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Author Topic: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop  (Read 20812 times)

92CXyD

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #210 on: July 29, 2020, 10:56:50 am »

Hell ya!!

ratcityrex

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #211 on: July 31, 2020, 04:33:04 pm »

Oh yes! I'm excited to see this thing ripping!
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New setup is old bottom end with a hype r head with gsr cams. built lsv with hx35 @ 26psi on pump gas
LEED tuned! 434hp/329tq http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pbDXZxZdZs
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,16195.0.html

Old Setup B18a1 296hp/289tq LEED Tuned 20psi on pump! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Yj-Z90j4W4 nbspnbsp
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,205.msg2437.html#msg2437

fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #212 on: August 19, 2020, 09:44:16 pm »

It started today!  Still alot more to do before driving and tuning but its closer! My buddy pointed out my messed up trigger settings,  one screenshot and it fired up!

https://youtu.be/Ga_YlBGshww
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fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #213 on: August 23, 2020, 06:33:13 pm »

the hard part of the exhaust is done, not sure how its gonna exit the bed yet. factory fuel pump wiring burned up in less than an hour trying to power a dw400 pump. sorted all the wiring under the passenger seat. as far as i can tell everything works like it should. ill have parts from summit tuesday to fix the pump wiring.








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fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #214 on: August 24, 2020, 11:51:11 pm »

fixed the fuel pump wiring with an awesome pass-through from summit racing. should be no further problems now that its 14ga straight to the pump


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Tim

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #215 on: August 25, 2020, 10:15:22 am »

looks way better than my gobs of RTV smeared around a hole with wires pulled through, almost tempted to replace mine.

So who's closer you or your boss?
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fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #216 on: August 25, 2020, 11:28:54 am »

I am lol,  i can drive around the parking lot in mine,  his still doesn't run,  he's got too many other projects going on
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92CXyD

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #217 on: August 26, 2020, 11:19:58 am »

I use the same type of pass thru in my latest twincharge build except I use 2, 1 for each 12 wire to a 450lph pump on modified stock hanger.  :noel:

fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #218 on: August 30, 2020, 10:43:00 am »

replaced the straight pipe with a 30" glass pack. decided on a simple turnout/down rather the an overly complicated over the frame rail design i was thinking about. also got my coolant reservoir from amazon. made a bracket and have been trying to figure out where is gonna be mounted.








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ratcityrex

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #219 on: September 01, 2020, 10:54:39 pm »

Sexy!
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New setup is old bottom end with a hype r head with gsr cams. built lsv with hx35 @ 26psi on pump gas
LEED tuned! 434hp/329tq http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pbDXZxZdZs
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,16195.0.html

Old Setup B18a1 296hp/289tq LEED Tuned 20psi on pump! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Yj-Z90j4W4 nbspnbsp
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,205.msg2437.html#msg2437

Random Hero

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #220 on: September 12, 2020, 10:20:29 pm »

 O0

fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #221 on: September 13, 2020, 10:26:39 am »

took it out for a short drive with my tuner. base map is dialed and very smooth. waiting on a roll cage, seat belts, and an alignment before doing any wot pulls.  the coolant temp would climb while moving probably due to lack of radiator ducting and the cheap ass fan i put in.

cheap fan replaced with a 12" 1300cfm Spal. and despite it being 10* warmer out the coolant  was 10* cooler when cruising around 45mph. Probably going to completely seal it with some sort of tape in the future to make 100% of the air pass through the radiator.






 got my ebrake sorted with a mis match of stock explorer parts, escort parts, and a homemade plate. its still a bit weak due to the hand brake having way less cable travel than the factory foot brake. ill be working on  a bigger radius wheel to go in the hand brake in the future.




installed my mid 80s 300zx turbo marker lights installed. its weird how most Japanese marker lights have the same foot print. even weirder that my local napa actually had the right clips and screws to install them.




