Topic: My CRX shitbox that should be scrapped build (Read 62336 times)

Gold DA9 · « **Reply #120 on:** March 23, 2016, 02:01:40 AM »

oh damn...

Tim · « **Reply #121 on:** April 03, 2017, 03:23:22 PM »

after being a garage shelf for two years I've been tinkering on this pos

Fancy new gears that I scored for basically what I sold my old ones for.

Drilled and glued in a magnet. Only needed one, but did both for whatever reason.

Welded a little bracket to mount the sensor, just need to drill and tap for the sensor itself.

LS coils that will complete the package for coil near plug.
These came free on an engine that was given to me (supposedly seized but isn't, haven't investigated)

Mounted a gm ect sensor in my heater tube plug, and pressure sensor in place of factory ect.

took off all the knuckle busting brackets on the firewall, as well as brake lines for a ghetto tuck. the brake lines and prop valve were all fucked up and hit the charge piping anyway.
Couldn't stand trying to work on this thing with no room anywhere so i'm 'shaving' it. not for looks, probably won't even get painted.

Also deleted the brake booster since it just about hit the intake mani. tons of room, unsure of stopping power, will cross that bridge later.

Still no room for a catch can, have an idea to mount it behind the firewall.
New traction bar makes the rad fit even less. either have to do a major lean or find some other rad that will fit. car was always running pretty warm before so I want to do something good here.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #122 on:** April 04, 2017, 09:10:14 AM »

Why did it sit for 2 years?

Tim · « **Reply #123 on:** April 04, 2017, 09:30:37 AM »

I spun a bearing, took some time away from the garage.

DSharp · « **Reply #124 on:** April 04, 2017, 07:20:44 PM »

did you reuse the pistons?

Tim · « **Reply #125 on:** April 04, 2017, 08:20:43 PM »

not yet but plan to, just finding homes for everything right now with a bare block.

Tim · « **Reply #126 on:** April 10, 2017, 09:56:32 AM »

Can't find a good place to mount the catch can, so I decided to build one and mount it behind the firewall.

Valve cover ports and filters tucked into the corner next to the fuel filter.

plan to put a baffle in the tank so the engine ports will be in the front chamber, then the filters will connect to the back chamber.
going to run two more ports that shoot off to the left and poke out the firewall at the back of the block for drain back.

Ordered an ebay radiator for an Austin Rover Mini because the civic half rad is too tall to fit with the traction bar without hitting the mani and up pipe.
Figured this will give me a little room to fit it nicely, hopefully it will handle the job.
Need to weld proper size hose nipples on, might flip direction to keep the rad cap away from the mani as well.

Tim · « **Reply #127 on:** April 14, 2017, 10:19:11 AM »

more pie cuts

poke em through the firewall

scraps of steel to random studs on the firewall. not much of a slope but there is something.

Baffle installed and warped to shit

a finishing touch of artwork

Welds look like shit, who cares

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #128 on:** April 20, 2017, 03:21:09 PM »

Solid work!

Tim · « **Reply #129 on:** May 09, 2017, 12:39:07 PM »

Not much to show. Between work, kids baseball/soccer, always seem to be busy.

Finally added a brace to the battery so it isn't flapping around

This rad is tiny so I splurged on a SPAL fan to try and keep this shitbox cool.
Also had the stock ports welded shut and added 1-1/4" ports to it.

Fits real well now.
Can also see I welded a scrap to extend the up pipe.
I'll trim it down better once i get the hood on.
half of it didn't reach through the hood before, and i rotated it. Figure most of it would be blowing under the hood and in the bay if i left it as is.

Eggylshatch · « **Reply #130 on:** May 09, 2017, 01:07:10 PM »

Hell yeah dude. I love the fatty up pipe.

Tim · « **Reply #131 on:** May 10, 2017, 10:41:01 AM »

had a little more motivation last night, mounted the coils to the trans.

Just about wraps up all the ghetto fab. just need to rebuild this engine and wire everything.

ohisofly · « **Reply #132 on:** May 16, 2017, 10:48:08 PM »

Loving the catch can, definitely frees up some space considering how small these bays are. Looks like that radiator fits perfect after flipping it and moving the ports. Do you have a time or power goal in mind?

Tim · « **Reply #133 on:** May 17, 2017, 10:01:55 AM »

goal is to break into the 9's and still drive it on the street and be a dick.
It went 10.5 first build without having it turned up so it shouldn't be a problem as long as I can make it halfway reliable.

The rad fits real nice, but the aluminum is pretty soft.
I wouldn't be surprised if it vibrates itself to death and I have to remake it with a higher quality core.

I was going to throw brake lines in it which turned into mounting the staging brake which turned into seeing if i can cut the dash and console around the cage.
going to be a tight fit, but my plan is to make it look like it has most of the interior in it.

ohisofly · « **Reply #134 on:** May 18, 2017, 12:09:11 AM »

Yea looks like that should be easy, eager to see some vids once it's done

ratcityrex · « **Reply #135 on:** May 18, 2017, 01:55:30 AM »

Did you make the rad? I know speedfactory is selling there own drag rad which looks just like that.

Tim · « **Reply #136 on:** May 18, 2017, 09:20:16 AM »

its an ebay rad for an Austin Mini that I cut the stock 3/4" ports off and welded on new 1-1/4" ports.
I think it was less than $60 to my door, the speedfactory stuff is too baller for me.
Although I did see one for sale used the week after I had this done, it was still expensive.

