closes perfectly with the f22 P/S bracket removed.



This swap will go into my Integra, but it's a DD so I'm going to test it in the junker del sol. Now that it's in, I can make some brackets & finish the wiring. I plan do use the H23A's fuel rail on this, flipped left to right. The F22B1 has a funky fuel rail (bolts are above the injectors instead of below), but I'll make the JDM piece work. The fuel inlet is on the drivers side, flipping it puts the inlet right where I want for the Civic.


The alternator fits (took it off to get the alt bracket off). The crank pulley's alt belt teeth DO clear the frame, but only by a few MM's. No P/S unless you make your own brackets. I might try a 4-rib alt-p/s-a/c serpentine-like arrangement at some point, but the teg rack is easy enough to loop and my Civic rack is already looped.




The BEST part - it uses all STOCK MOUNTS. B-series passenger mount & t-bracket, accord driver mount. The accord mount tube (which the bolt goes through) was shortened on the front by about 2mm to fit into the chassis slot. I bolted up the accord mount, then had to pry the tranny mount's tube towards the motor a few MM's to line up.

Driver's Mount with dip stick bent over to clear:


T-bracket - needs to be cut & rewelded, thankfully the F/H block's "ear" is thinner to I'll just weld plates w/holes:



Alignment of block to tranny. The B-series angles forwards, while the F/H-series angle backwards. The engine is almost sitting at the stock angle, offering much better clearance and header alignment than an EVO or QSD kit.







This is the bracket I plan to make, except with angle iron and machined tubes/spacers below the engine block's bolts. I'll also have one more bracket below the slave cylinder that uses the original block & tranny's 12mm bolt holes. I'll also be making an angled bracket to space out the slave cylinder similar to how QSD does with a slotted aluminum bracket. NOT MY PICTURE/ENGINE:




The IACV and TPS are very close to the firewall, and I'll have to relocate the fuel filter. I think a d-series chassis Civic's filter will clear better since it's angled and closer to the passenger side.




Mods needed on the block & trans: cut off the lower rear bolt-hole ear on the F22 block, sand down a ridge right below the slave mount holes, grind the front hole I drill in the block flat for a nut/lock washer, and thread the tranny's upper 2 bolt holes with a 5/8"-11 tap for grade-8 SAE bolts.



Decided to take pics of my extra stuff.

JDM H23A dohc vtec:




$5 bolt that saved me $300+ (just left of the water pump gear):




STOCK B16A3 & trans:




Beat-up F22A6, hope to use for the 86mm 11:1cr H22/F22 build:




JDM H22A head & manifold for the above 11:1cr H22/F22 build:

[ratcityrex]

Solid work!

[HiProfile]

One thing I forgot, the engine sits slightly crooked. The driver's side is about 10mm lower at the mount bolt than needed to be completely level. I might just hog out the frame's holes since I'm anal about that shit. It will also put the driver's axle that much higher, which will put it closer inline with the halfshaft. It will also eliminate the need to pry the mount tubes inwards, since it will make the mount spacing wider too.

[HiProfile]

I made 8 spacer tubes for the tranny plate figuring I'd use 4 per swap. Now it looks like I only need 2 per swap, so...

I have tons of extra bolts and steel, so I should be able to make a couple of these if I needed to.

[PhilStubbs]

I like the adaptor plate/scatter shield combo idea. I wonder if I can trade this H22 tranny for a N16 tranny. Lol

[HiProfile]

Scott, you'll love this link:

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2888176

[DSMR]

Good work.

When I put a F22 in an EK I used ebay h22 swap mounts and was able to keep PS, AC, and the alternator cleared without modification (barely).

Once I get some cash together the car will receive an A series head with A6 valvetrain. Then we are going to bolt up a dsm turbo to it and get busy.

[PhilStubbs]

That's funny. Too bad I have already finished the h22 tranny mount, mounted the shifter and run the cables.

[HiProfile]

When I put a F22 in an EK I used ebay h22 swap mounts and was able to keep PS, AC, and the alternator cleared without modification (barely).

Straight H22 swap I presume? The only way PS will work is if the Integra it will go into has the frame rail further from the engine. I know you get more hood clearance with Integras and EK's, but I'll probably be using custom brackets to keep my A/C w/o doing custom lines.

[PhilStubbs]

Did you get my PM about injectors?

[turbohf]

ummm, what up with hella flush in the background of the first pic?



solid work. keep it up.

[PhilStubbs]

The old game of "Broken or Hellaflush". I pretty much always answer broken. That's my answer in this case too.

[DSMR]

When I put a F22 in an EK I used ebay h22 swap mounts and was able to keep PS, AC, and the alternator cleared without modification (barely).

Straight H22 swap I presume? The only way PS will work is if the Integra it will go into has the frame rail further from the engine. I know you get more hood clearance with Integras and EK's, but I'll probably be using custom brackets to keep my A/C w/o doing custom lines.

I put a F22B2 engine and tranny in the car. I used the cheap ebay mounts and drilled a hole for the drivers side mount. Used integra DA axles that I need to customize. Not sure about hood clearances for the integra but I can show you some pics if it would help you. Solid work btw.

[HiProfile]

Sorry Scott, just reading it now.

I'm lovin the current F2B, I haven't modded the chassis so far and the exhaust just needs an extra 5" to be dead on. Axles are stock B's. I prefer cutting & welding brackets to cutting & welding the chassis.

ummm, what up with hella flush in the background of the first pic?

Lol, the local word is "stanced". However it's the camera angle/lens, I assure you that has 3* camber max. The car only has eibach sportlines with zero camber correction atm. I do like how Civic/Tegs handle with a few degrees in the front and almost zero in the rear.

[HiProfile]

Hoping someone can help me with mount measurements:

http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,22243.0.html

[PhilStubbs]

I responded.

[HiProfile]

O K

[highroller54]

reported for lack of new boobs.

[HiProfile]

reported for lack of new boobs.

Nigger

[crxvtec91]

DO WORK!

[Phate]

trying to talk my buddy into doing this to his EJ.

[HiProfile]

Weather was nice, so I did some more stuff.


I enlarged the rear starter hole to 1/2" to use a 1/2"x6" grade-8 bolt to lock the block to the tranny. If not, it only fits a 3/8" bolt. The 1/2" bolt doubles the clamping load. It fits snug, so it acts like a giant alignment dowel to help hook it to the block.


This also shows the 5/8" grade-8 bolts (and the taper tap, bottom right) I tapped threads for in the upper tranny holes. A normal 12mm bolt shows the difference in diameter.



I used an extension with a step drill to enlarge the starter hole, otherwise you'd need to use a special 3- or 4-flute core drill bit (casting hole reamer), $20 on ebay.





Here's the location of the front hole you drill.





The other side of the hole, where I ground it flat with a dremel and a cylindrical cutting bit.





Another pic of it bolted back together with the 2 big 5/8" bolts. I'll have an angle iron bracket that ties together the 2 block bolts and the 2 tranny bolts.





Here's the "nub" on the F/H blocks that sticks into the tranny, file/grind/saw it off. It's between the 2 big bolts, slightly below.





Next step is to yank it all out and make the upper tranny/block bracket, front bracket, and halfshaft bracket. Then I'll make a IACV relocator block, cut off the rear block hole for halfshaft clearance, and make the slave cylinder bracket. I have an extra D15 engine harness I'll also extend, then make a temp bracket to hold the del sol's PS pump.

[PhilStubbs]

Just for shits and giggles, you might want to try an accord intermediate shaft. The splines are the same as B. then you can just run B axles the rest of the way.