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fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #222 on: September 13, 2020, 10:42:24 am »

drive video and walk around are on vladituned's instagram
https://www.instagram.com/vladituned/?utm_source=ig_embed
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Ntrain2k

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #223 on: September 16, 2020, 06:24:42 am »

Yes!
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fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #224 on: September 17, 2020, 11:48:22 am »

In hopes of keeping my fillings in my teeth I bought a 1.75" 40A durometer rod to make new motor mounts.  I'm currently using 95A leaf spring bushings and they vibrate alot. I cut the ends off the poly to keep a soldish stop to keep the engine from walking forward or back. it was way easier to put the poly rod into the mount, cut it flush then drill it than trying to hold onto it.





perfectly timed text message for the awesome sound effect
https://youtu.be/c4Q0SuEiAWo
« Last Edit: September 17, 2020, 11:53:34 am by fastivab6tg25mr »
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fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #225 on: October 10, 2020, 07:37:08 pm »

ive been getting quite a bit done, just haven't been posting.

cleaned up and painted my escort zx2 center console.






fatmat rattle trap has been installed everywhere and its still hella loud



my K&N ripped off my turbo so i had to make a front end support





painted the front end behind the grill and installed the grill. i have a mazda b1600 grill on the way so it will be converted to 4x 5 3/4 headlights to replace the 2 7" ones



been cutting and bending the instrument cluster hole to fit the tablet better




wrapped the exhaust to keep the floor temp down




painted the valve cover




added air flow flaps for the radiator fan housing, they open while driving and seal closed when the fan kicks on




finally added the temporary seat belts until the cage gets installed and i can mount proper harnesses



i had to cut a bunch more teeth off of my abs sensor ring cause it was maxing out my VR conditioner at 40mph. started at 108 teeth down to 54 teeth, now its at 9 teeth.
before

after








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ratcityrex

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #226 on: October 18, 2020, 03:34:59 pm »

so freaking sick!
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New setup is old bottom end with a hype r head with gsr cams. built lsv with hx35 @ 26psi on pump gas
LEED tuned! 434hp/329tq http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pbDXZxZdZs
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,16195.0.html

Old Setup B18a1 296hp/289tq LEED Tuned 20psi on pump! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Yj-Z90j4W4 nbspnbsp
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,205.msg2437.html#msg2437

fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #227 on: October 18, 2020, 11:49:46 pm »

more updates:
3.73 gears replaced with ford racing 3.31s all new bearings and seals. i think i pin pointed the loud howl from the rear end, carrier bearing races are toast. i did luck out so much when the factory shims lined up the ring and pinion perfectly. its a fun cruiser so far, the 3.31s dropped my freeway rpms to 2600@70mph and 2nd gear hits 7k rev limit @65mph





Wide open throttle tune got done friday night so its been fun learning how to drive a semi quick rwd vehicle im having issues with my innovate LC-1 and my tuner told me to "throw it in the trash where it belongs). my aem uego will be here tuesday. Until then i only get single digit spark advance until he can trust my AFR readings are correct.

now that the wastegate is opening i had a need to finish the dump




not truck related but i bought an overpowered lever action nerf gun off a guy on etsy and me and my roommate were seeing how bad it hurts. it stings a bit from 20ish feet



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fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #228 on: October 19, 2020, 09:03:32 pm »

This happened on my way to work this morning,  words can't describe how so fucking angry I am that people can't drive

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Ntrain2k

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #229 on: October 20, 2020, 06:55:19 am »

DAMNIT
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ratcityrex

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #230 on: October 22, 2020, 11:37:06 am »

Fuck! I was waiting for the pictures to load and all I could think was "please don't be totaled" that sucks ass but it looks fixable at least.
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New setup is old bottom end with a hype r head with gsr cams. built lsv with hx35 @ 26psi on pump gas
LEED tuned! 434hp/329tq http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pbDXZxZdZs
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,16195.0.html