Ntrain2k · « **Reply #137 on:** May 18, 2017, 07:35:47 PM »

Quote from: Tim on May 18, 2017, 09:20:16 AM

its an ebay rad for an Austin Mini that I cut the stock 3/4" ports off and welded on new 1-1/4" ports.
I think it was less than $60 to my door, the speedfactory stuff is too baller for me.
Although I did see one for sale used the week after I had this done, it was still expensive.

My nigga!

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #138 on:** June 02, 2017, 03:02:49 PM »

How much power did it make before?

Tim · « **Reply #139 on:** June 05, 2017, 03:51:03 PM »

557

not a lot of progress to show.
I took a couple pictures but didn't load them.

built a 13.5:1 B20vtec for a local dirt track guy that's going to try and sneak it past tech.
Was a setback but got me motivated to dig into my engine.

Got everything stripped out of the bay and torn apart in about an hour, big improvement over the original cluster fuck, no longer hate to try and work on it.
Just need a ghetto simple cheap way to clean out all of the old bearing shit from the block head and oil pickup and I can assemble this shit.
thinking pressure washer in the driveway with a brake clean bath followup

Tim · « **Reply #140 on:** June 05, 2017, 04:00:49 PM »

to clarify, it made 557 on 24 psi
we backed it down to 16 psi to get the car sorted and get some passes in before I turned it back up.
it spun a bearing before I ever turned it back up

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #141 on:** June 26, 2017, 11:50:28 AM »

I feel the pain, had my crx out last year for a week. Was getting ready to hit an event, was doing some street pulls, ran and beat a newer Z06 but ate a piston.....

Hopefully soon!

Tim · « **Reply #142 on:** July 04, 2017, 10:46:46 AM »

Cleaned my area and got my block on the stand
now just to decide on trusting plasti-gauge or fucking around with the micrometers and dial bore gauge until i say fuck it and trust the plasti-gauge.

crxvtec91 · « **Reply #143 on:** July 06, 2017, 03:15:55 PM »

Last few motors I stretch the rod bolt and realized 90% of the time, torquing the bolt will not come even close to what the stretch should be. I think this is the main reason for spun rods..........

Tim · « **Reply #144 on:** July 06, 2017, 04:41:19 PM »

I usually use a stretch gauge and i find it pretty close to torque, depends on how you lube it and where you lube it though that's for sure. the only engine i spun a rod in all the engines i've built for people was this one, but it also had a bunch of shit wrong.
Cams were fucked, rockers were fucked, retainers were beat by the vtec rockers, #2 wrist pin was seized in the piston and rod, #2 bearing spun. I'm ASSuming i spun #2 and oil starvation caused the rest but who knows.

Its the comparing the dial bore gauge to the mics that drives me nuts. you can get such wildly different readings based on how you hold it or how far you tighten the mics etc. I just keep redoing and being frustrated until i say fuck it and throw it together.

threw together a buddies piston/rod srt4 engine, then had another guy with a mystery oil leak i couldn't pinpoint last night until giving up at 2am. I keep saying i'll work on my shit in the tiny bit of time i don't have, but then never do.

Eggylshatch · « **Reply #145 on:** July 06, 2017, 07:14:21 PM »

Quote from: Tim on July 06, 2017, 04:41:19 PM

I usually use a stretch gauge and i find it pretty close to torque, depends on how you lube it and where you lube it though that's for sure. the only engine i spun a rod in all the engines i've built for people was this one, but it also had a bunch of shit wrong.
Cams were fucked, rockers were fucked, retainers were beat by the vtec rockers, #2 wrist pin was seized in the piston and rod, #2 bearing spun. I'm ASSuming i spun #2 and oil starvation caused the rest but who knows.

Its the comparing the dial bore gauge to the mics that drives me nuts. you can get such wildly different readings based on how you hold it or how far you tighten the mics etc. I just keep redoing and being frustrated until i say fuck it and throw it together.

I haven't taken apart the bottom end of an engine yet, but and it's shit like what you describe that makes me not trust myself with it. I just know that it would take me a ton of time to try to do it right, and would probably still fuck it up. But my time is so tight lately that I'd probably say fuck it too easily and just end up driving a ticking time bomb around.

Tim · « **Reply #146 on:** July 06, 2017, 07:41:50 PM »

Quote from: Eggylshatch on July 06, 2017, 07:14:21 PM

I haven't taken apart the bottom end of an engine yet, but and it's shit like what you describe that makes me not trust myself with it. I just know that it would take me a ton of time to try to do it right, and would probably still fuck it up. But my time is so tight lately that I'd probably say fuck it too easily and just end up driving a ticking time bomb around.

That's doing it the 'right' way with mics and dial bore gauge and I just don't have the practice for it to feel natural and not second guess myself. i've only done that on one engine, i usually just use plasti-gauge.

Tim · « **Reply #147 on:** July 08, 2017, 12:01:47 PM »

think I'm getting the hang of the mics and bore gauge.
Crank measured very consistent, but my block is another story.
one literally measured 0.0000, and the loosest one was 0.0010.
I got a set of X bearings on the way, but that's still not going to get me to 0.0025 that I'm told I need to be at.

Anyone had any luck taking the back of a bearing down with a scotch brite pad? seems sketchy as fuck to me, but might give it a shot haha

ohisofly · « **Reply #148 on:** July 10, 2017, 09:23:57 PM »

Have you considered using oem bearings with different sizes for each journal?

Tim · « **Reply #149 on:** July 11, 2017, 02:37:46 AM »

I had not, but looking at them now that could have worked

I talked to the machine shop and they said they will fix it. Shouldn't cost too much and I'm out of town again anyway

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Author Topic: My CRX shitbox that should be scrapped build (Read 62336 times)