Old Setup B18a1 296hp/289tq LEED Tuned 20psi on pump! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Yj-Z90j4W4 nbspnbsp
http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php/topic,205.msg2437.html#msg2437

92CXyD

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #231 on: October 26, 2020, 11:21:41 am »

Damn, and that fender is probably hard to find too.  :'(

fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #232 on: August 12, 2021, 11:39:26 am »

almost a year of updates:

too many pops and bangs blew my muffler off

2003 Mercedes ML500 is my tow vehicle lol got the truck home on a 10 1/2 hour round trip to pick up the parts truck


new flow master muffler installed



I think i have finally found a clutch solution. after being denied by at least 4 "custom" clutch/flywheel manufactures that its not some thing they could or would do i had given up and came to the realization that i was gonna have to make my own flywheel. so i started looking at different 2 disc setups to see what would work best and be easiest for my limited machining skills. i came across a quartermaster 7.25" dual disc for an RX7 turbo that is rated at a ridiculous 1000ftlbs of torque. i found it on website called Mazdatrix that specializes in performance RX-7s and RX-8s and has custom flywheels listed so i gave them a call. i talked to a guy names Dave that was very knowledgeable about the clutches and flywheels they have listed and referred me to the guy that designed and makes their flywheels at Aasco Motorsports in southern California. After about 20 mins on the phone he had enough info to say that he could definitely make the flywheel i needed. The downside is that its gonna take a month or two to make but its only cost me $700-$800 for a one off flywheel built to the exact specs so i wont need a flywheel spacer, made out of steel, and have the recess and holes drilled to accept 7.25" inserts to avoid ever having to machine the flywheel when i replace the clutch in the future. im trying not to get too excited before i have the parts in front of me but its looking very promising. Not thrilled at shelling out almost another $2000 for a clutch and flywheel but considering its a one off custom application that will hold more torque than ill ever come close to making im happy.
 
Making more progress. unfortunately the truck will be down for a month or so until the new flywheel is built and returned with the dual disc rx7 rally clutch. while its down I have some work to do. I pulled the fenders and started with rust treatment on the cab, I changed the HVAC intake from engine bay to the fender, I'm still working on making a cabin filter that goes in the fender to keep crap from blowing in my eyes with the a/c on.




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finally got my clutch!!!!!!! it arrived yesterday, got the tranny back in today, gonna finish it up and get it running in the morning so i can see how god awful its gonna be to drive this thing. nothing like a $150 engine sporting an almost $2000 clutch

I can't thank Vince at Aasco Motorsports enough for all the time and effort that went into designing and machining this beautiful piece of awesomeness.





Reworked my brake and clutch pedals for a little bit higher leverage ratio. clutch now feels great with no more stalling on take off. brake pedal got about 2" longer and I had to massage the wheel well for clearance of the longer clutch pedal.




I also found a fix for a problem no one else seems to have. I'm not a fan of AN fittings cause they require harder to find materials and tools to make the lines and don't looks as clean to me as nicely bent steel lines. The problem I ran into was that the clutchmasters FCV-2000 flow control valve only comes with a -3AN fittings. The threads in the valve itself are 3/8-24. I couldn't find anyplace that makes a 3/8-24 to a metric bubble flare m10-1.0 standard fitting that will match every other brake/clutch line in my truck. I was being told by everyone, including clutchmasters, that the only way was to get the -3AN to metric bubble flare adapter and use a -3AN to -3AN coupler making the valve twice as long and adding extra potential point for the system to leak. while on hold with a local hydraulics company to see if they had a solution I was playing with the valve and fittings and accidentally screwed the fitting in backwards. Turns out a -3AN has 3/8-24 threads. So I picked a pair of -3AN to bubble flare adapters, put them in the lathe at work, and cut them to the exact dimensions as the original fitting. I'm not sure that was even necessary but I have access to a lathe and it took a few mins each.





 
The race truck is getting a bigger radiator and fitted for A/C this weekend.

new bigger radiator is installed, a/c condenser is installed. I had to make some hose adapters cause the engine is 1.25" hoses and the upper on the radiator is 1.5" and the lower is 1.75"

size difference. new on left


condenser mounted with foam and fan mounts


i had to cut out the existing mounts and make new upper and lower mounts. there's a cross brace on the lower mount to protect the radiator



the pile of hoses and the adapters needed to make them fit





I had to build my own bump steer kit cause no one has one in stock and I didn't want to wait until mid July for one to get shipped to me. ball joint studs from speedway, 3/4 Heim joints from speedway, misalignment spacers from Ruff stuff 4x4 shop, grade 8 bolts from ace hardware. even after buying a tap it was still cheaper than a complete kit.





Picked up some Cobra wheels 17x9s 245/40/17s up front and 17x10.5s 275/40/17s in the back. The fronts fit perfectly after i took the sway bar out. it was hitting the oversized tie rod ends and needed to be reworked anyways, the rears may need some flares or something cause they stick out really far.






 
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fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #233 on: August 12, 2021, 11:43:53 am »

went to the track Wednesday to get some times but on the way to the track the release fork said no. I think its because I set my clutch pedal limiter stop too low and the clutch and slave are stronger than the arm. new one is ordered from Mazda, if it happens again I'm going hydraulic throw out bearing.





Yea, had to drop the trans, but its already replaced , I welded a plate to the back of the new one to strengthen it. Then went tuning on 28psi and E85 thanks to 18psi and after making all the power the rear freeze plugs on the left side ejected :( seems like the engine is unharmed but I have to wait til the sleeve retainer cures before I know for sure.

https://youtube.com/shorts/lnkxBjvTz18?feature=share

I was so sick of the vibration I finally cut out the poly engine and transmission mounts and replaced them with rear engine mounts. I chose 2005 Mercedes S600 mounts. I figured if they can hold the weight and torque of a twin turbo V12 they will do just fine in my truck. I manage a Mercedes repair shop so the cost on the parts is super cheap. 90% of the engine vibration is gone but its still louder than I was hoping for. I need to pull the windshield so i can have access to the back of the dash to finish sound proofing the firewall and finish the cluster bezel. I also need to get all the A/C lines made and get that all working, There are so many things that need to be finished still.











 
« Last Edit: August 12, 2021, 11:49:06 am by fastivab6tg25mr »
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fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #234 on: August 12, 2021, 12:01:42 pm »

Ive been fighting a weird overheat issue since day one and finally got to the bottom of it, #1 cylinder head gasket was really bad. and since i put my clt on the front of the engine i was reading boiling coolant from the blown head gasket. i replaced the head with a spare i had and relocated the clt sensor to the thermostat housing where it should have been in the first place. coolant temps are now 194*F on the freeway when its 105*F outside. i wrapped the turbo manifold after it burned up my alternator. i finished the bracket for the a/c lines to the expansion valve. hoping to have a/c in the next week or two










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92CXyD

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #235 on: August 12, 2021, 02:45:46 pm »

Loving this build, lots of detail, and work  :noel:

Ntrain2k

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #236 on: August 12, 2021, 07:53:28 pm »

Fuck yes. Missed this thing.
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rawr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #237 on: August 13, 2021, 09:55:07 pm »

truck is sick
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fastivab6tg25mr

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Re: making my 73 ford courier go fast, turn, and stop
« Reply #238 on: August 15, 2021, 07:32:13 pm »

Air conditioning is in and working!!!! I'm still messing with how much to charge it with. I think I can get it to or below 40*F at the center vents with some tweaking. I was running out of time and it was over 100*F in the shop so I was ok with only 50*F at the center vent.  I was also made aware that since the head gasket was replaced 28psi has  maxed out my 1000cc injectors on E85. Time for more expensive upgrades :(
 







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